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John E Davies

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Everything posted by John E Davies

  1. I wish you had not posted that, IMHO it is obscene. As a body design it is far worse than an FJ Cruiser in terms of not having even one feature that I like. I do love the concept of unbreakable windows, though that feature has some work left... https://www.fastcompany.com/90434937/oh-my-f-ing-god-elon-musks-tesla-cybertruck-reveal-goes-awkwardly-wrong Yikes..... It is 4:00 AM and I am awake and checking some websites, now I definitely will not get back to sleep. John Davies Spokane WA
  2. Let us know what you think of the tires, are they DuraTracs? I am shopping for replacements for my 200 that are a little longer lived than my soft compound Nitto Ridge Grapplers. John Davies Spokane WA
  3. I won't tow when the roads are slick with snow or ice, no way. The risks are just too high to both the trailer and the tow vehicle. I know that some owners use their trailers in winter, at a ski resort, for example. I am sure that one would get used to it, but it will never be an acceptably low risk, IMHO. OTH, If I were trapped back in the forest by an unseasonable early Fall snow storm, I might attempt getting the trailer out before it became completely trapped for the season. I would drive out in my tow vehicle and call a pro with a flatbed truck.... Call me a weenie if you like, I don't believe in winter camping when the roads are unsafe. And this doesn't even consider caustic deicers like mag chloride.... If I had to winter camp, I would buy a beater 1 ton truck, 4wd with studded tires, and a nice Northern Lite truck camper, no worries then... "Mouse" is parked inside for the winter season. John Davies Spokane WA
  4. Congratulations, I think you will enjoy the Rebel, please post some pics. It is unusual to see a use 2019, how did that happen? John Davies Spokane WA
  5. Do you travel alone? If so you could build a custom storage box on the one side .... but access to the stuff underneath will always be a big headache even if you add hatches on the vertical part of the existing area. John Davies Spokane WA
  6. I agree about your first paragraph, if Toyota USA updated and marketed this vehicle at ALL, and if they offered some lower trim versions like in Oz, it would sell very well here. Corporate Toyota just doesn’t care about it. OTH you NEVER see a brand new (or a nice used one) sitting for very long on a dealer’s lot, they sell within days. I hope I won’t offend you, but your second paragraph is way off. Overlanders are snapping up used 200s because they are so capable off pavement and completely bulletproof. I bought my 2013 with 90,000 miles on it, and am the fourth owner. It now has 140K and it drives and the inside looks like a brand new truck. The outside has brush stripes and some dings from using it as it was designed. If I have to replace it, I will buy another used one. I would pick a well cared for used 200 over any other brand new truck except for a new Power Wagon... I agree a full sized pickup is probably not a great choice but that is what Don wants. John Davies Spokane WA
  7. While “promising to be” a very capable vehicle no Land Rover will be reliable in the short or long term. I wouldn’t take a Defender ten miles down a rough track without sweating bullets about getting back again. If we start to talk about that much cash, a brand new Land Cruiser would work perfectly. Or a four year old one.... John Davies Spokane WA
  8. Don, you are caught in a very difficult time for pickup buyers, there is so much new stuff coming down the pipeline, it gets you to worrying. Here are some thoughts, they probably will differ from yours. When the price incentives for leftover new trucks are so high it makes no sense to pay anything close to MSRP. I don’t think the popular small diesel engines are heavily discounted. These incentives move new trucks off dealer lots but it kills the value of a late model used one, so I wouldn’t buy used.... Diesel vs gas: this has been discussed often, my feelings are that diesel emissions equipment is the cost killer, long term, and that removing them solves that problem, but it is illegal and anti-social. I would never own another diesel of any type. Period. There are some interesting changes coming, like the new Ford 7.3 gas engine, which promises to be reliable, super easy to maintain and reasonably fuel efficient when towing. But waiting on new tech is always going to be an exercise in frustration. The newest tech will be in high demand and will not be discounted for a while, and new equipment presents risks to the