John E Davies

As far as blowouts go, I wasn’t referring to the trailer tires at all, rather a piece of tire carcass left in the highway that gets flipped up by the Ollie tires. Or a scrap of wood, or an actual carcass like the adult raccoon I ran over just last week. (No damage other than to the coon.) I agree that an LT tire exploding in your tire well will give you a whole lot more to worry about in terms of lost vacation time, towing cost and shop repairs... Got TPMS in your trailer? John Davies Spokane WA

Possibly, where would you hook it? There is not much exposed structure there. You could use one link of the right side Andersen chain, if you use that hitch. It needs to be quick and easy to hook up or you won’t use it, especially if you have to squat down and fumble around under the frame…. and it can’t get dirty or you will not want to handle it. It would probably work OK around the straight part, but I think it would chafe the gelcoat because of the angle. In that case, just hook onto the rubber strap thingee that holds down the doghouse cover. John Davies Spokane WA

Show me a better solution that does not cost me any $$$ and I will gladly buy you a nice steak dinner. 😁 Any way, this one was not my idea, I am recycling it. John Davies Spokane WA

My wife found those five years ago, somewhere on Amazon. They are true Twins, I narrowed them a lot so they would work better on the Ollie “Twins” aka bunk mattresses. John Davies Spokane WA.

Field testing and comments. Unfortunately the air is super clear, so I can’t actually see if the smoke smell gets trapped by the filter. View out the window: obviously it is restricted, but since I sleep head to front I can still see out toward the rear pretty well. The fit: the filter actually seals pretty darned well, almost like it was intended for the Ollie window. Keep in mind my filter is an inch too long, a 24” one would seal better in the middle where the slider goes by. Test setup, one MERV 12 filter in the rear curb side window. Turned OFF solar and the fridge (it cycled and messed up the readings). No other known ( fluctuating) electrical loads. Closed all other windows, bath vent and cabin door. Opened the Maxx Air vent fully. Using my Victron Connect app, I could watch the current draw from the fan. A higher amp draw means the fan is working harder. Other than the sound changes, that is the only way I could think of to quantify the effects. Note: the amp reading includes other operating devices, the fan uses less by itself. Fan at 100%, Window open, no filter 4.3 amps. Window closed, no filter 4.4 amps. Window open, filter installed 4.3 amps Fan at 50% Window open, no filter 2.0 amps Window closed, no filter 2.05 ? amps Window open, filter installed 2.0 amps The fan obviously struggled a LOT at 100% with everything closed, which you would expect. At half speed it is not so obvious. Try it sometime with your trailer….. The difference between with and without the filter is negligible, meaning the fan should not be stressed by the restriction. I could feel air coming in through the filter element, and nothing around the perimeter. Other than testing it in a wildfire smoke plume, I don’t know any other way to see if it works. I plan to seal two more windows and carry a total of three filters during my warm weather trips, that should really help, along with running my Honeywell HEPA filter. I am pleased, and I will update this thread later in the summer. John Davies Spokane WA

Step 2 Trimming the filter I used a 25” long filter, because that is what goes in my home furnace. It fits OK but a 24” one would be better. These are high quality filters at a really good price. Nordic Pure 16x24x1 MERV 12 Pleated AC Furnace Air Filters 6 Pack Because you added a rubber seal in the corner, the filter hits it and won’t slide all the way to the end of the cavity. There was 3/4” gap on mine. Trim away the two offending corners, making sure that you don’t remove them entirely or the frame will be weak there. Use a razor knife and then CAREFULLY trim away the steel wires with some small cutters. If you are not careful they will make you bleed. Push any sticky-out bits inside so you won’t get poked. This is how it should look from the outside: And on the inside, the filter clears the seal in the two corners. The screen slides easily. John Davies Spokane WA

