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We keep our Victron Multiplus II on ALWAYS because we use AC appliances all the time! Also, with the MP2 full OFF does not allow for shore-power pass-through. There are 4 states as seen in the menu which can be changed via the VictronConnect Bluetooth App (see picture). The MP2 is more efficient than the original Multiplus as follows with power saving modes: - Zero load power 13W - In AES mode 9W - In Search mode 3W 13W is about 1A or 24Ah used per day (I don't bother with the power savings Modes). Since our Oliver is always outdoors, it takes about 3 hours of sun or 6 hours of clouds to replenish the 36Ah in 24 hours, the 24Ah for the inverter and another 0.5Ah x 24 for DC usage, Exterior Courtesy Lights ON and DC parasitic draw. I will on occasion turn the inverter off overnight, for example when charging is creating noise under my bed or when boondocking and SOC is low from use (<50%) and we need to be off-grid more overnights. On the rare occasion when the inverter is turned OFF overnight, Chris will try to start the electric kettle for coffee in the morning and when she gets no power she knows. So, I turn it back on using the app while still in bed! Our batteries have to be really low to use LP. The 1100W electric kettle (usually draws 900W) boils water in half the time. When SOC% gets low we have DC-2-DC charging and an extra 400W in suitcase solar. Our Epoch and Victron upgrades are GREAT and we use them to the fullest!

Replacing xantrax on my Oliver Elite II 2021. Can't beat power assist on Victron components (Uses battery to meet power requirements when specificed amount of current is set) I have had Victron Multiplus in my old camper and I am crying for the first time , I hate drilling into this beautiful Elite but can't get wires from upper cabinet to lower components without drilling. Going to install Victron MPPT - 100 /30 for outside solar panels 400 watts of ground deployed solar panels Victron Orion 12 volt to 12 Volt charger for vehicle charging and for a Pecron 500 amp hour battery I have under the bed. Victron Smartshunt for monitoring batteries Victron Cerbo GX for the brains of the operation all components plug into and are monitored by this device. Victron small touch screen Built wood support for Multiplus much heavier than xantrax probably double. (I did not lift or look at weights but had a friend put in place) (6 back surgeries lifting days are over) Here are some pictures Had one heck of time getting hole centered perfect to drill. Went as far as I could in corner of cabinet . . . . . .Little scary but turned out ok. Going to work on Battery box holes at same time and maybe add ventilation for batteries at same time. Thanks to everyone for posting information on ventilation Take care Montana Oliver

In what I've read so far, at least @Overland and @Ty J, and more recently @rideadeuce have upgraded to the Victron 3KVA Multiplus or MPII. Maybe others? If I remember correctly, Overland installed the original Multiplus and others went with MPII. Does the Multiplus II truly have necessary features. I read 1 amp less draw on stand-by, thinner (but not actually smaller), anything else? I see just fitting the Multiplus in my current Xantrex location (rear dinette seat), where the MPII would certainly be too long. I'd like to avoid adding extra 12V cable length installing it under the bed area or front dinette seat, though there is nothing but room up front and I haven't yet moved that bed since I've been working on the other side. Overland worked a novel installation! He also stated (cannot find the quote today), something like you could keep the batteries in the battery bay or install the inverter there (he wrote it better). Wow, thank you, that got me thinking! Overland also commented the Multiplus was not noisy except when supplying a large AC load or upon shore power connection/bulk charging. It is quiet enough under the dinette seat when just using small AC appliances like when watching TV? Is the MPII truly more efficient? Could it be quieter? I just purchased two 300AH Epoch batteries and I cannot believe FedEx tracking says they will be here on Tuesday. It only makes sense to work these installs together.

After replacing the Xantrex ProWatt SW 2000 with the Victron Multiplus, what are the Xantrex and AGMs worth? Thinking of posting the Xantrex and 4 AGMs on Craigs List and FB Marketplace. Also have the old Progressive Dynamics original power board I replaced before I decided to get the MultiPlus. Any suggestions on what I should price it at? Oh, and I have the battery tray I took out to get the 3 Lithiums in the battery box. Also would be Happy to haul them to the Rally if anyone would like to buy them. I’ll be at site F27 and like it for someone who has been there and done it to take a look at my set up and give me suggestions. Thanks. Gary Gary.Teaney@ConsultantsTCB.com 727-224-2754

