John E Davies

You would have to remove and cap the big 3” tank drain under the front dinette seat on an LE2, and add a separate drain line. the existing setup combines both black and grey lines to a common outlet, so the contents intermix. There is no way to get “clean” water out of the black tank via the outside port. But you also have to remove/ cap the black tank vent and install an overflow port and hose, to separate the systems completely. If you were going to go to all that trouble it would be simple enough to install a 1/2” pex line to the fresh tank, with an easily accessible ball valve, to gravity drain into an empty fresh tank. John Davies Spokane WA

What do you mean by comparable? Phil Wood waterproof grease has been around for decades, the recipe is secret but it is petroleum based. It is used on bicycle ball and roller bearings mostly, where it excels at staying put in extreme conditions (doesn’t wash out). CV-2 is a full synthetic, I think it is better but the main reason I would choose it over PW is you can’t buy that grease in containers larger than 3 ounces. Plus the price per ounce of of PW is way way higher. BTW I carry my hitch spares and tools in a steel ammo can, there is a 3 ounce tube of Phil Wood grease at the very top, I put a smear on the ball every other time I connect. I do like it. I also carry a can of brake cleaner to remove it from the ball and my finger…. John Davies Spokane WA

That is the first time I recall seeing the phrase “sticky wicket” here….. I am amused. I use it every now and then, my dad was a Yorkshireman. And my daughter has whole heartedly adopted many English slang terms, especially stuff from Monty Python. Thanks, that made my day. If I do ever install a DC compressor fridge I will add an extra 100 amp hour lithium battery to handle the load. I have 200 now, which is plenty for the time being. John Davies Spokane WA

routlaw, thanks for commenting. I agree, this heater is in no way suitable as a primary heat source for cold weather camping in Montana. My intended use is supplemental “soft” heat to reduce furnace cycling and to add some extra warmth to the front of the trailer, or as a solo heat source on chilly days in place of the furnace. Dead silent, no jet engine sounds directly under the bed or from an AC heat strip fan. Obviously, only while plugged into some power source…… I think this would be attractive to a lot of owners, but I still am interested in hearing opinions, both positive and negative. So many of the little portable electric heaters are garbage. John Davies Spokane WA

This is what they said about RV use. “All of our units come with a locking bar screw, which prevents the unit from moving from its permanent place once it is installed. This safety feature is specifically design for RVs and other kinds of mobile homes.” John Davies Spokane WA

I am glad you are excited about your new Ollie, and it will certainly go into tighter campgrounds with less worry about dragging against trees, or against cars in a crowded urban parking lot, or along smooth groomed gravel roads, but I hope that statement was hyperbole, because the LE2 is in no way “trail rated”, in spite of the off-road adventures advertising, which I believe is more than a little deceptive. The baby Ollie OTH could be a decent off-roader with some inexpensive upgrades….. John Davies Spokane WA

No fan, no moving parts or filters, no radiant effect, it is purely convective. Cool air goes in the bottom, warms up around the internal plates and vents naturally out the top. So it might need a little air mover like my Caframo fan to help it circulate around the cabin when people are inside. I do think it would help keep the cold front of the trailer a little cozier if the mirror door were held open. It would not be effective in preventing plumbing from freezing. It is far too tall (23”) to fit under a bed, and it would cook the person lying there or perhaps cause it to overheat. It needs at least 6 inches at the bottom and more on top for free air flow.. I did send them an email about RV use, I will post their response. John Davies Spokane WA

I have been trying to come up with a simple back-up heater, the portables all seem to be problematic and they can be in the way for both storage and when in use. At night they are a tripping hazard. This heater mounts to the wall, and it will just fit on the entry wall of an LE2 in front of the fridge. It is a slim 2.2 inches deep so it would not stick out enough to be in the way. The thermostat is mounted on top, so no extra control wires are needed. https://www.eheat.com/envi-120v-plug-in-electric-panel-wall-heater-2nd-generation/ Manual: https://www.eheat.com/content/Envi-Owners-Manual.pdf It would require an outlet to be installed low on that wall, or alternately run the cord internally up to the microwave outlet. I would prefer the former, you could remove the heater entirely in summer when not needed, the two mounting clips would remain visible. The retractable cord is 6 ft long, any excess stows in the lower compartment. I do NOT know how strong this setup is for RV use. It might need additional fasteners. I am going to email them to ask. I think it would be a great supplement for cool weather or long term storage, when you are connected to shore power but don’t want to run the furnace all the time, or the noisy heat strip in the overheat AC unit, if you have one. (My Atwood Air Command does not have one.). “Can the envi heater be left on for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week? Yes, envi wall mounted heaters are constructed in such a way that they can be left on indefinitely if needed. High energy heaters are typically oversized for most rooms and are ineffective in circulating warm air evenly around a room. As a result the room develops hot and cold areas. In contrast, envi wall mounted heaters are efficient, low energy heaters that, due to their low operating costs, and robust construction, can be left on for long periods of time heating rooms in a softer, more sustained manner.” That is a big deal for me, portable heaters in general (especially the cheap ones) are not safe and they don’t recommend leaving them on unattended. I am tempted to order one anyway, and if it won’t work on “Mouse” I will install it in by master bathroom, which could use a little more heat. Any comments? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

