jd1923

Simplicity in design is something I live by, so the goal is, beyond new batteries and inverter, to reuse everything else possible and not add any unnecessary cables, switches, buses, display screens or the like. Every additional connection adds resistance and possible points of failure. Mine is a minimum viable design (KISS). Getting the batteries positioned was my first task, since their purchase was the start of this project! The Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries at 13 ½” long fit nicely sideways in the 14x21” battery tray. They are 7.3” wide, so there is a lot of space that I’ve filled with some 2x3” stock and rubber toolbox liner, both items I had on-hand. Given the snug fit, I do not believe they need a tie-down strap. They’re not going anywhere! Originally, I thought I would have a breaker and shunt in the battery bay and later decided all could be installed in the interior. I reused the 4/0 cables that OTT had installed but drilled a new hole for the B- cable to go directly rear to the new inverter location under the streetside bed. The B+ cable will be routed to the original Blue Seas ANL mount. I made a new 4/0 cable about 4’ long to get from the fuse assembly to the rear-mounted inverter. I was thinking Class-T fuse but decided to save the money and just buy the Victron specified 400A ANL fuse mounted in the OEM housing. Kept the original 250A fuse as a backup that would work for everything but running the A/C. I've cut battery weight near in half, and they sit further in as well. Don’t these batteries look great and there is nothing that can go wrong here. I’ll check them once or twice and then hope to keep this bay locked for years to come without worry!

I got a lot done this week! 🤣 In introduction, our 2016 Hull #113 has roof-mounted 340W Zamp solar, and had a 2KW Xantrex inverter (only with separate PD4000 converter) and 450AH 6V lead-acid batteries renewed in 2021. Given a recent price reduction and a 10% off sale with free shipping, we were motivated to purchase two Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries for a total of 600AH and it made sense to upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger at the same time. Everything described to follow came to $3200 total investment including all small parts and the costs of many on-hand shop materials. Just two years ago, the cost of the LiFePO4 batteries alone would be nearly double! First, all the old had to be removed. Demolition is always fun first step in a project! I removed the lead-acid batteries (sold them on Craigs in just a few days) and all the cables, the Inverter, the ATS and junction box. It’s crazy how OTT wired shore power to inverter power, using wire nuts in this junction box, real backyard mechanic stuff (correct design would be to use a dual-bus power panel). Everything in these pics has been removed (anybody need a 2kW Xantrex system or spare parts)? The second crazy thing is where they installed the main DC fuse (see pic). No way would I have known it's up there until I removed the cables! To access this fuse, you have to sit low reaching through the rear dinette seat.

Yes, for sure! I like the simple tool better because the two discs are easy to wipe clean. Less money too. I've had mine for 40 years now. One disc is cracked and it still works. I should likely get a new one: 65250 Universal Bearing Packer | Lisle Corporation

I’m in your minority! ANY NLGI No. 2 grease, all rated 450F+ is as good as the others. I like mine for $7 a tube, worked well on 5 brake jobs so far. Otherwise it’s just brand preference. More important than brand is the quality of service, packing bearings tight with no air pockets. Spend the extra money on this tool: https://a.co/d/8ou3Qai

Mike @rideadeuce so you’ve been an Oliver owner for 7 years? (If bought new). OMG, what you have done re mods in just the last year. My humble respect. Great project and professional installation. This model has a similar attribute to the Isotherm, in that it has a very small freezer. Are there any modern RV compressor fridges with a large freezer? For us we would give up 2 CF of fridge space for 1 CF of freezer. We have this old, inefficient absorption fridge that has a freezer the width of the fridge and we use every square inch. Hope it keeps working. Great work! Can’t wait to read re your next project!

