John E Davies

With just two people and a small dog, you can bring along a fair amount of gear in the truck. You do need a generator, not necessarily to run the air conditioner, but to recharge those batteries when you can’t plug into “shore power”. Unfortunately, as delivered they will NOT charge off your truck while you are towing. I believe that you are in Colorado? There are lots of terrific spots in your area that have no hookups at all, like most National Parks and Monuments. Your solar panels can do a lot, but on some grey days or in a shaded site they won’t be nearly enough. And on a blistering July day you will want to run the A/C off the generator, NOT the batteries, or they will be quickly drained. John Davies Spokane WA

A lot of LE2 owners are quite happy with this model of F150, it has good power but you will very limited in payload. Figure out how much “stuff” you want to bring along. subtract off the weight of the Andersen hitch and the trailer tongue weight, about 700 pounds together (the tongue weight varies a lot depending on trailer options). What is left is available for passengers and their gear. So with that 1555 pounds of payload, you have around 855 left. That is not a lot, but it is OK, especially for just one person or a couple. BUT if you want to bring along two more people plus their gear, it is not going to be very good at all. Any optional equipment bolted onto the truck takes away from the available payload, a canopy could be 200 pounds, for example. Offroad accessories like steel bumpers are realllly heavy. This is why people buy Heavy Duty trucks, so they can pretty much not worry at all about weight. If it fits in the bed, you can bring it. Almost…. John Davies Spokane WA

Here it is. I am not sure what that "doc" is but my iMac could open it.... I made a screen capture. The OP is mixing apples and oranges (pounds and kilograms). John Davies Spokane WA

There is no way the twin air mattress will fit, the hall width is about 2 feet. A narrow camping pad would fit perfectly. But nobody would be able to move around it, to get to the toilet for example. For scale, the “Twin” mattress shown is actually a bunk size, it is just 30” wide. It overlaps the floor by maybe 3”. Your Grand Cherokee might be OK, depending on the payload, but for four people I suspect that you will be carrying WAY too much stuff. There are a couple of young families with LE2s, but they have the little kids sleep in a tent. Take a look at one in person, that will tell you immediately if it is going to work. Or wait for the much rumored but never substantiated Legacy Elite 3. John Davies Spokane WA

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/1978-nature039s-head-composting-toilet-installation-in-an-oliver-big-thread/ There are a few other ones, but that one seems to be hanging on as the main one, as was my intention when I named it. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

Overland, is the core of the floor fiberglass or wood (like the partition wall)? If the latter, it must be sealed very well, or it will get wrecked by water intrusion from showers. I like the storage space, I never though about storing the “media” underneath. I would feel a little more comfortable with a flush fitting hatch, does water get down there, or is that even a concern? After showering I usually sluice that area pretty heavily. Thanks John Davies Spokane WA

Welcome to the forums. It depends what year 4Runner, the engine and towing specs change over time. If you think you might “hold out” for a LE2, then buy the bigger trailer and trade in the Runner on a more suitable tow vehicle, because it sounds like you might not really want the smaller one. If you had the 4.7 liter V8 in your trucklet, it would be a great tow vehicle for the smaller trailer, but NOT for an LE2. Both trailers are quite heavy for their size. John Davies Spokane WA

I have not looked at mine under the floor, but you definitely need some reinforcement - if there is not already a metal plate underneath for the regular toilet, use a couple of thick pieces of aircraft aluminum (6061 T6 is a good choice) and either big self tapping screws or machine screws and self locking nuts. Use epoxy to bond the plates to the fiberglass, but make sure any fasteners don’t get stuck too! An inline fuse would be acceptable but it needs to be in a easy to access location like under the front dinette seat, not buried behind a sealed screwed down panel. Make sure you install a big enough one, they recommend 2.5 amps. The toilet fan uses way less, but it could pop a 1 amp fuse, which is what came in my trailer. While you are at it, you can remove all the black tank flush parts (cap off the hull fitting!!!) to gain a fair amount of extra storage space in that compartment. Look here: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5272-how-to-flat-foam-storage-tray-for-the-front-dinette-seat-compartment/ Please post pics here when you do this. It will be helpful for those considering the change. John Davies Spokane WA