Beta testers. It is always best to wait a year. Light Duty vs Heavy Duty: For a daily driver a half ton can’t be beat, especially if you have to go into an urban area. But once you load it down and hook up the trailer, the HD version will be more satisfactory since it will not be working near its limits and you won’t be fretting about taking it into harsh conditions. We often hear from owners who went from a LD to a HD truck and were happy. Rarely does it happen in the other direction. HD trucks are built much stronger, with much higher reserves in frame and driveline strength. A HD truck is much less likely to break in the boonies, requiring a possibly very expensive tow. Once you get onto tracks or trails that a full sized tow truck cannot easily reach, your AAA tow insurance is null, and you might need to pay a $2000 for a specialty offroad recovery. There are many places in the West that meet this description, like the White Rim Road in Canyonlands, or the Alpine Loop in the San Juan Mountains. Buy a TOUGH truck! Offroad credentials: your new trailer will go anywhere it will fit, no doubt at all. It should be wonderful on washboard and potholed roads. On the highway it may not be as stable as you wished due to the suspension design and big tires. A HD truck will be better in both situations because its extra mass will dampen out any sway or instability. Suspension: Most pickups drive poorly off pavement, the ones with leaf springs are worse. This can be fixed with an aftermarket suspension but a factory one is probably a better choice. Longer travel, softer springs and big shocks are the best setup, but just adding better shocks can help a lot. Stock shocks tend to get overworked and then fade away, destroying the ride quality and wrecking your kidneys. The worst situation would be to have a TV that is bad on back country roads, you need to pick one that will balance and complement the capabilities of your trailer. When do you need to make a decision? Do you have to buy right away, can you borrow a tow vehicle to get your new trailer home? Test drive a bunch of trucks, I think you will find the right one. Buy a heavily discounted one that you like and enjoy it. These crazy wonderful deals will not last much longer though.... John Davies Spokane WA .
  9. You can’t purge the water system using that toilet fitting, not completely anyway. There are check valves in the outside lines that will prevent any flow except inward. You could blow out the inside faucets, outside shower and some of the lines, but the water that will definitely be trapped will be in the most vulnerable locations, close to the outside of the hull. John Davies Spokane WA
  10. Don, if you can get a super killer deal on a Tundra that you like, go for it. It will be very reliable but you will be buying 13 year old technology and, while well sorted, it won’t run anything like a more modern design. The interior is dated and the engine and transmission are lacking. A completely redesigned model is coming very soon. https://www.motor1.com/news/351355/2021-toyota-tundra-engine-rumors/ If you are fine with this, go for it. it won’t leave you stranded. The TRD Pro model would be a good choice for washboard roads. You will not like the stock suspension for those conditions. You should test drive a regular Ram 2500 with its wonderful rear coil suspension. It drives really nicely. I understand your concerns but I personally would choose a gas powered HD Ram over a Tundra, without any second thoughts. John Davies Spokane WA
  11. This one has all the good stuff. However I personally would choose one with cloth seats, no sunroof or nav, and NO Ram Boxes. The tire track graphics can be deleted or removed at delivery, but on the dark colored trucks they look cool IMHO ... not so much on a white truck ;( https://www.dennisdillon.com/inventory/new-2019-ram-2500-power-wagon-4wd-crew-cab-pickup-3c6tr5ej3kg648021 Rebel vs PW: .... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yCM7MOyjC00 John Davies Spokane WA