I've been wondering... Some have reported that when upgrading to the Alcan spring it has increased ride height up to an inch and that there is more travel in the leaf spring. Should a replacement shock allow for the greater travel? The Monroe 555001 is the OEM spring. Monroe also has the 555025 model, which is the same overall yet slightly longer with greater stroke. I copied these specs from the 4statetrucks website, as Bulldog has aftermarket replacements for both models: Shock Specs 555001 555025 Compressed (in) 7.95 8.66 Extended (in) 11.97 13.35 Stroke (in) 4.02 4.69 Perhaps those who have installed Alcan springs can chime in? @Mountainman198 @MAX Burner @ScubaRx and @rideadeuce Did the shocks installed appear the correct length or would it allow for +3/4" in compressed length and +3/4"stroke be a better fit? Sure, the OEM length fit, but would +3/4" in stroke allow the slightly taller springs to perform without constraint? When I get the chance to make this upgrade, I would take before and after measurements on one side prior to ordering (let her sit on jacks stands a couple days to get the right part). I'm figuring 3/4" longer should be better. This has been a discussion on other TT forum websites. Stronger spring rate in the shock would also be preferred although Monroe does not list these specs. Either way I would choose Bulldog over the Monroe OEM brand. Bulldog describes their products as a "High Quality Aftermarket Replacement Part (Not OEM)." This is the ~+3/4" longer version: Bulldog HD RV Shock Absorber Replaces 555025 For Trailer Leaf Spring Retro Kit - 4 State Trucks

Wish I could be there to help! Never witnessed a defect condition that would swap the hot and neutral readings. A faulty neutral makes some sense, but how does that happen when sitting at a campsite? Certainly replace the main 30A breaker. I would bypass it as a quick test, but I would not suggest this to anybody but a trained electrician. Too bad you do not have an inverter, as you could unplug from shore power and run on battery. I’m reading here daily to see if I can help, yet it’s difficult to troubleshoot virtually. Godspeed and wishes!

That's great! If you decide to run these wires, fish down vs. up. Not a big deal since it is just as easy to pull the fridge vent on the exterior. Once you get temp set, there is not much need to change it, with one exception. When 12VDC is turned off to the controller it must be reset when reconnected. Yes, good observation. We refill ice trays only after dinner and the less you open the fridge door in the heat of the day, the better. During afternoons, I will grab a cold bottle of water quickly and shut the door!

Agree 100%. These external sensors are some better than in other RVs. We just know how many days the gray and black will last and have extra fresh tank in the TV. We don’t use the readout.

I bought a ten-pack of this 3 years ago and on my 5th tub. Was $7 a tub then, $8 now: https://a.co/d/1t6lys3 I go with brand names at times, but not at 4x cost! This company has good reviews and it’s as good or better than any grease I’ve used, in 45 years of doing brake jobs, where I always pack bearings. Use this in all our vehicles and Oliver bearings and stabilizer jacks. Even better deal if you can get a friend or neighbor to split a case with you!

... anything at all. Agreed Outlaw! I like the open-mindedness of Tucker's neighbor in testing the truck. The thing pulls like an SOB, but not much else in positive attributes. Loved the video and it makes me want to pull our Oliver all the way to the great state of Maine. It would give me an opportunity to meet up with my friend @connor77 and perhaps other forum members. Let's hit the ball soon, Kevin! Tucker is great and Elon is a genius, but I've not seen a Tesla that I think is a good-looking vehicle.

The Zerk is threaded into the bolt. Likely a 8 or10mm wrench to remove it. Or you can take a center punch and just see if you can push the little ball valve.

Front of TV is always the better solution! You have them with you when detached and the extra front weight counter-balances the hitch weight. Anybody with a 1.5” hitch want to buy an OTT built 2” hitch? PM me and I could bring it to the Texas Rally.

Just ran across this video tonight. Another side of Tucker Carlson on TCN. Love his neighbor and the relaxed rural setting. This thing can haul! (for 100 miles) Where's the truck bed? 🤣

Not much can help while towing in that heat! It will help more when the air it pulls is some degrees lower than in the cavity behind the fridge. Read this post too -

It truly takes a fatal error to blow a 300A fuse (like connecting the battery lead to ground)! You would notice it for sure and generally the inverter would error and shut down first. These are cheap China made breakers, regardless of brand name. I’m surprise OTT uses these for the inverter charger. They used to use ANL or better Class T fuses. The breaker itself is most likely your issue. You can replace it with same brand for $76 on Amazon, or other brands for $20+. I just purchased 2 Class T fuses and holder for $120 plus tax.