I pulled the plug and got 3 Watt Cycle 280 Ah Lithium Batteries for a total of 840 Ahs. Yes, based on Will Prowse’s review, got the Blue Sea 400 amp fuse. I also bought the Victron Multiplus, yes, not the II, the Cerbo GX, and the Victron 50 Touchscreen. Good news is that Beast fits where the old Xantrex ProWatt SW was. I’ve read, and reread, and reread the great posts other owners have posted on their MultiPlus upgrades. Sad to say, it’s way over my pay grade. Have a mobile RV guy coming out to install. He is saying 3 to 5 hours for install. Seems fair to me, since I don’t have a clue. He says it might also take an hour to configure the Multiplus. I am hoping someone can give me their configuration or tell me who might get me that info to save me that $150 an hour of button pushing. I’ll have him install the Cerbo GX. I may install the Victron 50 Touchscreen later. Would like some advice on best place to run the wire and mount for that. I do NOT have the Zamp Controller panel installed so that hole does not exist in my trailer. My goal is to have all this work done before I’m on the road to the April Ollie Rally at Lake Guntersville. Any comments, suggestions, questions will be much appreciated. Thanks Gary Hull 292 The Range Rover

We have 600 Ah Epoch LiFePO4 and the 3KVA Victron Multiplus II inverter which can run the A/C for a few hours. When we replace the awful 13.5 Dometic Penguin 2 with an inverter A/C we should be near double runtime on the A/C. If you have the Truma, it is a bit more efficient than the Dometic. When we truly need A/C, like we did almost 10 overnights on our last 36-day trip we booked sites with electrical hookup. Was not expecting so much hot weather up north but we certainly had a heat wave in most parts of the country this June. I won't carry a generator and extra fuel. Soon with an A/C upgrade we can run it longer. I would add another 300 Ah Epoch battery before adding a generator. But that's just me. Best wishes to you and your new DC-to-DC installation!

7 hours later, the Goldstar RV Owner, Matt, took out the Xantrex Inverter, wired in the Victron Multiplus, programmed with the Victron MK3, wired up the Cerbo GX, and 50 Touchscreen, and we turned on the AC with the 840 amps of 3 280Ah Watt Cycle Lithiums. Oh Happy Days. Have gotten some good advice on where to mount the touch screen. May wait to do that at the rally, or when we get to the Mothership on May 5th. Would never have had this happen without a LOT of support from fellow Ollie Owners. Thanks so much. Hope to see you at the Rally. We are Site F27 in the Range Rover, Hull 292 Gary, Anita, and Ranger

All the comments are right on the money. But for a little more perspective of why you fell short of power, consider this: My guess is that you have about 400 Amp Hours with your 4 AGM batteries, which gives you about 200 AH usable power without going below 50%. You stated that your inverter stays on. A Xantrex Freedom inverter uses 72 AH per 24 hours of standby power (turned on without a load.) The Victron Multiplus is better at 40 AH a day with standard factory settings, and as low as 16 amp hours a day with power saving settings. These are both zero AH when turned off. The batteries are being supplemented with an assumed 320 watt solar system, which is under 30 AH a day in sunny conditions. You mentioned a coffee maker which burns a lot of power, typically about 20 AH to brew coffee, and more if your keeping it warm. That could cancel out the solar contribution. Now add in the AH values for whatever else you're using, and you can figure out how long you can last when boondocking. Hope that helps! Cheers, Geoff

I got a lot done this week! 🤣 In introduction, our 2016 Hull #113 has roof-mounted 340W Zamp solar, and had a 2KW Xantrex inverter (only with separate PD4000 converter) and 450AH 6V lead-acid batteries renewed in 2021. Given a recent price reduction and a 10% off sale with free shipping, we were motivated to purchase two Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries for a total of 600AH and it made sense to upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger at the same time. Everything described to follow came to $3200 total investment including all small parts and the costs of many on-hand shop materials. Just two years ago, the cost of the LiFePO4 batteries alone would be nearly double! First, all the old had to be removed. Demolition is always fun first step in a project! I removed the lead-acid batteries (sold them on Craigs in just a few days) and all the cables, the Inverter, the ATS and junction box. It’s crazy how OTT wired shore power to inverter power, using wire nuts in this junction box, real backyard mechanic stuff (correct design would be to use a dual-bus power panel). Everything in these pics has been removed (anybody need a 2kW Xantrex system or spare parts)? The second crazy thing is where they installed the main DC fuse (see pic). No way would I have known it's up there until I removed the cables! To access this fuse, you have to sit low reaching through the rear dinette seat.

