John E Davies

So, that desiccant pack was already in there? If so, that is interesting and unexpected….. it looks as if there is plenty of extra space for a couple of more. Thanks for the pics. John Davies Spokane WA

A side "man door" is excellent, and it is a cost saver for the owners, long term. Completely opening and closing an RV door electrically creates a whole lot of cycles, leading to spring failure, which is fairly costly to repair. I open mine by hand about seven feet when I just need to walk through, it is very easy to do, and I very rarely open the door up to its full 14 foot height. There is an electrically operated deadbolt you have to retract manually, then pull the Big Red Handle to disengage the drivetrain at the top. Both are at eye height on the wall, and very easy to find and operate. John Davies Spokane WA

If you live in a humid climate, carefully use a hair dryer or heat lamp for a while to force out any moist air immediately before you reassemble. It is really hard to completely dry out stuff if the air has 80 or 100% humidity. If there is room inside, insert one or two small silica gel desiccant packs. Post some pics please, I have never seen inside one of these. I have a Garmin BC30 and it is permanently sealed, I think. The video quality is garbage, but it hasn’t fogged. John Davies Spokane WA

That is a great spot, woohoo! Congrats! Do you mind sharing what your long term rate is, and also what would be a typical amount? Is there any clause allowing you to break or transfer the lease and get most of your money back in case of emergency ? That is even wider than a standard RV garage, my attached one is 16x42 feet, that is measured by the OUTSIDE of the wall framing, so it is a little deceiving and I did not discover that until after moving in 😤. I would love a little extra width, but you should have plenty of room to get some other stuff in there and still have walking room to reach both sides of your Ollie and to maybe add some big industrial shelving. I am guessing that those ceiling lights are LED, but are they soft white (yellow)? If so, will they let you pay for and have them install a set of 4000k LEDs? That will add a whole lot more whiter illumination, and make doing stuff in the winter, with the door down, a lot more pleasant. John Davies Spokane WA

I love that generation of MDX, we had a 2010 TL with that engine and SH-AWD. And a six speed manual transmission, we had to sell it because my wife’s left knee blew out. We have been thinking about getting an MDX, sort of, maybe. These are absolutely wonderful vehicles, and really bulletproof as long as you are diligent about doing the required maintenance. I would definitely give it a try, the LE1 should be fine as long as you don’t go cargo crazy. I found this thread that will answer your questions…. https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f10/towing-with-2008-mdx-9867.html It looks like you will need the typical accessories if they are not already installed, 7 pin wiring, brake controller, 5000 pound rated 2” receiver, and a transmission cooler. I don’t know about a WD hitch, that would be something to research, what are the tongue weight limitations? How many miles on it? Considering its age, It needs fresh shocks and new fluids, especially the transmission fluid and differentials, and do the timing belt and valve adjustment if they are due. Brakes, obviously. I can’t answer your question about braking, that will take some research, but I would think using your gears for engine braking would be plenty adequate. The trailer brakes are an assist, but you can literally burn them up on a long mountain descent if you abuse them and don’t let them cool. Of course, then you could install disk brakes, no worries then! The LE1 has a 5000 pound rated axle and 12 inch brakes, which are quite large for the trailer size. (The LE2 has two sets of 10”.) One thing you can do if you are running into your payload limit is remove and store the third row seats, for sure, and possibly the second row ones. That will give you a fair bit of extra weight capacity, plus lots more actual volume. It is not a huge cargo area to start with…. I don’t have any idea what they weigh, but the ones in my Land Cruiser are really heavy, 70 pounds for the two in the third row. The middle ones are even heavier. I just removed the left one to install a fridge, and I can barely pick up that sucker by myself. Good luck, if you do this, please post pics. I would be very interested to see the setup. John Davies Spokane WA

What is your definition of offroad? If you mean maintained gravel, potholed forest or ranch roads, no worries if you stay really slow, but an LE2 is not suitable for anything more intense. There is virtually no suspension travel…. The LE1 is better, especially with a SOA lift. Both are severely limited by the hitch design, and obviously the gelcoat is susceptible to scarring or worse. Abuse would not be covered by warranty, that would include damage from dragging over rock ledges or colliding with hard objects. Both would be obvious by inspection and would be easy for a shop to spot. I have a Yakima Skybox, it says “warranty void if taken offroad.” But how would they ever know? I think that is just a warning that it might break if abused….. just like your Ollie. FYI, taking an RV truly offroad is a big risk, your insurance is 100% void if it leaves maintained roads, and retrieval by a tow company becomes exponentially more costly. AAA won’t pay for it, unless it is within a few feet of a road, the truck has to be able to get to you. A “stuck” on the White Rim Road in Canyonlands will cost you a minimum of $1000 for professional services.. Especially if you ignore the No Trailers signs. PS, add your trailer and tow vehicle info to your signature, that makes things better…. I see by your home page pic that you have a Gladiator Rubicon, is that going to be your TV? John Davies Spokane WA

