John E Davies

If you have a camera that will allow you to watch when not in Reverse, you can turn it on in stop and go heavy traffic, like going through a huge urban area like Seattle or SLC (yikes!). Being able to see behind REALLY helps you with lane changes. This is especially true if your TV does not have really wide tow mirrors, like my Land Cruiser. I can just see the sides of the Ollie, but not anything behind it. I think that after adding the camera, my heart rate dropped by 40 beats per minute in nasty situations... it has a calming effect. 😉 It also allows you to check the load on a rear rack or tray, like bikes. For solo travel (no spouse) it is priceless. I have a Garmin BC30 camera that I use with my Garmin gps, it is low res but works fine, and I can add up to three more cameras... I bet that the factory BU camera can be hacked to turn on independently of the reverse lights. You could easily switch that power wire to the running lights. (BTW I always travel with them turned on, the little star-like LEDs look so very cool.) John Davies Spokane WA

Well, this is what my roof looks like now.... i am waiting on some 3M 4000UV sealant, the good stuff, before I can reassemble it. Other than the shuddering, I had a small nuisance water leak from the rear curbside corner of the inner trim piece. This shows evidence of the leak: I discovered that the upper mount flange screws were not sealed, and the sealant inside was misapplied during the build, so that that corner had a gap, notice the dirt entry into that corner via the screw heads: I got the shuddering issue fixed, I will write all this up as a new thread with lots of pics and some tips. Darn it...... this is sloppy work. But OTH, in a stick and staple trailer, this would probably have screwed up the roof. John Davies Spokane WA

The lid shudders and jerks when operating. I have removed the whole fan from the roof and plan to investigate further. The lid gearbox AKA "operator" appears to be two halves held together with screws. Has anyone dissembled this unit, cleaned and lubed it? What lube did you use? Mine has a bunch of accumulated crud around it and I suspect the lube has leaked out. I can get a new one but since mine is out of warranty I would rather just service mine if possible. I haven't found anybody who has done this online. Operator replacement and SYNCHRONIZING instructions: ... https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/MaxxFanLiftInstructions.pdf Thanks for any comments. John Davies Spokane WA

Well, maybe some moderator could make a sticky forum or Towing FAQ so that this stuff would be more easily accessible to raw newbies. OTH, Some of us like to chat, even if it has been said before. So never mind.... we will keep leading them by the hand until they get it all figured out...🙂 John Davies Spokane WA

Maybe you should provide a link...... For looooong trips and extreme conditions (high, hot, steep) a heavy duty 4wd truck will be much more satisfactory, and you will not have any concerns about payload, AND you won't have to use the Andersen hitch (a $50 dead weight ball and mount is fine). Once you add "stuff" to any 1500, like canopy, racks, drawer slide, bigger tires, offroad armor, etc etc, your available payload quickly drops into the danger zone. Just a canopy and slide system might weigh 400 to 500 pounds. John Davies Spokane WA

Katanapilot, thanks for the info. I knew a little about cryo treating, but was unaware that you could just ship off automotive parts to get it done..... I guess my real question is, if you got that almost 100k miles on your OEM rotors and pads, why even bother? How much did it cost to ship and treat a set of heavy rotors? How many miles do you drive annually? I am sorry to hijack the thread, maybe this should be the subject of a new one. John Davies Spokane WA

I guess if the ubolts were loose that might happen..... but if those four nuts are properly torqued there is no way the leaves could ever do that. If I saw a clip missing, it would not bother me a bit, and I certainly would not replace them, or the entire springs. BTW when I first checked my ubolts, they were a little loose, they are worth checking, just like the shackle nuts and the brake backing plate nuts. You never know what you will find..... John Davies Spokane WA

Would you mind explaining about the rotors and pads? I just don’t understand this..... I agree about Toyota trucks (not the cars and crossovers). I am a huge fan of them, and of certain Lexus models. The Tundra is definitely Old School, and long overdue for a major model update. The problem is that if you drive a recent model made by one of the Big Three, it might easily spoil you when compared to that obsolete technology. For example, the new Ram interiors are simply luscious. The driving experience of a newer truck with a MUCH better NVH design and more gears will be much higher, which is a really important factor for anyone who plans to spend many months on the road. I would never say “Don’t buy a Tundra”, because with the 5,7 engine it is a reliable workhorse. But I think a Certified two or three year old used truck with better features would be worth considering hard. For example, a later Ram 2500 with the most excellent soft riding rear coil suspension. .... http://www.trucktrend.com/news/1306-2014-ram-2500-five-link-coil-rear-suspension/ John Davies Spokane WA

