jd1923

I don't know whether you bought this new or used. I buy mostly used vehicles and there are often wires disconnect for various reasons. I have disconnected wires at a fuse box intentionally when I retire some device, but then I would also label and tape down the wire. You really want to know what it is that you are connecting. Given you bought this new, you would think all wires should be connected. However, the wire could be from a standard wire harness for an option you did not purchase. The only way these would get disconnected is from somebody working down there or perhaps placing something lose in the area. These spade terminals do not fall off by themselves from regular use of the trailer. If you want to connect this without knowing what the wire powers, it does not matter to which terminal it is connected. It's all a 12V bus bar. What matters is the amperage of the connected fuse. Without knowing what it powers, it would be impossible to know the correct fuse amperage. Are slots #14 or #15 labeled with fuses inserted? That would help to determine purpose. Perhaps somebody, not only with a 2022 model, but with the same 12V accessories you ordered, can help. I suggest opening a Service Ticket, providing this picture, asking first the purpose so the panel can be labeled properly and then where it should be inserted.

Welcome to our OTT Forum @Fernando Alicea! Hull #6 - WOW how cool.😂 She looks great! New windows would certainly improve the whole trailer. There are some experts here on the older Elite I Olivers. Everybody is quiet this week since so many are at the annual OTT Rally. I will mention @SeaDawg and @ScubaRx since they are a wealth of historic and general information and so they see this thread soon. If you want a quick answer, I would call OTT Service tomorrow before the weekend. They could look up your hull # and let you know the manufacturer or perhaps supply the windows you need. Best wishes and keep us posted on the maintenance of your classic Oliver.

Just reread your post and yep, that’s what you wrote. This was a thread about tires and shocks, so I assumed as such. Wow! This is crazy! Body mount bushings are NOT a service item! There are guys on the Cummins forum that replace these after 500K miles on commercial hauling rigs. Just had my bed off on my 2001, and all mounts are supple rubber on this 23 year old truck, that spent its life in the desert of the Phoenix Valley. Highly unusual is your experience.

Our pump will not cycle on at all even when left on for hours. The pump should pressurize the plumbing, but hot the tank given the overflow is always open. I noticed a minor drip on the far rear weep hole at a different time. What you experienced could have been your level a a bit off. We get the level spot-on with the LevelMatePRO and it was level at the time when the leak was pictured. I have never noticed any drip on the driver's side, all curbside, and this points to a plumbing leak vs. condensation. I want to thank everybody here who made suggestions, add pictures, etc. This is very helpful. I'm not getting right on this work very soon, but I will update this thread as I do. Our Oliver is parked now and until after Labor Day and I have much M&R planned for our off-season (home, TV and Oliver projects)!

Sure Rich, thanks for asking! We have not yet added Starlink because of the $2500 cost. We are very much parttime (90% home), but I rationalized the Pepwave and a T-Mobile Business account as a backup to my business as an online instructor in Project Management. When have Internet issues at home, just connect to the TV in the driveway and Wi-Fi! T-Mobile is the only carrier that provides 5G all the way up here at 5400 FT in little Prescott, AZ! This is the bundle I purchased: Speed Demon Mobile Internet Bundle – MobileMustHave.com and they have an option to add Starlink. It should be plug-n-play as @rideadeuce mentioned. Just plug it in the WAN port. I purchased their $49 configuration fee (strongly suggested), since I did not want to learn and do that work. All I did was install the hardware and answer a questionnaire (select Wi-Fi names, etc.) and it's good. Starlink setup would be included if bundled. I STRONGLY recommend installing in the TV, unless a pretty truck is important to you, or you trade them in often. You're not always at the campsite, but you are always in the TV, or it's parked by your Oliver. Not much room on the Ollie roof and no drilling into the Oliver. The fiberglass shell of the Ollie allows for strong Wi-Fi (AS TTs have to run a Wi-Fi access point due to the metal shell). Get the best, the PARSEC PRO antenna too. We camp in many canyons in the Rockies, that have no service (radio, TV or cell). Just drive our truck up to a ridge and we can use our computers. If you add Starlink this is a moot point, but I drive this truck down to the valley often w/o the Oliver, teach a class in Las Vegas for the week and the router goes where we go. Chris uses her laptop often while I'm driving. We've gotten anywhere from a low 20 Mbps download speeds out in the boonies (slow but can stream TV) to 860 Mpbs high speed where 5G is available! Here is the mod post I made a few months back:

Like to get to this upgrade (I hear buy it in Mexico for <$) after new leafs and a quiet AC unit, and more... Spent $1600 for Christmas on our Peplink setup and that has served us well. I could just magnet mount mine nextdoor to your Parsec antenna on the TV! The Pepwave router has the WAN input too and has the SW logic to seamlessly switch between Internet sources.

@rideandfly are the diameters of the pistons and shafts the same?

Thank you @Townesw. I appreciate your pictures and will check that. Yes, we certainly had water in the FWT, filled 2 days before using the boondocking port, filling the FWT from the extra tank in our TV, at our previous camp. Our tank only fills to 20 +/- gallons due to the tank issue in the older hulls (not yet warranty repaired by OTT). Between camps, we drove 165 miles, parked and this was the next morning. You would think if water was going to come out of the overflow it would be while on the road, water in the tank sloshing back and forth. We used water for dinner, bathroom during our stay and Chris was doing breakfast dishes while this was leaking. I'm trying to figure out, how would the overflow tub have any water in it to leak through this fitting? Thanks again.

Thanks @rideandfly agree they are different builds. Hoping the internal seals and other components are superior. Time will tell. Those of you with these, going on long trips this season, please inspect your shocks afterwards to see if there are any leaks. They can only be better! 😂

I understand the several weep holes around the perimeter of the Oliver are designed to drip water to remove condensate, but how much is normal? This picture was taken at 10 AM on a sunny day at a campground north of I-40 in dry Arizona. You can see the 3 water spots. The center one for the fridge had twice the volume of water than the two weep holes. Chris was cleaning up breakfast dishes and I noticed this when breaking camp outside and took this picture. My first thought was a leak in the kitchen plumbing. I have read here that some of you in other climates have condensation issues, talk of dehumidifiers. In the SW, this time of year is the windy-dry season, and we run 4 large humidifiers! I had not witnessed any moisture on windows during our trip, or down below when I worked upgrade projects, and the wet bath dries in minutes after a shower. Is this normal, or should I check the plumbing under the kitchen sink?

Very nice! Of course, magnet mounts won't hold to fiberglass. The video mentions other options. You wrote "semi-permanent attachment." Not permanent? Long cable run up to the front. Did you consider mounting it somewhere in the rear or even on the AC cover? I imagine it doesn't weigh very much at all. I see why you suggested a flat roof in another post! 😂

Ours is a 2001, so much older, but also just over 160K miles. First thing I did was to rebuild the entire suspension (ball joint, bushings, etc.) and steering and 4 Bilstein shocks. I'd say 100K miles or so and 10 years max for TVs. A 2003 Ram 2500 we had for years, one day had a banging sound under the hood while driving. Turns out the top shock mount was like yours, no rubber, just metal. These OEM Oliver shocks however, seem to go too quickly. Waiting to hear if the Bulldog is truly a different build.

Save the frustration and some $$$. Buy from Tire Rack or Simple Tire and have them shipped to a shop of your choice, or one of their installers. Both of these companies offer 2-year damage protection and DT charges $35 (each) or more. I recently purchased tires for our TV from Simple Tire and one of their listed installers was a local repair shop we frequent. Two years ago, I purchased tires from Tire Rack and one of their listed installers was the Pep Boys just down the street. I saved considerable $$$ on both purchases and much more if you are considering buying DT "certificates" (damage insurance). I've found more than one DT location, where there 20-something sales guys act like your stupid (like telling you must have ST tires) and I've left the store twice for this reason (not again). The only plus I see for DT is if you lose a tire when away from home.

