John E Davies

Overland, it isn’t sensational, it is a safety issue, if the coupler manufacturer recommends one part, and Oliver substitutes a different part, and the torque values are different, it will cause problems. An owner may put in Grade 5 bolts and overtighten them because of the vague Oliver torque recommendation which never mentions the type of bolt. Whether or not my snapped bolt was a fluke is not the issue, it’s the need to establish which bolts are supposed to be used here. What was sensational was having that heavy bolt go bang and shoot at high speed across my garage. That is not something you want to happen during a trip. John Davies Spokane WA

Well, it depends a whole lot on where you live and how you tow. I normally stick to secondary highways and county roads, and routinely have very steep grades to deal with. Sometimes reaching 18%, steep enough to require first gear both up and down...... If you rarely have to deal with roads like that, it definitely makes fuel economy more important than gears. This is one reason it is good for members to add a location to their profile. John Davies Spokane WA

Been there, done that. I used to hang out there constantly, but since I got the 200 and it is so close to stock .... not so much. My son totaled this truck a couple of years ago, but he was unhurt. The LX450 saved him. What a great truck, as you pointed out, it just needed a decent motor for towing... Getting turned around on a side road along the Magruder Corridor Road, Idaho Panhandle, when the double track turned into an ATV trail. You can’t do that with either Ollie: After owning my 200 for a couple of years, I have zero regrets and would never go back. John Davies Spokane WA

When picking a tow vehicle that will be actually used a LOT for towing, always choose the most power, the lowest gearing (highest number axles), and the biggest gas tank. Those three things will make the long long drives way more enjoyable. Everything else is just what appeals to you. If you only plan to tow a few thousand miles a year in easy terrain, and daily drive it the rest of the time, go for the highway gearing and the slightly better fuel economy. Nobody every complains that they bought the towing gears, but often we hear folks wishing they had them.... especially if they have a light duty truck and start sticking oversized tires and lots of heavy accessories on it. John Davies Spokane WA

Nice Lexus, I really like them. I actually test drove one a month ago, considering it for my daughter. You need to factor in your larger tires and added equipment, like that heavy front bumper and winch, when figuring tow capacity and payload. What axle ratio do you have? What diameter were the factory tires? What is the specified max tongue weight? The Elite is a cool little trailer, but it is heavy for its size. I suspect that your truck would be fine but some of those high back country passes will definitely have you wishing for more power. The 4.7 liter V8 is not a powerhouse... We hear from buyers who want to tow with marginal existing vehicles and all too often they just don’t have enough reserve capacity for really harsh conditions (hot, high and windy). If you didn’t have to tackle those passes, I would not hesitate to recommend what you propose. But in reality I think you would be much better off with either a lighter load or a bigger TV like a Land Cruiser 200. My 2013 200 struggles with the Elite II on those steep grades, but it would pull the smaller trailer without worries.... my truck is stock except for 33” LT tires (+ 2”). Plus the 200 is one of the few vehicles that lets you safely tow in 4 Low on pavement, which is really handy at altitude. The fixed tongue jack is easily swapped out for a heavy duty offroad swiveling unit. If your TV doesn’t need an equalizing hitch, you can put on an offroad coupler and you would be all set for nasty forest roads. .... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/off-road-jack-and-multi-axis-hitch-on-an-ollie/ As far as the Elite offroad, both models have plain old RV spring suspension, with heavy duty greaseable shackles. Ground clearance is a non issue, but suspension travel is very poor and you would need to keep the speed way down over potholes and washboards. Airing down helps, but you will end up banging the axle into the subframe more than you like. Have you thought about the Black Series trailers? They are very cool and have the suspension and coupler you need for back country travel. Unfortunately they are porky, even the smallest one is significantly heavier than an Elite. ... https://www.blackseriescamper.com/src/data/brochure/BlackSeries-catolog-2018.pdf? Welcome to the forums. That is a great picture. John Davies Spokane WA

