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We were in Hohenwald this week and saw some new products made by SEA BISCUIT METAL DESIGNS on display in the Oliver showroom. One product caught our attention, so we decide to visit Johnson City. The rear basket carrier and storage boxes are very well crafted. We already have the OEM rear bumper receiver option so installation was simplified. Since we weren't using the bumper receiver on this trip, we replaced one for the other. We're very pleased with the quality and the design. The lockable boxes increase the secure outside storage, and they're easily removed from the basket in case we want to use it to carry odd shaped/sized cargo. We went with two separate storage boxes, but they also have a larger single "coffin" box that spans the width of the basket. The low profile doesn't cover the original license plate location, so no need to move the plate and rewire its light. The CNC cut "Oliver" name on the carrier is also a nice touch.

Trying to decide which to get... I like the idea of more storage with the locked box, but having to remove the generator for every road trip is probably a pain too. What do you prefer?

Hi, I have a question if I can hook up a 2000 watt inverter to my battery bank.I don't know much about these batterys.Is there a way to get the outlets to work on a inverter,or will I have to have the inverter inside the camper.I have no solor or inverter on my 2022 le 2. We just got back from a state park with no hookups and it is very hard to make coffee at 6:00 am and not be able to fire up the generator.We would like to hit more parks but generator hours are limited.

I'm thinking yours is more than a coffee issue. We have always used an inverter. We stream TV shows or YouTube, play a Blu-ray at night, turn on Newsmax in the morning, can't do that on LP. We have two tea kettles for drip coffee. If it's going to be a sunny day (80/20 rule in Arizona) we use our 1100W electric and if SOC is low and the forecast is mostly cloudy we use LP instead. Forgot about your generator. We haven't needed one in a while, so I did not consider it in my earlier comment. We had a Class-C with a small inverter and at first no solar but a capable built-in 4KW Onan generator. We would watch TV, run any electric appliances including the microwave. During afternoons we would run the generator, run the A/C then too and meanwhile recharge the batteries. How OTT wired the 2KW Xantrex (pictured above) was as follows. 4/0 battery cables (2/0 is actually enough) go to the inverter first and then they used 6 AWG cables to power secondary 12VDC needs. The automatic transfer switch (ATS), is shown center of picture. Notice the label "connect to AC load only" which was wired to the one 120VAC breaker that handles the microwave and 110V outlets (make coffee, watch TV, etc.). The ATS allows this circuit(s) to be run on shore power OR inverter. The wiring is relatively simple. Besides an inverter with ATS, perhaps longer/heavier cables, I would suggest getting a shunt-battery monitor, so you would know when the inverter had used enough power to require recharging (50% SOC for lead acid). We have the tank level monitor too, but I never use it. I added one of these for reading amps and AH used, besides SOC. The VictronConnect app makes it so you can read this data via Bluetooth. It's good to know when parking/leaving your Oliver whether you forgot/left something on that would drain SOC, check the -Amps reading which should be very low. Hope this helps! Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt IP65 Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) - Victron Smart Shunt - 6.5V-70V, 500 amp : Automotive

