John E Davies

Welcome, I wish I could find an older thread, but maybe a moderator can help. We had a new member from Germany (I think) who wanted to buy a new Ollie here, use it a while and then import it back home. There were several issues that concerned him, one was the very inefficient and poor quality propane appliances which are used in almost all American RVs. He was talking about removing them completely and installing better ones such as diesel furnace/ water heater, diesel cook top, and a DC compressor refrigerator, types more suitable for Europe. It would be a very expensive conversion, especially if done by a shop rather than the owner! I think he finally decided against the whole thing, he seems to have vanished from the forums. Sweden has the highest LPG (propane) prices in the world. ….. LPG prices by country https://wheelingit.us/2018/09/16/10-ways-european-motorhomes-differ-from-us-rvs/ If you have never towed a large trailer (the Elite 2 is heavy by European standards), then a travel trailer would be a poor choice for a visitor to the States. A used Class B Motorhome (campervan) would make a whole lot more sense, and there would be a very minimal learning curve. It would be sold after your visit, since it too would have those propane appliances and it would not be suitable for taking back home. The LE2 requires a substantial tow vehicle, which may be an issue in Europe, where all the vehicles are “down sized” compared to ours. You would definitely need to upgrade your drivers license since a loaded LE2 is almost 3200 kgs. …https://camperguru.com/caravan-what-you-need-to-know/ For the length of time you are proposing, the smaller Ollie is not very suitable for most full timing couples, IMHO. On the other hand, it would be much better for towing in Europe, as it is a little narrower and much shorter. But it too is heavy, significantly more than a Casita 17. John Davies Spokane WA

LOL, no. That was one of the reasons I posted. https://www.thedrive.com/news/39247/dealers-tack-on-50000-markups-to-2021-ram-1500-trx-pickups But I really love the look, especially the stance. Very like the Raptor, but also it is not a Ford, a plus for me😀 and it has a great big supercharged V8, no turbos…. John Davies Spokane WA

That dealer has ANOTHER one, for the same price, in white, it doesn’t look nearly as good IMHO, I like the contrasting bead lock wheels of the other one. John Davies Spokane WA

I am normally NOT a fan of what I call Primer Grey vehicles, though they are certainly easy to touch up if the paint gets chipped 😬, but this one is an exception, For some reason I quite like this “Anvil Grey”: 650 foot pounds…… It is not quite new, it has 175 miles of “Let’s see if we can smoke all four tires.” test drives. I am surprised that there is any tread left. Can somebody let me have $100,000 please? I can swing the balance. I don’t really like the roll bar/ light bar, that would have to come off. Definitely. John Davies Spokane WA

I am installing new (manual adjust) brakes on the rear axle, so I wanted to check the magnets before covering them up with the drums. I pulled the breakaway switch lanyard and then performed the nifty “Big Wrench Test”: And the “How Many Amps Test”: Check, now it is time for the drums to go on, I already swapped out the supplied bearings for Timkens. I have never even once found a bad brake magnet, but this does check the quality of your electrical splices - it is always better to find mistakes before you go too far into the job. John Davies Spokane WA

They both have star wheels, and both have two slots, the rubber plugs may be missing and are not needed, the real difference is that the self adjuster ones have an extra spring and also a cable with pivoting arm that is supposed to adjust the wheel. Mine were self adjust type and they never did work well, I replaced the front pair four years ago due to grease contamination (grabbing) from a failed seal, and I am in the process of changing the rears now, and I am using manual adjust assemblies. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2778-brakes-auto-adjust-vs-manual-adjust-what-are-the-differences/ The manual ones work great, you just have to turn the adjusters every now and then, depending on how hard you are on the system. Every 3000 miles works for me, in until the wheel won't turn, then back out 8 clicks... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-50700-Brake-Adjusting-Tool/dp/B0002SQU6S ... The auto ones are lipstick on a pig. They make the drum brakes more complicated and lots more trouble prone. John Davies Spokane WA

OK, for those members who may be clueless about this crack thing…. https://www.wmcactionnews5.com/2021/05/12/engineering-expert-explains-i-bridge-crack/ I don’t really understand why folks are so anxious, the bridge is still standing, nobody went into the drink, and there is an Interstate bypass loop and another bridge over the Mississippi. Unless that one is cracked too. Now that would be a serious problem….. John Davies Spokane WA