Also, you want to clean up all the excess grease after every lube job. You can see in the pics above how grease left there previously collects more dirt. In the pic below, clean Zerk caps were fitted on clean Zerks.

It may be the photo, but the shackle looks bent. If so, perhaps that side was overtightened. BTW, number of threads will vary rig to rig and even left to right, since for them to be exactly the same, the installation point of the rear brackets must be identical which likely is not the case. I always check the tension a few blocks down the road. Drive exactly straight for a say 100 yards, stop and check. You want the tension to feel tight, not overly tight. I kick each side and watch the vibration, and even listen to the pitch of each chain (must have good ears). Like a guitar string, shorter vibration stroke or higher pitch is tighter. Try to even out the tension regardless of number of threads, but once you get it down you should know how many threads works for you on each side.

Not sure about the Cradlepoint product. I installed a Pepwave router and in their brochure the suggest a Starlink connection through the WAN input. I imagine it depends on the automatic switching capabilities of the router. However, 2018 is a bit old in router-years!

I will add that if the total assembly is 60-70 LBS, and you ride nicer suburban roads/eastern Interstates, you should be OK. Keep in mind that in the Jeep picture shown above, the single mounting bolt is mounted to a steel frame, not fiberglass. We just got back from 2 1/2 weeks, from here and throughout SW Utah. We would hit a cattle grate on a side road and even a simple bridge seam on a major US Hwy, and the TV and TT would bounce heavily! You try to see them coming but it will look fine and then bounce hard.

Whoa, Pilgram! 🤣 Did you look at what/where the spare tire bolt is connected? This design has the weight of 1-2 bikes on one (1) threaded bolt! What is it, just a 1/2" bolt? Came back from our last trip and the spare fiberglass housing was loose, the large, winged nut to hold the spare was also loose many turns. This bolt is designed to hold up the spare upright while its weight is held by the frame below. I'm not crawling into the Oliver basement/trunk to see what is supporting the main bolt for the spare, but you certainly should do so before you go on a Rocky Mountain excursion, or anywhere else. It may look good in the driveway but as a seasoned engineer, and 45 years a car mechanic, I'm not seeing it! Do you due diligence. The downside would be your precious bikes and spare tire bouncing down the highway, leaving a hole in the Oliver fiberglass hull the size of the bolt head and washer, or whatever support bracket may be there. To boot, ask anybody here, I'm more the risk-taking person, but I would not risk this! When you lose your bikes, you will not know it until your next stop. Keep on checking, keep that one wing-nut tight. Actually, the tighter you make that bolt, the more likely it will bust the fiberglass. This would drive me crazy! Certainly, I can be wrong, we all are at times. Please let us know what you experience. BTW, welcome to our Forum! God Speed and best wishes. JD

So, two members have purchased the Dexter brand 2400 LB springs and more than 10 of us have purchase the Alcan product, rated at 2750 LBS. When I upgrade, it's Alcan for sure! It's not that everything made in China is bad, just literally millions of MADE IN CHINA products are of extremely poor quality (go ahead and take your chance on your $100K investment). The marketing slogan is Better-Faster-Cheaper though they often forget the first word is BETTER! When give choice, I will NEVER purchase from the CCP and will pay hundreds more for first choice MADE IN USA and second choice ANYTHING BUT CHINA. I need a bumper sticker that SCREAMS this sediment. I believe I also wrote this on page 6, or maybe it was page 9, no 12! I'll bet this thread hits 20 pages... The design of the Alcan has the second leaf fully extended to the full length of the main leaf. @ScubaRx just wrote it clearly in B&W, @MAX Burner mentioned it at least twice and I wrote of it before. No brainer, this is the cause of failure. Good ol' Dexter can make a heavier spring, but not a better one. EOF

