Steve Morris

Don, how persistent is the connection between the camera and the display? Are you seeing dropouts and/or lag? After seeing Mike Urbancic (@Boilermake Chemist) using a Haloview MC7108 at this year's rally, I ordered one, too, along with this adaptor plate with furring to Haloview connectors. https://a.co/d/iMfzTgw The setup worked beautifully in the driveway! But a couple of weeks later when we took our trip to Adirondack Park was the first time I used it on the road. As soon as I got up over 30 or so MPH, I started getting a lot of dropouts. And when there was a signal, a lot of the time there was significant delay. I'd see cars beside me that were just coming into view on the backup camera screen. We moved the receiver all over the dash, against the sunroof, Deb holding it next to the window, all while adjusting the antenna to get best signal. Nothing helped. We were on a 10 day trip, and my return window was 4 days away, so I'm stuck with it. Worse, the Fusion camera and monitor were at home in the garage. I don't really use the camera for backing up, instead preferring it for lane changes and keeping an eye on traffic approaching from behind. I've got it on Facebook Marketplace now, describing how it would be good for something shorter like a truck camper or back of a truck cap. But no interest so far. Haloview Customerservice was useless, answering there first email with generic tips, and never answering the next three or four I sent... So, I'm curious to see how yours works with two antenna on the monitor. The only thing I can think of to cause my unit (and many others after reading more reviews) to lose signal at speed is due to 4K bandwidth of the new camera compared to whatever low resolution is on the original Furrion. But it can't just be interference from engine noise, because I manually kept the truck in first gear to test it at low speeds but high RPM, and no loss of signal or delay. I'm perplexed.

I saw that on Facebook and commented. Definitely not a fan of the new blinds! They look cheap compared to the current version, and that spot where it rests on the window handle looks like a wear/puncture point, as well as just plain ugly. The TV looks smaller, and the cable entry for the TV swapped sides. Chrome belly band seems to break up the interior better to my eyes. Overall, *I* think it is a step backwards in quality appearance.

Don, Excellent timing on this post! After two years, I'm finally mounting the cellular/wifi antenna on my roof rather than rely on the stubby antennas on my Pepwave cellular router. At the same time, I'm adding the Mobile Must Have POE injector for the Starlink Mini, and converting the exterior port to RJ45. I'll be mounting the POE injector similar to your setup, and adding the power switch in the basement is a great idea, as you're already there plugin in the Ethernet cable. Nicely done. I'd really like to move the router to the same area, but there's no way I could route the seven antenna cables down there! Plus, they are not long enough. So I'll run a short Ethernet cable from the port to the POE injector, and then a longer Ethernet cable to the back of the basement, up along the nightstand somewhere, and then up behind the rear window shade and into the television port. Only a couple inches of the cable would be visible, which I can live with. It will then go into the WAN port on the Peplink to feed the Apple TV and security camera hub connected to the LAN ports. Any more, and I'm going to need a network switch! When I ordered the POE injector, I also added the optional Pepwave 12V connector, eliminating needing to power both devices separately. With the POE injector in the bilges, I won't be needing that connector, but gain the feature of the exterior switch to power the POE injector separately. That's even better! Thanks for the details. Switch and RJ45 port are on order now.

Who was at Patoka Lake in Indiana during a recent heat wave? You made it in the background of “We’re the Russos” latest YouTube video. https://youtu.be/Fnykd-E1qw4?feature=shared

The external SAE port goes directly to the battery, not to the charge controller. Even if it did go to the charge controller, you wouldn’t necessarily be able to tie into it. In my case, the Oliver mounted panels are 24 volt, where my portable panels are 12. Mixing voltages drags the 24V panels down to the lower input. And if both your installed and portable panels are the same voltage, you might need a larger charge controller to handle the combined input. I’ll eventually mount a controller inside for convenience. But having the setup that I have now has already saved the day for a friend while camping with no hookups. He was able to use my kit to keep his battery charged enough to run the fridge instead of having to go home early.

Gary, send me a message with your address. We’re away right now, but when I get home I’ll see if I can find them. I recently cleaned my garage, and now I don’t know where anything is! 🤣

Mine almost never go down the tubes. One side occasionally, the other not at all. I’ve run string trimmer line up from the bottom, but that doesn’t seem to do anything. I haven’t popped the cover, yet

Very nice! Foy sells three sizes, standard (24.25 X 28.125), Extended 29.25 X 28.125), and Mega (29.26 X 32.125). Yours is even longer, by 3" each side. That's a lot of space you've made available. Thanks for sharing!

That’s been one of my only complaints on our trailer. Why would they use black material top and bottom!? It’s like an oven underneath! Even having a reflective top would be a huge benefit.

No, I had not read that question earlier. It should function fine either direction. The only negative would be if the weld that holds the tube to the plate were to fail, the collar wouldn’t capture the cross pin, allowing the rack to become lost. But I’m pretty confident that the Reese receiver is far better than the no-name options available, and have not seen a review with a weld failure. Ours has been fine for over 12,000 miles now.

Mine frequently end up in the silverware drawer under the stove. I’m missing one now that’s completely gone. If you find a replacement, please post a link.

