Leaking Oliver Light

[Mike and Carol]

I know there are several threads on leaks from the Oliver light on the back of the trailer.  I’ve read them all.

I have a small drip from the Oliver insert that runs down to the window.  We noticed water dripping from the middle of the bottom of the window on this May trip.  Our first leak!  All the marker lights are good.

I would rather not remove the Oliver insert.   Just caulk around it.  I don’t want to use silicone, I usually make a mess with it.  From what I’ve read some owners used 3M 4200 or 3M 4000.  3M 5200 is not recommended.  Any thoughts on what to use?  Mike

[DavePhelps]

Our favorite subject....sealants!

That darn Oliver light strikes again. You may want to rethink not removing the lense, but I understand why you would not want to. My lense (hull 107) was "bedded" in some open cell foam weatherstripping. It was totally useless as a secondary barrier for the 3M 4200 that I think was applied around the perimeter of the lense. Thankfully it was not silicone. After a thorough cleaning, I used butyl tape to bed the lense, then Sikaflex 291 to seal around the edge. Several years later no leaks at all. There's been talk of the new polyether sealants on the market. I tried a tube and found it not very workable...maybe a bad tube? It was not past the expiration date. They say the polyethers play well with plastics where the polyurethanes do not, but I have not noticed any adverse reactions with my Oliver lense, and I like the 291 for everything else. If you want to give the polyether a try, and don't want to remove the lense, then maybe this is the way to go:

https://www.westmarine.com/3m-4000-uv-fast-cure-polyether-adhesive-sealant-white-10-oz.-cartridge-3760196.html?queryID=d26afaac5e5422519ed7e4ec5eec6510&objectID=3760196&indexName=production_na01_westmarine_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US

Tape around the outer perimeter on the gelcoat, and you can tape the lense as well to help with getting clean lines. Take your time with the tape, use small pieces to define the radiused corners.Try not to get too much sealant in there! When you tool it off with a little paint thinner on your gloved finger, the sealant edge should just butt into the tape edge. If a lot of the sealant goes over the tape, then when you remove it, you're going to have a mess to deal with. Tool the sealant tight to the edge of the tape! Once the tape is off, a very light swipe with a thinner soaked gloved finger will smooth out the small ridges left from pulling the tape. Those ridges will collect dirt and look bad after a while so I think that last light swipe is important. Good luck. Keep an eye on your marker lights up there. One started to leak and the water ran down the wire to its low point, right over a neutral bussbar. Good luck!

Dave

 

[SeaDawg]

You know my feelings on the Oliver light. Permanent solution is remove, rebed with butyl, and add mechanical fasteners/ screws. Butyl is a wonderful, pretty much permanent sealant, but not an adhesive.

That said, loctite marine sealant, fast cure is what we've been using as a polyether flexible sealant adhesive for a number of years, ollie and boat. No yellowing in Florida sun (yet.) Polyethers play well with fiberglass, wood, and plastics.

Def no to 5200. Either of the 3m 4000 or 4200 are difficult to remove, later, imo, though 4000 has better uv resistance,  so I've read.

Pick your poison. And, add an eyebrow of rv Eze gutter over the light, as a bonus. 

The loctite product is "reasonable" at about $17 at lowes or Depot. Do read the date code. It's sometimes out of date at big box stores, and then it's tough to work, and useless. 

 

 

Edited May 24 by SeaDawg

[DavePhelps]

Seadawg,

What do you use as a tooling lubricant for the PL marine? I had no luck with it using multiple different solvents. I went back to my Sika 291....

Also, with a quality butyl tape like Bed-it tape, I do not think mechanical fastening is necessary for something like the Oliver lense, unless you like the look.
Mine stuck down with powerful tenacity. Then adhesive sealant was added to that. It's not going anywhere. Your choice!

