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I have a Voyager back up camera and monitor that I use with my truck camper. The Ollie we are buying doesn’t have that option, and I’d like to have one. Cameras are available for the system, and I am thinking about placing one on the rear cargo box, with the ability to move it to the spare tire cover. Power would be from the running light circuit. Has anyone located their camera there? Thoughts?

It always bothered me especially when getting ready to use the shower the amount of cold water coming out of the faucet and heading to the grey water tank. So when Overland put up a post back on January 3 titled Truma Comfort Plus via Modification, it got me thinking. I went out to the Oliver and tested actually how long and how much water was being used before getting hot water to the faucet. My results were 14 seconds and a volume of one quart and I thought that's not that bad. But then why does it bother me when I'm standing there waiting and then I think about how I'm just transferring my fresh water to the grey water tank and how many gallons go this way during a camping trip. So for the next week the subject was percolating in my mind and I came up with some ideas and settled on what I thought would be feasible solution. I installed a normally closed solenoid operated stainless steel water valve. I made a bracket out of stainless steel that I attached to the valve and then utilized the four bolts that were protruding through the front of the camper that help secure the cover for the propane tanks. I installed a tee in the hot water supply line just in front of the faucet and run 1/2" pex between it and the valve. Next I ran 1/2" line following the black tank drain pipe towards the back of the trailer and crossing over to the curb side and then teeing in to the line that fills the fresh water tank. Next I planed on putting a switch to operate the valve next to the switch that is mounted on the vanity towel rack that operates the water pump. I wanted to avoid standing there and holding the switch so I found a programmable multi function time delay relay module UCTRONICS model U6030 to allow me to accomplish this. This module is inexpensive about $12.99 but is very flexible ,it has 18 programmable delay modes with two settable timers. The static current is just 5.5 mA. I wanted this module to only be powered up when the water pump was turn on so I brought power from the water pump relay, this way both switches activated the module. This module also needs to have a 12 volt power supply to operate the water valve, so I ran a wire from a unused slot in the fuse box under the dinette, the valve draws 1 1/2 amps. I was a little worried about getting the module programmed for my needs, we all know how Chinese instructions are poor due to the language translations, but it went really well. IMG_1387.MOV I mounted the module in a 4"x4" waterproof box and put that under the front dinette seat,that way I had access to it in case I need to change programming. The last picture is of the vanity and the switches for the water pump and the water diverter valve. I used a waterproof switch I had and I plan on replacing it with a smaller easier to push model. I'm happy with the way it works, flip the water pump on then push the other switch and release, you hear the water pump start and run for 15 seconds, it will shut off and you have hot water at the faucet.

@rideandfly Nice work Bill - thinking outside the battery box! Looking good! Patriot 🇺🇸

Today I received the first initial production mount of the new Honda eu3200i security mounting system. This came after weeks of collaboration, exchanging measurements and photos, emails and phones calls with fittingdesignsco@gmail.com. Note: You will need to modify your cargo box to use the key to unlock the puck mount. This will require drilling a hole in the side of the cargo box in order for the key to be inserted to unlock the puck mount. The base plate of the mount will also need to be be bolted down in the cargo box. I will add additional photos of mounting this gen security system when we return home from the rally. The unit pricing is $375.00 plus tax shipped to the lower 48. If interested, please contact the company at 530-913-2271 if you have further questions or wish to place an order. Patriot🇺🇸 More install photos to come.

I recently had my original gas regulator die on Hull 505. I wasn't paying close attention when I ordered the replacement and ended up ordering one with a lower BTU Rating. The original Hull 505 part - GR-9984XF with 345,000 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I should have ordered. The replacement part - GR-9994XF has 262,500 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I have now sitting in a box. Since I learned of my error, I've ordered the original part and left the other new in the original box. I can't return it as the time's expired for exchange. Net Result: I have a NEW in Box GR-9994XF sitting in my garage. I'm wondering if the GR-9994XF would work as a spare for those of you with newer trailers that no longer have the Gas Fridge? If you're interested in the unit...send me a private message and we can work out details. Craig Short