I've searched through the forums here and have seen this topic come up and either fizzle out with no answer/resolution posted or a resolution that I've tried and it has not fixed my problem. I'll start with some background on my situation. I purchased a 2008 Elite back in 2021 and had it for almost 2 years and loved it and never had a problem with it but just wanted more room so I purchased a 2016 Elite II in March of 2023. Ever since I got it I never felt the water pressure in the bathroom (whether on city water or using the fresh water tank with the pump) was that great for the sink and the toilet. It seemed to get worse as time went on and maybe it was my imagination but I felt the kitchen sink and outside faucet didn't have the same amount of pressure anyone. I did find a leak in the back of the outside faucet and just replaced the entire box and that fixed that issue but not the issue in the bathroom. In the basement storage area I found the water pressure regulator and back flow valves and took them out and soaked them in white vinegar for a few hours. This seemed to help the kitchen and outside faucet but not the bathroom. I would recommend everyone do this every couple of years because there was a fair amount of build up on these and they really weren't that hard to get to. So next I took the sprayer off the faucet and soaked the entire handle in white vinegar for a few hours and put it back on and there wasn't any improvement. With the sprayer disconnected from the hose water flowed from the hose ok but not great, but never having seen it flowing from there before under perfect conditions I don't know for sure. I double checked the toilet again and it was still slow to fill. I checked to make sure the valve was fully opened and there were no kinks in water line to it. I did finally notice there is water pressure regulator on the back of the toilet, I don't remember having one on my previous Oliver but I also never had a water problem with it so that night be why I don't remember it. Is/was this standard equipment on a 2016 or is it an addon by one of the previous owners? I have not tried to adjust it yet, not even sure it is adjustable hoping someone here can tell me. (excuse the mess, I didn't realize until just now how dirty the floor behind the toilet is) Next I tried filling the fresh water tank and using the water pump to be sure it wasn't just an issue with city water. Below is a video of the kitchen sink running and you can hear the pump running smoothly and then cut off when I turn the water off then it switches to the bathroom sink and you can see the water pulsing and hear the water pump surging, That pulsing/surging doesn't seem normal to me but I have no frame of reference, I'm hoping someone can tell if that's normal or not. OCVideo.732576672.863039.mp4 The next things I am planning to try are pulling the cartridge from the faucet and soaking it in white vinegar or just replacing it, and putting on a new faucet head just incase the original one was just too clogged for soaking it to help. Have I missed anything? Any suggestions on what I might try next.

This spring as we were prepping for a new road trip, I noticed the battery box door seemed to be sticking out further than normal. I thought I would adjust the latch to pull the door in a bit tighter. What I found was that the battery box had started to tip forward away from the main hull as shown the pix below. All the rivets up both sides and all across the top of the box had sheared and the box was tipped out about 1/2". I contacted Oliver Support to understand how the box was designed, mounted etc. They cleared me for travel after having me check the support strut inside the trailer (under the pantry area) . After some further consultation I was able to perform a repair. Here's a sketch of how the battery box is installed in our Hull 505 (2019 Elite II) trailer. The repair steps I took following Oliver instructions were: 1) Remove the batteries from the slide tray to get weight off the box. 2) Drill out all sheared rivets. (3/16" bit) 3) Release the 2 support bracket bolts inside the trailer under the pantry (one of which is adjustable). (This step is a pain and requires some long extensions for the ratchet wrench to make reaching nuts possible.) 4) Tip box back into position. (Check that the box base still has a slight outward tip for water drainage.) 5) Re-tighten support bolts. 6) Re-rivet all around the perimeter. 7) Clean seams and add a bead of boat life white sealant around the battery box seam. (See pix below). Repaired Box Above: Door closes with a good seal all around and the box sealed to the body. We are going to keep an eye on this as we travel this next year, and make a trip to the Oliver factory for them to inspect and repair if necessary. I'm not sure of the root cause or mechanism by which the box tipped out in the first place. One concern would be that the box is putting too much pressure on the outer hull while bouncing down the highway. I don't see any indications of cracking in the glass hull or box at this point. Hope this helps if anyone else see's an issue. Craig Hull 505

We just just spent a week at Bear Den CG just North of Spruce Pine, NC. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ with Hull# 634 which performed flawlessly. It was a well needed vacation post our blueberry harvest. We took time and spent a lot of time learning our Ollies systems- Love Love the Truma, long instant hot showers a win.I think it took like 6-8 seconds for us to have constant hot water at the kitchen sink and sink/shower. Microwave convection oven a must have for us. We were easily able to quickly cook/heat meals during a heavy storm one evening. Full hook ups allowed us to use our black and gray tanks seamlessly. The generator tray was extremely useful for a number of tasks. (We did not take our Honda generator this trip). Our AC kept us cool and cycled as it should. We did run the Dometic furnace on a cool 60 degree morning and it performed great. All in all a great safe week! A few photos....of our great State of North Carolina! 😊🇺🇸 Our Tundra CrewMax and it’s reliability delivered and performed outstanding. Check out Bear Den if your ever traveling the gorgeous elevations of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Happy Camping! Patriot

Yes have looked at these also from previous owners installs. The 460AH Epoch also seems to be a good deal, although would only have the one battery vs 2. We will be camping in TN next month for about a week without hookups. They do allow generator use during day. Hopefully this trip will give me better idea of our power needs. All our camping to date how been with full power hookup’s to run the AC 24/7 during these hot months.

