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In what I've read so far, at least @Overland and @Ty J, and more recently @rideadeuce have upgraded to the Victron 3KVA Multiplus or MPII. Maybe others? If I remember correctly, Overland installed the original Multiplus and others went with MPII. Does the Multiplus II truly have necessary features. I read 1 amp less draw on stand-by, thinner (but not actually smaller), anything else? I see just fitting the Multiplus in my current Xantrex location (rear dinette seat), where the MPII would certainly be too long. I'd like to avoid adding extra 12V cable length installing it under the bed area or front dinette seat, though there is nothing but room up front and I haven't yet moved that bed since I've been working on the other side. Overland worked a novel installation! He also stated (cannot find the quote today), something like you could keep the batteries in the battery bay or install the inverter there (he wrote it better). Wow, thank you, that got me thinking! Overland also commented the Multiplus was not noisy except when supplying a large AC load or upon shore power connection/bulk charging. It is quiet enough under the dinette seat when just using small AC appliances like when watching TV? Is the MPII truly more efficient? Could it be quieter? I just purchased two 300AH Epoch batteries and I cannot believe FedEx tracking says they will be here on Tuesday. It only makes sense to work these installs together.

I got a lot done this week! 🤣 In introduction, our 2016 Hull #113 has roof-mounted 340W Zamp solar, and had a 2KW Xantrex inverter (only with separate PD4000 converter) and 450AH 6V lead-acid batteries renewed in 2021. Given a recent price reduction and a 10% off sale with free shipping, we were motivated to purchase two Epoch 300AH LiFePO4 batteries for a total of 600AH and it made sense to upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger at the same time. Everything described to follow came to $3200 total investment including all small parts and the costs of many on-hand shop materials. Just two years ago, the cost of the LiFePO4 batteries alone would be nearly double! First, all the old had to be removed. Demolition is always fun first step in a project! I removed the lead-acid batteries (sold them on Craigs in just a few days) and all the cables, the Inverter, the ATS and junction box. It’s crazy how OTT wired shore power to inverter power, using wire nuts in this junction box, real backyard mechanic stuff (correct design would be to use a dual-bus power panel). Everything in these pics has been removed (anybody need a 2kW Xantrex system or spare parts)? The second crazy thing is where they installed the main DC fuse (see pic). No way would I have known it's up there until I removed the cables! To access this fuse, you have to sit low reaching through the rear dinette seat.

I had just installed a Beech Lane dual cooling fan for the fridge cavity and thought the same fan would be great to vent the basement area under the streetside bed. A 3KVA inverter produces a great amount of heat when inverting and charging large amperage. I was waiting on delivery of the Victron Multiplus II inverter anyway and it makes sense to install this before the large inverter is in the way. This fan is a dual 5” fan. I had a 4” hole saw available and thought that was enough of an opening to clear the hot air in this small basement space. I ended up using a jigsaw to cut a straight line opening above and below (not pictured). Notice the L-bracket top-right in pictures, necessary since this wallboard is only connected to the floor and outer wall. Then I hung the fan inside, added a wire loom. I used the grill that I removed from the furnace return when I added a filter there. Yes, the control and grill are hung upside down. I could have wired it the other way, but the wires would have to loop below. I keep a duffle bag there, so I pointed the vent up to blow over it.

For those that have upgraded to the Victron MP2. I am thinking about swapping out my Xantrex 2000 for a Victron Multiplus II 3000 and installing Lithium batteries. The part that I need help with is the wiring from the PD 4000 distribution panel and bypassing or disconnecting the charger. Still need converter portion for shore 110v? MP2 for Inverter DC to AC, power switch (Shore to DC, DC to Shore) and charging. Does the OEM wiring from the junction box on Xantrex end just go into the AC IN and AC OUT on the Victron Multiplus? Or do you need to run the shore power out of EMS to Multiplus AC IN and then back to distribution panel. Do you simply disconnect charger? If you run new longer feed from the EMS to MP 2 AC IN then can you use the AC OUT back to the PD 4000? OR does the EMS to MP2 go back to shore power in the same AC in on back of PD 4000. Any clarification on these questions or pics would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to figure it all out before hiring someone or diving in myself. I, also, just want to understand how it works. Thanks in advance for any feedback. Mike