Recently, my inverter stopped working and wouldn't power on. Here is what I found so far (long story, feel free to skip and go to installation section below) The trailer was parked in at my property with shore power and the inverter was working when we were back from camping trip a few weeks ago. Over the weekend we found that the breaker was tripped and narrow it down to problem with the inverter. When on shore power, either the breaker at the shore power or main breaker underneath the dinette seats would trip unless switched the breaker of the inverter to off. The inverter screens didn't show anything for both remote and on the inverter itself located under the street side bed. When not on shore power, inverter didn't power on. Checked the voltage at the DC positive and negative terminal at the inverter using digital multi-meter and confirmed that there's ~13V at the terminal. Tried to reset the inverter by cutting DC power using the 2 red button switches near the inverter and confirmed using digital multi-meter that there was no DC at the terminal. This also didn't work. The inverter wouldn't power on when restoring power to it. I decided to submit a ticket and Jason and I agreed that there's an issue with the inverter itself and I had to contact Xantrex. After submit a ticket to Xantrex, the technician recommended updating firmware and that didn't help. Xantrex agreed to send me a new one because it's still under 2 year warranty. Installation I got most of the information below from Oliver and it's specific to my 2021 LE2, please contact Oliver to confirm if you have a different model year. Disconnect Shore Power from the camper. Flip the 30A Main Breaker to the OFF position (located in the AC Breaker box under the Dinette) Flip the 25A Breaker for the Inverter to the OFF position. Trip the 200 or 300A Inverter Breaker located under the street side bed access panel area. The breaker is located up & under next to the side of the battery box. Remove the inverter cover in order to gain access to the wire connections. The 120V wires on located on the left with the 12V connections on the right, pictured below. Once the cover is removed you will need to disconnect all 4 wiring connections inside the inverter. As a precautionary measure, do not let the wires contact each other. With shore power removed & the Inverter breaker tripped there shouldn't be any power but it is best to be safe just in case you got in a hurry and skipped or missed a step. Make note of the 120V Wires once you disconnect for which one is the AC In and which one is the AC Out Disconnect the ground wire located on the top edge of the inverter. Remove the screws securing the inverter to the white AP1 board. There are two screws located on the bottom and two located on the top. You may see other screws that are securing the wires to the white board but it is not necessary to remove them when replacing the inverter unless you are installing new wires. See screws pictured below as reference. Follow the steps in reverse to install the new inverter. Mount the inverter on the white board & secure with the 4 screws Connect the ground wire Connect the 12V Wires. Red is positive & Black is Negative. Connect the 120V Wires. Be sure to connect the AC In & AC Out wires correctly. Reinstall the cover Reset the Inverter Breaker by pressing the leg by in. Turn inverter on at the inverter itself (not the remote display) and verify 12V to 120V operation through the inverter. Turn the inverter off at the inverter Flip the 30A Main & 25A Inverter breakers back to the ON position. Connect shore power to the camper and verify charge state through the charger to the batteries. It may take a minute or two for it to engage. Once the inverter has been installed you will need to check the settings and set it based on your battery type The only settings that are changed by the Oliver factory are: #02 ,#05, #20, #24 & #28, based on your options, and are in bold font below Xantrex Customer Support: 800-670-0707 Oliver Service Department: 888-526-3978

A few years ago, generators were all over our forum. Nearly all portable generators were of standard Motor/Generator design. I refer to them and my Dometic Penguin AC as "Hammer Mills". Then Honda came out with their inverter line. Super quiet, fuel efficient, and their EU 2000 watt unit with an EzStart would run our A/C units. The vast majority of us purchased the Honda inverter 2000 or 2200 units. But they were, and are pricy. Time has passed and most of us still have the Hondas that you could not pry out of our dead hands. But much less costly Champion, Yamaha and Predator inverters (to name a few) have come into play. With the OTT production rate acceleration, I suspect we have many new owners that likely would likely benefit from a revival of the topic. This thread is intended to hear from our owners their thoughts about their generator. Please touch upon the below as well as your experiences: Generator Name and Model Cost of Purchase Power Output (Rated Full Load) Ability to handle our A/C cycling while switched to "Eco-Mode". Please specify if you have an 11K BTU or 13.5K BTU A/C. Decibels idle and full power Ease of use Maintainability Reliability Durability Number of seasons used Thank you! GJ