Rearview Camera is on our pre-trip checklist: RV Quick Checklist: 66 items shared Monitors □ 1 Change GPS to Movement/Daily □ 2 Rearview camera on □ 3 Install repeater Bathroom □ 4 Bathroom drain closed (in) & flagged □ 5 Shower curtain secured □ 6 Bathroom cabinet shut □ 7 Bathroom window closed □ 8 Bathroom vent closed □ 9 bathroom items secured □ 10 bathroom door closed Interior □ 11 Check ladder secure points □ 12 Awning switches off □ 13 Awning remote stored □ 14 Microwave tray secure □ 15 fan in fridge □ 16 fridge doors locked □ 18 Sink cover stored □ 19 Stove off □ 20 cooktop cover closed □ 21 pots/pans/dishes □ 22 furnace/AC off □ 23 Marine fan stowed □ 24 roof vent closed/fan off □ 25 Remotes stored □ 26 antenna booster off □ 27 AC alarm off □ 28 TVs secured □ Solar on/off □ 29 Gas water heater off □ 30 water pump off □ 31 weather radio off □ 32 Xantrex setting #28 to 5 (storage) or 25 (camping) or 15 (generator) □ 34 tires checked □ 35 doors/drawers/windows closed □ 36 blinds closed □ 37 Cabin lights off Exterior □ 38 LP gas off □ 33 thermometer stored □ 39 Electric water heater off/on □ 40 sewer hose secured □ 41 tire covers off □ 42 leveling jacks up □ 43 water/elec./TV/sewer d/c Truck □ 44 Close tailgate □ 45 bikes secured □ 46 Wheel step removed □ 47 Ball hitch pinned and locked □ 48 parking brake set □ 49 Chains on □ 50 breakaway cable □ 51 Coupler pinned □ 52 Tongue jack up Hitched □ 53 vehicle lights checked □ 54 wheel chocks out □ 55 Linx levelers stored □ 17 fridge on 12v □ 56 door mat stored □ 57 doors/compartments locked □ 58 steps retracted □ 60 trailer transponder in Mechanical □ 59 trailer brakes checked □ 61 radiator clear □ 62 washer fluid checked □ 63 ATF checked □ 64 brake fluid checked □ 65 coolant checked

Just a couple options for you to consider... 1. Install a 12v - 12v DC charger. This device will connect between your TV alternator and your Oliver batteries ensuring they are topped off after towing after a few hours (depending upon its output, 30amp and 50amp output units are available). 2. Modify your SL kit to run directly off DC power. Inverters are inherently inefficient as they "invert" DC power from your battery bank into AC electrical power - maybe 70 - 80% efficient, if you're lucky. Your OEM SL system will operate from an AC power outlet right out of the box from Star Link - then it converts that AC power to approx 40vDC in the dishy. So, essentially, using a 400W inverter from your Oliver battery box to your SL router, then the SL converts the AC power back to DC power, thus, you're increasing the inefficiency "twice". By converting the SL to 12vDC you can avoid these inefficiencies when boondocking and conserving your Oliver battery DC power storage at the same time. There are multiple threads on making this SL modification in these forums, FYI.... Cheers!

In another thread, the topic of a winter trip to Quartzsite came up. Since it was a thread hijack there, I've started this one here. Sometime in January next, we'll leave for Q. As usual, we'll be camped out at Dome Rock about 4 miles west of town. This is BLM and is free. There are zero facilities except what you bring with you so you will be totally boondocking. Solar is obviously necessary, without it you will have to have a generator. There is water and dumping available in town. There will be a fiberglass rally (of such) that usually occurs the first week or so of February. Calling this a rally is quite a stretch as there are no organizers or agenda. There will be a mix of all different brands of FG trailers. We've made many friends through the years while attending. January 18th-26th will feature the Quartzsite Sports, Vacation & RV Show. Death Valley NP is an easy drive and that time of the year is the PERFECT time to go. Joshua Tree NP is also close enough to drop in there. Both NP's have free camping and there is never a crowd that time of year. If this type of atmosphere floats your boat, Vegas is north of there as is Hoover dam. Lake Havasu City sports the London Bridge having been disassembled in London, shipped across the pond and reassembled there. Since there was no river for it to cross, they diverted the Colorado River to restore it as a functioning bridge across water. This will be a lazy time with plenty of opportunities to do nothing, sitting around talking to old friends and making new ones. I've started a list of folks who said they would be there. Join us, won't you? Quartzsite 2025 roster: 1 - Steve and Tali Landrum Hull #050 Tupelo, MS (scubarx) 2 - Art and Diane FLYNN Hull #226 Placitas, NM (maxburner) 3 - Lance Smeltekop Hull #898 Nederland,CO and Traverse City, MI (mountainman198) 4 - Richard De Villiers Hull #1368 Guelph, Ontario (rich.dev) 5 - John and Wendy Register - Hull #996 Full Timers (johnwen) 6 - John and Chris Dokos - Hull #113 Prescott, AZ (jd1923)

