Boudicca908

25% -- and it hasn't moved a bit, and no water coming out. I'll try adding to it, and let you know what happens. Okay, I added water to the tank to 31% AND I lifted front of the trailer a bit more, and it worked. THANKS!

I feel that rinsing and gently wiping with clear water before I begin helps a lot to get the grit off before I rub it with anything (sponge, rag or brush). What are you using to apply, and to buff the wax?

On the OTT winterization video, they say "Concentrated Non-Toxic RV antifreeze" and "do not dilute". Maybe I'm misinterpreting what they are saying? EDIT: here is the video for Elite 2 Winterization... https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/article Unfortunately, Walmart is about 80 minutes away, like everything else. I called around. Even places that carry RV stuff locally say they can't obtain it at a decent price (they don't sell large enough quantities). @topgun2 I actually have Nature's Head composting toilet, so I can skip that part. And I'm guessing I won't have to worry about pumping antifreeze into the Black Tank Flush port either, since it isn't used. Any ideas on draining the Fresh Water tank? I've lifted the front of the Oliver some but not a great deal. Do I need to run a faucet to break a vacuum or something? I tried with the City Water on and the City Water off. Nothing -- not one drop -- comes out of that drain port. I think I see where the drain tube goes through the hull, right next to the valve, just inboard from the rear tires on curbside, correct?

Help! DRAINING THE FRESH WATER TANK? I've watched the videos, and I find learning to be fun -- but I opened the valve to drain the Fresh Water tank and nothing happens, even after several hours. What am I not doing here? Is there something else to it? I have never filled that tank; I always used City Water connection. But a service center put water in there. I want to drain it out, clean the tank and drain it again, then possibly winterize before I get back to OTT headquarters in October. WHAT "CONCENTRATE" VERSION OF NON-TOXIC RV ANTIFREEZE FOR WINTERIZATION? I'm in a very very remote location. No one has concentrated nontoxic antifreeze (even within an hour's drive), so Amazon. I notice a few different versions, and BOY are they expensive. I want to order the right thing. Can someone chime in for me? Notice that the second one doesn't say "concentrate" -- it's "ready to use" whereas the other one says "concentrate ... 3:1".

I ordered a decent marine paste wax; I'm waiting on the marine cleaner to wash again. I've been lucky during my volunteer stint with US Fish & Wildlife because the big boys have toys -- I use a wash bay and it's better than my normal situation. However, I'm not allowed on a ladder for the time being (post hip replacement) so... I feel the pain that is expressed by everyone here. I've used gentle methods of cleaning, to avoid taking off the finish, and I do it by hand. It's a labor of love, is it not?

Yes! I forgot to mention the tie downs - very useful.

So… I had a hail storm blow over me, while parked at my volunteer station here in the middle of ND. Thankfully, the hail was minuscule here at the hatchery (golf ball size, down the road.) I just realized this poll asks for input “if you have experienced hail damage”, and since I didn’t have damage, I haven’t answered any of the questions.

I bought a Sand Mat like this, after reading about it in another forum post: CGEAR Original Sand-Free Outdoor Rug Camping Mat - Water-Resistant & Anti-Fade Material - Military-Grade Construction - Reversible Design - Area Rug for Beach, RV, & Picnics - Includes Travel Bag https://a.co/d/6dzNKWn Mine was on sale, maybe from REI, and maybe half the price. It works well to filter out the sand and seems durable; it came with a bag that also is open mesh (which means I don’t store it in the trailer.)

Do you mind sharing what product you use? Also, what you use for washing?

I literally bought myself a 1/2" Allen wrench today, at a local hardware store. The fix on that is SO easy; I went through all my hose connection ports and every one of them needed to be snugged down. No leak now. Just remove the screened-gasket and you will see the hex-shaped backflow valve mentioned by @topgun2 above.

The kitchen drawer latch (not latching) is one of the issues I've encountered as well. The first time, I called OTT service and Mike walked me through the fix over the phone (how to remove the drawer from the hardware rails, how to check the latch and how to fix it -- THANKS MIKE!)... In my case, the latch was missing a screw and replacing that screw fixed the issue. But I find it tricky to get the drawers 'secured' back on the rails (making the rails snap into place on the drawers). In a month, I've had to fix latches on 3 drawers; each time they seem to be missing at least one screw that holds the latch securely in place (thanks @John E Davies for the latch photo provided above). Maybe they need to be using longer wood screws? Or glue and screw? My friend taught me her brother's "fix" for re-installing screws into small holes in wood when they basically won't take a bite: put wooden toothpicks and wood glue into the hole, let them set, cut the exposed ends off flush, and then screw back together. So far, so good. I've never had anything come out of my drawers, and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm going to have to visit the hardware for extra screws to finish securing these drawers.