After installing my Honda 3200i generator security basket in the Oliver cargo tray. I decided to get a little creative and add a 3 gal rotopax spare fuel container. (Not a fan of gas fumes in our truck bed under the camper topper). I made sure to leave 5.5” of width between the rear cargo tray and the gen during the security install to accommodate the 5” wide roto pax. This allowed the 5” wide rotopax to fit comfortably in this space. You can just barely see the rotopax in the full front photo. Now I am waiting on the custom heavy duty gen cover I ordered for the 3200i to finish this mod. ⚡️Power On!⚡️ Happy Camping! A video dem of the 3200i running in the security basket from last Thursday. IMG_8731.mov

Has anyone purchased the new HONDA 3200i that has a Truma AC unit? It is rated at 3200 surge and 2800 continuous power. Will it run the AC?

MAX Burner I checked out the fan on-line and see that it comes with different height extensions. What extension did you use? Did you find the model number from the box?

The LED is surprisingly bright - 50 to 60 watt equivalent? I'll check the box it came in for the model number.... MAXXFAN Dome Plus w/LED - WHITE. Cheers!

Any one install a rear hitch. I want to put a generator in the back.

Today is a gorgeous 76 degree Western North Carolina day. And a really good cool, breezy day to install this new gen security mount - https://fittingdesignsco.com/products/generator-lock-security-low-profile-mount-honda-generator-mount-predator-generator-mount-camping-travel-mount-truck-mount Here are a few install photos. I measured and cut a piece of 3/4” thick rubber horse stall mat to serve as an additional vibration isolator. The install was straightforward using all stainless fasteners. Due to the length of the 3200i and the design of the security tray, this was the only installation configuration I was happy with. Overall, I am really pleased with how it turned out. This is the tray with the puck lock, which is bolted to the bottom of the generator. When you unlock the puck, the tray lifts out of the generator basket. The basket in the next photo is the basket that receives the tray and then the tray is locked into place with the puck lock. Do to the length of the 3200i and security tray it required a hole to be drilled to allow full key access to the puck lock. (Warning do not loose your keys!!!!) I still need to finish sand off the fresh edges of the key hole. I have ordered a custom made heavy duty cover with our Hull # on it for the 3200i from www.coversandall.com. This should arrive in a week or so. Presently Honda does not sell a cover for the 3200i. This custom cover will be much more robust than the Honda light weight covers. This is where the gen will live. Patriot🇺🇸

I am not an electrician, I don’t play one on TV and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express, so please keep it simple for my simple mind. I have been reading the forum for a few days and I have found posts that talk about and around using a generator solely for charging the Ollie batteries. Is using a generator solely for charging the Ollie batteries a good idea? My objective is to have as small a dual fuel generator as possible, while I am off shore-power to compensate or complement for the 400 Watt solar panels. My larger objective is to be as untethered as possible while traveling. I don’t want to go to a bigger generator to run Ollie in full or partial mode. My Oliver Elite II is on order. It is coming with 390 AH Lithium batteries, 400 Watt Solar panels with charge controller and 3,000 Watt Pro inverter. Is there any special request I need to make to Oliver to create a plug from the generator to the battery to make the connection as clean and simple as possible? Dumb question time – Why couldn’t the generator power enter the battery system via the external solar panel connection?

