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Posted

I think I have the unit installed and wired correctly...the TV B+ through a resettable fuse to an Andersen connector at the rear of the truck.  TV B- from truck frame to same andersen connector.  Then  the other half of the Andersen connector + to + "input" on the Victron charger and - to the - "input".  Then on the "output" side of the Victron charger  + goes through  another fuse to the trailer B+ bus and then the - "output'" side of the Victron to the trailer B- bus.  So "input" from my truck and "output" to the Oliver...right?  The Andersen connector is disconnected at this stage.  The Victron charger does not indicate power via the blue bluetooth light on the charger.  Does the TV need to be hooked up to power the charger or should the trailer batteries be able to power the charger?  The remote on/off link ( a small plug ) is not installed at the moment as instructions say to leave out until configuration is compete.  Not at all electrical savy here but can follow directions :)  Any help is much appreciated!

John

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Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

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Posted
2 hours ago, johnwen said:

Does the TV need to be hooked up to power the charger or should the trailer batteries be able to power the charger?

Good progress John!

It should have power from the Oliver side batteries to be in standby, Bluetooth on, ready to take charge. The VictronConnect app should see the charger showing zero amps when disconnected. At least this is the way the Victron MPPT solar charger works when solar panels are disconnec

Test for 12V at the output side of the charger.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
14 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

Good progress John!

It should have power from the Oliver side batteries to be in standby, Bluetooth on, ready to take charge. The VictronConnect app should see the charger showing zero amps when disconnected. At least this is the way the Victron MPPT solar charger works when solar panels are disconnec

Test for 12V at the output side of the charger.

Thanks, JD,

I hooked the Andersens together and voila, the charger powered up and became discoverable.  It detected zero charging as the truck was not running and after startup the charging parameters showed readings and then I put in the remote on/off link and all seems to be operational :)  It was defaulted to lifepo4 batteries...yay!

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Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, johnwen said:

I hooked the Andersens together and voila...

Excellent! Looks like it works different than their MPPT chargers. Good to know. Wondering, does it go blank again when you disconnect? And let us know re its performance after your next leg of travel. 😂

Edited by jd1923
  • Like 2

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
16 hours ago, johnwen said:

the TV B+ through a resettable fuse to an Andersen connector at the rear of the truck.  TV B- from truck frame to same andersen connector. 

Initially I installed a ‘resettable’ fuse, but found at times it to trip due to excessive under hood temps during the hotter months of the year. I now use an ANL setup, specifically an ANL Blue Sea Systems 5005 fuse block with insulating cover and 60A fuse. Problem solved! Also, note the solenoid mounted next to the battery. I did not want current powering the DC-DC charger when the Anderson was connected and the TV motor was not running.

IMG_7608.thumb.jpeg.dec17710f54095827f96061815e8dd8a.jpeg

I also opted to run a negative cable from the bumper-mounted Anderson to the TV B-, rather than a ground-to-frame. Yes, an added cost and measure, but to me the best alternative to ensure optimum performance of my DC-DC setup. I can also utilize this Anderson to power my VIAIR portable air compressor and Dometic dual zone refrigerator/freezer, as necessary. 

17 hours ago, johnwen said:

Does the TV need to be hooked up to power the charger or should the trailer batteries be able to power the charger? 

The dedicated DC-DC trailer cable’s Anderson must be connected to the corresponding connector on the TV to power the charger. 
 

 

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Ron and Brooxie | Clear Lake (Houston), Texas

2020 OLEll, Twin, 579:

No installed solar, Renogy 40A DC-DC charger, 460Ah LFP battery bank/Victron SmartShunt, auxiliary Cerbo-S GX/Victron 30A Blue Smart IP22 Charger combo, Hughes Autoformer, dual Lagun tables, extended dinette table and pantry landing, tongue-mounted hoist, Beech Lane refrigerator Ventilation/Evaporate Coil fans, Dreiha Atmos 4.4 A/C upgrade. 

2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Work Van:

Explorer Limited SE, Low-Top 7 Passenger van conversion, 6.0L V8 Vortec, 6-Speed Automatic, RWD; Air-Lift LoadLifter air suspension/WirelessAir compressor; Buyers Products cargo containment boxes/DC Cargo securement system; rear bumper DC-DC power cable outlet; 100Ah 12V portable power station/Dometic CFX 75L Dual Zone Refrigerator and Freezer;  pending transfer of Mechman 320A high output alternator from former TV. 