Our Honda eu2200 will not run our Truma air at sea level. The overload on the generator trips when the compressor kicks on. As I understand the xantrex 3000 freedom pro, it will prioritize sending ac power to the ac and send less to the charger for instance if the ac input is not great enough to support both (load share). But the Xantrex will not supplement ac loads with battery power as a Victron Multiplus will. I would love to be wrong about this but I think the only way my generator will run our ac is if a soft start is installed.

Ha! I've got a Victron Multiplus II in a DIY "Electric Solar Generator" or whatever you call those portable Bluetti, Jakery, Goal Zero boxes. Thanks for the reply. I would definitely reach out here for a head check, but I'm really curious about the "emergency" option of being able to talk to Oliver support and possibly order parts from them if needed. If I remember correctly, I've seen a few threads where folks mentioned running plans past the support team, I'd feel more comfortable if I had that in my back pocket as an option. Is that a thing they do?

I installed the VE.bus (required addition to the Victron Multiplus providing Bluetooth when going without screen displays), connected by Ethernet cable, in the same basement area on top of the wheel well. I put it there since it measures temp and I wanted it near the top of the same area where our inverter/charger is installed. The picture shows the "Detailed" tab of the app. You can see that today mine reads 69F and my Ruuvi sensor in the back trunk area shows 60F, which is about our outside temp today. The screen states Battery Temp because they assume you install it in the battery bay. So, the Victron is adding up to +9F on a cool day (hardly inverting and not charging at all since shore power is disconnected). Also, the cooling fan is off. BTW, these Beech Lane fans need resetting whenever power is disconnected. Above I mentioned the VE.bus is required. This is only true if you are like me and do not want the other Victron toys and displays, just app connection. I also mentioned USB or USB-C which is wrong for this device. The VE.bus is connected by Ethernet only to provide Bluetooth access to the Multiplus. This VE.bus also allows you to turn the Multiplus ON/OFF, charger ON only, or inverter ON only. There is an accessory you truly need for configuring the Multiplus. It's connected to the Mulitplus also by Ethernet port and at the other end of the device there's a short USB or USB-C cable to connect to your laptop. I have this sitting under the rear dinette seat but have not needed it since the original install. Though I believe I will need it again soon to up my batteries charge rate from 50A to 100A. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNBVKSTH/

The Victron Multiplus II and many other capable inverter models have a built-in ATS. The 2KW Xantrex OTT originally installed in our hull had an external ATS and remote power switch. These are two different worlds. True for those not connected to shore power, without rooftop solar and/or who store long-term indoors. If not, as in my case the solar produces 10x parasitic draw on a daily basis. In fact, I can be 60% SOC on 600Ah LiFePO4 batteries, running exterior courtesy lights and in a few days SOC is 100%. Even in winter sun in AZ, and yes as you wrote in our "home area." However, I truly recommend those who have full inverter/charger capability, 3KW with built-in ATS, Xantrex or Victron, leave your inverters ON always when your Oliver is in use (I know some manufactures say not too, but I have trouble being told what to do without valid reason)! It protects against power outages, brown-outs, if Victron it provides power-assist and more. Heck, I've been running our A/C one hour prior to arriving at a full hook-up site and when we get there the cabin is cool and no hurry plugging in unless SOC is near 20%. Of course, you must have viable Ah capacity in LiFePO4 to do so. Use the technology that God and Mankind has provided us! It's wonderful and we finally had a wonderful 5-week trip to truly experience the amazing features, in all the upgrades I've made to our Oliver and tow vehicle! 😂

it is my understanding that the A/C loads are run through a separate Auto Transfer Switch. The ATS is then connected to the inverter. The reason is to allow the A/C load to be powered up by either the ATS (On shore power) or to be powered up by the Inverter. It would seem logical that regardless of how wonderful (Yes inverter envy) your inverter is , it would still be switching between an ATS or the Inverter power created by the Iithos to the inverter. Not having either a separate ATS or an Multiplus 2 (Inverter envy) would when running the A/c and microwave would over amp the OEM single ATS. It is for this reason that John Davies encouraged us to add a second ATS if going to battery powered A/C. That's a valid choice for your home area. But for others: One reason to turn it off would be parasitic draw, Over time even in standby mode, one ends up using a lot of power regardless if on shore power or not. For some : OK for some Not. A second is that all electronic components have a finite life span. That life is generally determined by the number of hours it is turned on. There is an exception to this concept and that is for folks in a high humidity areas. Keeping the home fire burning to keep the electronics' dry works well for some. But not everybody.