I use Permatex silver anti-seize and it specifically says on the can to NOT reduce the torque setting. Maybe that is incorrect....! But I have used it for many decades and never had a problem like this before. Here is the TDS: I am not new at this, it is not a problem with the installation. Maybe my wrench is off, but if so, then it would have to be WAY off to snap a big Grade 8 bolt. It didn't't feel like it was twice the recommended value... I have used it on lug nuts etc and there are no issues... it feels fine during use. I intentionally snapped a 1/2" stainless bumper bolt that was seized. That is a softer material, and it required a two foot breaker bar and a whole lot of grunt to twist it apart. I think I am looking at a bad Grade 8 bolt. Which is disappointing since it came from Fastenal, not the hardware store. Thanks for the comments. It will be very interesting to see what Howenwald advises. John Davies Spokane WA

EDIT 08/29/19 Added extra bolts to the coupler here: ...https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-reinforce-your-bulldog-coupler-by-adding-extra-bolts/ Please comment ... I am worried. Here is what I submitted to Service: Hi, I recently replaced my coupler with a larger one. I used new 1/2"-18 Grade 8 bolts and torqued them to the specified 80 ft lbs. That is the recommended value here: tsb-torque-specifications/ And it is also the recommended value, generically, for this bolt type and size. HOWEVER, the Bulldog instructions recommend installing Grade 5 bolts at 55 ft lbs. Bulldog Instr Today I went to check the bolt torques, and one of my Grade 8 ones sheared and flew across the room. The other bolt is fine. So either I just got one bad bolt, or the torque value is not appropriate for this application, or I should be using SOFTER, less brittle Grade 5 bolts as recommended by Bulldog, at a smaller torque value. I think you need to amend your TSB with detailed instructions on type of bolt to be used and the torque value. Somebody has, or is going to, replace his hardware using the Bulldog instructions and your higher TSB torque value, you can bet one it.,.... I also think this merits a new TSB and an email to all owners to clarify the situation. Please advise, should I just put in two new Gr 8 bolts at 80 ft lbs or go with Gr 5 at 55 ft lbs? Also, I want to install a third bolt half way between the two factory locations, to add some strength and a safety factor in case one fails. Is it OK to drill new holes up high, so the bolt runs just under the top inside surface of the tongue? I would not use a compression sleeve. John Davies Spokane WA

It would be VERY helpful if you could go back and annotate some of your pictures that have circles or arrows, by adding text boxes. All this stuff is so fresh in your mind that you understand what each picture means, but to somebody who has never seen inside this unit, a lot of the pictures are not very meaningful. If you removed the exhaust duct at the start, would that have helped getting the unit out? It seems to intrude very far into the compartment.... I feel for you, what a nightmare. I thought that these trailers were more intelligently designed in terms of access, but apparently not. You can’t do anything to your fridge without completely removing it, so NObody bothers to do the recommended preventive maintenance. I can’t see an owner removing a furnace unless it has failed....it is very depressing to see shoddy workmanship, there is simply no excuse for that in an Oliver. FYI, if you removed the furnace and the hot water heater, and threw them as far away as possible, you could easily fit a Webasto Dual Top diesel fired marine furnace/ WH combo, with room left over to put an outside compartment to mount a small diesel fuel tank. Put in a diesel stove top and replace the fridge with a compressor version. Then sell the front propane tanks and the doghouse, and put a nifty double bike rack up there.... I hate propane RV appliances with a passion. Thanks for posting. John Davies Spokane WA

Historically it has always been very slow, sometimes so slow that the page simply stalls out. The last year or so seems to have been better, a little. There does not seem to be any impetus to correct this speed issue so we are living with it. Right now I am not getting any New Reply or Unread flags. I assume they will return when the forum is re-stabilized... plus I haven’t had a PM in a long time, maybe nobody wants to chat with me any more or that is busted too... would somebody please send me a PM? John Davies Spokane WA

One thing about straight stripes, it makes it dead easy to see if your rig is level. The frame is a little odd, the rear bumper structure is reinforced and the crossbars extend down below the actual frame rails, so it looks a little butt-low when it is not. Has anyone else noticed that? John Davies Spokane WA