  12. Don Before you commit to a Rebel, look at and be sure to drive a 2019 Power Wagon. It has the refreshed interior which is VERY nice, the new 8 speed which really wakes it up and improves mpgs, and for the kind of desert exploring you want to do, in combination with towing, it is undoubtedly a much MUCH better choice than the light duty truck. Add rear airbags in the future for load leveling if that is needed, and that is it besides that stellar PW package. There is a trailer tech package that would be a plus, but not IMHO mandatory. The extra exterior cameras would be helpful when creeping offroad. The payload is low but you get all the heavy offroady stuff standard, including 33” tires, lockers, solid axles, swaybar disconnects and winch, so you don’t have to subtract the weight of any aftermarket mods. You have the payload of a half ton but with bullet proof heavy duty drivetrain. Dillon Ram near Boise has the best prices anywhere. The 2019s are still being heavily discounted. You can find one for $12k off MSRP. Fly in and drive one home. A Rebel is cool. A Power Wagon is special. PW owners are faithful and love their trucks. Almost as much as Land Cruiser owners. BTW, have you ever driven a 200? You should. A stock one would need to have a few mods, the special 2020 Heritage Edition is ready for the desert right off the showroom floor, it has All Terrains, no third row or side steps, and a Yakima cargo basket. My only complaint about a full sized pickup is that it just won’t fit on many of the forest roads I explore. For wide open desert it would not be a major issue. John Davies Spokane WA
  13. Cool those are super strong and well built. It comes with a cabin pressurization system standard - WOW, I was wondering about dust ingress... Are you OK with the cargo capacity? With full water and both jerry cans full (love those!) it will take away almost 400 pounds. Though with your engine you probably don't need extra fuel. Maybe extra water.... Do you have any idea about tongue weight? Are you OK with all that canvas when the strong desert winds blow? What tires are you getting for the Touareg? You can get Cooper ST Maxx as options on the trailer, those would also be a great choice for the trucklet. They are uber strong and extremely puncture resistant, though rather heavy. They would sure look great together. Be sure to post lots of pics, before you say goodbye forever. John Davies Spokane WA
  14. Cool vehicle, but not a marque that I would willingly take far from a tow truck..... I really like the 6x6 conversion, a Land Cruiser 200 diesel would be my pick in a heartbeat. https://www.whichcar.com.au/reviews/custom-4x4s/custom-toyota-land-cruiser-200-6x6-review John Davies Spokane WA
  15. You need to remove all possible loads and see if the situation improves. As overland pointed out, the fridge running on 12 volts would be a HUGE and constant drain. Make sure your converter is actually charging properly. Look at the remote display for your surge suppressor, if you have one, when you are on generator power and it should show a large amount of charging amps. I hate to say it, but if they were not damaged to start with they may be now. Complete discharges like yours are very hard on even RV deep cycle batteries. After your trip you need to get yours checked out by a shop (all fully charged followed by a load test). If one of your batteries is shorted internally, it will drag the others down, causing them to discharge. Good luck on the hunt, what are you after? John Davies Spokane WA
  16. If you are worried about future damage, and their associated costs, consider protection like flaps, films or bed liner sprays. The latter methods would cover up any existing small chips. With my Stone Stomper and chassis rock guards I only get an occasional insignificant ding way up high from stones tossed over my TV by a passing truck. None whatsoever underneath or in front below the truck roofline. John Davies Spokane WA
  17. Scuffs and light scratches can be polished out with automotive compounds, no worries. Rock chips and cracks are a whole different scenario. There are a number of white repair epoxies that you could use in an emergency, but the results are never pleasing. A professional gelcoat repair from a boat shop would be my first choice. Doing gelcoat repairs yourself is tricky, there is a very steep learning curve, and I personally would not want to practice on my Ollie. Maybe on an old canoe or something of little value.... https://www.boatingmag.com/how-to-repair-damaged-gelcoat/ My biggest complaint is the cost of the materials: toxic solvents, epoxy resins, coloring and thickening agents, etc. In tiny DIY quantities they are expensive enough. In larger amounts (pint or quart cans) they are prohibitive. And they have a short shelf life, so you end up with a bunch of wasted materials. A pro shop has all that stuff by the gallon (and fresh), plus years of daily experience. Thirty years back when I had a big power boat and a lot less sense, I did some below-the-waterline gelcoat repairs. They worked out OK but they did NOT look that good. I won't even think about doing it myself these days. Uber expensive marine gelcoat stuff Plus - a shop will have a guarantee, if they screw up some repairs they will fix it at no charge. If you screw it up, you are on your own, angry and upset with yourself... John Davies Spokane WA