ADB is the "air distribution box" on the inside side of the roof. My install dealer and I are still working out the ramifications of they having installed a 15K BTU FreshJet3 instead of my requested 13.5K BTU version. There is now some question as to my Honda 2200 being able to run the 13.5 version. I can attest to the fact that it is NOT able to run the 15K version. 😒 Measured data 15K Dometic FreshJet 3 (with the Dometic Easy Start) and a Honda 2200 gen: Sea level, 73F. Low setting on the A/C - 13 amps. Generator runs fine Medium setting on the A/C - 15 to 16 amps, gen running hard, evidently right at it's max wattage output. High or Turbo setting on the A/C - 18 to 19 amps - Gen shuts down immediately due to overload. I am having difficulty getting my mind around the fact that Dometic claims that the amperage draw of the 13.5K unit and the 15K unit are the same. If they are the same, then why is one de-rated to 13.5K? in my mind, BTU = energy = watts = amps.... 🤯

Yeah, definitely not considering one behind the rear axle, though I think I could get away with one in front of the front axle where it would be close to the same level as the bottom of the axle itself. It's pretty obvious this LE was raised a little higher than factory and probably doesn't have the same clearance issues a rear mounted box could have on ours. .

Reports that Dometic claims that the FreshJet 3, 15K and 13.5K units draw the same number of Watts/Amps has lighted my BS warning lamp. I respectfully request that someone with a FreshJet3, 13.5 K unit actually measure the running amps of their A/C on low, medium and Turbo, and publish same on this forum. An easy way to do that is to use the handy dandy monitor located in the rear cubby of the Legacy Elite II. Please pick a time when your batteries are fully charged, and just before testing that the monitor shows 1 amp or less of current draw. It does not matter if you are on shore power or on generator power. Please mention ambient temperature during the test. With the 15K version of subject A/C, I measured 13 amps on low, 15 to 16 amps on medium and 18+ amps on high (Turbo). Many thanks to all who can respond. Signed, The puzzled Orca!