Dave

 

[SeaDawg]

Dave, bed-it is advertised as a sealant, not adhesive. I've never used it, so can't comment, but we've always used mechanical fastening with butyl.  Their website seems to indicate need for mechanical fasteners. It's not strictly butyl, bit a proprietary synthetic. I'm going to look into it further.

https://bed-it.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8dXGcsPUM4Q1gkegJ1KqTXDP31KkBDpG1tTgV8nhpgRL4YtIdHdlxAaAihcEALw_wcB

We've used a number of great sikaflex products, in specific applications. Sikaflex makes amazing products, and a huge array of them, for specific applications. 291 is polyurethane, not polyether, so not recommended for bonding to plexi or polycarbonate. I don't know what the Oliver sign is, but guessing plexi, so I  went with a polyether for caulk, (after butyl, for perimeter) compatible with plexi. Just in case. 

https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/global-industry-content-pages-to-keep/commercial-vessels/elastic-sealing-bonding/watertight-sealingbonding/sikaflex-291.html?_gl=1*1b55yh0*_ga*MTM3NzMwMDk0OC4xNzE2Njc4NzAy*_ga_K04G1QB2XC*MTcxNjY3ODcwMi4xLjAuMTcxNjY3ODgyMi4wLjAuMA..

The loctite marine has been a good "all arounder" for us, for the last few years. None of these adhesive sealants have a long shelf life, so keeping one around for most projects ( fiberglass to wood, metal, plexi, etc.)  has worked for us. 

We'll see how it plays out. Works in progress, avoiding silicon. 🙂

Edited May 26 by SeaDawg

[ScubaRx]

The factory has apparently done a 180 on silicone. That is the product they are using and recommending for all sealing purposes.  

[John Dorrer]

On 5/23/2024 at 7:30 PM, Mike and Carol said:

I know there are several threads on leaks from the Oliver light on the back of the trailer.  I’ve read them all.

I have a small drip from the Oliver insert that runs down to the window.  We noticed water dripping from the middle of the bottom of the window on this May trip.  Our first leak!  All the marker lights are good.

I would rather not remove the Oliver insert.   Just caulk around it.  I don’t want to use silicone, I usually make a mess with it.  From what I’ve read some owners used 3M 4200 or 3M 4000.  3M 5200 is not recommended.  Any thoughts on what to use?  Mike

First, I would start with Oliver and find out what they used. You don't want to have a comparability issue. Switching from silicone to say a Polyurethane will result in adhesion problems. Silicone sealants will leave a residue that you really can't remove.

 

[Mike and Carol]

15 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

The factory has apparently done a 180 on silicone. That is the product they are using and recommending for all sealing purposes.  

I want to avoid silicone if possible.

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, John Dorrer said:

Switching from silicone to say a Polyurethane will result in adhesion problems. Silicone sealants will leave a residue that you really can't remove.

Agreed, but personally we are going to remove as much silicone on our Oliver as possible. IMHO, silicone caulk should only be applied to household bathtubs and showers. If I was to order a new Oliver, my first custom request would be DO NOT CAULK anything. I'll put some where needed myself and not silicone. What a mess.

Considering our climate and perhaps an annual trip to points humid, I'll just go without. I see y'all had quite a rain-day at the Rally. For us that would be 1-2 days a year. And why do people caulk on top of old caulk. That's just lazy! I'm looking for a silicone remover, that's a gel or something that can sit overnight on the vertical seams. Hit it with my pressure washer the next day.

I pressure-washed the Oliver when we got home last time. Blasting every seam and every angle against the windows. As a precaution, Chris was inside with a towel when I hit the windows. Keep in mind the pressure in my high-end tool is intense (near 3000 PSI), 100x a hard rainstorm. We only had a little water when I hit the window glass constantly very hard at all angles. I was glad to see all window weep holes, expelled a bit of dirt at first and then blew clean water. BTW, this is much easier that removing that surround for detailed cleaning. I replaced the rubber last year and I can tell everything is clean again, in working order.

Anybody know why OTT caulks the fender flares? OMG, if water was to leak there it will get your tires wet!?! 🤣 How crazy is that? What is the thinking here? Why is our wet bath caulked everywhere? Is it not a formed fiberglass inner hull? Or is there truly a seam between the vanity and the walls? Or is it people think it looks better?

Edited May 26 by jd1923
Added pic

[DavePhelps]

19 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Dave, bed-it is advertised as a sealant, not adhesive. I've never used it, so can't comment, but we've always used mechanical fastening with butyl.  Their website seems to indicate need for mechanical fasteners. It's not strictly butyl, bit a proprietary synthetic. I'm going to look into it further.