From the Mulitplus manual: "Automatic and uninterruptible switching In the event of a supply failure or when the generating set is switched off, the MultiPlus will switch over to inverter operation and take over the supply of the connected devices. This is done so quickly that operation of computers and other electronic devices is not disturbed (Uninterruptible Power Supply or UPS functionality). This makes the MultiPlus highly suitable as an emergency power system in industrial and telecommunication applications." The ability for the inverter to choose between an AC source or DC battery power is what I meant by internal ATS and ALL Victron 3KW inverter/chargers (and greater models) have this functionality. They all also have Power Assist, which is not only internal switching but smart partial switching when shore power is lacking in covering the full load, it pulls what's necessary from the battery bank. Another way to word this is these more capable inverters do not require an external switch, like the Xantrex PROwatt SW (see pic1) or the KISAE TS20 that some of us have added to switch the air conditioning between AC/DC. The common usage of the term ATS in a RV is the switching between generator and shore power, like the PD5100 (see pic2) installed in our Olivers. The Quattro can switch AC/DC uninterruptable as the Multiplus and ALSO has the capability to switch between 2 AC sources like the PD5100, hence the PD could be eliminated if installing a Quattro. I thought about this for about a second, but it's more expensive and I'm not running a generator anyway with a 3KW inverter and 600AH in new LiFePO4 batteries. I had a PD5100 fry in our Bigfoot RV that I replaced, but if it does so in the Oliver with this upgrade we'll just run on the inverter. It's funny in the video, he used the name Multiplus all through the video and in his last sentence he said "Quattro." The 3KW Multiplus, MPII, Quattro, and other high-end models, all have a 50A line1 output. In my hull the Xantrex PROwatt SW is wired to all AC circuits but the air conditioner. The purpose of the KISAE TS20 is to add another ATS for the air. When the Multiplus is installed, given 50A output for a 30A panel, it will be wired to all loads on the panel, including the air conditioner, and no need for external switches like the Xantrex PROwatt SW and KISEA TS20! Why not?

The MultiPlus-II combines the functions of the MultiPlus and the MultiGrid. It has all the features of the MultiPlus, plus an external current transformer option to implement PowerControl and PowerAssist and to optimize self-consumption with external current sensing (max. 32A). - Victron The MultiPlus-II is a newer model; it is also a single inverter/charger unit, but it has some improvements over the original MultiPlus. It has a more powerful microprocessor, which allows it to provide more accurate and precise control over the charging process. - Victron MP-II form factor is longer and slimmer. So, depending on install may be easier to mount. Idle power draw is less for the MP2 11w vs 25w for the original. Having installed it, in retrospect, I might look at using Victron Lynx power distribution instead of DIY bus bars. A lot to think about. Best, Mike

You may want to call Victron or Victron rep and have a chat. They're both great units. Same warranty. Some many discussions on victron forum https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/63741/difference-between-multiplus-and-multiplus-ii.html

I want to thank all that provided good feedback here! Always helpful. Want to show you my first step with a platform for the Victron Multiplus-II (see pics). More on this in a couple of weeks as I will start a new build thread. I'm waiting on the MP2. The Florida company Inverter Supply must receive shipment from the manufacturer and then ship to me. Thought I would get it this week, but it will be another week. I'm getting installation parts here and there. Love how this first step turned out. I had to put a steel cutting blade in my power miter saw. One mounting ear had to be cut back to slip it under and the two mounting brackets had to be cut to fit side-by-side. This base will hold the weight of the MP2 and I will build a 6x24" platform above it. It will just sit on the floor since I will not drill into the bottom/outer hull. The MP2 will also be strapped above. Much more later in mod post! 😂