Are you sure it is not a gas issue? I would try borrowing another bottle filled with fresh “local” propane and test that, before I got too concerned about modifying settings. The jet may be slightly blocked, propane has lots of impurities that build up a crusty deposit, though generally that takes a few years. You can have the jet changed for a smaller one, but then it will then run lean (hot) at lower elevations. That would be a last resort IMHO. My Dometic has been reliable to 10,000 feet. I hate it, but that has nothing to do with how it operates….. I do think it is prudent to carry a DC compressor fridge, that gives you an emergency backup, and also a place to store overflow purchases from the grocery store until you have the extra room for them inside the trailer. My medium sized ARB fridge uses a fifth of the amp hours the 3 Way uses on on DC power. I power it from the trailer when parked, using an extension cable coming off the side solar port. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks, are you confident about finding premium gas everywhere? There are occasional small town gas pumps even in Washington that only carry regular and diesel. I know a lot of truck engines say “recommend premium” but they will adjust for lower octane with a slight reduction in power. The Toyota 5.7 engine is noticeably snappier with mid range ethanol free and gets 10% better mpgs, but not enough for me to seek it out and pay the much higher price…. We are going to attempt the Canada border crossing on Tuesday if our Covid tests come back negative, but we have decided that four crossings would be pushing our luck, so we are going to Whitehorse and poke around there, then u-turn. And we will not attempt the Dempster at all. Another place you probably would not find premium… John Davies Spokane WA

That might have had me turning back, I would be concerned about getting trapped with no way to swing wide to maneuver, but maybe the picture makes it look tighter. Did you get any brush stripes on the truck or trailer? That is one of my few gripes about gelcoat…., The second responsibility of a copilot is to take pics of the Ollie going through the tight spots😬. John Davies Spokane WA

If you ship, be sure to get it shrink wrapped and put on a flat bed truck. There is an awful lot of really nasty chemicals between your place and Tennessee in mid winter, that can destroy the finish on your aluminum frame. I personally would not do it….. You could take delivery in person, then after three days in TN checking all the systems, take the southern route through TX, and then up I-5. If you don’t rush it, and wait for systems to pass, and the roads to dry, you should have no major trouble. Message Susan - https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/profile/3706-ray-and-susan-huff/ They towed their Ollie back to SW Oregon in December. Successfully. John Davies Spokane WA

Oliver used to say, no worries, lift the tires completely off the ground, then the lawyers stepped in and suddenly it was “stabilize only”. The same thing happened with the generator tray, it suddenly became a cargo tray - “You’ll gas yourself!”…. Use your common sense, nothing has changed about how the jacks are installed. Just keep everybody out from under the axles and frame, so if something should fail, it won’t kill you. When taking off wheels, consider adding four low jack stands to support the axles, so the shackles do not flip over center. That can be problematic to correct. These work well. (Never actually jack the trailer from the axles.) https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/jack-stands/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html I did not say this, forget I said this. Do not do this…… Never take a risk. You will shoot your eye out! “Unjust laws exist; shall we be content to obey them, or shall we endeavor to amend them, and obey them until we have succeeded, or shall we transgress them at once?” Henry David Thoreau John Davies Spokane WA

I am not referring to member Overland, though I bet he has spent even more than I have on his Ollie and Raptor, but to the huge financial hole you dig for yourself when you transform an off-the-shelf truck into a capable overlanding/ adventure vehicle. It is way more costly than doing the same for a motorcycle, that term is "fully farkled" F.A.R.K.L.E. -- Fancy Accessory Really Kool Likely Expensive I keep track of everything I do to "Mouse" in a road travel log/ service spreadsheet ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2774-how-to-davies-rv-travel-log-service-inventory-spreadsheet-excel-numbers/ .... mostly for when the time arrives to sell him; for that I created a simple "For Sale" doc that lists everything, as it might appear in a classifieds ad. I have resisted until today in adding everything up. I knew it would be pretty high. An RV is not as bad as a boat AKA "Hole In The Water That you Throw Money Into", but still.... this excludes any labor time, it is parts only.... nor does it include any special tools or materials that were needed. If you would like to see the entire doc, for entertainment purposes, or if you would like to use it as a template to make your own sales ad, feel free: **2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II “Mouse” Hull 218 FOR SALE Info Rev 08:06:21.pages.zip FYI, I do not have any plans to sell "Mouse" any time soon, and please do not tell my wife about this thread. John Davies Spokane WA