JRK, I think a 5.7 Land Cruiser would be a terrific match for an Elite 1, especially if you are traveling solo. The towing mileage will not be much different from your Taco, but it will have much more reserves of power and payload. And it will be much more luxurious on those long days. Unfortunately Land Cruisers are no longer going to be available in the USA, so prices are climbing rapidly. Get one while you can, in a few years the price of a nice used one will be really steep. I am the fourth owner of my 2013 and it is just about to hit 145,000 miles. It has no squeaks or rattles, it drives and feels like new. The interior looks very fresh. These trucks are great choice for a Toyota lover who understands how and why they are made the way they are. Or were made….😢 John Davies Spokane WA

Well, it does come with a few standard features the Ollie does not, like a rear receiver (simple weld-on the rear steel bumper?), but it only comes with a single 12 v AGM, and a whole bunch of options. I specced out their 21C using their Build page, picking a mid range of options similar to my hull. The base US$29k price went up to US$40k and they did not give ANY weight info. AC is not standard, nor is any kind of chassis/ floor insulation. I find it interesting that they include mudflaps on the base model, and they have an option for a composting toilet with a black tank and plumbing delete, Oliver won’t delete those parts….. I guess that is differences in code between Canada and the USA.. After the 121 degree F record set in BC last week, https://www.cbsnews.com/news/lytton-fire-canada-british-columbia-evacuations/#app maybe they will make AC standard😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Mattnan, I am glad you have a good Toyota mechanic, they are not easy to find. My 2013 fluid had 140,000 miles and had never been changed, about 10,000 of that was towing. It was not burned (no nasty odor) but it was very very discolored. There was a lot of super fine metal fuzz on the three oil pan magnets, which is normal (break-in wear). The Toyota semi-synthetic ATF is fine, but very expensive, and won’t cause any issues, but a compatible full synthetic ATF with a full system flush is better. You have to get all 12 quarts out, not just the 5 that a filter change (dropping the pan) requires. I don’t understand why Toyota doesn’t require regular changes, the fluid gets really stressed. I did use OEM filter, all new replacement pan screws, pan gasket, orings and crush washers. If Toyota had a branded full synthetic I might have chosen to use that. John Davies Spokane WA

I recall seeing you but it took your comment to bring that back. I was pretty dazed after a vey late afternoon delivery and highway construction that had a major detour through twisty back roads….. John Davies Spokane WA

Mattnan, thanks, that is interesting. My 2013 LC 200 doesn’t have a Tow Haul mode at all, it does have a Power switch which raises and quickens the shift points. Following the manual I turn that on and set the shifter to fourth, then downshift manually if it needs help in really steep terrain. I do have slightly oversized tires. I sometimes put it in fifth on long gradual downhills, that is the only situation where it will stay in that gear. I have an OBD2 Scangauge reader so I can watch the transmission oil temps of both the torque converter and the oil pan. It is interesting to see the converter temp spike way up when it unlocks. Have you ever changed the transmission filter and fluid? if not you should, and use a full synthetic. If you are handy and there are no rusted pan bolts 😳 a reasonably skilled home mechanic can do a full flush easily. I did mine six months back, and I had to drill out three rusted busted bolts. Not at all fun. You do need either an OBD2 reader that will measure transmission pan temperature, or an infrared thermometer, to adjust the fluid level correctly. John Davies Spokane WA

What gear is that? And what Oliver model? With my Land Cruiser six speed and 3.90 axles, I tow in fourth and that is about 2500 rpm. It won’t stay in fifth without downshifting at every slight hill. Your Tundra has much lower gearing (4.30) so fifth might be fine, but I think Toyota recommends towing in fourth, not the overdrive gears. The engine doesn’t make power down low, the torque peak on my truck is 2800 rpm. As long as it holds the selected gear without constant shifting, no worries. Otherwise it really heats up the transmission fluid, which is a big no-no.. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

The specs are remarkably similar, except it is obviously a lot lighter than an LE2, in spite of its steel frame. Single wall hull and a lot less standard equipment…. https://escapetrailer.com/the-23-escape/ I think the exterior is quite attractive. I do not like the forward bed, though the north/south Queen option is tempting. I like to look at something other than the inside of the trailer. (I sleep head to front so I can see out the three back windows.) The split bathroom (toilet one side, shower on the other) is very odd but it might work fine. They lost floor space by rotating the bed 90 degrees. And HEY it has mudflaps, is that a Canadian requirement? John Davies Spokane WA