This is one that I puchased a couple of years ago. Works great. I think that it's a bit louder than advertised and it's not a lightweight! I use it with propane fuel. I am going to build a collapsible box with sound deadening material to fit around it for use on the road. I bought it on sale at Costco for $599.00 Dual Fuel Inverter Portable Generator 4000W Electric Start with CO ALE – FIRMAN Power Equipment

Just some trivia for a discussion topic. I’ve been looking to purchase a small inverter generator to carry on long extended camping road trips, and in comparing specs and reviews, the Honda series consistently comes out as a top choice (but pricey!). One interesting detail is the engine displacement comparison. The Honda has a significantly larger engine for the given wattage compared to the lower cost competitors. Probably explains a lot about the reliability and noise advantages of the Honda. The larger gas engine just doesn’t have to work as hard. Couldn’t find any any info on the engine horsepower ratings of each brand though. Maybe it’s on the data plate on the unit itself (there’s a direct relationship between engine horsepower and potential maximum wattage of the generator). Larger engine displacement typically means more torque, and more torque means lower RPM needed to achieve a particular horsepower. HP= torque in lb-ft x RPM/5252 1 HP=33,000 lb-ft/min=746 watts Comparison: Home Depot Ryobi 2300 watt - 79cc. ——— Harbor Freight Predator 2000 watt - 79cc. ——— Honda EU2200i 2200 watt - 121cc. ——— Champion 2500 watt - 79cc. ——— WEN 2500 watt - 80cc. ——— Craftsman 2500 watt - 98cc. ———

Speaking of generators and the front storage box, ideas for security. Ideas for locking down a Honda 2000 or 2200?