For those of us with older trailers can somebody please explain these new ones and post a picture, or link to a source other than Oliver? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Welcome, I wish I could find an older thread, but maybe a moderator can help. We had a new member from Germany (I think) who wanted to buy a new Ollie here, use it a while and then import it back home. There were several issues that concerned him, one was the very inefficient and poor quality propane appliances which are used in almost all American RVs. He was talking about removing them completely and installing better ones such as diesel furnace/ water heater, diesel cook top, and a DC compressor refrigerator, types more suitable for Europe. It would be a very expensive conversion, especially if done by a shop rather than the owner! I think he finally decided against the whole thing, he seems to have vanished from the forums. Sweden has the highest LPG (propane) prices in the world. ….. LPG prices by country https://wheelingit.us/2018/09/16/10-ways-european-motorhomes-differ-from-us-rvs/ If you have never towed a large trailer (the Elite 2 is heavy by European standards), then a travel trailer would be a poor choice for a visitor to the States. A used Class B Motorhome (campervan) would make a whole lot more sense, and there would be a very minimal learning curve. It would be sold after your visit, since it too would have those propane appliances and it would not be suitable for taking back home. The LE2 requires a substantial tow vehicle, which may be an issue in Europe, where all the vehicles are “down sized” compared to ours. You would definitely need to upgrade your drivers license since a loaded LE2 is almost 3200 kgs. …https://camperguru.com/caravan-what-you-need-to-know/ For the length of time you are proposing, the smaller Ollie is not very suitable for most full timing couples, IMHO. On the other hand, it would be much better for towing in Europe, as it is a little narrower and much shorter. But it too is heavy, significantly more than a Casita 17. John Davies Spokane WA

LOL, no. That was one of the reasons I posted. https://www.thedrive.com/news/39247/dealers-tack-on-50000-markups-to-2021-ram-1500-trx-pickups But I really love the look, especially the stance. Very like the Raptor, but also it is not a Ford, a plus for me😀 and it has a great big supercharged V8, no turbos…. John Davies Spokane WA

That dealer has ANOTHER one, for the same price, in white, it doesn’t look nearly as good IMHO, I like the contrasting bead lock wheels of the other one. John Davies Spokane WA

I am normally NOT a fan of what I call Primer Grey vehicles, though they are certainly easy to touch up if the paint gets chipped 😬, but this one is an exception, For some reason I quite like this “Anvil Grey”: 650 foot pounds…… It is not quite new, it has 175 miles of “Let’s see if we can smoke all four tires.” test drives. I am surprised that there is any tread left. Can somebody let me have $100,000 please? I can swing the balance. I don’t really like the roll bar/ light bar, that would have to come off. Definitely. John Davies Spokane WA

I am installing new (manual adjust) brakes on the rear axle, so I wanted to check the magnets before covering them up with the drums. I pulled the breakaway switch lanyard and then performed the nifty “Big Wrench Test”: And the “How Many Amps Test”: Check, now it is time for the drums to go on, I already swapped out the supplied bearings for Timkens. I have never even once found a bad brake magnet, but this does check the quality of your electrical splices - it is always better to find mistakes before you go too far into the job. John Davies Spokane WA

They both have star wheels, and both have two slots, the rubber plugs may be missing and are not needed, the real difference is that the self adjuster ones have an extra spring and also a cable with pivoting arm that is supposed to adjust the wheel. Mine were self adjust type and they never did work well, I replaced the front pair four years ago due to grease contamination (grabbing) from a failed seal, and I am in the process of changing the rears now, and I am using manual adjust assemblies. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2778-brakes-auto-adjust-vs-manual-adjust-what-are-the-differences/ The manual ones work great, you just have to turn the adjusters every now and then, depending on how hard you are on the system. Every 3000 miles works for me, in until the wheel won't turn, then back out 8 clicks... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-50700-Brake-Adjusting-Tool/dp/B0002SQU6S ... The auto ones are lipstick on a pig. They make the drum brakes more complicated and lots more trouble prone. John Davies Spokane WA

OK, for those members who may be clueless about this crack thing…. https://www.wmcactionnews5.com/2021/05/12/engineering-expert-explains-i-bridge-crack/ I don’t really understand why folks are so anxious, the bridge is still standing, nobody went into the drink, and there is an Interstate bypass loop and another bridge over the Mississippi. Unless that one is cracked too. Now that would be a serious problem….. John Davies Spokane WA

They made me return mine, but they did provide a prepaid shipping label. I would have liked to hold onto the old one. FYI, my bigger ball is showing only about 10% of the wear I got from the 2” ball, which literally cratered within 1000 miles. John Davies Spokane WA

Be sure that you tell the rep that yours is giving you problems and ask for the larger size if you decide to swap the coupler also. John Davies Spokane WA

KWR, I have had both styles of whale tail and I don’t think the newer one is any easier to operate, though it is prettier. OTH the new style ball mount with water seal and retaining collar IS better, and well worth the upgrade IMHO if you have any problems with your old one making nasty Spawn of Satan noises when you are maneuvering. Andersen once offered a $100 upgrade special deal, if that is sill available, upgrade yours and you will like it a lot better. Install a bigger 2 5/16” Bulldog coupler at the same time you go larger on the ball mount, that combo is most excellent. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3483-how-to-upgrade-the-bulldog-coupler-and-andersen-hitch-to-2-516 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4242-how-to-make-your-andersen-pin-easier-to-insert/ John Davies Spokane WA