I have wondered about these. Are we talking about the wraparound clip like in this pic? I have never been able to find out its purpose. If it is designed to capture a broken leaf, why isn’t there another one on the opposite side? I understand a “military wrap”, where the second spring is much longer and wraps around the eye, in case the upper one breaks. Does the clip have a similar function? If not, what is its purpose? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

THIS! Sales droids are hired to sell, they are very often self educated about their latest products, and if they have any previous sales knowledge, it may be for furniture or imported cars or for another brand of truck. Once you start asking towing specifics about gear ratios or payload, you can watch their eyes glaze and their smile becomes even more forced. You need to perform your own education, the sales guy is only there to show you the vehicles and give you directions on your test drive. Period. He does not even make the sales decision, remember that he is just a go between with the manager in the back room. So be polite, but remember his only function is to get you to drive away today in one of their vehicles. John Davies Spokane WA

If you are not an experienced tower, then you should look hard at the available Towing Technology packages. They are all different depending on the manufacturer and even Light Duty vs Heavy Duty. If I were buying a New Ram HD, I would check the option box for this - it includes full surround cameras, the ability to add a rear view trailer camera and also trailer TPMS. Research, research, watch towing test videos from The Fast Lane Trucks, ask questions, take some trucks for drives - you have so much time to make a decision. Don't act until you are 100% sure. Buy enough truck! If you want more detailed advice, tell us do you plan to buy a new truck, or used, and where you plan to tow and how many miles annually. John Davies Spokane WA

John Davies Spokane WA

It is harder to reach stuff in that part of the storage compartment without an inside access door. It’s a very long reach from the outside, street-side opening; many owners use one or two milk crates for their smaller items and tie a rope onto them, to pull them out easily. An inside door is handy but in no way mandatory. I don’t have one. OTH if you often camp in a wet climate, you could access stuff without having to go out into the foul weather. John Davies Spokane WA

It is entirely up to where (and how) your unit is stored. I have been a very longtime AAA member and have their RV Roadside Assistance (with 200 mile free towing). But even so, their insurance rate for “Mouse” was not so great. I went with Progressive. Call around or ask for quotes from their websites. Be sure to compare features, a stripped rate will not provide equal loss coverage to a premium policy. Mine will replace my stolen Ollie with a “similar” new replacement Ollie for the first five years. After that it will pay me the purchase price. John Davies Spokane WA

7.5 amp is maybe a little harder to find in a store.... I personally would not bother changing it, unless you already have a 7.5. The 10 will blow just as fast if there is a short circuit in the wire or furnace, which is its only purpose. Having a “too small” fuse would possibly be bad, since it could pop during normal operation. As an example, the factory was putting 1 amp fuses in the Natures Head toilet circuit (for the fan) and these would blow after a while. The NH factory specifies a 2.5 which does not pop. But it is hard to find, so I use a 3... John Davies Spokane WA

Do you mind sharing the cost of the factory upgrade? Did that price include a credit for the 2” one that was removed? If not, did you take it with you? FYI, I just sold my well used 2” one on Craigslist for $20. I think a brand new “take off” coupler would sell for $40. (Amazon Prime cost is $70.) Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

A couple of years ago we had an Andersen hitch thread, with an Andersen company service rep actively participating. Her specific comment, which she refused to change even when (rather strongly) challenged by me, was that the deep groove wear on the trailer side of the ball was “completely normal”. While some owners don’t experience the same amount, the side wear is the result of the design of the Bulldog and its uneven contact - only by going to a bigger diameter will it be minimized. But not 100% eliminated. Mine was worn to a point that during certain maneuvers the coupler would pop out of the groove and then back in again with a disturbing bang. My big ball only has a couple of thousand miles on it and it shows only polishing marks. HOWEVER , I lightened the TW by 220+ pounds and backed way off on the chain tension. So my data is no longer really valid since I nearly eliminated the side load. OTH if your ball does get worn you can rotate it 180 degrees and use it a lot longer. For the same money outlay I would not hesitate to recommend the bigger coupler. Is it needed for additional safety? It does offer a larger margin. But only in your head. Only you can decide its importance. I have zero regrets. It makes me feel good, like having a TPMS, and that makes me feel better about towing. John Davies Spokane WA