Summary I have installed a rear mounted cargo carrier, with lights, to our 2022 Oliver Legacy Elite II (LEII) travel trailer. We recently completed a two week, ~2000 mile trip, using the cargo carrier, which performed flawlessly. Below are photos of the installed cargo carrier, which are followed by a detailed description of its installation. Storage Constraints Prior to ordering our Oliver Legacy Elite II (LEII) travel trailer I knew we would need additional storage space on the trailer. We are using a 2014 BMW X5 35d (diesel) as our tow vehicle, rather than a pickup truck. Thus, we could not plan to use the pickup bed for supplemental storage. We also needed to stay within the tow vehicle's cargo capacity of 1100 lbs and maximum tongue weight of 600 lbs.. Expecting a tongue weight of approximately 500 lbs. plus two occupants at approximately 300 lbs, we could only accommodate a maximum of 300 lbs. of other cargo. The available payload will be partially used by our camera gear, which must be protected from exposure to moisture. A tongue mounted cargo carrier was not viable, given the tongue weight limit for the tow vehicle. Storage Requirements I anticipated needing additional storage space for the following items: Champion Dual Fuel Generator- 2500 watt (~45 lbs.) (too large for basement storage) Napoleon TravelQ™ 285 Portable Propane Gas Grill and hose (~35 lbs.) (too large for basement storage) Anderson Ultimate Leveling kit (~25 lbs) Harbor Freight rubber chocks (4) (~20 lbs.) Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports (3) (~10 lbs.) Miscellaneous accessories All of these items can tolerate some exposure to moisture, which is likely when stored in any external cargo carrier. A closed and reasonably secure cargo carrier was needed. Searching the owners' forum, I found examples of rear cargo carriers/bike racks and found several examples, including: Oliver's original bike rack design using twin receivers and extending approximately 3 feet beyond the rear bumper; Various rear mounted metal cargo boxes, including custom designs; Rear mounting of an Oliver tongue cargo box by John E. Davies. I also looked extensively at aluminum cargo boxes from various manufacturers, trying to find options which could accommodate the cargo items listed above. I already owned a cargo carrier which we had used on the BMW X5 tow vehicle. This carrier has a heavy steel swing-away frame which mounts to a standard 2" receiver. Mounted on the steel frame are a polypropylene tray and an enclosed container with 13.5 cubic foot capacity. The tray and enclosed container interlock. This cargo carrier also is equipped with fully functional lights (running, brake, turn, flasher). Interlocking pins on the enclosed container mate with the tray. Locking latches secure the container to the tray. Solution Approach I decided to re-use the polypropylene tray and enclosed cargo container, but not the heavy steel frame. Instead, I would use a design similar to the original Oliver bike rack. I ordered the current optional Oliver bike rack when we placed our LEII order, planning to utilize some, but not all, of its components. The current Oliver rear hitch (photo below) utilizes twin receivers that are 11" long, constructed to receive 2" x 2" X 0.25" (wall thickness) T6061 aluminum square tube support arms, which are 17 inches long. The receivers are each mounted to the LEII frame by two long 0.5" diameter stainless steel bolts and nuts. The other components of the rack are a 2" x 5" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum cross-member, 51-1/8" long (with end caps), and a 1-1/4" receiver for connecting a bike rack. I planned to use the twin receivers, and the cross-member, but not the support arms, nor the 1-1/4" receiver. Instead, I would replace the 17" long original support arms with longer equivalents, whose length was to be determined. I would utilize the original 2" x 5" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum cross-member and add another cross member, this one 2" x 2" x 0.25" T6061 aluminum, also 51-1/8" inches long with end caps. The cross members would be bolted to the support arms, in the same manner as on the Oliver rear hitch. The tray and enclosed container from my existing cargo carrier would be mounted to the cross-members. Note the clevis pins circled in the photo below, there are two 0.50" diameter horizontal clevis pins securing the support arms in their receivers. Each clevis pin has a washer on either side of the receiver. Removing the clevis pins permits the support arms to be pulled to the rear, enabling removal of the spare tire cover and spare tire without dismount the support arms. Solution Model A critical dimension to be determined was the length of the 2" x 2" x 0.25" support arms. The new support arms need to be long enough to: Support the polypropylene tray and enclosed cargo box and attach using the molded mounting holes in the tray; Allow the lid of the enclosed cargo box to open without striking the spare tire cover; Permit removal of the spare tire cover and spare tire without removing the cargo carrier and support frame; Permit access to waste water hoses stored behind the bumper; Minimize the additional length of the cargo carrier and support frame to the LEII's length. I fabricated 2" x 2" wooden support arms, approximately 40" long. Using woodworking equipment, I cut slots into one end of each support arm to fit around the bolts holding the twin receivers to the frame. I also drilled horizontal holes for the clevis pins which retain the support arms in the receivers. Positioning the Cargo Carrier on the Cross-members The wooden support arms were inserted into the twin receivers and secured with the clevis pins. Then the 2" x 5" x 51.125" T6061 cross-member was placed across the support arms near the bumper. The additional 2" x 2" x 51.125" wooden cross-member, was also placed across the support arms, but further from the bumper. Clamps were used to hold the cross-members in place on the support arms. The polypropylene tray and enclosed container, latched together, were positioned on the cross-members, centering both to the trailer's width. I opened the lid of the enclosed container and adjusted the spacing (fore and aft) between the lid and the spare tire cover to ensure they did not contact each other. Once I had located the joined tray and enclosed container in what appeared to be a desirable position, I adjusted the positions of the cross-members fore and aft to establish alignment with the mounting holes in the tray. The 2" x 5" cross-member engages two mounting holes on each side of the tray. The 2" x 2" cross- member engages