Some of you might have seen my recent post on another thread, Shake Rattle and Roll, regarding items including screws etc coming loose while towing. My situation had become considerably worse as previously stated in regards to the entire set of drawers and associated hardware with the kitchen cabinet drawers. Cutting to the chase I had to replace all of the soft close glides for a litany of reasons which I will detail below then rebuild and redesign the entire drawer setup and arrangement. Some of the glides had corroded severely preventing their ease of use, and in other cases the boxes themselves were made in what can only be described as sloppy construction, inconsistent sizes, and most of them considerably too small for their respective cabinet openings allowing for the glides to come completely out of, or off their rails. If this isn't enough the cabinets themselves were built out of square, out of plumb, and not parallel from front to back or side to side. Hopefully this will provide help to those who might be having some of the same issues. Let me know if you have any questions be glad to help if I can. For starters attached are some photos of the errant issues we were having. Image below illustrates how poorly this set of drawer glides were installed which of course imposed a closed drawer that pointed downward, top portion closed while the bottom tilted outward. The red arrow on this drawer points to the corroded glide rail. This is the worst example in all fairness. closer detail that illustrates the above perhaps better. In the photo below you can see where these drawers were only stapled together and with no glue anywhere. To make matters worse the cheap plywood used for the plastic face frame inserts was never treated for moisture and thus over a period of time would expand contract then warp and pull away from the drawer box itself. The only method for installing these drawer faces was nothing more than caulk, no screws nothing to hold them in place over a period of time in different weather or humidity patterns. Effectively each of the faces had warped convexly as seen in this photo. This is an example of the old drawer boxes once the plastic fronts were removed with scrapers, pry bars and chisels. Note how the 4 inch drawer is 1 inch longer than the 6 inch drawer, and this was consistent throughout for no discernible reason that I could determine. All of my new drawers are a full 20 inches long with the exception of the 12 inch drawer that mounts under the kitchen sink otherwise it would collide with the sink drain, probably not a good idea. Most but not all of these plastic face mounts to the drawers are cracked severely or in some cases mild cracks as illustrated below. Eventually I will replace all of the drawer faces with something else in the future and just be done with the cheap 1/2 inch plywood glued/caulked into these plastic cavities. Now for the rebuild. Below you can see where the drawer positioning is much different. Rather than the 4 inch depth drawer to 6 inch depth drawer, then back to the 4 inch on the bottom row it seemed to make much more sense to do two rows of 4 inch drawers (with 6 inch face fronts) then install the 6 inch drawer with 8 inch front on the bottom row. In addition the upper right drawer as originally installed was only 12 inches deep much like the drawer that mounts underneath the sink. This made no sense to me because there was plenty of room for a full 20 inch drawer to easily slide beneath the cooktop stove. In order to make sure there would not be an overheating issue I ran the both burners for a period of time with my hand touching the bottom of the stove. Never even got warm. It is important to note this stove is built with a second dead air space layer. This allows for much better usage of kitchen tools and storage. Details from the rebuild. Basically I used Kreg Pocket Hole jigs and screws to build the boxes but also used reinforcements below with right angle corner hardware and ran a bead of hot wax glue across all of the underside of the boxes/drawers. Materials were half inch baltic birch plywood, with 1/4 inch birch plywood bottoms dado'ed into the sides and fronts. Closeup detail of hardware and messy hot wax glue. I also used a small painters palette knife to spatula the glue while still hot and pliable further into each joint. It was fairly easy to run the heat gun for 6-8 inches of glue line then press the glue further into position, then start on the next 6-8 inches. Pocket holes can be seen in the photo below. To mount the face fronts back onto each drawer I used 3/4 inch Big Timber screws that are self tapping, however in order make sure they were solid each drawer front was clamped to its respective drawer during installation of screws. As you can see each screw is counter sunk as well allowing for a deeper bite. Note didn't want to glue them on in addition to screws knowing I would eventually replace the fronts with completely new materials. The photo below shows two sets of new drawer glides installed properly that being with front of the glide recessed approximately 1/16th of an inch as illustrated by the red circles, not the full 1 inch as originally installed by Oliver. By installing the glides so far back into the cavity of the cabinet boxes the glides would never fully come to their closed positions. Not sure why the water hoses to the kitchen faucet were installed to the front of the rear cabinet brace at the back as seen in this photo. There was plenty of room to route those blue and red lines between the hull and cabinet which I just might do the future. It is also worth pointing out the opening space on the plastic trim for the cabinets is about 1/4 to 3/8 th's different from right to left side which translates into building each side with different width drawers. The space allowed for this type of drawer glide accommodates 1/2 inch on either side for a total of 1 full inch smaller width drawer compared to the cabinet opening. This is and always has been a tight specification. The original drawers were off by at least 1/4 inch or more. View from the basement. Honestly I have no idea how the entire assembly of the kitchen cabinet drawers even stay in place going down the road. Boxes are screwed together with 3 drywall screws and sort of situated into these pockets made of 2-3 inch depth plywood. I have no idea how those pockets are held in place and it doesn't appear there is any support at the back of the cabinets as they set hovering over the wheel wells by perhaps half an inch. Would love to hear a more informed opinion about this. A few finished results installed. Some of you might see that instead of implementing 4 drawers at 4 inches I ended up building 4 inch on top, 5 inch in the middle, then the standard 6 inch for the bottom drawer. Increasing the middle 4 inch to 5 inch depth provides a bit better depth of space while still allowing plenty of adequate space between each drawer.

That's why (IMHO) it's best to install the EPO/EMS right before your breaker box. If not, you can have a wiring issue between the pedestal and the breakers causing a voltage drop that won't be seen by the EPO if installed at the pedestal.