It really depends. Geoff really explained every facet nicely and fully in detail. Everybody should read his post a few times! When we had the OTT installed 2KW Xantrex, when OFF shore power you had to turn the inverter on to run anything 120VAC, but not the air. You wanted it off most of the time if you're running on LA or AGM batteries, when not needing AC appliances/outlets so you would not loose SOC%. With a 3KW inverter installed, generally all AC circuits run through the inverter including the A/C. This is also how I installed our Victron Multiplus 2. I see no reason to ever turn off our inverter, so we don't. In fact since I installed it a year ago it has been on 24x7x365 unless it's on high amp charge when I'm trying to get to sleep and it's making some noise under my bed. Then I turn it OFF via the Bluetooth app and turn it back ON when I wake. With ample Ah LiFePO4 batteries and rooftop solar and the fact that our hull sits outdoors and does not get winterized nor go in storage, our Victron MP2 in ALWAYS powered on ready to use anytime.

You're welcome Gary. Keep in mind there is the original Victron Multiplus (MP) and more recently the Multiplus II (MP2). Mike who started this thread and I both went with the MP2. One member who was first went with the older model MP since the MP2 had not yet been on the market. They are both very good, but the MP2 is more efficient and uses less power on standby. I supplied a link before for the MP2 and I believe you went that way. Earlier I explained that you did not need the UL tested model required for residential. The MP is shorter but comes off the wall 9-10" The MP2 is 20" long and about 6" deep making it a good fit for under the bed sideways. Mike and I installed under the streetside bed. Another member installed, I think the MP (vs. MP2) under the front dinette seat. In our hull the front dinette is for Chris where she keeps dogfood and coffee, TP and other stuff. Mike used adhesive to glue a mounting board as you can see in the first 1-2 pages of this thread. I built a foundation as you can see in the link below. Mike and I believe everybody else added the Cerbo and touch screen. I went without it and ordered this simple Bluetooth device. The screens are cool, but I went without the extra costs and drilling more holes in the hull. You can connect to a screen AND/OR use this to connect by Bluetooth. Either will allow you to turn on/off the MP2. Once installed and confugured there is no need to touch the hardware again unless make future mods. https://www.amazon.com/Victron-VE-Bus-Dongle-Multiplus-Inverter/dp/B07FCV43LQ/

For those that have upgraded to the Victron MP2. I am thinking about swapping out my Xantrex 2000 for a Victron Multiplus II 3000 and installing Lithium batteries. The part that I need help with is the wiring from the PD 4000 distribution panel and bypassing or disconnecting the charger. Still need converter portion for shore 110v? MP2 for Inverter DC to AC, power switch (Shore to DC, DC to Shore) and charging. Does the OEM wiring from the junction box on Xantrex end just go into the AC IN and AC OUT on the Victron Multiplus? Or do you need to run the shore power out of EMS to Multiplus AC IN and then back to distribution panel. Do you simply disconnect charger? If you run new longer feed from the EMS to MP 2 AC IN then can you use the AC OUT back to the PD 4000? OR does the EMS to MP2 go back to shore power in the same AC in on back of PD 4000. Any clarification on these questions or pics would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to figure it all out before hiring someone or diving in myself. I, also, just want to understand how it works. Thanks in advance for any feedback. Mike

Yah I'm not sure, but I have seen many other "reputable" solar installers use that red bluesea switch as a solar and battery disconnect. The Oliver double hull fibreglass is best in class quality, but as far as I'm concerned they can do better with some of the electrical (and other) components. I believe in 2023 they dumped the zamp and went with Victron charge controllers and the BMV712 which I'm a huge fan off! Next I would like to see a Victron Multiplus II inverter, Cerbo GX, and to clean up all the buss bars and fuses a Victron Energy Lynx Distributor - and yes I understand it boils down to $$.

WOW. My thoughts on your Options. 1. No way do I have enough coins in the couch to pay $10,000 for the Mothership to do this. Option 2. At 73 I would not be where I am today, if not for “A Little Help From My Friends.” $2 to $3,000 is worth it to have upgrade to have possibility to Boondocks for a few days. Option 3. I am willing to buy the Victron 3KVA. I see there 3 different ones on Amazon; 1. Victron Energy MultiPlus-II Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger, UL-Certified, 48/3000/35-50 120V For $1168.75. 2. Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2X Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt For $1,088.00 3. Victron Energy MultiPlus-II Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt For $997.05. For the small difference happy to spend on #1 if it makes a difference. JD says based on what I have now, I should be able to add the Lithium batteries and install the rest when I get to the April Rally, with the help from my Ollie Friends. What else will I need to add before I head up to the Ollie. Thanks for taking the time to read what I hope makes sense and taking the time to respond. Gary Hull 292 2017 Build, bought new in 2018 and new to us in Dec 2025 IMG_2837.mov