I'm looking forward to weighing my rig for the first time -- thanks for all the info about this. I'm curious how I'm doing, after having a spreadsheet prior to hitting the road (and then having to buy tools and extra equipment, LOL).

I'm so very happy that I found the Oliver -- and that I was able to see one of each size, in person, before placing my order. I'm also glad that I took the time to read many posts on the forum about Tow Vehicles (TV) and systems and other questions posted by owners. The Forum is like family and you'll find sage advice throughout the forum site. In addition to the Oliver University mentioned above, there is a LOT of information that Oliver provides in their Service Departments portion of the website called Knowledge Base. I'm a new owner (picked up last Spring) and while I have decades of camping experience, this is my first recreational vehicle of any kind (boat, trailer, etc). I have a lot to learn, and I've been enjoying it all -- even when it's a challenge to learn so many things at once. Good luck and enjoy your visit to the factory!

Thanks for the reminder! I have at least one quick connect and a friend took it off, thinking he was going to solve my leak problem. I'll reinstall it now.

My City Water connection started leaking A LOT and my neighbor took a look and said I was missing the check valve -- but after reading the forum posts related to this subject, I learned that my check valve is moved inboard, and I was able to fix my City Water connection with borrowed hex key and plumber's tape. Now to buy my own hex key. Also -- I don't have fingernails long enough to grab that outer red rubber strainer, so I used a sewing needle to gently pull it out. I plan to buy spare strainers and O-rings that go on the other side, especially since there are 3 of these connections (City Water, Fresh Water and the Boon Docking inlet) -- can anyone tell me what size the O-ring is? I'm not sure how it's measured. Thanks for all the help, Forum family!

John, congrats on the sale and I wish you the best in your new adventures. I've certainly appreciated your many informed posts, and I'm just getting started with using and understanding my Oliver and the systems. I do hope you will stay involved, as much as you desire -- and want to thank you for all you've done to help us here. Toni

I'm new at towing (bought my Oliver last spring) but I will say that my Chevy Silverado 2500 HD tows like a dream. I was advised by Oliver TT that with this vehicle, I didn't need to add an anti-sway hitch. As Mike mentions above, I don't worry about payload (but I've made a spreadsheet, so that I have a very clear idea of what I'm doing, in my demands on the TT and the TV both) and it's been a wonderful experience so far. My TV is never straining. I did not want to find myself on the side of the road with a TV that has been pushed beyond its limits. My vehicle is a diesel; diesel costs a bit more at the pump, but I expect my engine to last a lot longer than a gas-powered vehicle (hopefully that holds true) and I'm averaging between 13 and 15 mpg towing, so far. I've towed approximately 4,000 miles this summer, and approximately 4,000 last year. I recommend driving every vehicle that you can (if possible) and make sure you pay attention to the creature comforts that might make a difference to you (heated seats, lumbar support, center console, etc). Good luck. It's exciting!

That's correct -- until the Truma WH gets fixed, I'm without my QC (I did buy the long hose and fittings for the Blackstone to work on QC, before I left home.) I'm probably going to order another hose to connect directly to a tank, rather than buy more of the throw-away cylinders. But I have 4 of them yet that I can use, if I get this fixed correctly.

For anyone with a Blackstone Griddle (17" or 22") -- I had an issue the other day: when I went to remove the 1-lb cylinder from the regulator (so I could drive down the road and not have it bouncing around) the brass tip of the regulator came OFF the regulator and stayed IN the cylinder. This meant that all the remaining propane came spewing out. No fun, and wasteful. The odd thing was that when I retrieved the brass tip (using needle-nose pliers, because the nut section was recessed into the well in the can) I didn't find any sort of gasket or see any residue of pipe dope, and I thought it was odd. I placed a ticket online with Blackstone hadn't heard back. My friend and I kept thinking that SURELY there would be a gasket in there; it's brass to some other gray-colored metal on the regulator. I had already searched Blackstone's website and manual for better information and photos or diagrams of that regulator. Then I decided to search online for other websites with photos -- Amazon, the ubiquitous search machine, provided a key photo that showed that end of the device and I could see a black gasket in there. THEN I remembered a black gasket I found near my truck, I pulled it out of my little 'lost and found' container... how about that! I called Blackstone's number to see if I could verify that there wasn't another gasket or pipe dope missing. Their phone service person kept referring to the brass tip as "broken" and saying that "this happens a lot and we just send you a replacement" and I kept trying to explain to her that it didn't "Break Off" it had merely come unscrewed (threaded same direction as the propane cylinder). She asked if I would send her photos, and I obliged and she exclaimed, "OH! I didn't know that piece was threaded because all I could see was that black thing." So for all the bad reviews and complaints on the regulators not working -- I have to wonder what percentage have this happen. I'm going to attach photos in case anyone runs into this. If a person didn't pay attention, the brass tip might be tossed with the spent cylinder. I'm still not certain whether it needs pipe dope or tape, and also not certain how tightly I should screw this down. I don't have a tool that fits OVER the tip and INTO the well (I checked) so needle-nose pliers are all I have to work with... thoughts and suggestions welcome.