Butyl tapes do indeed have strong adhesive qualities, and Bed-it is no exception. Of course, their sealant properties are their strength and the main reason for their use, but they also create a tenacious bond to whatever they stick to.

https://www.generalsealants.com/butyl-tape-the-ultimate-guide/

Now if it is a structural application we're talking about, mechanical fastening would also be needed. But for the Oliver lense, I don't see that as necessary, and possibly a situation is being created where more pathways for water intrusion are being created by adding fasteners. My lense stuck tight to the butyl tape, then it was edge sealed, and several years later, being stored in the open outside in the PNW, not a leak. Everyone will have their system.

I am intrigued by the Polyethers though. Unfortunately the tube of PL Marine I bought to try out was just a PITA to tool off  (what the heck do you use???), and I threw it out and went back to my tried and true Sika 291. Maybe I had a bad tube. I may try the 3M version next as I like that Polyethers are compatible with more materials than polyurethane. I have had, however, no adverse reactions with the 291 on the Oliver lense, or the other plastic components on the trailer. If I was bedding these components, I would not use 291, but for edge sealing, so far so good. I do think though that the Polyether will be a more versatile and useful sealant going forward.

Bummer about Oliver moving exclusively to silicone. They're not doing anyone any favors by going that route. Don't know what kind it is so waiting to hear more about it.

Regarding silicone contamination of the gelcoat and future resealing issues. I have had good results wetsanding the afflicted area out with 1200 grit sandpaper and the appropriate solvent. When spritzing the area with water no longer beads up, the silicone oils have been removed. It's a pain but necessary if you want good adhesion, even if you plan to reseal with silicone...but don't do that!!  Cheers.

Dave

[SeaDawg]

@DavePhelps, you'd probably be interested in this article by Practical Sailor. Your fave, sika 291, and mine, loctite marine pl fast cure, tied for first place in extensive testing. 😃 

https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/marine-sealant-adhesion-tests

Practical Sailor is my go-to source for all things fiberglass. Back in the day, when it was print only, we kept issues in binders, with an index. (Far before Google days....)

When we replaced our Oliver sign/third tail light, our sign was crazed, and broke when we tried to remove it to rebed. I think Oliver used epoxy tabs, and 4200, old school.

Loctite is very thick, but I think you may have had an old tube. I always look at the Julian manufacturers date. It's only good for a year. Six months  (maybe) in the garage fridge, sealed.

 

Edited May 26 by SeaDawg

[SeaDawg]

If by Scubarx post it means that Oliver has gone to silicone caulk everywhere, I'm not happy. I hate that stuff, except where in contact with lexan or polycarbonate, imo.  Too difficult to remove, and even silicone won't stick to old silicone residue.

Edited May 26 by SeaDawg

[SeaDawg]

2 hours ago, DavePhelps said:

Now if it is a structural application we're talking about, mechanical fastening would also be needed. But for the Oliver lense, I don't see that as necessary, and possibly a situation is being created where more pathways for water intrusion are being created by adding fasteners. My lense stuck tight to the butyl tape, then it was edge sealed, and several years later, being stored in the open outside in the PNW, not a leak. Everyone will have their system.

Won't change my mind. It has adhesion, but not a true adhesive. Imo. it's self healing when adding mechanical fasteners. 

I wouldn't drive with vents open in the trailer,if thie light is only held by synthetic butyl,  as we sometimes do. Glad it has worked for you, and as I said, not familiar with the brand.

Imo, synthetic butyl is the very best bedding compound for windows and lights. It stays flexible for a long time (maybe forever.?) We'll see. 

 

 

[John Dorrer]

21 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Agreed, but personally we are going to remove as much silicone on our Oliver as possible. IMHO, silicone caulk should only be applied to household bathtubs and showers. If I was to order a new Oliver, my first custom request would be DO NOT CAULK anything. I'll put some where needed myself and not silicone. What a mess.

Considering our climate and perhaps an annual trip to points humid, I'll just go without. I see y'all had quite a rain-day at the Rally. For us that would be 1-2 days a year. And why do people caulk on top of old caulk. That's just lazy! I'm looking for a silicone remover, that's a gel or something that can sit overnight on the vertical seams. Hit it with my pressure washer the next day.