I won’t ever read anything on Jezebel. But I agree with your comment about the swooshes on Ollies. I think they are both unnecessary and detract from their clean and sophisticated lines. ”Mouse” is mostly bare. I had asked for just the Oliver Legacy Elite II graphic on each side and the front factory logo. They left off the stripes but also left off the side logos. I got so darned tired of hearing people ask, “Is that some sort of Casita?” Or “What is a Mouse?” that I had them send me stickers at no charge. Not once since I installed them have I been asked that particular question..... Now it is usually “That is so cool, I have been reading about Olivers! Can I peek inside?” PS I want your awning straps, do they flutter and moan in strong crosswinds and do you have a link? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I have used this stuff for a couple of years with zero issues. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006V0LNY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don’t understand the black streaks, I have never had anything but stellar shine. It is very important to follow the directions, maybe that can cause problems. Strip any existing wax by washing with Dawn dish detergent. Follow up with a wipe down with a good paint prep product, I use the 3M Adhesive Cleaner, which is standard for many body shops. This lets you get off the tar, bugs, sap or other glop that is bonded to the gelcoat. Once it is “baby bottom smooth” apply the Rejex in the shade, buff it out and let it sit in the shade overnight. It’s a lot of work but the results are jaw dropping and it stays looking nice for a very long time. Bugs come off easily, diesel soot stains (on an older TV) wipe off, most of the road road dirt rinses under just high pressure water at a quarter car wash, no soap needed when your are on the road and want it to look reasonably clean. I use it on every car and truck, my canoe and my Ollie.i am not going back to any other product, no way. John Davies Spokane WA

A member posted this link to a most excellent furnace troubleshooting video. If anybody actually removes the outer access panel on their Ollie, I would appreciate it if you posted pictures in this thread. EDIT: More info, including how to remove the sail switch with pictures... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/need-help-in-a-really-cool-place-but-no-heat/#post-148492 John Davies Spokane WA

Dave, thanks so much for that video link, I am going to add it to my thread on servicing the furnace. John Davies Spokane WA

I don't think you can do much of anything to this furnace with it in situ, you cannot even snake a borescope inside the exterior openings enough to see anything but dirt. Pulling the unit out should not be hard tho I have never attempted it. This might help, a little... you can inspect the flame, if it actually lights, and remove the ignitor lead and the ignitor itself. Once out, you can perhaps see inside the can with a scope to see if there is a nest in there. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-service-your-furnace/ Keep in mind that circuit board problems are very common with all these cheap RV appliances, yours may be toast. Good luck, and please start a new thread if you remove it, with pics, to help other owners. John Davies Spokane WA

The telescoping ladders are more stable when the skinny parts are not all extended. Unless you simply don’t have the storage space, a taller one will be better for actually using, since you can leave more of the small top parts collapsed. For an older person I strongly suggest a taller ladder of this type. The Werner articulating type will be way, WAY more stable to use than any telescoping one. John Davies Spokane WA

Don’t waste time worrying about the locking lever, just put a good lock on the coupler. I use The Collar and it works great. ... if you must have a lock through the latch, simply drill the holes to a larger diameter, say 9/32” for a 1/4” pin-style lock or padlock. https://smile.amazon.com/Collar-Trailer-Bulldog-style-Couplers-Including/dp/B00HL2NM0K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=The+Collar+bulldog+lock&qid=1566072596&s=automotive&sr=1-1 If you want to up the ante and make sure some jerk cannot possibly drop the locked coupler over a smaller ball and drag it away, buy a 2” hardened ball bearing and lock it inside your coupler. Can you post a closeup picture of your receiver? If it is like the Land Cruiser, it is a little odd. I removed the plastic trim surround piece, cut it out to provide more room for the pin, and reinstalled it. I can post a picture of mine if you think that might be your issue. I have been using this lock with no issues. It fits fine (after trimming). It’s a very low quality lock but way better than a bare pin. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FULTON-1-2-Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount-Lock-RL50-/252126480133?hash=item3ab3e8c705 John Davies Spokane WA

