jd1923

Never been a fan of FB, and after years Chris closed her account.

70 years later it’s another Chrysler Town & Country! 🤣

@rideadeuce Mike, thanks for this. I might be going crazy. I could swear I wrote a comment on this Monday night after you posted and it's not here! Must have not clicked the Submit button. Thank you for finding the correct part, as you stated, sourcing can be the difficult front work of the job. Made in USA and reasonable, nice! Question is, what was your reason for replacing the vent? For $16, I might replace mine just to remove the ugly of the old vent and Dicor on top of Dicor mess. I'm working this summer on removing all old Dicor and caulk so someday she will be ready to apply a decent shine. Your installation is clean, nice work as always. 😂

Likely ran out of juice, just a few miles down the road. 🤣

Agreed, the use of wood screws has cracked the fiberglass. It's very difficult with fiberglass to apply the right amount of torque to fasten and not overtighten. I would want to fill these cracked holes, to redrill cleanly or to use VHB afterwards depending. Does anybody know a good fill product for screw holes in fiberglass? Some kind of epoxy that plays well with fiberglass. @rideandfly's install is beautiful! OTT should consider this approach. However, there are times in installation work, where you do not have access to the back side to thread a nut.

I purchased the upgraded fan when a post came up last year. I will install it this summer with VHB with no rain guard as well. I learned the benefits of VHB in 2019 when installing a complete solar/inverter system in our Bigfoot Class-C. I doubled the solar mounts to be certain of strength (likely not necessary). Most roof-top items in the pic were installed by me, solar, new AC, Dish, 2 fantastic fans (old ones had manual cranks) and new fridge vent cap (everything white in color). I did the Dish first and regrettably used screws on that install. Each solar mount has 1x3" VHB 4950 and not one screw. The bigfoot has a fiberglass roof too and don't gunk up your install thinking you need Dicor on top for absolutely no reason, yuck hate the stuff. VHB is UV and weather resistant and remember there are no hole in the fiberglass, no way to leak rainwater. Five years later, the new owner has no complaints and I believe 3M states VHB has an expected 20-year life.

When I see pics like this, it's such a shame. OTT should REALLY start using adhesives or VHB tape on so many parts attached the fiberglass hulls, both inner and outer. Look at the cracking at EVERY hole. There is a little stress on this terminal when plugging and unplugging, and it's not weight bearing. Same goes for interior switch panels and truly dozens of items. We would be able to replace parts and upgrade without concern of screw hole alignment. Many of you fear drilling into your Olivers. OTT should have more concern re this matter.

A simple way to connect the new DC charging lead, using a standard (larger) lug, would be to merely double up on the battery lead on the far right in this picture. There are enough threads on the bolt, and you have a direct connection without going through the bus and any resistance it may cause.

When I was first thinking about adding one of these, I assumed I needed an isolated converter to remove electrical interference between electronics in the TV (ECM, sensors, radio) and TT (solar charger, perhaps other). This article recommends the non-isolated merely based on cost. It does not address nor give example of possible interference. Isolated vs non Isolated DC to DC Charger - Which one to get (cleversolarpower.com) Then I installed a Pepwave router in the TV. I connected it directly to the TV battery. At first temporarily, thinking if there was interference with the router and ECM, I would just run the router when camped and eventually add an isolated AGM battery in the truck bed. I have not needed to do so. The TV with router on driving down the road has not shown any bleep of issue. We have received clean 5G while driving down the highway and no issue in the TV. BTW, I also have an Edge Juice w/ Attitude installed which is a supplemental ECM, with multiple sensors, gauges etc. and no interference between the Juice and Pepwave, of course all sharing the same TV ground The more I think about it, while towing/charging most everything is off in the TT (except solar charger), so what kind of interference could there be? Can anybody provide example(s) of probable relevant interference? If not, the Victron 50A non-isolated charger should be just fine, just as @MAX Burner's installation has proved.

Don't take me too seriously, just poured a cup myself! 🤣

You got me on this one. I did not fully consider this line, "I turned it to fan mode and the growl goes away." So yes, in this case I agree with @CRM that it must be compressor related. If this exclusive product, just one year old can "jump up off the mounts" Truma as a product line has way too many issues. Truma Water Heat Fire in the Hole - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) and there are more complaints. So never mind what I wrote about changing fan speeds, turning off-n-on, etc. That will not work. Perhaps you need to get that compressor back on its mounts, whatever that entails. Very sorry this is happening to you when you have immediate travel plans.