Replacing xantrax on my Oliver Elite II 2021. Can't beat power assist on Victron components (Uses battery to meet power requirements when specificed amount of current is set) I have had Victron Multiplus in my old camper and I am crying for the first time , I hate drilling into this beautiful Elite but can't get wires from upper cabinet to lower components without drilling. Going to install Victron MPPT - 100 /30 for outside solar panels 400 watts of ground deployed solar panels Victron Orion 12 volt to 12 Volt charger for vehicle charging and for a Pecron 500 amp hour battery I have under the bed. Victron Smartshunt for monitoring batteries Victron Cerbo GX for the brains of the operation all components plug into and are monitored by this device. Victron small touch screen Built wood support for Multiplus much heavier than xantrax probably double. (I did not lift or look at weights but had a friend put in place) (6 back surgeries lifting days are over) Here are some pictures Had one heck of time getting hole centered perfect to drill. Went as far as I could in corner of cabinet . . . . . .Little scary but turned out ok. Going to work on Battery box holes at same time and maybe add ventilation for batteries at same time. Thanks to everyone for posting information on ventilation Take care Montana Oliver

Just decided on the MP2 for the sole reason is its dimensions. Wow, the 2x120V version is amazing for those with 50A RV systems but we only need a single 120VAC input and output. There are grid capabilities in the MP2 for home use that doesn't matter for RV usage. The original MP is actually smaller in volume, 2 LBS lighter, but the 8.6" depth vs. 6" is the real difference. Also, the MP has an aluminum casing vs. thin steel which may be better in some climates. Under the streetside bed as Mike @rideadeuce installed will be my choice too. I will figure out a footing and strapping for the MP2 without the heavy HDPE and epoxy. The MP2 is 23" long, almost 9" longer but there is a lot of length under the bed. I just added the Beech Lane dual fan for fridge cooling and if needed this would be a great addition to add it the wall to the rear going to the trunk area. I did not hear from any of the 3 or more Oliver owners with in an installed Multiplus re inverter or fan noise. Sure hope it is not noisy as it will be under my bed! Hoping the MP2 has dual battery terminals. It looks like Mikes does in the pics. I see pics from Victron, some show single screw terminal and most show a built-in terminal/bus with dual screw terminals. I have no interest in Victron Lynx buses or any additional bus for that matter. The Oliver already has DC buses installed. One terminal on the MP2 will of course connect directly to the batteries and I will use the second terminal to run 12VDC to the Oliver buses. There will only be the 4/0 cables in the battery bay. Still working on best price and will place an order Monday latest. I'm getting the Victron VE.Bus Smart dongle to program the MP2 and read status via the Victron app. This would be in place of any wall-mounted display accessories. I read I may also need a Victron Current Transformer for the Power Assist to work effectively. These are relatively inexpensive parts. Yesterday, I removed the lead-acid batteries. Today I'm pulling the 2KW Xantrex inverter, the Xantrex ATS and junction box. This is a complete OTT installed working system if anybody needs one. Put the LA batteries on Craigs, who knows. Will oen up the EMS and the 120V AC panel to ready the wiring. Building the MP2 platform will take some thinking! 😂

Doubling up cables can increase the overall amperage in the connection. They have tables for that online. The dual terminals in the Victron multiplus can be used in this way, but as evidenced above, one 4/1 is already overkill. I'm going to use the second post to connect 12VDC +/- to the Oliver 12VDC fuse panel. The OEM wiring has both connected directly to the batteries. This will clean up the battery bay, using the built-in Victron bus vs. adding another. The true reason for the dual terminal is that Victron products are designed to be installed in multiples. Use of the second terminal can daisy-chain multiple inverters side-by-side.

Why MPII vs. original Multiplus? What other Victron HW? Thanks

https://www.currentconnected.com/product/victron-48v-multiplus-2-5kva-120v-inverter-70a-charger/

Several people have done that. A link to a search for "multiplus." https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/search/?&q=Multiplus&search_and_or=or

When I read this yesterday, I was thinking I would have to do the same upgrade prior to adding LiFePO4 batteries. Then I realized there may be a bigger plan in my future. Many of us have this inverter: Amazon.com: Xantrex Prowatt SW2000 2000W True Sinewave Inverter Model# 806-1220 : Automotive This model is inverter only, hence the separate charger (and hulls without an inverter only have the PD charger). What if I was wanting to upgrade to a 3KW inverter at some point? Many new inverters on the market are inverter/chargers and may have superior charging performance over this upgraded PD charger. Although it may be difficult to fit an inverter/charger like one of these, under the rear dinette seat where OTT mounted the Xantrex in our hull. It would also need modification to wiring if the PD charger was to be deleted. Amazon.com: Victron Energy MultiPlus-II Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt : Automotive Amazon.com: Victron Energy MultiPlus Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 3000VA 12-Volt : Automotive

I have to ask why so many of you are using 4/0 cable? My Oliver came with 2/0. Victron specifies 1/0 for the feed to the 3000va Multiplus 2 inverter for lengths less than 5 meters and 2/0 for 5 to 10 meters. Just concerned that I’m misunderstanding the wire ampacity tables.