I wouldn’t abandon it entirely, you may just have a bad unit. Ours has alarmed one time in three seasons. That was due to a 25 mph crosswind blowing exhaust fumes from the water heater inside. (Note to self..... don’t run the gas water heater in a stiff crosswind.) Otherwise it has been perfect. It has never tripped due to propane. I do test it monthly along with the other detector. Replace it with a new one, if that doesn’t cure the problem, then you can worry about relocating it or other options. It does indeed need to be low down, due to the higher density of propane. By the time a ceiling mounted one triggered you might already be suffocated. John Davies Spokane WA

I just watched this video and it got me thinking harder about deterrents.... They mention using your truck remote to start your engine, if it has that feature. If you leave your headlights in Auto the lights will come on also. Brilliant..... unless it tempts the bad guy to bust into the truck and drive away. Or you can use the panic button to engage the truck security alarm. That sounds good, if the remote range is adequate. Any ideas on how to easily wire ALL the exterior lights in your Ollie to a single prominent switch near the beds? I don’t want to wake up all confused and muzzy at 200 AM and have to walk to the entrance and figure out which switches to flip. I guess it could include a loud alarm. Has anyone installed a security system in their trailer? How about a peep hole in the door? I am concerned about large bears as much as about human predators. Please advise. John Davies Spokane WA

There are a number of past threads. Put “ladder” in the search window. I don't recall anyone discussing a ladder that includes a cover. I suggest one of the wonderful Werner articulated ladders if you don’t need to put it in the closet. The MT-13 is fine for an Ollie but too short for all around home use. Look for sales at the box stores. John Davies Spokane WA

As overland said, there are a number of options, but connecting a 3/4" garden hose to the bottom supply port on the truck tank with an inline ball valve to the winterization port would be simplest and most effective. Unless there is already a ball valve incorporated in that tank. You could leave the hose hooked up all the time. When the trailer tank gets low, open the ball valve and use the Ollie's pump to refill the tank - you can easily position the correct valves to pump it into the fresh tank. When the overflow spits water, close the ball valve and reset the onboard valves. Repeat until your truck tank is empty. You need a good sized hose since it will be on the suction side, but the tank head pressure will assist, assuming you are not parked downhill. For a nice looking and sanitary setup, considering using these scrumptious Eley hose accessories with solid brass quick detach fittings. ... They have a 3/4" inside hole, unlike most other fittings which are quite restrictive. ... https://www.eleyhosereels.com/collections/watering-tools John Davies Spokane WA

Keep in mind that those ridiculous 22s would probably sell faster than the smaller wheels on Craigslist as take-offs, to clueless owners wanting the latest look. If you do want to swap them, do it ASAP so that they are like new..... I saw a CL ad for Tundra takeoff wheels and tires, a set of five, with 7 miles on them, he “drove straight from the dealer to the tire store”. LOL. He was asking $900, without TPMS senders, which for the buyer is a pure steal. My 200 has 18s, the Lexus version has 22s. I actually would prefer 17” but most of the aftermarket wheels won’t clear the front brake calipers..... I didn’t know about FX4 availability, thanks for the info. John Davies Spokane WA

Can’t you just buy the FX4 package? John Davies Spokane WA

I always carry my Yamaha generator inside the Land Cruiser, no problems, no fumes. The filler cap seals tight. I do run the carb dry at shutdown... I keep it all the way at the back so I can drop the tailgate and run it in situ with the exhaust pointed outwards, of course. Extra fuel rides on the back of the Ollie in two real original Wedco Nato jerry cans, not the new style ones. I will carry one upright jerry can inside the LC if necessary, for a short trip. I never notice the slightest odor of gas. You can drop these off a truck onto concrete and they won't vent or spill. They can heat up in the sun until they are hot to the touch and swell, and they won't vent. They can be carried flat on a roof rack, no worries. For transfer I use a high volume syphon pump with a squeeze bulb to start the flow. Gas storage is a pain but it is solvable. It is best to keep it outside but not absolutely mandatory with the right cans. Good luck on the Expedition Max. John Davies Spokane WA

This is so cool, I have never heard of it. If I had a little skiff or squareback canoe I would buy this in a heartbeat.... https://spokane.craigslist.org/bpo/d/colville-oliver-75-outboard/6954632650.html BTW the seller is located about an hour north of Spokane. John Davies Spokane WA