only one mounting hole on each side of the base of the tray. Six 5/16" carriage bolts will fasten the tray to the cross-members. Only four carriage bolts attached the tray to its original steel support frame. I used a mason's string stretched across the width of the tray with weights on either end to aid in aligning the mounting holes in the tray with the positions of the cross-members. I also used carpenter's squares to verify the cross-members were perpendicular to the support arms. Another check of squareness was made by measuring the distance from the trailer bumper to the cross-members. Once I was satisfied with the position of the tray and enclosed container on the support structure, I marked the locations for the holes to be drilled for the six mounting bolts to secure the tray to the cross-members. The tray overhangs the rear cross-member at the rear. With the cargo carrier tray and enclosed container in place on the clamped cross-members, I wanted to determine if the spare tire cover could be removed without removing the entire cargo carrier and support assembly. I found I could remove the clevis pins and pull the support arms aft approximately 7 inches out of the twin receivers and enable removal of the spare tire cover. With the tray and enclosed container positioned on the cross-members, I could now determine the required length of the support arms, which is 33.75 inches. The location of the rear cross-member determines the length of the support arms. After locating the mounting position of the tray and enclosed container I marked all key positions and hole locations on the wooden support arms and wooden rear cross-member. I cut the wooden support arms to the desired final length. Material Sourcing and Machining The required T6061 aluminum components required are: 2" x 2" x 0.25" x 33.75", square tube, quantity 2 (support arms), cost= $110.18 2" x 2" x 0.25" x 51.125", square tube, quantity 1 (cross-member), cost= to $99.08 2" x 12" x 0.125", flat bar, quantity 1 (to be cut into 2" squares for end caps on the support arms and rear cross-member), cost= $6.86 Sales tax= $17.83 No shipping charge. I picked up the materials at the local Metal Supermarkets warehouse Total cost= a $233.95 The above T6061 aluminum components, cut to specified length, were obtained from: Stainless steel bolts and nyloc nuts were obtained from: I was referred by Metal Supermarkets to a local machine shop: When I received the materials I took them and my wooden mockups of the support arms and cross-member to Air & Earth. I also took one of the original support arms. I discussed the machining needed: to cut the slots in one end of the support arms and to drill the needed 0.50 diameter holes for the clevis pins and mounting bolts. I also asked them to cut the 2" x 0.125" flat bar into 2" x 2" squares. I did not ask them to drill the smaller holes for mounting the cargo tray to the cross-members. I was quoted $220 and turnaround of the job within a week. They did an excellent job within the promised timeframe. Finishing and Assembly of the Support Structure After Air & Earth completed the requested machining, I performed the following finishing steps, which included: Rounding the edges of the 2" x 2" square tubing on the slotted end to be inserted into the receivers. I used a 3" wide belt sander with 100 grit sanding belts to round the corners of approximately 12" of the tube which would be inserted into the receivers . The original Oliver support arms also had the corners rounded to more easily slide within the receivers. Several trial fittings were required to verify smooth insertion and removal to/from the receivers. The support arms and the rear cross-member were sanded with an orbital sander using 200 grit disks. This sanding removed markings on the tubes and made the surface textured, similar to the Oliver rear hitch components. The support arms were inserted into their receivers and fastened with the clevis pins. The cross members were aligned with the mounting holes on the support arms and bolted into place. The cargo tray was positioned on the 2" x 5" cross-member at the previously determined mounting position and holes drilled to mount the cargo tray. Holes were then drilled in the 2" x 2" rear cross-member. Carriage bolts, flat washers and double jamb nuts were used to secure the cargo tray to the cross-members. Once all test fittings of the support assembly were completed, lithium grease was applied to the ends of the support arms which are inserted into the receivers. 2" x 2" x 0.125" caps were attached to the open ends of the support arms and the rear cross-member, similar to the end caps used by Oliver. These were attached to the square tubing using JB Weld epoxy. Cargo Carrier Lighting The cargo carrier partially blocks visibility to the taillights of the trailer, which is most noticeable when viewed from close behind the trailer. At a distance the taillights are largely visible. The cargo tray is fitted with two LED light fixtures and a wiring harness with a 4-pin flat connector. A corresponding 4-pin flat connector was installed on the LEII to integrate the lighting on the cargo carrier with the trailer lighting. Details of the installation of the 4-pin connector in the trailer are covered in a separate article. The lights on the cargo carrier ensure the trailer is quite visible from behind. A license plate mount was added to the cargo carrier tray, since the license plate mount on the spare tire cover is blocked by the cargo carrier. Lighting for the license plate mount is provided by adding a Y connector to the license plate light cable under the spare tire cover and adding an extension cable routed to the cargo tray mounted license plate mount. I also added reflective tape to the support frame members. I used the following reflective tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/your-account/order-history/ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_search?opt=ab&search=reflective Conclusion This addition to our trailer provides significant benefits, with no significant disadvantages. It does add approximately two feet to the length of the trailer. Besides the additional storage space, the cargo carrier and its load slightly reduces the tongue weight. I measured the tongue weight, using a Sherline scale, at 450 lbs., with no water onboard. Tongue weight seems sufficient, as no swaying or other handling issues have been observed. This project had a successful outcome due largely to the information I was able to glean from the Oliver Owners Forum. I hope this information is useful to others on the forum. Comments and suggestions welcome. Regards, Don