@rich.dev has the 3KW Xantrex. I hope your model has built-in ATS. I'm replacing for sure and will purchase next week now that our batteries are on the way. My criteria for replacing is the 2KW inverter is first that it's borderline on running the A/C for any period of time in HOT conditions. Also, I've never purchased an inverter without built-in ATS, can't have the goofy 15A outlets. Those are for those that cannot wire an AC outlet, just plug in the blow dryer right into the inverter! 🤣 My inverter must have built-in ATS with hardwired 120V AC IN and OUT terminals (I also want to know if the Victron Multiplus fails, is the fail-safe condition is that it still allows pass-thru shore power AC). So, back to the questions posed above...

Just waiting for the Xantrex 3000 in our 2023 to kick the bucket when I will definitely upgrade to the Victron multiplus II, mainly for the power assist/load sharing functionality of it….explained nicely in this video.

I am going to be replacing my old Victron color display (push button) which took the place of the old Zamp solar charger. So yes, doing the same. For anyone reading the install, this is what I was trying to do without success so far, "The best place to insert a multiplus is inbetween the ATS (assuming you have a generator) or shore power input (if you don't) and the breaker panel itself. That way the shore or generator power will charge the batteries, and the inverter itself keeps the power on even without shore or generator. It also enables the power assist mode to function correctly, where you can dial down the current limit to match the available power, and then no longer need a power shedding device to avoid overload. Any outlets that have GFCI then continue to have GFCI as they should. Those that don't are probably better not to have GFCI, as heavy loads (air conditioner, electric heat) would end up often tripping the GFCI inconveniently and unnecessarily. The one drawback though is that you *must* then have the multiplus in on or charge only mode to have shore power pass through. If you turn it to OFF, there will be no power at any outlet, regardless of the presence of shore or generator power available. Also, no backfeeding. You don't want to deal with islanding, and you don't have to since the multiplus will do the right thing if wired correctly. Shore/gen (or ATS) is connected to AC IN1, and AC OUT1 goes to breaker panel. That's it. You *can* use AC OUT2 to switch additional loads based on other criteria (see relay assistant for control of ACOUT2 relay) but that would require an additional breaker as you couldn't then put that switched power through the existing breaker panel. Note that if you have an existing converter/charger plugged into power from the breaker panel, this will have to be removed/disabled to avoid setting up a loop (120->12->120->...) This is all assuming you have a single phase breaker panel, or one where the two phases have been merged with a jumper wire (also assuming 30a 120vac service here, not 50a 240/120 split, in which case get a multiplus2-2x). If you do have a 30a split panel (where an existing inverter has already been wired in) you would need to either connect it up the same way as the original inverter (one side of the split is "shore", the other side is "inverter"), or if you wanted to power everything through the multiplus (gain ability to operate aircon from battery) then you want to merge the two sides of the split (jumper between the two 30a breakers) and wire the multiplus in as above (shore/gen->ats->multiplus->breakers). I do this on a regular basis (upgrading mostly b, some c class RVs).

Follow up on this post - Anyone here with the Victron Multiplus that can verify the power boost function adequately starts their A/C when using a single 2200 watt inverter generator? I tried starting our Houghton/Rec-Pro A/C with paralleled Honda 2200's in ECO mode without success. Contemplating addition of a soft-start, but might not be necessary if the Victron MP2 can provide enough amps to get past the inrush current during compressor start.