  18. SharkBite fittings are very cool but they are a VERY costly method of repair. There are times when one can be a life saver, and the ability to release the grip and pull out the pipe can be useful. But I would not trust a fitting that has been reused to not leak. I much prefer using regular crimp rings and Pex fittings. The old school copper crimp rings are a royal PITA, but the SharkBite stainless ones are wonderful, but OTH you need their ratcheting crimper to install them. To remove one, you just grab the crimped part with vise grips and twist it. The copper ones have to be cut off! You can buy the tool for the cost of a handful of push SB fittings; the regular brass PEX couplers, elbows etc are cheap. The stainless clamps are only 50 cents each. This tool will do everything from 3/8” all the way up to 1”, so it works nicely for home repairs too, like your irrigation system.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-3-Handle-3-8-in-to-1-in-PEX-Clamp-Tool/1000224581 As an older gentleman I have a hard time crimping the 1” rings due to hand and arm strength. Slipping a couple of pieces of hollow pipe over the handles gets the job done easily. John Davies Spokane WA
  19. What do you mean by pressure relief valve? That is not the same as an air bleeder valve, which just gets rid of the trapped air pocket. The only way I know to take pressure off the grease is to pull back and lock the spring plunger. Thanks. John Davies Spokane ZWA
  20. I have been thinking about trying that Lube Shuttle grease system for a while, but I have severe doubts about availability of refill tubes, and a limited assortment of grease types. It is a very new system here in the USA and you can't just drop in to any auto parts store for a new tube.... if you get one, please give us a full report. John Davies Spokane WA
  21. Always read the one star ones, they will tell the story about customer support when the device stops working. John Davies Spokane WA
  22. Grease fluid leaking out of gun.... this is a normal situation, one that I hate, and a little leakage is nothing to worry about, but if there is a lot, you need to toss the grease and install a fresh new tube. The liquid oils tend to naturally and gradually separate out from the wax carrier; if you continue to lube with that leaky tube, you are getting more wax and less actual lubricant. With wheel bearings it doesn't really matter of the oils separate out since they are trapped inside the hub and will mix in the next time the wheel starts turning. For stationary suspension parts with no seals, oil separation is more worrisome... I think that is one reason for the recommended 3000 mile interval. Here is a long technical article, at the bottom is excellent info on the best way to store grease. High temperature, heat fluctuations and altitude changes are not recommended ;( Which makes it hard to carry in your trailer or TV... Cartridge tubes of grease should be stored upright at all times. If a cartridge tube is left in a grease gun, the grease gun should be depressurized, wiped with a clean cloth to remove any contaminants and stored in a horizontal position inside a clean, cool, dry area to keep the oil from bleeding out of the grease. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28761/storing-grease-to-avoid-bleed-separation- John Davies Spokane WA
  23. Oops, that inverter has a Yamaha engine but in spite of being "Yamaha Blue", it is not manufactured by Yamaha. I know nothing about it, but I would do a lot of research about customer support, parts, warranty, etc, before buying. An actual genuine Yamaha generator is right up there with Honda in terms of customer support, build quality and features. Take a look at the one star reviews there. John Davies Spokane WA
  24. carnivore, you need to consider environmental conditions, unless you just want to do it as recommended. If all your towing is on smooth dry roads you can double that number. If you are often in torrential rain, or rutted dust and mud, then you should do it more frequently. 3000 miles is a good average but it isn’t written in stone. Also, the type of grease you use can affect this, you don’t want to use a type that will wash out easily if you tow in the wet. I just use regular automotive chassis grease at 3000 mile intervals, but while I rarely tow on soaked roads, I do drive on dusty ones. Consider some rubber flaps across the front of the subframe, they will stop that high velocity water rooster tail from blasting hard into your suspension bushings. John Davies Spokane WA
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