Some ford trucks are missing a brake pedal spring, which can result in total loss of braking. Here is the recall information: https://www.nhtsa.gov/?nhtsaId=25V401000 Summary Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2025 F-550 SD, F-450 SD, F-350 SD, and F-250 SD vehicles. The brake booster pushrod retaining spring may not have been installed, which can allow the pushrod to disconnect from the brake pedal and cause a sudden loss of brake function. You can search to see if your vehicle is effected (or if any vehicle has a pending recall) here: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

8 ~Oliver Door Lock ~Basement/Battery door ~Master tongue lock ~Bike rack locks (all keyed alike ~2 Bicycle keys ~Cable lock across tongue box ~Toyota key But at camp, I only carry the door lock key, and while travelling, just the door key and the Toyota key. I have two duplicate sets stashed, because I once arrived at camp with just the door key. So I spent four days without unhooking from the truck, leveling, dumping, or external power...

It gets better!

Current location: Fish Creek Ponds Campground site 222 in the Adirondacks. Absolutely beautiful! The view from the door

Lowrider! We are currently at Hamlin Beach State Park, in New York, on the shores of Lake Ontario. On the way here, I realized that I’d never seen this Great Lake before, despite several trips across New York over the decades. It is a very nice park, with brand new bathroom/showerhouse combos, and lots of beach, shelter houses, laundry, playground, etc. Tomorrow we leave for Fish Creek Pond in the Adirondacks for the six night TearUp ADK rally.

Prompted by similar posts on the Facebook groups and here on the Oliver forum, I finally assembled my portable solar kit. I’ve had a Bluetti 200W solar panel (which does not have an integrated charge controller) for several years to help keep the EB70 in my truck charged up. I added a second after we got the Oliver, as well as a Vicrton MPPT 100/20 charge controller. My original intention was to interrupt the line between the solar port and the battery. But I really didn’t want to do something that invasive. So instead, like many owners before me, I built a suitcase case to supplement my suitcase panels. A Cabela’s plastic ammo box works great to mount the charge controller, an SAE solar port, and an MC4 PV port. It also holds the 10 gauge SAE and 30’ 10 gauge MC4 cables, inline fuse, polarity reverser, and MC4 tools. All in a handy box. This will be handy next weekend, when we leave for a ten day trip to New York’s Adirondack area at Fish Creek Pond. There are camp sites all around the lake; every one a waterfront spot. But no hookups and lots of trees. So hopefully 800W of solar panels will keep us well charged.

Same result here. Foolproof, easy to fine tune, and responds instantly. It is the overwhelming choice in the Toyota community; not a joke.

We’ve had the solar version of the Trac-4 on Curiosity’s roof since the first few months of ownership. Having its own GPS and cellular unit works pretty well. Occasionally it looses its location and tells me it has left the home geofence, but that’s rare. The hourly report works for us. I don’t need immediate location. In fact, it is more install and ignore. But if it gets stolen, it should be easy to find once the thieves stop for a bit.

@Jason Essary I'm assuming that we can't make reservations at the campground until one year ahead of time (except Alabama residents who can reserve 13 months ahead)

Toyota's GPS is notoriously awful, and until recent models of trucks and SUVs, Android Auto and Apple Car Play were not offered. As an upgrade, I simply overlaid the OEM screen with my 11" iPad. It has a cheap magnetic cover, and when placed as shown, the magnet in the flap sticks to the steel speaker grill on the dash. It's stayed locked in on some rough trails with no movement. I use a magnetic USB-C plug, so that if I need the OEM screen or backup camera, I simply flip the iPad up onto the dash. I've used Waze for years, but was having some trouble on the trip to Lake Guntersville. So I tried Apple's Map application for the first time in probably a decade. It worked really well! It re-routed me in Nashville when there was a wreck. It would be nice if it had the police and object on the road features of Waze, but I'm going to try it for a while. I tried the RV Life app when we went to Florida, but didn't care for it. Not a fan of Google Maps, either, as it's taken me on even stranger routes than Waze trying to save a few seconds time. For out of cellular range, I can download regional maps into GAIA GPS or use my Garmin InReach's tiny screen. Or, use one of the many maps I always carry with us.

I had never considered one until I started reading stories about drivers intentionally pulling in front of cars, slamming on the brakes to get in a crash, then claiming they were rear-ended. Someone on here had a car back into his wife at a stop light and claimed she’d hit him. Only the dash cam saved them from fines and insurance claims. There are some sleazy people out there, and I want all the protection from their scams as I can get.

Wow, that's a nice setup! I have the TST system for monitoring tire pressure and a VIOFO Dash Cam A119 Mini 2. And based on Mike Urbancic's replacement rear view camera at the rally, I just bought a Haloview MC7108 to swap for my Furrion. Combining these three into one unit would be fantastic, and eliminate some wiring. The Haloview I just bought was $200, and I could send it back. But I'm not sureI want to spend an additional $400 to replace the TPMS and dash cam I already have. Hmmmm... But if I were starting again, this is definitely the way I’d go.

With my juvenile mindset, it was really difficult not to say something inappropriate here. But I refrained. 😁