Oh so close. Looking for a good storage bin option for transporting the Honda EU2200i generator in the truck bed (with a bed cover) to keep things clean and organized. I don’t have the front Ollie basket, plus I want to keep the generator under the truck bed cover away from prying eyes. I tried one of my 24 gallon RubberMaid Action Packer bins and it’s ALMOST perfect for the generator, a 2 gallon RotoPax fuel container, and an extra quart of oil, with a PIG Mat in the bottom of the Action Packer to absorb any oil or gas drips (but I doubt the Honda will leak anything). Holds things nice and snug, EXCEPT for the height. The inside ribs on the double walled lid interfere with the generator handle and gas cap. Might be time to get out the knife and modify the lid by cutting away one full rib, and also adding a small vent hole in the lid for fume venting. Of course for running the generator it will be removed from the storage bin, and allowed to cool down before putting it back in the bin.

It appears that there is a 20% off sale going on now. https://fittingdesignsco.com/products/generator-lock-security-low-profile-mount-honda-generator-mount-predator-generator-mount-camping-travel-mount-truck-mount Patriot🇺🇸

A member sent me a pm a few weeks back, asking about the "quote" function. It is really useful to keep comments and replies in context with the right post, and it's used frequently, but some folks aren't experienced in using it. So, for "new to forums" members, here's a brief "how to." Two ways to use "quote" on my phone: Quote the entire post (which is sometimes too much), click on the quote button on the bottom of the post, and the software will open a new post for you. Easy peasy. You can delete part of the quoted post, as you wish... OR, on a phone or other touch screen, you can touch, hold, and highlight the section you wish to respond to, and then select quote (not copy), and a new reply box will open with your abbreviated quote.

I tried the heat gun idea, but it didn’t give enough clearance. That extra material has to go away completely. The Honda generator has a very large vented gas gap that needs all the height clearance possible. I ended up cutting away the inside top wall of the lid in one corner and that just barely gives enough height clearance for the generator gas cap. The generator handle fits between the ribs on the lid since the generator is offset to one side of the Action Packer (see photo in the original first post above). Now the lid does fit and latch closed. The outer lid surface remains intact.

That looks great, and should be a good strong deterrent . Nice little family company. (I looked them up. Thanks for the info.) https://fittingdesignsco.com/products/generator-lock-security-low-profile-mount-honda-generator-mount-predator-generator-mount-camping-travel-mount-truck-mount

I also posted on FB, but I like the forums best. I did search the forums, but didn't see the exact configuration complaint. Who has this AC outlets setup in their Oliver and what year is your TT? I have a 2016 Elite II and I just discovered that in the breaker panel there is no dedicated breaker for the 15 amp outlets around the trailer. I discovered this while replacing the outlet by the drivers side twin bed, inside the rear drawer cabinet. This new outlet has built-in USB-A & USB-C receptacles as well, for AC plugs. I have two GFCIs which protect all the 15 amp outlets in the trailer, including the microwave. The GFCI on the Xantrex inverter itself AND a GFCI under the dinette, across from the breaker box. This is fine, but I first searched the breaker panel like any sane person might do. #5 "110 outlets - 15A" SHOULD be the breaker, but it does not seem to do anything. "Now I know."

NEW JUNCTION BOX: This has literally been bugging me for five years, from the first time I saw a picture of the outlet mounted right below the faucet water supply hoses and the drain pipes. It is not even a GFCI outlet! If there is a water leak, it could be dangerous. Sorry for the rotated pics, some come through this way! Remove the two lower drawers by squeezing the orange release things, and lift up and out. Remove the flip out tray screws. Remove the tee piece (three long screws) and then the 1/8' plywood access panel. DISCONNECT SHORE POWER, double check to make sure these wires cannot be energized! Flip the main breaker to make sure! I measured the space and found that it is too tight to install a waterproof "in use" outlet cover. I even tried, I ordered one from Amazon, I can return it easily. Nope, it won't work. I decided to eliminate the outlet entirely. I am not sure why Oliver did not hard wire this in the first place...... I found this plastic junction box at Home Depot: Here is what comes in that kit: This is a true approved 100% waterproof cover; Dimensions. It is plenty thin to fit in that area. More to follow. John Davies Spokane WA