In case somebody doesn’t know what is going on…. I really like that Escape mini fiver in concept, but who wants to give up 75% of his in bed storage when the trailer storage volume and payload is so limited? Not me. And what happened to the second axle in that bottom pic? I thought all of these were tandems. That is a really lame magazine, full of hastily researched cut and paste information - not enough content and too many full page pictures. The Aqua-Hot article (hydronic heating) has a glaring mistake, they claim it uses the same non-toxic antifreeze as your engine’s radiator and that you use for winterization of the plumbing. They did say in that article that the RV industry is “transitioning away from propane”. Is that correct? If so, that is the first I have heard of that welcome trend. John Davies Spokane WA

Fortunately I rarely use dump stations and when do, I try to time it so nobody else is around. I never ever top up my fresh water there. That is so very gross. People are such idiots. Our first night in “Mouse” was at the local RV park outside of Howenwald, I can’t recall the name at the moment, and the fresh water tap was buried under ground in the same nasty hole as the sewer connection 😳 That got my attention. I did not connect either hose that night. Are there not building codes there? John Davies Spokane WA

I am not sure if Oliver will in the near future continue to install the old style “legacy” Zamp panels, but they are very heavy, have lots of drag and are super ugly - dorky IMHO and they ruin the lines of a gorgeous hull. If I were to choose equipment for a new installation it would most likely be the new Obsidian panels. They are very expen$ive…. I would prefer flexible ones bonded tightly to the roof but they have their own set of issues like scratching and cooking the underlying surface. https://www.zampsolar.com/pages/obsidian-series-solar-panels The new panels have much better connectors than the horrible SAE reverse polarity things they use in the old panels, but the new ones are still non-standard, which continues to perplex me. IMHO of course, I am pretty picky about how I spend money. I do think you will eventually end up with roof solar, for Western camping that is a great help. Maybe in a year or two, after the incredible RV Sales Rush has ended, those Obsidians will be cheaper. And in stock to purchase😬 John Davies Spokane WA

While connecting a portable solar panel to the 7 pin connecter does work, it is not at ALL ideal, the distance back to the batteries is FAR too great. And on my Hull 218 the ground wire was undersized for part of the way, 14 AWG instead of 12. There has to be a two way path for the current, it doesn’t matter if there is a big charge wire if the ground is too small. You need to plug a portable one in as close as possible to the batteries. Use large wires (10 AWG at least) and keep them short. And mount the controller remotely, close to or inside the trailer, not on the panel itself, if you have lithiums, or the charging will be inadequate. My roof panels have been trouble free after the initial issue with the knobs falling off. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2066-how-to-install-safeties-on-the-solar-panel-mount-knobs-important/ John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for posting, FYI the link on the first line of the post is not working, however the one lower down is fine. John Davies Spokane WA

Let’s not forget that you should make a correction to “today’s” dollars to be meaningful. John Davies Spokane WA

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-9737581/Gas-stations-running-fuel-ahead-holiday-weekend-amid-truck-driver-shortage.html I am staying inside my air conditioned home for a while (110 degrees predicted today) but I will be doing a trip just after the 4th, but it is a local one that doesn’t require much fuel…. Refill before it gets much below 1/2 unless you have a monster cruising range. Stay cool, stay safe, don’t run out of gas! John Davies Spokane WA

This issue depends a WHOLE lot on where you live and camp. Around the arid parts of the West it simply isn’t a worry because the humidity is so low outside. However, you should never button everything up tight.There are a dozen 1/2” moisture drain holes in the belly of an LE2 which are always seeping in some fresh air. But even on super cold or super hot days you should have some sort of forced or convective ventilation operating to extract moisture. Cracking a roof vent and a side window is enough. If you live where it rains often, or camp in the dead of winter, this is a lot harder to do. For sure, if you are showering or boiling a pot of water, there should be a fan running. And stop breathing, that will eliminate a lot of moisture……😬 John Davies Spokane WA

There is no reason that it won’t work fine, you can use Andersen’s fit guide to calculate how much drop you will need, they sell these kits with a 4” and 8” drop/ rise. And it is possible to cut off excess material if it sticks down (or up) further than you like. I removed a couple of inches with a hand hacksaw from my 4” drop setup…. it is just mild steel. http://download25.mediafire.com/pp4s6bkqjheg/fhaushj8nvexsvx/WD+Hitch+Fitment+Guide+2021.pdf If you do need the 8” version you should coordinate with Service to make sure they have one when you take delivery. My bet is the 4” will be fine. I like your Xterra, it looks very capable. John Davies Spokane WA

He was trying to make a sale, buyer beware! A fully loaded LE2 is 7000 pounds. The earlier hulls tend to be lighter than current models because they came with more options (less standard equipment) so you might encounter a stripped down one that is lighter than average. But “fully loaded” means “at gross weight” (aka GVWR) - so regardless of the dry weight a fully loaded trailer will always be 7000… it is the payload that varies. Oliver claims the 2022 LE2 is “4900 lbs dry”, but options like four big lead acid batteries, solar panels and the extra awning really stack on the extra weight. My moderately optioned 2017 had an “as delivered” dry weight of 5140. It is very easy to tell by the payload sticker if a seller is trying to blow smoke up your posterior. John Davies Spokane WA