I pressure-washed the Oliver when we got home last time. Blasting every seam and every angle against the windows. As a precaution, Chris was inside with a towel when I hit the windows. Keep in mind the pressure in my high-end tool is intense (near 3000 PSI), 100x a hard rainstorm. We only had a little water when I hit the window glass constantly very hard at all angles. I was glad to see all window weep holes, expelled a bit of dirt at first and then blew clean water. BTW, this is much easier that removing that surround for detailed cleaning. I replaced the rubber last year and I can tell everything is clean again, in working order.

Anybody know why OTT caulks the fender flares? OMG, if water was to leak there it will get your tires wet!?! 🤣 How crazy is that? What is the thinking here? Why is our wet bath caulked everywhere? Is it not a formed fiberglass inner hull? Or is there truly a seam between the vanity and the walls? Or is it people think it looks better?

I spent 40 years in the Building Envelope business, designing, large exterior sealant jobs along with the design of large commercial roofing projects. We also did forensic investigations.

 

My sealant of choice was high performance Polyurethane Sealants, single and and multiple component. 

Silicone was used for glazing by other trades.

The silicone used by Oliver is, I believe, marine grade for use on fiberglass. I have seen zero issues on the sealant work on Oliver's. What I see is a lack of maintenance to re-caulk every 4-5 years, based on how the Oliver is stored and exposed to UV. . 

 

Silicone leaves a residue that can't be removed, especially on masonry surfaces. It will be very hard to remove all sealant from the Oliver, without leaving caulk and residue. Once caulked with silicone, you will need to re-caulk with silicone. If you switch to Polyurethane, there will be adhesion failure.

 

There are several comments you made that are not accurate.

Edited May 27 by John Dorrer
Added info

[jd1923]

I'm sorry! Though in rereading my post, I don't see that I made any technical comments, so not understanding how my personal likes/dislikes can be measured in terms of accuracy. Public forums are all about "IMHO."

I just don't like the over-use of caulks of any kind. My hobbies have always been around restoration since the late 70s. Experiences with so many old cars, used trailers/RVs and old homes, etc. I do all my own M&R work, on auto, home and RV though will contract paint and detailing work, to which I have no strengths and experience. What I know, is I've spent/wasted way too much time removing sloppy caulk and paint. 

I have seen more bad jobs than good, and our Oliver windows (pic above) is just one example in a lifetime in the witness of shoddy work. Most DIYers admit they do not have the artistic hand to apply caulk nicely. Me too and many professional tradesmen are just careless.

It may be inaccurate in the view of some, but I don't see purpose in caulking an RV window. If ours were to ever leak, to do it right (and caulking IMHO is not doing it right, merely applying a band-aid), I would remove the window and rigorously clean out all old caulk and butyl, and as a final step wiping rubbing alcohol on the contact surfaces for good adhesion. I would reapply butyl, just enough so that when fastening the screws evenly, it would squeeze out slightly around the perimeter. Scrape off the excess with a plastic blade and I'm done! Butyl seals fully, will last longer than our lifetimes (so it should never leak to begin with). I did this job on our Bigfoot, not that it was leaking rainwater to the interior, but to replace glass panels where the double-pane seals had failed within. Did not caulk when finished. It looked great would not leak a drop when pressure-washed from all angles! It's OK if you have a differing opinion.

So I ask, but do not expect answers... Why are home windows caulked, when they sit nicely tucked under a 30" eave? And why does OTT caulk the wheel flares, when it does not matter if water passes through this seam to the wheel-wells? And why is the wet bath caulked where there is seamless fiberglass construction? The examples I see in our world are endless.

I've asked the following Q, twice on this forum before and will give it just one more try before going it alone... What product can I source to remove silicone caulk, that can be applied to vertical surfaces?

Perhaps it cannot be this easy, but if there was such a product that would cling overnight and penetrate or loosen the caulk it would be so helpful. I'd like to make our cleaning project a couple days verses a few weeks of hard labor. I also am concerned or damaging the fiberglass in applying the wrong product and I'm not concerned if there is silicone still in the pores of the fiberglass, as I will not re-apply caulk. I just want to get the dang stuff off! 