I got a lot done this week! 🤣 In introduction, our 2016 Hull #113 has roof-mounted 340W Zamp solar, and had a 2KW Xantrex inverter (only with separate PD4000 converter) and 450AH 6V lead-acid batteries renewed in 2021. Given a recent price reduction and a 10% off sale with free shipping, we were motivated to purchase two Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries for a total of 600AH and it made sense to upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger at the same time. Everything described to follow came to $3200 total investment including all small parts and the costs of many on-hand shop materials. Just two years ago, the cost of the LiFePO4 batteries alone would be nearly double! First, all the old had to be removed. Demolition is always fun first step in a project! I removed the lead-acid batteries (sold them on Craigs in just a few days) and all the cables, the Inverter, the ATS and junction box. It’s crazy how OTT wired shore power to inverter power, using wire nuts in this junction box, real backyard mechanic stuff (correct design would be to use a dual-bus power panel). Everything in these pics has been removed (anybody need a 2kW Xantrex system or spare parts)? The second crazy thing is where they installed the main DC fuse (see pic). No way would I have known it's up there until I removed the cables! To access this fuse, you have to sit low reaching through the rear dinette seat.

I can only state ‘what I did’! Started off with a Renogy 20A DC-DC charger and the 50’ WndyNation 4 AWG wire set @rideadeuce mentions. The larger than necessary gauge wire was installed to accommodate any future upgrade in charger size, which eventually came into play. The charger was installed in the rear dinette seat hatch, mounted vertically on the interior wall, in like manner as the Xantrex, but on the opposite side just forward of the above battery box/pantry. This position allowed for the shortest cable run to the battery bank, being four 6V Trojan T-105s at the time, and this charger was the alternative of choice since my OTT did not have solar. However in short order, I ungraded to LFPs to be able to run the a/c via the inverter, and subsequently upgraded to a Renogy 40A DC-DC to further offset draw on the battery bank when running the a/c while underway or during brief stops with the TV at idle. This practice proved to be too stressful on the aging stock alternator and thus a high output alternator was installed. I convey all of this knowing that you are fully aware, but there may be some that read this and find it helpful information. I simply choose Renogy as a cost saving measure, half that of a Victron, and have been very pleased. A Victron SmartShunt was also installed at time of the lithium upgrade and the Renogy’s output can be monitored via the VictronConnect app.

I am not an electrician or an engineer, so I sometimes struggle with all this electrical talk. But that does not stop me from trying to understand all that I read... If I understand this thread, we are discussing two different scenarios; #1) CLEAN POWER at the POST, vs. #2) Handling power significant spikes/drops or power cycles (brown-outs?) enough to do damage to our trailers. Both can occur after the initial 'CLEAN POWER' test. For #1, I too have a 30a to 15a adapter, with a W.A. Sperry tester (like @mountainoliver) plugged into the 15a side. I always plug that into the post before connecting my OTT shore line. Most of the time I get the 'circuit OK' and I continue. If not OK, I try to resolve with the CG staff. Like @Mike and Carol I also have a 4-prong 50A to 3-prong 30A adapter, and have used it when 30a was dirty & 50a was clean. For #2, I do not have anything as of yet... But have been giving it more & more thought. This is why; During our last camping season, we were at a CG that had a fueled 'CG' wide large generator that was, to put it in crude but understandable terms... undulating. Maggie & I were walking around and when I heard that, I hurried to our trailer heard clicks in the walls and saw lights on/off on Xantrex, I then disconnected our shore power. Later when I talked to the CG staff, they said the generator had governor (i.e. undulating) issues, another said the demand exceeded the output, so it would idle down for a moment. IDK enough to know what it was, however I do know enough that I did not like the clicking & lights show in or trailer.. So I am wondering if I need to look at getting something that handles #2 OR if #2 can be further split between (2a) power spikes/drops and (2b) power cycles (brown-out?). Still trying to understand all that I have read above... So keep the dialog coming, and I will re-read & watch video's. B~Out

