Rear Stabilizer Jacks

[HDRider]

Does anyone know which manual has info about the rear stabilizer jacks?  I can find the front hitch jack but not the two rear jacks.

 

Thanks

[Geronimo John]

Here are the ones I have.

Hope it helps.

 

BOM - Baker VIP 3000 Power Jack Parts List.docxOM - Barker VIP Power Jack 3000 Manual.pdf

 

Edited Friday at 02:17 PM by Geronimo John

[ScubaRx]

The two rear jacks are exactly the same mechanically as the front one, they just don't have a control head. Barker makes them specially for Oliver so you won't find them listed online.

[HDRider]

Quoting - VIP 3,000 Power Jack is designed to lift up to 3,000 pounds a full 18".

 

Oliver calls these "stabilizing jacks".

 

How much are you comfortable using them to level the trailer?  How high are you comfortable raising one side?  An inch?  Two inches?

[HDRider]

2 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

The two rear jacks are exactly the same mechanically as the front one, they just don't have a control head.

I guess that is one more thing one learns about our Oliver through "ancestral  knowledge". 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, HDRider said:

How much are you comfortable using them to level the trailer?  How high are you comfortable raising one side?  An inch?  Two inches?

You can use them temporarily, for example lifting high enough to mount the spare tire if you get a flat.

As far as when camping, you want to have 90% of the weight on the tires and front jack. Use the rear jacks just for finish leveling. I use these to bring the trailer to the right height, left or right, and then apply the jacks for enough pressure so that the trailer does not wobble in the wind or when climbing the steps.

Amazon.com: ANDERSEN HITCHES | 3604-2 2-Pack Camper Leveler System Must Have RV | Camping Travel Easy Storage Jack Stabilizer Block | Levelers Blocks for Campers and Fifth Wheels : Automotive

[DunnYet]

Would not recommend using them like this. Plus - I have no idea how the occupants ever reached that first step.

[HDRider]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

You can use them temporarily, for example lifting high enough to mount the spare tire if you get a flat.

As far as when camping, you want to have 90% of the weight on the tires and front jack. Use the rear jacks just for finish leveling. I use these to bring the trailer to the right height, left or right, and then apply the jacks for enough pressure so that the trailer does not wobble in the wind or when climbing the steps.

Amazon.com: ANDERSEN HITCHES | 3604-2 2-Pack Camper Leveler System Must Have RV | Camping Travel Easy Storage Jack Stabilizer Block | Levelers Blocks for Campers and Fifth Wheels : Automotive

I have the Anderson leveling blocks.

 

I am simply wondering why Oliver did not equip the trailer with something more robust.

 

I have to think someone here on the forum has beefed up the stock system. 

[mountainoliver]

In 2017 when we picked up hull 208, the factory had not balanced the tires. The guys lifted the camper in the shop with all four tires off the ground, removed all four, and balanced them. The three jacks readily lifted the camper. Since then I have had one side or the other off of the ground on several occasions in order to level the camper. That said, I have the Andersen leveling wedges and use them nearly every time we camp instead of using the jacks for anything more than just stabilizing. Early on, there was one instance that I know of where a rear bracket was not completely welded and broke when the camper was being stabilized. Other than that one incident I have never heard of any issues with the ability of the jacks not being able to lift the LEII. Understandably, with an abundance of caution/safety, Oliver has backed off on suggesting that the jacks can be used to completely lift the camper. We must remember that the lightest our campers will ever be is just before we take possession of them. After that, they begin to gain weight. The phrase “just because you can, doesn’t mean you should” comes into play here. 

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, HDRider said:

I am simply wondering why Oliver did not equip the trailer with something more robust.

Not much better than what we have! Most owners of travel trailers are getting out with their cordless impact guns screwing down manual jacks. The VP-3000 jacks work great.

I start my LevelMatePRO App when we arrive at a site, choose the most level spot. Get out and place the Andersen leveling chocks. Pull up or back to level and adjust the 3 jacks. We get level to 0.00” in 2-3 minutes every time since adding the LevelMate.

Had a Bigfoot class-c, fancy $4K hydraulic leveling system. What a PITA! So many times, we got close, but not good. Had to drop all the jacks and start over.

I did a complete rebuild on the front jack, our hull being 8 years old. I have a thread here about that. Not doing the rears, as my mechanic’s ear says, they sound great. The rears are out of weather and are used less.

Don’t do the maintenance as in the OTT video, check my post instead, as it’s just “lipstick on a pig!”

[Ronbrink]

18 hours ago, HDRider said:

How much are you comfortable using them to level the trailer?  How high are you comfortable raising one side?  An inch?  Two inches?

Many have commented over the years on the use of the stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer enough to change a flat tire, well exceeding one or two inches of lift. However, from a safety aspect the trailer should always be connected to a TV when doing so and never ever have any part of your person under the trailer during the process. That said, I feel comfortable using the jacks to further tweak the level side-to-side, but only after utilizing some kind of leveling blocks or wedges first, thus minimizing the degree of actual jack lift. Once the leveling task is achieved, wheel chocks/wedges are placed to lessen any movement when disconnecting the TV.

[Ronbrink]

13 hours ago, HDRider said:

I am simply wondering why Oliver did not equip the trailer with something more robust.

 

The stabilizer jacks well exceed their intended use; but do require special attention as to not over extend/retract, which can cause a fuse to blow and/or gear head damage. Additionally, one should routinely check the jack mounts for loose hardware and ensure they are examined as part of the departure checklist.