I ask @John Dorrer with your industry experience. I ask members who have commented here, like @ScubaRx, @SeaDawg and @DavePhelps with considerable RV and boating experiences and other OTT Forum members. I read so many suggestions on caulks and sealants. Don't y'all use something to remove the old, before applying the new? I thank you for your time and consideration.

[John Dorrer]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I'm sorry! Though in rereading my post, I don't see that I made any technical comments, so not understanding how my personal likes/dislikes can be measured in terms of accuracy. Public forums are all about "IMHO."

I just don't like the over-use of caulks of any kind. My hobbies have always been around restoration since the late 70s. Experiences with so many old cars, used trailers/RVs and old homes, etc. I do all my own M&R work, on auto, home and RV though will contract paint and detailing work, to which I have no strengths and experience. What I know, is I've spent/wasted way too much time removing sloppy caulk and paint. 

I have seen more bad jobs than good, and our Oliver windows (pic above) is just one example in a lifetime in the witness of shoddy work. Most DIYers admit they do not have the artistic hand to apply caulk nicely. Me too and many professional tradesmen are just careless.

It may be inaccurate in the view of some, but I don't see purpose in caulking an RV window. If ours were to ever leak, to do it right (and caulking IMHO is not doing it right, merely applying a band-aid), I would remove the window and rigorously clean out all old caulk and butyl, and as a final step wiping rubbing alcohol on the contact surfaces for good adhesion. I would reapply butyl, just enough so that when fastening the screws evenly, it would squeeze out slightly around the perimeter. Scrape off the excess with a plastic blade and I'm done! Butyl seals fully, will last longer than our lifetimes (so it should never leak to begin with). I did this job on our Bigfoot, not that it was leaking rainwater to the interior, but to replace glass panels where the double-pane seals had failed within. Did not caulk when finished. It looked great would not leak a drop when pressure-washed from all angles! It's OK if you have a differing opinion.

So I ask, but do not expect answers... Why are home windows caulked, when they sit nicely tucked under a 30" eave? And why does OTT caulk the wheel flares, when it does not matter if water passes through this seam to the wheel-wells? And why is the wet bath caulked where there is seamless fiberglass construction? The examples I see in our world are endless.

I've asked the following Q, twice on this forum before and will give it just one more try before going it alone... What product can I source to remove silicone caulk, that can be applied to vertical surfaces?

Perhaps it cannot be this easy, but if there was such a product that would cling overnight and penetrate or loosen the caulk it would be so helpful. I'd like to make our cleaning project a couple days verses a few weeks of hard labor. I also am concerned or damaging the fiberglass in applying the wrong product and I'm not concerned if there is silicone still in the pores of the fiberglass, as I will not re-apply caulk. I just want to get the dang stuff off! 

I ask @John Dorrer with your industry experience. I ask members who have commented here, like @ScubaRx, @SeaDawg and @DavePhelps with considerable RV and boating experiences and other OTT Forum members. I read so many suggestions on caulks and sealants. Don't y'all use something to remove the old, before applying the new? I thank you for your time and consideration.

First, my impression after reading your earlier comment was you intended on completely removing all sealant inside and outside. I read your comment twice and came to the same conclusion. Sealant provides a watertight seal to all joints and an estetically pleasing finish. Sealant at the windows is weatherproofing. Without sealing the windows you will have leaks everywhere. You asked why there was so much sealant in the bathroom. Our 2022 has a special plastic wall at the bathroom and closet. All panel joints are caulked to keep water in the bathroom and from leaking into the trailer. You asked why the wheel fenders are caulked. I actually don't understand your thoughts process. The sealant at the fenders is for aestetic purposes, and to keep spray confined. 

 

Sealant is a necessary component to every building, boat, trailer. 

 

As I have mentioned, my preferred sealant is polyurethane. Oliver doesn't do custom work. I get what they used, not what I want. It is what it is.

 

For me a soft bristle tooth brush and soap cleans my sealant joints.

 

I can promise you this, if you removed all the sealant and put your trailer up for sale, any smart person will walk so fast, and your chances of selling very remote. I would be worried about mold, because it will happen. I would worry about electronic components. Oliver would never sell or sign off on unfinished trailer. Never, ever would happen.