Absolutely! We got by the first 36 hours on just the trailer's batteries alone. We'd also used the AC a couple of times, just to cool off and dry out. Not particularly hot at 80°, but 90% humidity was killer! The first night, I ordered a generator grounding plug and generator to RV 30A adaptor so that I could use the Honda generator. I'd never considered connecting it to the trailer before, so had no need for these. I'm glad I knew from prior posts on this forum that I needed a grounding plug, else I'd have been frustrated as to why it wouldn't charge. Amazon overnight shipping had them here at 7AM. Of course I only had the propane that was in the trailer (with one tank at 15%), and a little bit in a third tank that I've used all spring and summer for my fire pit. So after using up the latter, I swapped to the full Oliver tank, while I went to fill four more. (We had an empty from our son-in-law, who switched his grill to natural gas, and Deb had picked up two new ones at Costco earlier this summer to replace the out of date and nearly out of date tanks I already had.) About two hours after I returned from filling the tanks, the power came back on. At the height of the outage from four confirmed tornados, 627,000 Ohio customers were without power, with hundreds of poles needing replaced. First Energy was working double shifts with outside help from surrounding areas. But the estimate for complete restoration of power was August 14, so I wanted to make sure I was prepared. I just looked at their web site, and there are still 192,000 customers with no power 70 hours after the storm. If this had been January, we'd be in Florida, and our house would have broken pipes. While there is a lot of damage in the area, it could have been much, much worse!

One issue with installing an EMS/EPO at the pedestal is that you're not picking up the voltage drop between the pedestal and the equipment/appliances in your TT. Might not be an issue, but also might be... I like a sacrificial surge protector at the pedestal and then an autoformer, and then an EMS/EPO unit before the breaker box. Maybe overkill, but I like overkill when it comes to electricity.

@mossemi I just registered this suggestion in my brain. Might be a very good addition for my tool box. Will look at these.

There I go again, quoting myself! 🤣 By chance I found the individual electrical runs for the 110v outlets and microwave. This may not be true in newer hulls, but on ours there is one breaker for both. Good news is the run to the microwave is separate and can be wired to a separate breaker, given one available in the panel. Since I will soon eliminate the PD converter/charger I could use its breaker or install a thin double in its place. I already wired the panel in this way but need the PD converter while I have no batteries in ours, working on the new inverter/charger installation. I removed the Xantrex 2KW inverter yesterday. Ours is inverter only, no charger and it also has the Xantrex PROwatt SW external ATS. The freed-up space is perfect to add a DC-to-DC charger or other needs. I also plan to move the solar ON/OFF switch from under the streetside bed to rear dinette. I already upgraded to motorized ball valves so no pulling of the curbside bed, and I want absolutely no reason to move either bed when camping. OTT really needs this as a future design goal! I sure hope the MP2 does not have some kind of manual reset button! What hokey wiring OTT did. Though I'm thinking back in 2016 the solar inverter option was a rare add-on. When I built an inverter system in our past Class-C, I created a split bus in the panel, one side served by the inverter and the other side having A/C and converter/charger breakers only to be powered by shore power. PD actually makes panels with a split bus for this reason, but mine was hand-cut! OTT wired the microwave and 110v outlets into a standard electrical junction box using only wire-nuts to connect these runs to both shore and inverter. These only went through the breaker on the panel when on shore power, otherwise are protected by the GFCI outlet on the inverter. I removed everything you see in this picture, and you can see the junction box at the top of the picture. The second picture shows the two cables that were wired into the box. They are the two white cables you see lose above the panel which I wired into the panel afterwards. Also yesterday, I purchased my Victron MP2 and VE.bus for programming and Bluetooth connection from Inverter Supply, at a good OTD price, no additional costs: Victron Energy PMP122305120 - Inverter Supply The second picture also shows the main shore power cable (heavy black 600V 10-3 cable on LHS). This will be removed. A new 10-3 cable will be wired from the EMS as input to the MP2 and another from MP2 output to the panel so that the inverter handles all loads including air conditioning. When on shore power from either input (grid or generator) it will allow pass-through 120VAC and/or Power Assist when needed. No generator on our rig, just 600AH Epoch and 3KVA MP2. If this doesn't do it, though it should, I can always add more batteries in the basement!

Hello, I am a new Ollie owner, Hull number 530, and I’m a low tech user who needs help! Where can I get information on purchasing the factory front mounted storage box I’ve seen and heard about? Secondly, what is my first step in troubleshooting low water pressure coming from my pump? Thank you. Pete

Ours looks like this - Keyway is blurred because with AI these days you never know. It is a two-sided keyway - notches on the top and bottom of the key. If you did not get one with your lock contact service and there should be a serial number on the lock that would allow you to order a backup. Note that the key number is the blur where the grey box is.