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

I did not want current powering the DC-DC charger when the Anderson was connected and the TV motor was not running.

Ron, your installation is exceptional!

I may be wrong (like my previous assumption) but I think the DC-DC charger would sense the alternator is not running, not pull current from the starter battery by sensing voltage (not near 14V, instead under 13V). If not, why have a DC-DC charger vs.  a hardwire connection of starter to house batteries? Yours is safer (redundancy being a good design principle).

I was first thinking ANL. John showed me the resettable fuses last week. I had not seen these used in automotive applications before. They did not look to be substantial in design. I went with Marine MRBF instead since they should make for a simpler installation than mounting an ANL holder.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR4X7ZP5?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

I still feel, yet there is considerable contrary opinion here, that the frame ground is as good as running another 20 ft of 4 AWG copper. I will also wire short redundant 4 AWG leads from the battery + directly to the alternator and from the battery - to the front of the frame. We'll see how many amps I get in and out of the Orion XS 50A DC-DC charger.

Hoping to get mine installed next weekend! 😂
Of course, I will author a post on my installation with pictures.

Edited by jd1923
  • Like 3

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
5 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Hoping to get mine installed next weekend! 😂
Of course, I will author a post on my installation with pictures.

Looking forward to your forthcoming post on the install! A couple of things that may or may not be specific to my Renogy DC-DC charger regarding installation: 1) Because I choose to mount the charger remotely inside the Oliver and not in the TV, I decided it best to run a negative cable from the starter battery, rather than the typical ground-to-chassis as done in some instances when separate battery banks share a mutual grounding, like a motorhome for instance. I know when a trailer is hitched to a vehicle grounding occurs, but I find no comfort that it constitutes the adequate grounding necessary to fully safeguard the system; 2) the Renogy manual specifies use of ANL fuses with their systems; and 3) since the charger is in the trailer, use of the D+ ignition wire was not utilized and thus, the solenoid install serves the same purpose. I hope this provides a better understanding of actions taken in my install. I have read where others, for reasons unknown, are not getting the rated amperage from their units. I am pleased to report that is not the case in my situation!

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Ron and Brooxie | Clear Lake (Houston), Texas

2020 OLEll, Twin, 579:

No installed solar, Renogy 40A DC-DC charger, 460Ah LFP battery bank/Victron SmartShunt, auxiliary Cerbo-S GX/Victron 30A Blue Smart IP22 Charger combo, Hughes Autoformer, dual Lagun tables, extended dinette table and pantry landing, tongue-mounted hoist, Beech Lane refrigerator Ventilation/Evaporate Coil fans, Dreiha Atmos 4.4 A/C upgrade. 

2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Work Van:

Explorer Limited SE, Low-Top 7 Passenger van conversion, 6.0L V8 Vortec, 6-Speed Automatic, RWD; Air-Lift LoadLifter air suspension/WirelessAir compressor; Buyers Products cargo containment boxes/DC Cargo securement system; rear bumper DC-DC power cable outlet; 100Ah 12V portable power station/Dometic CFX 75L Dual Zone Refrigerator and Freezer;  pending transfer of Mechman 320A high output alternator from former TV. 

Posted
33 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

I know when a trailer is hitched to a vehicle grounding occurs, but I find no comfort that it constitutes the adequate grounding necessary to fully safeguard the system; 2) the Renogy manual specifies use of ANL fuses with their systems; and 3) since the charger is in the trailer, use of the D+ ignition wire was not utilized and thus, the solenoid install serves the same purpose. I hope this provides a better understanding of actions taken in my install. I have read where others, for reasons unknown, are not getting the rated amperage from their units. I am pleased to report that is not the case in my situation!

I will not merely ground through the frame hitch, etc. I will have the B- from the charger in the Oliver to the SB175 Anderson connector at the hitch. On the TV side I will have a short cable bolted to the frame. Also, another short cable from the front end of the frame to the B- starter battery post. Most do not include this additional ground. 

Agreed, I too have noted installations here that do not achieve full charging amperage. Not sure why since many details of their installations were not provided. I believe those examples did run B+ and B- cables end-to-end. I see negligible resistance in a solid steel frame and perhaps less voltage drop than 4 awg copper over another 20 ft of distance. BTW, is voltage drop even an issue when the Orion XS 50A charger can accept input voltage from 9V min to 17V max? Not sure.