 

This is my position on your posts. 

Edited May 27 by John Dorrer
Added info

[DavePhelps]

Talk of sealants always create quite a stir. Just go on any boating forum, look up sealants and stand back!!

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I've asked the following Q, twice on this forum before and will give it just one more try before going it alone... What product can I source to remove silicone caulk, that can be applied to vertical surfaces?

What I have used with success is this product:

https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol

Yes it's expensive, but I have been successful removing embedded silicone oils from the gelcoat with some wet sanding and a final polish. You will not sand through the gelcoat with 1200 grit paper! I would still do a reseal around the perimeter of your windows/fixtures as this is your first line of defense from water intrusion. It can be done well and look great. It just takes time, a good tape masking job, and an understanding of the ins and outs of the sealant you want to use. You don't know how good the butyl tape (if that is what was used) job was done under the windows during installation. So I would not take chances there. The pic of your window makes me cringe. Whoever did that really had no care for aesthetics or function. Use the Debond (there are also other products, but I haven't used them), a plastic razor to get the bulk of the old sealant off. Then go to the wet sand stage. Try to keep the Debond contained to the work area. Dribble a little on and start scraping.

I just "resealed" my fender flares! Strictly an aesthetic decision! I think it looks much better. But certainly not necessary.

Dave

[Patriot]

51 minutes ago, DavePhelps said:

Talk of sealants always create quite a stir. Just go on any boating forum, look up sealants and stand back!!

What I have used with success is this product:

https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol

Yes it's expensive, but I have been successful removing embedded silicone oils from the gelcoat with some wet sanding and a final polish. You will not sand through the gelcoat with 1200 grit paper! I would still do a reseal around the perimeter of your windows/fixtures as this is your first line of defense from water intrusion. It can be done well and look great. It just takes time, a good tape masking job, and an understanding of the ins and outs of the sealant you want to use. You don't know how good the butyl tape (if that is what was used) job was done under the windows during installation. So I would not take chances there. The pic of your window makes me cringe. Whoever did that really had no care for aesthetics or function. Use the Debond (there are also other products, but I haven't used them), a plastic razor to get the bulk of the old sealant off. Then go to the wet sand stage. Try to keep the Debond contained to the work area. Dribble a little on and start scraping.

I just "resealed" my fender flares! Strictly an aesthetic decision! I think it looks much better. But certainly not necessary.

Dave

Dave,

Thanks, this may really come in handy. 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, DavePhelps said:

Talk of sealants always create quite a stir. Just go on any boating forum, look up sealants and stand back!!

What I have used with success is this product:

https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol

Dave

Ya think! So this will my last sealant related comment here.

Dave, thank you so much and I trust it on your recommendation. The label has all the right words. Re cost NP. What is it? About 30% of a shop-hour today for those who pay for repair work.

Should saves us hours in labor. Do you think one can is enough to work the exterior of the Oliver, 4 windows, wheel flares, around the furnace, etc? Maybe I should get two anyway. Thanks again! 😂

[jd1923]

On 5/27/2024 at 2:58 PM, DavePhelps said:

What I have used with success is this product:

https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol

...I would still do a reseal around the perimeter of your windows/fixtures as this is your first line of defense from water intrusion. It can be done well and look great. It just takes time, a good tape masking job, and an understanding of the ins and outs of the sealant you want to use...

I just "resealed" my fender flares! Strictly an aesthetic decision! I think it looks much better. But certainly not necessary. Dave

Just purchased two cans of the Debond and thanks again. Not bad with no tax added and only $5 S&H. Chris is the painter in our family, keen on detail. She has volunteered for this duty and was happy to hear of this product. Will report back on how it worked.

We're just doing the prep work, so that when I take it to a professional fiberglass detailer, I won't have to pay many shop-hours for prepping. I don't want them working around old caulk but instead getting right to the edges. I will also remove as much exterior trim as possible, like taillight bezels and doghouse handles, just to name a few, before dropping it off for detail work.