Mike, I know you did the Epoch battery upgrade. Did you ever install a Victron MP2? I've been under the dinette rear seat a bit lately. Wasted my time on adding a KISAE ATS since the Victron MP2 has an internal ATS. I just spent an hour or more figuring out this same scenario in my head and came back in the house and searched for the term 'Multiplus' and found your post. We came to the same conclusion, as what you wrote above appears correct to me. You only need L2 for AC circuits you do not want to run off battery. I do not fully understand the L2 output, because if it is a pass-thru why do they mention 40ms? But for the Oliver, with 920AH in batteries and soon you will have an efficient Atmos A/C, you could connect the MP2 L1 output to the entire 120V AC panel, just as the wiring coming from the EMS powers the full panel today (you can see this wiring in the picture). The MP2 is 50A capable and we have a 30A panel and shore power connection. I would imagine with this setup you could run the A/C and microwave at the same time and perhaps more given enough battery SOC. I just measured mine. So, the Xantrex 2000 will come out and the Victron ATS and junction box (not visible), and the KISEA top left in the pic will all be removed. The PD charger can also come out of the panel, and I figured a larger cooling fan could go there and maybe a 3" vent at the top of the dinette seat. With all that removed, the space on mine is 20" wide, 16 1/2" tall and full depth is 11". The MP2 measures 14.3" tall, 10.2" wide and 8.6" deep. There is just enough space to wire it vertically as suggested, with maybe enough room for cabling out of the bottom and no extra room on top (should be 4"). There is ample space to mount it horizontally and with a vent and fan. It would be cool if an external fan can be controlled by the MP2 as it has so many ports, some programmable. For me funding an A/C upgrade, LI batteries and the MP2 will take a while, but I believe it is a great plan to pursue.

I am thinking about swapping out Xantrex 2000 for a Victron Multiplus II 3000 and installing upgraded Lithium batteries. The part that I need help with is the wiring from the PD 4000 distribution panel and bypassing or disconnecting the charger. Still need converter portion for shore 110v? MP2 for Inverter DC to AC, power switch (Shore to DC, DC to Shore) and charging. Does the OEM wiring from the junction box on Xantrex end just go into the AC IN and AC OUT on the Victron Multiplus? Or do you need to run the shore power out of EMS to Multiplus AC IN and then back to distribution panel. Do you simply disconnect charger? If you run new longer feed from the EMS to MP 2 AC IN then can you use the AC OUT back to the PD 4000? OR does the EMS to MP2 go back to shore power in the same AC in on back of PD 4000. Any clarification on these questions or pics would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to figure it all out before hiring someone or diving in myself. I, also, just want to understand how it works. Thanks in advance for any feedback. Mike

It says on the mp2 datasheet: ”Two AC Outputs The main output has no break functionality. The MultiPlus takes over the supply to the connected 120V loads in the event of a grid failure or when shore/generator power is disconnected. The transfer time of the L1 output is less than 18 milliseconds so that computers and other electronic equipment will continue to operate without disruption. The transfer time of the L2 output is longer: approximately 40 milliseconds. The second (auxiliary) output is live only when AC is available on the input of the MultiPlus. Loads that should not discharge the battery can be connected to this output.”

It says on the mp2 datasheet: ”Two AC Outputs The main output has no break functionality. The MultiPlus takes over the supply to the connected 120V loads in the event of a grid failure or when shore/generator power is disconnected. The transfer time of the L1 output is less than 18 milliseconds so that computers and other electronic equipment will continue to operate without disruption. The transfer time of the L2 output is longer: approximately 40 milliseconds. The second (auxiliary) output is live only when AC is available on the input of the MultiPlus. Loads that should not discharge the battery can be connected to this output.” You might try asking service how they connect up their 3000 watt inverter to run both a/c and outlets.

@SeaDawg, I still have the Navion 24V. I chose the Multiplus over the Multiplus II. The Multiplus was a couple of hundred dollars less money. The Multiplus II is capable of handling Grid applications or functions. I saw no merit to the Grid capabilities. Victron sells either the MultiPlus or the MultiPlusII in various VA. The Victron solution has worked flawlessly for several years. I also employed the Victron and Battleborn system in my sailboat. Albeit, the sailbot was for racing and has a spartan interior, ie no Hot water, HVAC or Solar. I was concerned with powering running lights, autopilot and instruments. The battleborn afforded all the power I ever required as long as I monitored the battery temperature and kept it about 80 degrees F or less. I delivered sailboats to the Caribbean, Fllorida and two trips to England after I retired in 2000. The vast majority had a Victron system. As John Davies pointed out proper installation, temperatures and SOC, the Victron System is almost Bullet Proof. Respectfully, George Bergh