For the main battery fuse, check your inverter spec. OTT had a 250A ANL fuse installed in our hull for the 2KW Xantrex that was our original system. When I upgraded to the Victron Multiplus II 3KVA Inverter-Charger the manual stated using a 400A fuse. Most applicable inverter specs will be in the range is 250-400A. When choosing a cut-off switch, it should be rated equal to or above the proper fuse rating. Most go with the available Blu Sea 300A or 350A rated switches. For your solar, use what is specified for the solar charger. Or if your MPPT Solar charger is rated for 30A, then a 35A or 40A breaker or fuse is appropriate. Our Blue Sky SC is rated for 25A and OTT installed a 30A breaker. When I added a Victron 30A MPPT SC, I believe the book said 35-40A and I installed a 35A breaker. So not to get shock while working with battery cables --- It is common practice when installing battery cables is to install the B+ side first since when the ground is not connected, the B+ side has no potential. When removing battery cables, use the reverse order, remove the B- side first. This is why in my battery installation, I positioned the main B- battery closest to the door. This way I can remove the ground (vs. having a switch) even without sliding the tray open and the closest B+ connection is 8" deeper into the battery bay, providing a very low chance of touching it by accident.

I thought to find an old thread I had remembered reading, just after I had joined the OTT Forum. At first, I did not understand the value of this feature. How would Victron Power Assist be of value in a real-world use case? Thank you @Ty J and others who had contributed here (now over 2 years ago). We love our Victron Multiplus II, OMG! Camping in south central Kansas, a muggy day that was going get hot, mid-to-high 80s over the afternoon, and we wanted to go for the day... Leaving our older pup Charley to rest in the Oliver while we were gone. The Dometic with SoftStart would not run on this public "20A circuit" alone, without blowing the breaker. I set the MP2 limit setting for incoming amps to 15A to be very safe 75% of the 20A commercial circuit (to lower the probability of blowing the breaker). We ran the Dometic Pengiun 2 A/C, set to 69F. The 600 Ah batteries were high 90s SOC due to our Orion DC-DC charger running as we drove in the day before. The Victron app showed -40A on startup, so I was thinking we would lose 30-40% SOC while gone for 4-5 hours. We were gone a full 5 hours. The SOC on 600 Ah, in Power Assist mode, dropped only 20% (compressor only running 60% of total time). All was good, A/C running, the Oliver interior nicely cooled down and all systems running as programmed. These are the results. Notice AC OUT at 1684W - 1226W AC IN = 458W supplied by batteries (at 96% efficiency: 458W / 13V x 36.7A). I've never before seen this screen on the Victron Connect app for the MP2. There truly is a working Power Assist mode, not only in how the MP2 Inverter/Charger functions, but as a listed display mode as shown. This feature works well and as advertised. 😂

Good to read this Gary. You've really made progress here! Having the mobile guy come out was the #3 option I suggested in another thread. 3 hours would be amazing (don't count on it) and get him to do the 5 hours max with Multiplus configuration which should only take 20 minutes. The Multiplus requires setting physical dipswitches (this was replaced by software in the MP2). You want LiFePO4 settings of course and for Epoch batteries I set bulk charge to 14.2V and all other charge settings to 13.6, but check for these numbers in the user manual for your specific battery choice. I'm not seeing any reason for external Zamp ports unless at some point you add portable solar (and when you do, add one Zamp/SAE or other port without drilling 5 holes into your hull like OTT does)! This guy has thorough Victron installation and configuration videos. He shows the Mk-3 USB interface I mentioned previously. I purchased the newer USB-C version which is the next-gen interface, given your laptop has a USB-C port (standard USB ports will soon not be offered on laptops. My new Dell Latitude 9330 has 3 USB-C ports only).