That is no problem for me, if I were to be suddenly single, I would be strongly tempted to do the same, and add big tires, independent suspension and an offroad coupler, and be very happy to ditch the Andersen hitch entirely. Downsizing is not bad, just different. Be glad your brakes have been doing well, that is very unusual, and when they do go Tango Uniform, it is not a simple fix like a disk system, especially if you choose a disk kit with idler hubs with slip on rotors and Nev-R-Lube bearings. No more bearing repacking, just bring a spare hub and install it in 30 minutes if one fails, then get the old one's bearings replaced at a machine shop. Ten minute brake pad changes! Go drink a beer instead of mucking around with ancient and cranky drum brake technology... John Davies Spokane WA

If mine ever breaks, fingers crossed, I will replace it with a white fiberglass panel. I never understood the need for that huge heavy fragile dangerous piece of glass. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836 Does anyone know the weight of the mirror? Actually I would prefer a proper door with a real (secure) latch instead of magnets. John Davies Spokane WA

There are good looking SUV tires in a 15” size that would look fine. The Michelin LTX 225/75R16 on “Mouse” are discontinued, I don’t know the specs for the current ones being used. They have an outside diameter of 29.4”, max load 2680 lbs @80 psi, 6-7” rim, and weigh 38 lbs (which is actually very light for an LT tire). The current equivalent in a 15 is the LTX Defender M&S 235/75R15 Load D. 28.8” OD, section width 9.3”, max load 2271 @50 psi, 6-8” rim, 34 lbs. These Coopers would look more aggressive and offer some sidewall protection for gravel, which is important to me. I am a big fan of Coopers…. A real AT offroad tire like a BFG A/T KO2 will be a whole lot heavier, maybe 44 lbs. You would need to choose a 15x7” zero offset aluminum trailer wheel, there are plenty of them out there. Total package weight (5 sets of wheels and tires) would save about 20 lbs of rolling mass. Whether or not these non-LT tires with their softer sidewalks are “appropriate” to install on a trailer is another discussion, but I think they would look fine and not at all teeny. But I like my trucks to have tall sidewalls, smaller wheels look better to me🙂 If an owner were concerned about rim damage (potholes), rock chips (gravel), or winter towing (deicers) a painted steelie would be a good choice and very easy to repaint when it gets scarred up, I would buy something like this one: John Davies Spokane WA

There are a couple of reasons, from my point of view, to change the wheels and tires…. 16 inch LT (10 ply) TRUCK tires are gross overkill for a 7000 pound trailer, they are expensive and they are really heavy. Going to a smaller 8 Ply tire saves money when the time comes to replace the tires if one gets damaged or as they age out (7 years is commonly recommended), plus they are a lot lighter and have less rolling resistance. You could buy an electric over hydraulic disk brake kit for a 3500 pound tandem axle setup and it would be completely plug and play. The current wheels are 6 on 5.5” bolt pattern, which is typical of heavier axles (like on the LE1) that have a 5 bolt brake mount pattern, but the LE2 has little 3500 pound axles with a 4 hole brake mount pattern. Pardon my language, they are bastards, neither here nor there. Nobody makes a bolt-on disk kit for this combination - the hubs have the wrong number of studs OR the brake plate is wrong….. . If you want to install disks, you must replace the axles on an LE2 with the bigger ones, with the proper matching brake plate and lug pattern, which gives you oversized parts and lots of extra mass. Or change the wheels and keep the old axles, and install a lighter system that is better matched to the trailer weight. I think it is crazy that Oliver decided to do this, it completely cripples any future brake upgrade. It will be a couple of more years before I have to replace the tires, enough time for Oliver to come up with a solution for me that does not involve complete axle replacement….. IMHO changing the wheels and tires when your current tires are fine makes no financial sense at all, but suddenly it does make sense when they get too old… Keep in mind your old 6 hole wheels would have some value, they could be sold on Craigslist or here in the Classifieds. Comments? I opened a Service Ticket, to see if there is any hope….. Here is the 10” Dexter slip-on kit (5 hole wheels): And the 12” kit (6 hole wheels, HEAVY parts): John Davies Spokane WA

For sure, add furnace screens, because that unit is really hard to clean out if a nest forms inside the combustion chamber or the intake/ exhaust pipes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192JFBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Others have made screens for the fridge and hot water heater, I have not bothered but bugs are not a problem for me. Something like this, cut and hot glued inside the openings will work - it needs to be small enough mesh to stop wasps, but you also must allow enough airflow: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7VKM8G/?coliid=I3IGSZOIDHG93&colid=1X5H11EH41351&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it The HWH (standard type) is super easy to clean if it gets bugged, the chamber is wide open and all the gas parts are easy to get to. The Truma heater, not so much.... owners shouldn't poke around inside that one. FYI, all those dozen little drain scuppers under the belly have wire screens bonded on top of the holes, there are no worries about bugs entering that way. John Davies Spokane WA

Pure guess, judging from the position and the bike rack, it is an anchor point for a handlebar. I haven’t ever carried a bike there but always wondered about that issue…. OTH I have considered putting a tall cell antenna mast there with a stainless ratchet mount, maybe that is the purpose and it isn’t quite finished yet…. But a flagpole support certainly sounds valid. John Davies Spokane WA