I think this would be a great choice if it isn’t $2000+. Truma stuff is expensive and not easy to work on, and with a limited number of shops that can fix them. Parts are grossly overpriced, if you can even find a USA source, this one is in Oz…. ($0.74 conversion rate). https://www.caravansplus.com.au/appliances/hot-water-systems/truma-parts/aquago/ This sounds like an improved Air Command design, that is still a viable option for folks wanting to replace any AC. Mine has worked flawlessly for five seasons, it was installed at the factory back when they did stuff like that… oh wait, I did have a repair, drat, I forgot… the remote battery died and I had to install a new button cell this spring. That was $3 down the drain. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

It is indeed a little hidden, don’’t feel bad about that, you should explore your forum personal settings. Click your user name, top right….. then Account Settings Then Signature, add whatever info you like, even a URL to a personal site. All this stuff appears after every post you make here. In other tabs you can add or change your avitar (little picture that is beside your user name) or the pic at the top of your personal page. Most casual posters don’t bother to alter any of this. John Davies Spokane WA

That is ingenious, I hope it works well for you. I am concerned about a high pressure tank hanging so low in the center of the truck, it will most likely get damaged when you go off pavement, hopefully it will just bend its brackets... 😳. How do you plan to keep mud off the compressor cooling fins? Where did you mount the remote air filters? For $1000 I would probably look into installing an engine driven pump using a repurposed AC compressor, or just buy an off the shelf CO2 system like Powertank…. Is there some reason you chose this under frame method instead? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Yes, that is original. In your shoes I would be a little irritated that they installed an old unit. I bet Oliver does not rotate stock religiously. You put new inventory on the back of the shelf! However, I don’t think sitting in a sealed box will hurt the life span measurably, unless they keep these in a factory location near hull production, where there is a lot of airborne chemicals around….. It is exposure to some solvents that degrades or wrecks the sensor. The actual 7 year service life before it goes into its crippled “end of life” mode is determined by how long it stays powered on, which is why I think killing power to it routinely will perhaps make it function well for a longer time period. It does take three minutes to “boot up” when you turn it on each time. The red light flashes, then goes out after it warms up. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI, I added an ON/ OFF switch to my detector, partly in case of nuisance alarms, which hardly every happen, but mainly to eliminate the phantom electrical draw. A side benefit is that it should keep working a lot longer, maybe, perhaps. I flag the compartment when it is switched off, I can’t emphasize enough how critical it is to turn it on and test it before every trip. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5330-how-to-propane-co-detector-on-off-power-switch/ John Davies Spokane WA

Dust to Glory 2005 Trailer There is a sequel Dust 2 Glory, I have not seen it, it has much higher quality video (drones instead of copters) but I have heard it is a little lame. Bruce Brown also did the original On Any Sunday that kick started the dirt bike craze when I was a little bit younger…. it prompted me to sell my Norton Commando 750 Sportster and start dabbling in enduro racing in 1972…. John Davies Spokane WA

I love snorkels, I put one on my 200 last year, not so much to go fording 5 foot deep rivers, but to disguise the big crease my wife put in that fender at the grocery store .... But it gets the air intake completely up and out of the dust, and lowers the inlet air temp by a few degrees. The one on my Series 80 dropped it by up to 60 degrees, an amount you could actually feel. In the 200, it is more like 20 degrees.... Mainly it helps us find the Big White SUV in a sea of other big white SUVs in the box store parking lot... It does generate a whole lot of What The Hell Is That Thing questions. John Davies Spokane WA

Some storage facilities prohibit working on your trailer, you have to haul it away to do any maintenance or cleaning. It would be smart to study the contract. And decent inside lighting would be a big plus. One of the Ollies we looked at before buying was located inside a large UNLIT warehouse, We had to use flashlights to study the outside features, I can’t imagine doing anything constructive in those conditions…. My RV bay has bright white sheet-rocked walls and ceiling (they reflect the ambient light) , three decent sized windows facing south , and excellent LED daylight spectrum lighting. Even with the big entry door closed, it is EVENLY illuminated. My aging eyes appreciate the lack of shadows. I had a Sea Ray 250 Sundancer years ago, I stored it under an exposed but roofed RV unit with 15 amp power. That worked OK but the driveway was gravel, so it was always filthy, and I worried about collisions….. It looked great parked in front of my house but I could not store it there. John Davies Spokane WA