See this related thread for some initial ideas and comments. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5711-add-a-dust-smoke-filter-to-a-window-anybody-done-it-ideas-welcome/ Step 1 Seal the gap. First, you need to seal the 1/4” gap between the window frame and the blind frame. 1/4” doesn’t sound like a big deal, but considering that is a 10 foot perimeter, it is a significant air leak, about 6 square inches! I chose this seal, 10 feet is just enough for one big LE2 window. Sealing the gap stops any unfiltered air from escaping that way, and in winter it will reduce cold air leakage. Frost King V27WA, White EPDM Rubber Self-Stick Weatherseal Tape, D-Section, 9/16" W, 5/16" T, 10 ft L, You need a 1/4” hole punch to make holes to go around the window screws, I already had one, but this would work: Punch the holes one by one for each section. Mark the location of each screw head by pushing hard on the seal, it will leave a clear imprint on the back side. Mark the SIDE of the seal with Sharpie (so you can still see where to put the punch). With a wooden backer board, punch a hole. Because of the adhesive, the punched-out part will try to clog up the punch, remove each one with a small tool. Once all the holes for a section are punched, install that piece and trim the end to clear the next clip. It helps to not peel off all the backing paper until you are ready for to set the last few inches in place. The seal should line up with the OUTSIDE of the window frame. Finish installing all sections, it took just under 10 feet on mine. If you have a wallpaper roller you can roll the rubber down hard, otherwise finger pressure is fine. Since I had a little left, I added two small sections to the bottom of the BLIND frame to help support the paper filter frame. More to follow. John Davies Spokane WA

YES to this: I am glad to see an OEM manufacturer using this cool system. I wish it would be an Ollie option. You can tell that is a rushed prototype trailer, they did not even spray a little gloss black paint on that square reinforcing tube. And there does not appear to be any bedding compound or at least some sealer around the outside where the steel contacts the aluminum frame…..😳Bad. John Davies Spokane WA

This is in no way original, pics have been posted here a few times over the years, but I finally got around to doing this and thought this cool and easy mod needed a “home” thread. I can’t recall who posted the original pics, but thank you! This provides protection against a strong and unexpected wind gust, which might possibly break the OEM hold open bar or pop its rivets out of the fiberglass. I have never liked that design, the marine latch works fine inside a boat to hold open an inside door, but it is not suitable at all for windy conditions. The yellow bungee is a 48” one from this assortment package: …. SmartStraps The stainless snap hook (carabiner): …. 3/16” Stainless Snap Hook 5 pack The bungee has a scratch proof plastic hook at each end, it won’t scratch anything when looped around the inside handle. The reviews are mixed, some buyers say it doesn’t last under constant UV exposure. I have never used these outside, so I can’t comment on that. I do like the big plastic hooks, they are way less dangerous than those little steel ones, which can remove an eye. The front strap is a home-built one from woven paracord, with a big loop in one end and a small one to capture the snap hook. The big loop goes around the jack body and then the other end feeds through it. It is about 24” long end to end. It touches the doghouse lightly, but any motion is linear at the bungee cord, the strap does not actually move at all. This is one reason I didn’t just use two bungees, I did not want the gelcoat to be scuffed. (You could eliminate the front strap and just connect the front bungee hook to the doghouse cover hold-down, but in that case it will chafe on the hull. This setup provides about 3” of clearance there.) If you want an off the shelf strap, with no steel parts, these would work fine: …. Race Driven Tie Down Straps. They would not look as sexy 😁 If you have just the screen door closed and want to close the outer one, you can just unhook the cord from the handle and swing the door closed. You don’t have to go outside in your pajamas to unhook the OEM hold open bar. The bungee will launch toward the ground behind the tow vehicle, but the front cord and steel hook will not go flying. John Davies Spokane WA

You would have to remove and cap the big 3” tank drain under the front dinette seat on an LE2, and add a separate drain line. the existing setup combines both black and grey lines to a common outlet, so the contents intermix. There is no way to get “clean” water out of the black tank via the outside port. But you also have to remove/ cap the black tank vent and install an overflow port and hose, to separate the systems completely. If you were going to go to all that trouble it would be simple enough to install a 1/2” pex line to the fresh tank, with an easily accessible ball valve, to gravity drain into an empty fresh tank. John Davies Spokane WA

What do you mean by comparable? Phil Wood waterproof grease has been around for decades, the recipe is secret but it is petroleum based. It is used on bicycle ball and roller bearings mostly, where it excels at staying put in extreme conditions (doesn’t wash out). CV-2 is a full synthetic, I think it is better but the main reason I would choose it over PW is you can’t buy that grease in containers larger than 3 ounces. Plus the price per ounce of of PW is way way higher. BTW I carry my hitch spares and tools in a steel ammo can, there is a 3 ounce tube of Phil Wood grease at the very top, I put a smear on the ball every other time I connect. I do like it. I also carry a can of brake cleaner to remove it from the ball and my finger…. John Davies Spokane WA