And it might be difficult to service them because the slide-out might take the entire width of the 'hall' in the E2. Also, I'd personally prefer to do service on a battery outside rather than inside my trailer.

I tried earlier today and they weren't open for business. So I called Mike and asked him for guidance with the issue. He suggested he'd call Riverwood and figure out what is going on, and get back to me and -- THANKS MIKE! -- Riverwood has a replacement Truma Water Heater being shipped out today or tomorrow. This is EXCELLENT news and I want to credit Mike and Oliver's care. Also, I will be posting a followup in my other thread regarding my solution to the Blackstone Griddle problem (it was easy to fix, but not obvious). Thank you to everyone here for all the help and encouragement. I'm hoping that by next week I'll be able to use my Oliver for boondocking, as I intended.

No news is not always good news.... On Friday 7/21 morning, Riverwood RV asked for my purchase date; they already had the hull # and VIN, and things sounded fairly positive for some action. I reached out to Mike at Oliver and he confirmed the prognosis (Truma WH propane leak). He also gave me the phone number for Truma, since it was their warranty that would cover. Then I phoned Truma; they gave me my case number but were not willing to discuss much else, "because it's Riverwood's case". The person on the phone explained that if my case involves "Servicing Parts", Truma requires a trained and certified technician; full replacement can be done by a non-certified technician. In the end, Truma said that they were just waiting on Riverwood to provide information. This began to make me wonder, because Riverwood mentioned on Thursday that they hadn't worked with Truma. A followup call to Riverwood did not produce any information. I explained, I'm trying not to harass them, but I'm not feeling great about imposing on the intern next door, whose fridge and freezer and shower I'm using (it's US Fish & Wildlife property, not the intern's trailer, but still). Saturday I called during my lunch break and Riverwood said the service tech went home early that day. Yesterday I sat tight. This morning I called and got an earful of "it takes time" and "we had to register with them as a service center" and was told not to call Mike back because "it's out of his hands". They denied that they were having to go through training before my case would be approved. They denied that there was an argument about whether it might only need parts replacement (though I have to wonder). I certainly understand that he cannot estimate timelines when he hasn't worked with Truma -- how could he know about their potential turn-around time? I asked if he thought it could be a month (I'm here another 6 weeks) and he scoffed, but with global issues for parts and components, I'm not sure that I'll be here still if/when a replacement is shipped. Then he said my only option "would be to take it to another service center, and that's not going to happen." ?!? I asked why is that? He said, "because we do 80% of the service around here." Does anyone have experience with Truma customer service timelines for replacement? Truma's website has an option to find dealer/partners and I'll be darned if there isn't one just the other side of Bismarck from Riverwood. Hmmm. I called and inquired about their schedule (4 openings in August), and how much time it takes (probably a few hours to diagnose) and the warranty situation ("likely a week to 10 days for Truma, all by email, to approve warranty coverage") and then he said that sometimes people just go ahead and make the repairs -- meaning that they have pieces fitted locally for lines or hoses, if it's that simple, and then they try to submit for coverage on their own. I need to think about this. Maybe I should ask him for a price to diagnose, so I can decide what to do from there. I need more caffeine.

So, people obtain diagrams by asking for them individually? If that's the case, I'll definitely call and ask for them. It would be really nice if Oliver posted diagrams with each year's manuals. It would be very helpful to owners and mechanics. If the diagrams are 'guidance' and not literal, they could put a statement on the diagram that says so.

Is there a diagram for that? I didn't see one in my manual. Does the LP go to the WH first, then the furnace, then back to the stove and fridge?