They made me return mine, but they did provide a prepaid shipping label. I would have liked to hold onto the old one. FYI, my bigger ball is showing only about 10% of the wear I got from the 2” ball, which literally cratered within 1000 miles. John Davies Spokane WA

Be sure that you tell the rep that yours is giving you problems and ask for the larger size if you decide to swap the coupler also. John Davies Spokane WA

KWR, I have had both styles of whale tail and I don’t think the newer one is any easier to operate, though it is prettier. OTH the new style ball mount with water seal and retaining collar IS better, and well worth the upgrade IMHO if you have any problems with your old one making nasty Spawn of Satan noises when you are maneuvering. Andersen once offered a $100 upgrade special deal, if that is sill available, upgrade yours and you will like it a lot better. Install a bigger 2 5/16” Bulldog coupler at the same time you go larger on the ball mount, that combo is most excellent. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3483-how-to-upgrade-the-bulldog-coupler-and-andersen-hitch-to-2-516 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4242-how-to-make-your-andersen-pin-easier-to-insert/ John Davies Spokane WA

That is no problem for me, if I were to be suddenly single, I would be strongly tempted to do the same, and add big tires, independent suspension and an offroad coupler, and be very happy to ditch the Andersen hitch entirely. Downsizing is not bad, just different. Be glad your brakes have been doing well, that is very unusual, and when they do go Tango Uniform, it is not a simple fix like a disk system, especially if you choose a disk kit with idler hubs with slip on rotors and Nev-R-Lube bearings. No more bearing repacking, just bring a spare hub and install it in 30 minutes if one fails, then get the old one's bearings replaced at a machine shop. Ten minute brake pad changes! Go drink a beer instead of mucking around with ancient and cranky drum brake technology... John Davies Spokane WA

If mine ever breaks, fingers crossed, I will replace it with a white fiberglass panel. I never understood the need for that huge heavy fragile dangerous piece of glass. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836 Does anyone know the weight of the mirror? Actually I would prefer a proper door with a real (secure) latch instead of magnets. John Davies Spokane WA

There are good looking SUV tires in a 15” size that would look fine. The Michelin LTX 225/75R16 on “Mouse” are discontinued, I don’t know the specs for the current ones being used. They have an outside diameter of 29.4”, max load 2680 lbs @80 psi, 6-7” rim, and weigh 38 lbs (which is actually very light for an LT tire). The current equivalent in a 15 is the LTX Defender M&S 235/75R15 Load D. 28.8” OD, section width 9.3”, max load 2271 @50 psi, 6-8” rim, 34 lbs. These Coopers would look more aggressive and offer some sidewall protection for gravel, which is important to me. I am a big fan of Coopers…. A real AT offroad tire like a BFG A/T KO2 will be a whole lot heavier, maybe 44 lbs. You would need to choose a 15x7” zero offset aluminum trailer wheel, there are plenty of them out there. Total package weight (5 sets of wheels and tires) would save about 20 lbs of rolling mass. Whether or not these non-LT tires with their softer sidewalks are “appropriate” to install on a trailer is another discussion, but I think they would look fine and not at all teeny. But I like my trucks to have tall sidewalls, smaller wheels look better to me🙂 If an owner were concerned about rim damage (potholes), rock chips (gravel), or winter towing (deicers) a painted steelie would be a good choice and very easy to repaint when it gets scarred up, I would buy something like this one: John Davies Spokane WA