Given I get mine installed next weekend or soon thereafter, we're heading towards Tucson starting Monday 2/24. I'll make sure we leave at a lower SOC and will measure what the new system can produce! I'll ask Chris to take multiple VictronConnect app pictures (from charger and shunt screens) while I drive, so I can study them later. I should remember to turn off the solar charger during this test to isolate the DC-DC charger. I will start the test at the full 50A capacity of the charger (see if the 4 awg wiring gets hot, or other issues). On another day test after detuning the charger to 30A.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted

JD:
Please do the same amp tests on your completed install as we posted earlier.  Will be cool to compare yours, our and Art's numbers.

GJ

  • Like 1

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

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Posted

...coming in late on this thread.  It's very encouraging seeing that many owners have now installed (or will be installing) DC/DC chargers.  @jd1923 - especially interested in the performance of the 50A version!

I'm sure y'all know, there's a soft setting in the Victron app that toggles the TV engine off/on sensor.  The default is in the sensor "ON" position, as I recall.  This keeps the system from discharging the TV battery when the charger circuit is connected to the OTT with the TV engine not running.

I'll try to get some shots of the Victron app from the TV when fully connected and engine running.  I nominally read about 27Amps, FYI.

@johnwen - glad to see you're up and running, brother!  Best to Wendy!

Charge on, men!

Art, Diane, Magnus & Oscar (double-Aaarrf!)

  • 2022 TUNDRA
  • 2017 LE II; Hull #226 "Casablanca"
  • HAM call-sign:  W0ABX

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Posted
2 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

...coming in late on this thread.  It's very encouraging seeing that many owners have now installed (or will be installing) DC/DC chargers.  @jd1923 - especially interested in the performance of the 50A version!

I'm sure y'all know, there's a soft setting in the Victron app that toggles the TV engine off/on sensor.  The default is in the sensor "ON" position, as I recall.  This keeps the system from discharging the TV battery when the charger circuit is connected to the OTT with the TV engine not running.

I'll try to get some shots of the Victron app from the TV when fully connected and engine running.  I nominally read about 27Amps, FYI.

@johnwen - glad to see you're up and running, brother!  Best to Wendy!

Charge on, men!

Thanks for the info, Art...currently sitting just south of Flagstaff.  We delayed here for a day to let the snow pass through there.  Not many ways to get around Flagstaff.  Alcan still scheduled for Monday!!!!  :)

John

Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

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Posted
39 minutes ago, johnwen said:

Not many ways to get around Flagstaff.  Alcan still scheduled for Monday!!!!  🙂

We love Flag when there's no snow piled up....  MartAnn's is our fav spot for brunch/lunch, FYI.  Best to Lew and Mike when you see them.  I'm thinking @Mountainman198 Lance and Casablanca were a couple of Alcan's first OTT customers last year....

Stay safe, brother!  See y'all down the road...

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Art, Diane, Magnus & Oscar (double-Aaarrf!)

  • 2022 TUNDRA
  • 2017 LE II; Hull #226 "Casablanca"
  • HAM call-sign:  W0ABX

ALAZARCOIDLAMSMTNMOKTNTXUTWYsm.jpg

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, johnwen said:

Not many ways to get around Flagstaff.

We bypass Flagstaff all the time! When I work in Vegas heading home and there's snow up at 7K ft, I head south on US HWY 93 and near Bagdad AZ there is a county highway that heads towards Prescott.

Given you are south of Flag, take highway 260 out of the Verde Valley towards Payson. Then Hwy 87 to Winslow which is under 5K elevation and you can get back on I-40 there. We only drive thru Flagstaff if we're going there since there is always traffic, construction on I-40 and SNOW in the winter! This route is equal in time to I-17N and I-40E and a beautiful drive!

We're at 5400 ft and overnight had 1-2" of rani at 40F. It snowed and is still snowing there now at 7K ft. I can see the storm clouds from our deck! Hwy 87 shows rain on the road with snow on the peaks around the edge of the White Mountains.

Edited by jd1923
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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
4 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

 @jd1923 - especially interested in the performance of the 50A version!

I mentioned starting on this project this weekend. Instead, I got deep into fixing/replacing all our waste valves. We leave on a camp on 3/24 and I would like to have both done, but working halftime too. We can leave w/o the DC-DC charger but I must get the drain valves finished which today are ALL torn apart, parts coming between today and Monday. 🤣

  • Thanks 1

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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