I'm with you, thank you. You can't get me to do anything but hookup the hose at the dump station! 🤣 Separate liquids from solids and more cr@p, NOT! (pun intended)

Yes 3600 LB payload is certainly HD! The 2003 Ram 2500 I drove for years had 9000 GVRW and it weighed 7200 LBS empty, so half the payload. Very nice truck. You should just throw the Ollie in back! Small world, we owned a 2014 Passat TDI. Never towed with it, but loaded full we got 47 MPG highway when we moved from TX to S FL. We were moving, so Chris was driving that, and I was pulling an 18' cargo trailer with our Ram. I had literally every SF of the car packed. Loved that car, drove it hard for 4 years. Got 35 MPG commuting and I drove it heavy-footed to make time. VW bought it back in the TDI settlement, writing us a check for the amount we paid for it, taxed and titled.

I use ours too. Mines an older 2500, not like the $100K super duty diesels some have. There is a difference. There is the 2500 and some are the 2500 HD which is really a 3500 in disguise! My owner's manual states to use a WDH when towing over 5K LBS. I tried it without after reading many comments here, and it is night and day in how it handles. Rich, I want your truck. 10-speed Allison OMG! I could coast up our mountains in that. Mine will have to do.

That makes good sense and we sure walked by many hiking on our recent trip to SW Utah. It would take a while looking to find the right kind, all close in size to collect a good batch. The ones I purchased for about $20, must have been run a rock tumbler and sorted for size. You can see in the ad choice of size. They're all rounded nicely, no cracks and hard as can be, the size and almost the shape of small eggs. Though I'll say, I certainly appreciate a thrifty idea! Thanks.

OK, the first mention was OK @MAX Burner, but you guys are turning my AGM in the TV thread into a dumb coffee thread!

Being home during this meet, I was hoping for more pictures. Your meetings, members getting together... Maybe those will be coming after y'all get home!

The Andersen model is made to fit the Oliver frame, truck model does not matter. The truck matters re whether you need a WDH or not, but they all have 2" hitch receivers. My suggestion is to ask members here if they want to sell theirs. I've noted some 10+ forum members that say they do not use theirs with their F-250 or other 2500 series trucks. Used and pulled from another Oliver, IMHO would be the best way to go! If you truly want to buy new, ask OTT for the part number or buy from them.

@HDRider I've never even seen a Truma A/C, but you have a bearing noise, in the fan or fan motor, that I'm certain. On our recent trip the blower motor in my truck was doing the same thing. Mine was more of a squeal that would change pitch with the fan speed. I pulled the blower motor the other day and it was making the same noise connected to 12V on my workbench. Good news is that if you can live with it on your trip, yes it will be annoying, but you should be OK for a while (unless going away for months). I see your Oliver is only a year old, so it should have some life in it. The way to get rid of the noise is to change fan speeds or turn off and on as you have done. I read Truma service is impossible, but plan on that in your near future. These are not serviceable bearings. The fan assembly and/or fan motor should be replaced. Yours should be under warranty. Bad time of year for it with summer coming and RV Service shops being booked months out. I would open a ticket on it asap for warranty repair. I hope to upgrade my AC this year or next. Reading too many posts on both Truma products on this forum. One member even changed out his on-demand HWH for the old fashioned 6-gal Suburban! I will upgrade to a unit where I can source replaceable parts and service the unit myself.