There are a couple of reasons, from my point of view, to change the wheels and tires…. 16 inch LT (10 ply) TRUCK tires are gross overkill for a 7000 pound trailer, they are expensive and they are really heavy. Going to a smaller 8 Ply tire saves money when the time comes to replace the tires if one gets damaged or as they age out (7 years is commonly recommended), plus they are a lot lighter and have less rolling resistance. You could buy an electric over hydraulic disk brake kit for a 3500 pound tandem axle setup and it would be completely plug and play. The current wheels are 6 on 5.5” bolt pattern, which is typical of heavier axles (like on the LE1) that have a 5 bolt brake mount pattern, but the LE2 has little 3500 pound axles with a 4 hole brake mount pattern. Pardon my language, they are bastards, neither here nor there. Nobody makes a bolt-on disk kit for this combination - the hubs have the wrong number of studs OR the brake plate is wrong….. . If you want to install disks, you must replace the axles on an LE2 with the bigger ones, with the proper matching brake plate and lug pattern, which gives you oversized parts and lots of extra mass. Or change the wheels and keep the old axles, and install a lighter system that is better matched to the trailer weight. I think it is crazy that Oliver decided to do this, it completely cripples any future brake upgrade. It will be a couple of more years before I have to replace the tires, enough time for Oliver to come up with a solution for me that does not involve complete axle replacement….. IMHO changing the wheels and tires when your current tires are fine makes no financial sense at all, but suddenly it does make sense when they get too old… Keep in mind your old 6 hole wheels would have some value, they could be sold on Craigslist or here in the Classifieds. Comments? I opened a Service Ticket, to see if there is any hope….. Here is the 10” Dexter slip-on kit (5 hole wheels): And the 12” kit (6 hole wheels, HEAVY parts): John Davies Spokane WA

For sure, add furnace screens, because that unit is really hard to clean out if a nest forms inside the combustion chamber or the intake/ exhaust pipes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192JFBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Others have made screens for the fridge and hot water heater, I have not bothered but bugs are not a problem for me. Something like this, cut and hot glued inside the openings will work - it needs to be small enough mesh to stop wasps, but you also must allow enough airflow: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7VKM8G/?coliid=I3IGSZOIDHG93&colid=1X5H11EH41351&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it The HWH (standard type) is super easy to clean if it gets bugged, the chamber is wide open and all the gas parts are easy to get to. The Truma heater, not so much.... owners shouldn't poke around inside that one. FYI, all those dozen little drain scuppers under the belly have wire screens bonded on top of the holes, there are no worries about bugs entering that way. John Davies Spokane WA

Pure guess, judging from the position and the bike rack, it is an anchor point for a handlebar. I haven’t ever carried a bike there but always wondered about that issue…. OTH I have considered putting a tall cell antenna mast there with a stainless ratchet mount, maybe that is the purpose and it isn’t quite finished yet…. But a flagpole support certainly sounds valid. John Davies Spokane WA

I did fix that Spell Check typo Bill, but you beat me to my Edit. It does look tasty, but I am sure it would be beyond gross to ingest…. BTW, does anyone recognize the white plastic tray? That is really old, microwave dinners used to come on those, they make great work trays for small parts. John Davies Spokane WA

I bought Timken wheel bearings quite a while ago and finally got started on replacing the old ones. I always hand-packed bearings, what a mess that makes. I finally decide to treat myself to a Lisle Handy Packer. No more messes. Well, at least they are not as big. This is Redline CV-2 grease, the good stuff. Isn’t this a cool pic? John Davies Spokane WA

Well, I think it comes down to skill of the operator - a plasma cutter or a shaped charge of C4 explosive would also do it, but none of these would be my tool of choice… John Davies Spokane WA

Sure, if you have a power band or saber saw or are willing to spend twenty minutes using a hacksaw to cut off the shank. I don't think one with a long shank sticking out would deter theft. These hitch balls are fairly mild (soft) steel and not that hard to cut. Be sure to dress out any rough edges with a belt sander afterwards for looks, and so you don't open up a finger on a sharp part. A steel ball bearing OTH is chrome plated and hardened, and more fun to play with. John Davies Spokane WA

If the small center caps tend to fall out, glue them in from the back side with clear RTV adhesive sealant. That will also slow down a thief, though I have never heard of this being a problem. Unless perhaps the caps have a Corvette or Porsche logo on them. Mine were the old solid kind, thin chrome steel that would dent it you looked at it wrong. I removed them years ago. John Davies Spokane WA

Important - affects ROUND units bought in 2019 or 2020, I don’t know if any of these are used in Ollies, but check anyway, and check any new ones at home. Look here first: http://kiddetsalarmrecall.rsvpcomm.com/info.aspx Submitting a claim: How to submit a claim John Davies Spokane WA