That is the first time I recall seeing the phrase “sticky wicket” here….. I am amused. I use it every now and then, my dad was a Yorkshireman. And my daughter has whole heartedly adopted many English slang terms, especially stuff from Monty Python. Thanks, that made my day. If I do ever install a DC compressor fridge I will add an extra 100 amp hour lithium battery to handle the load. I have 200 now, which is plenty for the time being. John Davies Spokane WA

routlaw, thanks for commenting. I agree, this heater is in no way suitable as a primary heat source for cold weather camping in Montana. My intended use is supplemental “soft” heat to reduce furnace cycling and to add some extra warmth to the front of the trailer, or as a solo heat source on chilly days in place of the furnace. Dead silent, no jet engine sounds directly under the bed or from an AC heat strip fan. Obviously, only while plugged into some power source…… I think this would be attractive to a lot of owners, but I still am interested in hearing opinions, both positive and negative. So many of the little portable electric heaters are garbage. John Davies Spokane WA

This is what they said about RV use. “All of our units come with a locking bar screw, which prevents the unit from moving from its permanent place once it is installed. This safety feature is specifically design for RVs and other kinds of mobile homes.” John Davies Spokane WA

I am glad you are excited about your new Ollie, and it will certainly go into tighter campgrounds with less worry about dragging against trees, or against cars in a crowded urban parking lot, or along smooth groomed gravel roads, but I hope that statement was hyperbole, because the LE2 is in no way “trail rated”, in spite of the off-road adventures advertising, which I believe is more than a little deceptive. The baby Ollie OTH could be a decent off-roader with some inexpensive upgrades….. John Davies Spokane WA

No fan, no moving parts or filters, no radiant effect, it is purely convective. Cool air goes in the bottom, warms up around the internal plates and vents naturally out the top. So it might need a little air mover like my Caframo fan to help it circulate around the cabin when people are inside. I do think it would help keep the cold front of the trailer a little cozier if the mirror door were held open. It would not be effective in preventing plumbing from freezing. It is far too tall (23”) to fit under a bed, and it would cook the person lying there or perhaps cause it to overheat. It needs at least 6 inches at the bottom and more on top for free air flow.. I did send them an email about RV use, I will post their response. John Davies Spokane WA

I have been trying to come up with a simple back-up heater, the portables all seem to be problematic and they can be in the way for both storage and when in use. At night they are a tripping hazard. This heater mounts to the wall, and it will just fit on the entry wall of an LE2 in front of the fridge. It is a slim 2.2 inches deep so it would not stick out enough to be in the way. The thermostat is mounted on top, so no extra control wires are needed. https://www.eheat.com/envi-120v-plug-in-electric-panel-wall-heater-2nd-generation/ Manual: https://www.eheat.com/content/Envi-Owners-Manual.pdf It would require an outlet to be installed low on that wall, or alternately run the cord internally up to the microwave outlet. I would prefer the former, you could remove the heater entirely in summer when not needed, the two mounting clips would remain visible. The retractable cord is 6 ft long, any excess stows in the lower compartment. I do NOT know how strong this setup is for RV use. It might need additional fasteners. I am going to email them to ask. I think it would be a great supplement for cool weather or long term storage, when you are connected to shore power but don’t want to run the furnace all the time, or the noisy heat strip in the overheat AC unit, if you have one. (My Atwood Air Command does not have one.). “Can the envi heater be left on for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week? Yes, envi wall mounted heaters are constructed in such a way that they can be left on indefinitely if needed. High energy heaters are typically oversized for most rooms and are ineffective in circulating warm air evenly around a room. As a result the room develops hot and cold areas. In contrast, envi wall mounted heaters are efficient, low energy heaters that, due to their low operating costs, and robust construction, can be left on for long periods of time heating rooms in a softer, more sustained manner.” That is a big deal for me, portable heaters in general (especially the cheap ones) are not safe and they don’t recommend leaving them on unattended. I am tempted to order one anyway, and if it won’t work on “Mouse” I will install it in by master bathroom, which could use a little more heat. Any comments? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

JRK, I think a 5.7 Land Cruiser would be a terrific match for an Elite 1, especially if you are traveling solo. The towing mileage will not be much different from your Taco, but it will have much more reserves of power and payload. And it will be much more luxurious on those long days. Unfortunately Land Cruisers are no longer going to be available in the USA, so prices are climbing rapidly. Get one while you can, in a few years the price of a nice used one will be really steep. I am the fourth owner of my 2013 and it is just about to hit 145,000 miles. It has no squeaks or rattles, it drives and feels like new. The interior looks very fresh. These trucks are great choice for a Toyota lover who understands how and why they are made the way they are. Or were made….😢 John Davies Spokane WA