There are countless Web articles on “RV winter storage”, Google that term, watch some videos. Bottom line is, how much time (and money) are you willing to dedicate to keeping track of your Ollie? An uncovered commercial parking spot will require frequent visits to clear off snow, ice, or leaf accumulation and make sure everything is OK. An open but covered one with power is lots better, a fully enclosed one is WAY better (and the risk of collision damage or theft drops to near zero). A fabric cover offers protection but has its own risks and major hassles, such as making sure it and the hull are clean before use. You have to balance convenience, cost, location, drive time and security against your own preferences and worries. We had an owner here who had to drive six hours round trip to visit his trailer! It can be a tough and potentially very expensive conundrum, depending on your climate and home location. I feel sorry for owners who cannot store their Ollie at home, things are a lot tougher when it is far away... I live in a private development; of the thirty houses here, about 12 have attached, fully enclosed RV bays. Which is the main reason we picked this spot….. being able to use your Ollie as an emergency shelter during a power outage, or as a guest bedroom, or even walk naked out to your Ollie in a blizzard - if you wanted to 😳- is priceless. I don’t even bother to winterize, the temp there has never dropped below 38 degrees. Plus it saves many thousands of $ in storage and travel costs. Where are you located? It helps us to give better recommendations if you will add that info, and your tow vehicle, to a signature. John Davies Spokane WA

They will operate at very low temperatures, they just cannot be reCHARGED at those temps. Which is why you put them in a climate controlled box, or heat the cabin enough so they will accept a charge, or use a battery warming mat. If you winter camp with the water systems dry and no cabin heat, then lithiums are definitely a no go. Lead acid batteries are not good performers in these conditions, I am not sure where you got that idea….. Long Way Up was such a disappointment, but the stunning scenery made up for a lot of the lame “range anxiety” drama. “Oh look, it has finally warmed up some, now we can increase our speed to 40 mph!” Keep in mind that they were all driving prototype vehicles, including the backup Rivians. It was a huge publicity stunt. Long Way Round is definitely worth watching if you have not yet done so. Or better yet, Dust to Glory. Woohoo. John Davies Spokane WA

Have you considered putting a slightly smaller driven pulley on it, that will provide more low end boost? I assume that there is some kind of internal blow off protection to keep it from getting too high. I have no experience, but I am surprised that you are not seeing tons more low end power. Boost from a supercharger is pretty linear. I think you should put the truck on a dyno to make sure it is running as designed. I want more power but I will probably do it with gears, if at all. I need to be able to run cr@p gas. This chart doesn’t help much, can somebody post one that shows down to 2000 rpm? John Davies Spokane WA

Can you apply a UV protectant to slow down the damage? 303 seems to be the one that is most hyped, I have tried it and it seems like Armorall, I am not at all impressed. OTH this is terrific and I use it mostly as a tire dressing and to wipe down rubber and plastic parts in the engine bay to keep them looking new... It does not stay shiny and become a dust magnet like silicone based products. https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/vinyl+rubber+dressing.do?sortby=ourPicks&from=Search I highly HIGHLY recommend it, I just don’t know if it will help the keyboard cracks…. If that is due to the manufacturer’s poor design or his material choice, it may be like putting lipstick on a pig. John Davies Spokane WA

I agree that 100% pee will be a big problem. It is super easy to clean a portable tank, I let mine soak overnight at the end of the season with hot water and some of the old style discontinued Cascade dish detergent (now sold as Fryer Boil Out). The yellow hard crusty deposits vanish. I guess you could clean a permanently installed black tank and the plumbing going from the toilet to it with the same method. However there is a strong possibility that this design would screw up the tank dump valve quickly by wrecking the seals because of those hard deposits. Lots of grey water from the sink would definitely help, along with some mineral oil or (expensive) valve lube. BTW we never use the sink in the head, other than to add water to the toilet media every now and then and to shower with, we do everything else from the galley one. We welcome Ollie pioneers, do the mod, report back here and let us know how it works after a couple of camping seasons. 😃 John Davies Spokane WA