I expect the professional to use the 1200 grit sandpaper and do whatever is necessary to remove oxidation, and if I was to recaulk what's necessary, not for "asthetics" it would be as you suggested, by someone who knows "the ins and outs of the sealant." After cleaning up the cr@p, I'll spend my time on installing a new AC unit and other mechanical tasks per my core competencies.

BTW, the only mold/mildew on our Oliver, inside or out, is on the caulk outer surfaces! 🤣

[SeaDawg]

@jd1923, removal depends on the sealant.

Heat can often help, and a plastic blade, for the big strips. With the suspected 4200 on the oliver light , we used a Heat gun on low, at some distance to not deform the fiberglass, passing it thru the lite. (I was outside, my husband inside.)

Isopropyl alcohol works on some. Mineral spirits on some (but needs to be cleaned up later.) Googone caulk remover I've heard works on most caulk except silicone. 3m makes a remover for virtually every type of caulk manufactured. If you know the type of caulk you're dealing with , you can call the manufacturer for best practices.

Heat first, plastic blade, and chemical removal last is our usual practice.

Sorry I didn't respond earlier.

We've been a bit busy with storm cleanup.

 

[jd1923]

Whoa @SeaDawg! Sherry, it's a good thing that appears a light landing on the roof. Looks like the leaves and density of small branches cushioned the fall. We had an oak tree branch downed by lighting years ago. It took down a gutter, some roof damage and the rear of a Dodge Intrepid certainly needed a body shop. Hope it's just clean-up for you!

If I was in the neighborhood, I'd be over right away with my Stihl 026 and pole-pruner to help! 🙂

[SeaDawg]

Sorry for the threaddrift, Mike. 

We're all good now. We have a friend in the tree service. Came out to survey two hours after the tree fell Monday morning.  By Tuesday noon, his skilled crew got everything off the roof, with no other collateral damage but the original bashing of the ornamental cupola, and a few minor original dents and dings. Took down five other "suspects" for us, near rhe barn.

Anyone in the Asheville area, I  can highly recommend B nB Tree service. Owner Craig is highly responsive. TJ, lead guy on our last two jobs, is highly skilled, very safety concious, and super careful.  A less careful crew could have caused  major consequential damage. 

@jd1923, you can bring that chain saw in the fall, if you like. We'll run races with our big Husqvarna ranchers, when the pile of logs has had time to dry a bit.  Stihl 026 is an awesome piece of equipment!

This job required a bucket truck, lift, and skilled service. The metal roof was slick as snot, by the way.

Edited May 29 by SeaDawg

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:

Sorry for the threaddrift, Mike. 

Not a problem, Sherry.  Just glad to hear you got that tree taken care of and the damage was limited!  Mike

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

@jd1923, you can bring that chain saw in the fall, if you like. We'll run races with our big Husqvarna ranchers, when the pile of logs has had time to dry a bit.  Stihl 026 is an awesome piece of equipment!

Thanks @SeaDawg, the 026 just hit a 30-year anniversary. New carb and fuel lines, 20" bar and a tune-up 2 years ago and she screams like new.

You probably know by now, calling "the guy" is a last resort for me. We had a mature American Elm at a home we had in N VA. A friend when leaving said, "Do you know your tree is splitting?" It was the kind of tree that had 2 main trunks and it was splitting right down the middle. It looked like the one side was going to break and fall. Of course, that was the side that would land on the dining room of our 2-story red brick colonial.

Oh man, a tree guy would cost a small fortune on this one! I did an engineering study of height, angle, mass, and thought and looked, and thought and looked... About 10 days later, I got up the courage.

We put two 24' extension ladders to get up as high as possible. Used double HD tow cables and tied the two trunks together at that height. I cut a wedge aiming down the driveway and away from the house. Then held my breath and cut the backside slowly. The trunk leaned and the cables drew tight. Then it pivoted at the cut and landed 180 from the house. Chris has the whole episode on video somewhere. It broke a couple landscape timbers is all. Got out the 100' tape and that trunk was 80+ ft! We spent the next 2 weekends cutting it up for firewood. I did have a 30HP Kubota then with a front-end loader to help!

Next time the buddy came over he asked, are you going to cut down the other side. I said, I got nothing but acreage that direction. It can fall when it needs to.