Well, it does come with a few standard features the Ollie does not, like a rear receiver (simple weld-on the rear steel bumper?), but it only comes with a single 12 v AGM, and a whole bunch of options. I specced out their 21C using their Build page, picking a mid range of options similar to my hull. The base US$29k price went up to US$40k and they did not give ANY weight info. AC is not standard, nor is any kind of chassis/ floor insulation. I find it interesting that they include mudflaps on the base model, and they have an option for a composting toilet with a black tank and plumbing delete, Oliver won’t delete those parts….. I guess that is differences in code between Canada and the USA.. After the 121 degree F record set in BC last week, https://www.cbsnews.com/news/lytton-fire-canada-british-columbia-evacuations/#app maybe they will make AC standard😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Mattnan, I am glad you have a good Toyota mechanic, they are not easy to find. My 2013 fluid had 140,000 miles and had never been changed, about 10,000 of that was towing. It was not burned (no nasty odor) but it was very very discolored. There was a lot of super fine metal fuzz on the three oil pan magnets, which is normal (break-in wear). The Toyota semi-synthetic ATF is fine, but very expensive, and won’t cause any issues, but a compatible full synthetic ATF with a full system flush is better. You have to get all 12 quarts out, not just the 5 that a filter change (dropping the pan) requires. I don’t understand why Toyota doesn’t require regular changes, the fluid gets really stressed. I did use OEM filter, all new replacement pan screws, pan gasket, orings and crush washers. If Toyota had a branded full synthetic I might have chosen to use that. John Davies Spokane WA

I recall seeing you but it took your comment to bring that back. I was pretty dazed after a vey late afternoon delivery and highway construction that had a major detour through twisty back roads….. John Davies Spokane WA

Mattnan, thanks, that is interesting. My 2013 LC 200 doesn’t have a Tow Haul mode at all, it does have a Power switch which raises and quickens the shift points. Following the manual I turn that on and set the shifter to fourth, then downshift manually if it needs help in really steep terrain. I do have slightly oversized tires. I sometimes put it in fifth on long gradual downhills, that is the only situation where it will stay in that gear. I have an OBD2 Scangauge reader so I can watch the transmission oil temps of both the torque converter and the oil pan. It is interesting to see the converter temp spike way up when it unlocks. Have you ever changed the transmission filter and fluid? if not you should, and use a full synthetic. If you are handy and there are no rusted pan bolts 😳 a reasonably skilled home mechanic can do a full flush easily. I did mine six months back, and I had to drill out three rusted busted bolts. Not at all fun. You do need either an OBD2 reader that will measure transmission pan temperature, or an infrared thermometer, to adjust the fluid level correctly. John Davies Spokane WA

What gear is that? And what Oliver model? With my Land Cruiser six speed and 3.90 axles, I tow in fourth and that is about 2500 rpm. It won’t stay in fifth without downshifting at every slight hill. Your Tundra has much lower gearing (4.30) so fifth might be fine, but I think Toyota recommends towing in fourth, not the overdrive gears. The engine doesn’t make power down low, the torque peak on my truck is 2800 rpm. As long as it holds the selected gear without constant shifting, no worries. Otherwise it really heats up the transmission fluid, which is a big no-no.. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

The specs are remarkably similar, except it is obviously a lot lighter than an LE2, in spite of its steel frame. Single wall hull and a lot less standard equipment…. https://escapetrailer.com/the-23-escape/ I think the exterior is quite attractive. I do not like the forward bed, though the north/south Queen option is tempting. I like to look at something other than the inside of the trailer. (I sleep head to front so I can see out the three back windows.) The split bathroom (toilet one side, shower on the other) is very odd but it might work fine. They lost floor space by rotating the bed 90 degrees. And HEY it has mudflaps, is that a Canadian requirement? John Davies Spokane WA

In case somebody doesn’t know what is going on…. I really like that Escape mini fiver in concept, but who wants to give up 75% of his in bed storage when the trailer storage volume and payload is so limited? Not me. And what happened to the second axle in that bottom pic? I thought all of these were tandems. That is a really lame magazine, full of hastily researched cut and paste information - not enough content and too many full page pictures. The Aqua-Hot article (hydronic heating) has a glaring mistake, they claim it uses the same non-toxic antifreeze as your engine’s radiator and that you use for winterization of the plumbing. They did say in that article that the RV industry is “transitioning away from propane”. Is that correct? If so, that is the first I have heard of that welcome trend. John Davies Spokane WA