Overview We just got done upgrading our 2018 LEII (hull #344) from AGM to Lithium. The death knell had sounded for our original AGM batteries. So, given the cost to replace the AGMs, their weight, and the limited usable capacity inherent in AGMs, we decided to upgrade to lithium. We settled on 2, Epoch 300 Ah LiPO4 batteries with internal heating (a total of 600 Ah). The decision to purchase the Epochs was made easier by a 15% sale so we bit the bullet and purchased the batteries , a new Victron Multiplus 2 3000 VA inverter and charger, and a Victron Orion DC to DC charger which will allow us to charge directly from the tow vehicle. Here are more specific details about each step. We relied to a great extent on our tech. Victron Orion DC to DC charging We mounted the 50 amp Victron Orion under the aft seat in the dinette. The Orion was set to draw 30 amps from the alternator on the 2020 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel tow vehicle. The alternator puts out about 220 amps so we are confident this is well within safe operating parameters with all existing loads. We used 4 awg coupled to a marine connector from the TV to the trailer which looks to be quite robust. Of course, we disconnected the power from the 7-pin connector. Victron Multiplus 2, 3000 VA inverter and charger We mounted the inverter vertically under the streetside bunk. We also added a dc fan onto the bulkhead between the bunk and the basement to address heat issues and set it to operate above 40C. The inverter has a main disconnect as well as an inline breaker as per code. System Monitoring A Victron Multicontrol replaced the Progressive Technologies inverter switch from the OEM install and was installed in the same location. This is our primary control panel which provides operational status of the system, and allows us to control the input current. Specific battery State of Charge and other more granular data are available in the Victron shunt app, the Epoch app, and the Victron Multiplus app (as well as the original Xantrex Solar Controller which we did not change). Performance of the system We tested the system today by running our OEM Dometic Penguin A/C off the battery bank. We set the thermostat to 75 F. After 5 hours, we were at 55% SOC. Full disclosure, we only finished the install today and the tests were conducted in our winter conditions here in the Keys at 78 F ambient. The trailer did get warm during the day, but I do think we are likely to get 5 hours or so of A/C in the hotter summer months. Maybe even more. We haven't tested the DC to DC other than at idle. As mentioned, we set the charger to 30 amps so we are likely to get a full charge after a full day driving but that is just an estimate. We have enough leeway to turn up the output from the alternator if needed. Special KUDOS A great deal of thanks goes to our tech who helped install all this - Anthony from Outboard Rigging here in Marathon is the Man! Pictures of the install follows:

A 300A should be between the battery + and the inverter and a fuse is much preferred over a breaker since it protect both sides, the batteries and the inverter, where a breaker is directional. Our Victron Multiplus specs a 400A fuse for this (ANL or better yet a Class-T fuse). A 60A breaker or less (40A or 30A depending on your equipment) would be used for internal circuits like the 12V fuse panel or solar chargers, etc. I don't see any need for a 100A breaker in the Oliver circuitry, but maybe they're doing something different in newer hulls.

Rob, I hardly ever look at the IPN remote (pic1) since I have added a Victron SmartShunt at the main battery ground and use Victron and Epoch apps instead. The IPN remote screen shows +25.6A charging at 13.7V. I suggest, Ignore the voltage number knowing that the Blue Sky MPPT is supplying +25.6A to the batteries, hence it is charging! If a battery is at say 13.3V and the charger is trying to push 14.2, the reading cannot be 14.2 since it is connected to the battery at a lower voltage. Voltage readings are potential of the circuit, NOT what you have set Bulk charge to, the 14.2V Epoch spec. We have four (4) chargers; the Blue Sky MPPT, Victron 30A MPPT for suitcase solar, Victron 120A Multiplus II and Orion XS 50A DC-DC chargers, all set to the Epoch specs of 13.6V and 14.2V as you have on your IPN remote interface to your Blue Sky MPPT charger. I have never seen the 14.2V bulk charge rate on any of these chargers. I see 13.6V or 13.7V and never higher. Get the Epoch app loaded on your phone. The app is free and I have found you can only count on a reliable SOC% via the Epoch App measuring battery SOC internally (pic2). The screen capture on the left was taken when I started the TV, Orion DC-DC and Blue Sky chargers combined providing net +47.3A to the batteries at 59% SOC. The screen to the right shows battery SOC at 81% hours later after we parked at a campsite, engine off (hence DC-DC charger OFF) and with less sun later in the day and fridge still on DC the batteries are supplying net -5.7A. Note that voltage measured at the batteries was only 13.4V when the DC-DC charge was ON (not pictured, it was 13.7V measured at the charger) and after the charger was OFF battery voltage was 13.3V. The Bottom Line: There is nothing wrong with your system as wired as long as you are seeing +A on the IPN Remote relative to the amount of available sunshine. I get >+20A when the sun is good, closer to +10A early or late in the day or when partly cloudy. Good thing your noticing these things. Get the Epoch app to read your battery SOC%.