I think the Andersen ball mount would greatly benefit from a steel 1/2” square drive receptacle embedded in the very bottom of the lower part, because you could insert the tool you use for tightening the nuts or a long breaker bar…. Using a steel wrench or (poorly fitting) bar through the pin hole will likely cause the soft aluminum to become scarred or distorted after a while. If you do this, it would be prudent to bring along a big coarse file to fix the damage. OK, this is too funny, I am using my iPhone now and the spell checker changed “wrench” to “weird RV”, then when I fixed that it changed it again to “nacho”…. I turned that feature off on my iPad LONG ago but it has much bigger letters on its virtual keyboard. I think hitting the space bar instead of one of the lower letters really confuses it. I should just forget about the phone for posting, except as source for party jokes. Have a nice day. John Davies Spokane WA

I have received a couple of Messages asking about this, so I guess I should post some pics. This is an older ARB Classic 50 quart cooler, I picked it because it is tall and narrow and that makes it accessible from the rear passenger window of a tow vehicle, I remove the left rear seat of my Land Cruiser and anchor it solidly to home made tie down points. It would not be at all good for it to launch forward during a collision. NOTE: You can't effectively anchor this to an installed seat, the soft foam allows too much motion, and the leather or cloth fabric could be damaged. Door OPEN: Door CLOSED, window down: Because the hinge is on the far side, the lid opens easily. Or it can be removed entirely by "popping" the hinge which has tow little spring loaded ball detents (twist the lid to one side): Tied down hard to the center seat attach point: And in front it is strapped to a length of big chain that is bolted to the two front seat mounts, using 3/8" stainless carabiners for the two ratchet straps to pass through. It is ROCK solid and will not shift on bumpy roads: ***** There are air vents at the two back corners (below the hinges) down low, it is imperative that these be kept open, don't allow cargo or a loose jacket to go down there and block them, or the unit can't cool.***** Note, on a Land Cruiser 200 the AIRBAG warning light will illuminate if you take out a rear seat, so the fix is to install a small resistor in the warning harness connector, the white one at the bottom of the above picture, to fool the computer into thinking that there is a seat installed there. There are instructions at a number of different LC forums, this is very common. Power comes from the center console round 12 volt socket when towing, and from the trailer when parked: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3247-how-to-external-solar-dc-power-cable-using-factory-furrion-port/ The compressor uses about 1 amp and cycles on and off, depending on the heat load, if you reduce that "delta T", the temperature difference between the cabin and the fridge, it will use less power. Add sunshields to south facing glass, park in shade, pop open the sunroof, etc. I normally use it as a freezer and keep stuff really cold, so it can be turned off for a few hours in the daytime or overnight and the contents will not thaw. Highly recommended for long trips, especially to places where food costs are high, or grocery stores are infrequent, like Alaska! https://www.arkportablepower.com/blogs/news/17808136-the-arb-fridge-freezer-and-battery-life-what-you-need-to-know John Davies Spokane WA

Hitching up to a heavy trailer with the tow vehicle at a severe angle will ALWAYS be very frustrating, because instead of worrying about just one axis (front to back) you have to struggle with a second one (side to side). When you reverse the TV straight back, the side to side part becomes irrelevant, or at least very small. Move back, when the ball is under the coupler, lower the coupler, make a little front to back adjustment with the TV, maybe kick the hitch or tongue slightly to shift it, clunk, it falls into place. At a severe angle, the slightest motion throws the ball out of alignment in TWO directions. The ball won’t drop down, or else the arm will not latch in place, and the slightest movement of the TV throws it all out of whack again. I spent fifteen minutes hooking up at the last site, which was a very short pull-through with a really tight curve. If I cannot avoid such a site in the future I will remove the whaletail and let it dangle from a 12” bungee cord while I maneuver into position, so the pin hole does not get cocked. When hitching, straighten out the rig and install the whaletail. I hope that made sense. What I described is true for any hitch, but the Andersen with its rotating pin makes things ten times worse. It can be a very frustrating piece of equipment even for somebody who has used one for years. I hate it. John Davies Spokane WA