We made two more stops getting us back home. After the 24 hours of 50 MPH winds it was nice to get to a relaxing place. BTW, there is a large boondocking location just north of Lake Meade NRA and Valley of Fire SP on Northshore Rd SH-169. Would have stopped there, but it is on high ground and was still quite windy. We remembered from the way up that there was another campground at Callville Bay. Two weeks before it was in the 90s, so we stayed at the Trailer Village (ugly, but full hookups). The weather was much cooler this time and we stayed at the campground. They have about 50 nice campsites and they only had a 1-2 campers. We took site 30 with the view of Lake Meade. I covered our next stop, in an "We saw an Ollie" post. We found Grand Canyon Caverns campground on old US HWY 66 just past Peach Springs AZ and to our surprise the only other camper at the campground was an Ollie! The campground was a bit run down, way past its heyday! There was no attendant, office locked when we arrived about 5PM. WE asked in the restaurant, no answer. Left leisurely late morning and still nobody to pay for our night. All we did was park and level, spend the night without their hookups anyway. The next morning another hour down Route-66, then an hour down US-89 and we were back home. Chris and I really enjoyed our first real Oliver excursion, finding nice stops along the way!

From the order of your steps, it appears you got more gray water in the black, than vice versa. As others have said, not a big deal. Never tried Dawn in the tanks, though Dawn is great for so many cleaning purposes it does get very sudsy (laundry detergent is less sudsy). This company has cleaning videos, and we use the solution they suggest. The Pine-Sol is a disinfectant and the Calgon Pearls are a lubricant for the valve seals. Get Kleen Tank's exclusive RV tank solution recipe I like rinsing the tanks with just volumes of water. Use the black tank fill port and connect to City Water and run the sinks. Afterwards when rinsed and empty, we put a 1/2 cup of this solution in the black and a gallon water (fill the bowl 3 times). For the gray, add a cup of solution with 2 gallons water. Not too much water in each since we will travel this way and not drain these small amounts and just use the tanks as-is. If you smell Pine-Sol in your coach, you either left some in a sink trap or you have a gray plumbing vent that is not sealing.

Sorry I did not notice this a month ago... I and others would have read your post sooner if it was listed under Campers and Ollie Modifications. Houghton and Honeywell being mods. Also, many would not know the answer. Thermostat cables generally have 5-6 wires, and each one has a designation. I have a whole spool of 6-wire thermostat cable. One colored wire is for fan, furnace, A/C, heat strip, etc. You need to find the wiring diagrams for both products, the Houghton and then the Honeywell.

We have Brooklyn Bedding of Phoenix AZ, at home. It's a Cali-king in our MBR and their high-end unit that cannot be rolled and shipped. It's the best bed we've ever owned. We bought a queen from them for a Bigfoot Class-C, it was excellent! Last year we bought these single mattresses for our Oliver, just last fall: Dreamfoam Essential - RV (rvmattress.com) We tossed out the "OTT upgraded mattress" (OMG terrible) gave one away on Craigs FREE Stuff and the other my son keeps for his buds that stay the night. They are rectangular (no radius end), but they fit as-is, only being a little tight on the outside corner. A summer project for me is to use an insulation knife to cut a radius into one corner, but I may just leave it alone, TBD. We went with the 10" mattress since it was the first level that has 3 different layers of foam, from hard at the base to soft at the body. A 10" mattress does make the bed are high, if you have the need to sit there. They have 6" to 14", take your pick. For less than $1K you get two amazing mattresses ship to your location, in two boxes. 😂

Even my wife's blow-dryer does not cause interference like that (though I installed a high-end Samsung monitor). If it only happens with the hearing aids, and no other device, then they are the cause. Just a bad product? Defective unit, then get a warranty replacement. I would not wear them until you know more.

I forgot about the custom axle length. That does complicate matters. What you’re doing could be me next year. An OTT visit tied in with the 2025 Rally, get my FWT fixed too like you. Are you doing the CGI Detailing too? I’m getting rather jealous of Casablanca #226. You know that’s 2x hull #113!