I assume you are referring to Mr Andersen’s defacing of (at least) two sandstone arches in Moab? I think that is a truly atrocious thing to do, but boycotting their entire product line for the act of an idiot seems counterproductive. The hitch works very well, within its intended purposes, and I have had nothing but stellar customer service from the company employees. If I see Mr Andersen in person, I will punch him out for you. 😉 For those members who are scratching their heads.... https://www.idahostatejournal.com/members/east-idaho-family-facing-backlash-for-reportedly-defacing-corona-arch/article_06e2e5fe-de1a-5094-a557-95e53287525d.html https://moabtimes.com/2016/05/05/27175611-graffiti-found-etched-into-frame-arch-at-arches-n-p/ “Tread Lightly” does seem to be a very alien concept to him..... From “Justified” Season 4 (may be offensive to some): ..... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6jy__tBe8eg John Davies Spokane WA

Yikes, I am so glad you both survived that! I worry most about coyotes and deer at dawn and dusk. Except when on National Forest roads, I have never really thought about moose, especially about one crossing an Interstate highway. What do you plan to replace the GC with? Something a little stronger, maybe? How about a roo bar? I completely agree about not towing at night. Even if you saw the moose in the darkness, you might not have been able to slow in time. It is hard enough in broad daylight when you come over a rise and see three large deer standing motionless in your lane. John Davies Spokane WA

??? I don’t find the cables to be a problem, I do like how they stay off the ground and don’t rattle. I do not like how you cannot crisscross them under the ball. What especially was the issue with your cables? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I don’t run any jacks down at all, if I can get the trailer level by positioning it and it is hitched. The exception is when it is gusty windy, then the trailer shakes and needs the extra help of the factory jacks. Everyone’s tolerance is different, but please keep in mind, it isn’t a house, it is going to move around. You will adjust to it. Ever slept on a boat at anchor? LOL.... now that is motion. I think a lot of first time RVers especially have unrealistic expectations about the comfort level of their trailers. That is why I recommend that they rent an RV of any kind for at least a week, before committing to buying one. Finally, an Ollie is definitely built like a little tank, but is not going to stay planted like a 20,000 pound Fiver.. John Davies Spokane WA

Better yet, camp where the chance of meeting one is zero. Meaning any primitive sites in National Forests out West. They have had such severe financial cutbacks they can’t even maintain the roads, much less patrol them properly..... You just don’t see any Rangers in any area besides their Stations in nearby towns. Twenty years ago, they were everywhere. So sad. Developed NFS campgrounds with hosts are a different story, those fine folks seem to universally care about taking care of their campgrounds, and will let you know if you can dump grey water. In my experience, it isn't ever permitted there. And never ever dump close to a lake or stream, use common sense. All this is IMHO, because as Landrover points out, the rules are every which way, if you can even find them in writing..... John Davies Spokane WA

I respectfully disagree. I doubt if I tow on as much gravel and forest roads as you do, but my trailer stays looking very nice. No damage to the gelcoat, even underneath. No damage to frame or suspension. The wheels stay looking nice. No worries about unexpected construction zones, detours or 30 miles of freshly chip-sealed highways. Deflecting all the rock carnage away from the trailer is they key. I don’t believe you should accept lots of cosmetic damage as inevitable, because it is not. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2504-how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2513-how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2505-how-to-subframe-gravel-guard/ OTH I never tow on wet roads in winter because of the mag chloride on the highways in the West. There is no way to prevent that from destroying the aluminum and stainless parts. I do avoid dragging the trailer down overgrown tracks, you can’t do anything to prevent brush stripes. John Davies Spokane WA

The chain through the wheels is a great visual deterrent, but what about wrecking the finish on your wheels? Dragging the links through the holes is going to hurt..... I don’t see how it could be avoided. I sometimes secure camp chairs and such through a wheel, but I use a long Python coated cable lock, which slides through without any damage. The lock itself isn’t very secure, but it is really versatile and has worked so far. John Davies Spokane WA

The Collar has worked very well for me, I like it. I do caution about disc locks. Many are garbage and most crooks know it from watching the YouTube picking videos. It is certainly better than a clevis pin, but only marginally. The German made Abus disc locks are good. If it came from U-haul or a storage facility, toss it! You can spend a fortune on a high quality lock, I settled on this hardened pick resistant Stanley. It is very heavy duty and looks intimidating. Bolt cutters won’t touch it. Cost is reasonable for what you get. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5IYT2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=unitedlocks20-20&linkId=25f7d0bcd04bdade42aacad06c0419ad John Davies Spokane WA