Yep, you can even mod a fire ring being creative. We love our fire ring! We prefer to camp in cooler weather, and in the evening we sit by the fire ring for drinks and conversation. I understand the purists want a real campfire, but more often than not in the SW open fires are restricted. Also, I'm a hardworking sort but I dislike spending effort on something that is later "dust in the wind" with no resulting value. No smoke, no fire danger, just warmth. Often when Chris is starting dinner, she'll call out, "start the grill please." I'm thinking it's early for dinner, but she wants to start a couple baked potatoes. I've learned Irish women got to have potatoes, at least mine does often. So, I was sitting there by the fire thinking, "why should I need two fires going?" Being conservative (in more ways than one), the waste bothered me. After dinner, we sit by the fire ring again. I acquired this grill grate a few years ago from a guy that was renting our outbuilding. When moving out, he threw it away, so I saved it. Now I have a great use for it. Love reusing old stuff I've saved! It's some kind of weird form of accomplishment within me. Actually, the first mod to our fire ring was to replace the rocks. They come standard with some cheap version of lava rock, lighter than air, useless. We purchased these HD lava rocks and although it does add a few LBs to the ring, the amount of heat is certainly doubled! Amazon.com: Stanbroil Lava Rock Granules for Gas Log Sets and Fireplaces - 10 lb.Bag (0.8"-1.2") : Patio, Lawn & Garden You put these two upgrades together and you can cook anything that does not release grease: baked potatoes, other veggies, boil water, etc. It gets hotter, cooks faster than our small Weber grill. And this way I can turn the potatoes, butt in chair, drink in hand! I bought this item too. Got the 100-pack since we use them as a drip catch for the Weber and you can use them for this purpose too. ttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRGWLGDG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will also keep any juices from bleeding onto the rocks. A couple of pics to follow from our recent outing. I call the second one "campin' au gratins" and oh, they were sooooo good!

It's been two months now and I have a few thoughts. There is no way a truck alternator can supply the same charge curve as a dedicated charger can installed in an RV. I have an accurate voltmeter and while driving I get mostly 13.7V, then 13.2V and the highest was 14.1V (rarely). I may need to install a new HD alternator, especially if I install a DC-to-DC charger. Voltage an hour or so after driving is usually 12.6V, sometimes 12.7V which is a hair better than lead-acid batteries. It's not the 13.1V that I used to get in our Class-C AGM house batteries. I also have a Rid-Rat device and a Pepwave router setup in the TV, running 24x7. At home when the truck sits for a couple weeks the voltage can get down to 12.1V (lowest reading). I have a toggle switch for the router, but this is with it running. I bought this charger and the hardwire kit and it has an AGM setting. Seems like a very nice unit. I have collected 5-6 chargers through the years, but all old technology. This will get the two truck batteries up to 12.9V, again an hour or so after disconnected. They say you can leave maintenance charger on for extended periods, but I don't as many will fry the batteries at some point. I extended the hardwire kit, so that the terminal is sitting in the air intake in the front bumper. I can charge the TV now without popping the hood. That's nice. I plan to charge it overnight every few weeks to keep these AGMs in good shape. 😂 Amazon.com: NOCO GENIUS10, 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries : Automotive Amazon.com: NOCO GC008 X-Connect M10 XL Eyelet Terminal Accessory Genius Smart Battery Chargers : Automotive

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Hey @MAX Burner I'm trying to send you a PM and it says "@maxburner cannot receive messages. Do you have a full mailbox, or do one of the moderators know what's up?

@rideadeuce Hey Mike, you are really doing a great mod-job on your Oliver. So many great improvements, and excellent work too. I LOVE your ladder-scaffold setup! Can I borrow it? Oh, and can I borrow a lot of flat land to work on? I would need levelers for that setup, or perhaps ladders with adjustable legs. Hmmm, you have me thinking. It's certainly not easy working on top of the Oliver given its shape. Kidding aside, thanks for sharing so many great posts lately. 😂

We're used the Pine-Sol-Calgon solution 4-5 times over the last 6 months, and I did not smell a thing. My sense of smell is acute. Last time out, I smelled some in the toilet, since the toilet had been left without any water in the bowl. With a good seal and water in the bowl, and clean water meaning no Pine-Sol in the plumbing traps, you really should not smell it. Cause can be plumbing leaks or plumbing vents that do not seal. These vents are designed to allow air in and not out. But who knows, when the TT is bouncing down the road! That being said... In the future, I'm going with @Geronimo John's suggestion to use dishwasher soap pods. Do you really need 2-3? I would think 1 should suffice. I like this option because the pods are light, small and travel nicely. With Pine-Sol you really have to be careful, not only in transport but in application. If you do not very carefully put a cup of the liquid down one sink, no spills, flush the trap, then yep as @SeaDawg wrote, you're going to smell it.