Seems like OTT has a different manufacturing or finishing process for the doghouse. Interested in their response. Ours looks no worse since our front end gelcoat is quite oxidized, more flat not glossy.

When we had a Class-C always fighting GVWR, we kept the water low and it had a 60-gal tank. I would empty for a steep mountain climb too. We are so far below GVWR on both TT and TV it’s never been a concern. We’ve got one of the old hulls with the Fresh Tank plumbing issue where we only get about 18-gal out of it. Must have the 35-gal tank in the TV. Keep them both full wherever reliable water is available, which is not everywhere in the SW! If bad weather comes in or a breakdown, I want to be able to camp/park anywhere comfortably for days.

Go back to page 1-2 and look at the picture of the failed steel, poorly hardened. Buying heavier but same level of quality IMHO is asking for the same failure. i was first of the belief these would be too heavy. When I can, I’ll go with the new product @Mountainman198 brought to our attention and @MAX Burner, @ScubaRx and several others have proven to improve ride and dependability! it’s similar to replacing a Dometic A/C with another. 🤣

A “growing number” or just you John? We’ve heard you a good 3-4 times. I’m against the Tesla Cybertruck, so after a comment or two, I stopped and haven’t kept up on that thread in months. It’s just not for me and this is not for you, no value-add in repeated comments. Buy the leaf springs you want and start a new thread!

Correct, I had the same question. A member of the Victron Community Forum posted, 110 is manufactured in Malaysia, the 120 from India, otherwise the same model. I purchased the 120 and it does state made in India.

Though it appears the F150 EV weighs as much as a F250. I’d rather have the extra weight in HD suspension components.

Welcome to the New Green **** (scam). Weight is only one of many factors. The manufacturing pollution created in China is X times the life of the carbon emissions of average ownership duration. I’ve kept MANY combustion-engine vehicles over 10-20 years. There is considerable savings in that, to the environment and pocketbook! Always love when I see a used hybrid at a dealer or on Craig’s! Excellent condition, but 6-8 years old. Get ready for the cost of new batteries! Very soon the marketplace will have thousands of EVs, not worth 20% of new. Cars, trucks, yard and power tools… I’ll keep my 20+ combustion engines on our property. And I can rebuild them with my own two hands! I say this as I install 600AH LiFePO4 in our Oliver. This is where it belongs; RV, boat and home. BTW, our electric bill is up at least 30% this summer. Natural gas in AZ, still reasonable (likely not in NE for either). Sorry for the diatribe! Hoping for new policies in the new year… Pray, hope.

Thanks Mike! Not using the OEM fuse holder, given it’s ANL and mounted in a ridiculous location! Just checked the MP2 manual and it states using a 400A fuse. Just purchase this fuse: https://a.co/d/4D4H2ok and this holder: https://a.co/d/0015iEi I went with the “ignition protected” unit, not that an Oliver has an ignition but for $20 more you get a snap-closing case and heavy weight terminals. @rideadeuce given my research, you should get a 400A Class T fuse as a backup if your 300A ever blows. The 500s in the Epoch batteries will never blow given a lower rated fuse closer to the load. Thx

We moved from Austin to S FL, packed Nov 2014, all household belongings in a large cargo trailer. Stored the trailer and Chris’ car in Sherman TX where Adam went to college. Then drove our truck to our Prescott home for Thanksgiving ’til after New Years. Headed back to Sherman to drop Adam at school. Hooked up and I towed while Chris tagged behind all the way to WPB. It made everything easier! Find a secure gated storage and next thing you know you’ll be back there. We’re thinking after I get all my Oliver mods done and enough SW travel, we may head up to Idaho and find a good NW home base for new travels. Love the camp and seeing new things, not fond of long highway travel!