Safety Chains

[Roger]

I was looking at my safety chains and noticed they appear to be seriously undersized for my camper.  The shackles holding the chains to the camper have a WLL of 1T. Since the trailer has a gross weight of 7,000 lbs. this seems to be seriously under-sized. The chain does not have a rating I can see but it also appears to be under-sized.  I am worried now that the safety chains will fail if they are called upon.  

Has anyone up-graded their safety chains or had any issue?

 

[rich.dev]

Ok just throwing something out there, with tires you don’t just look at load capacity of 1 tire for a VH, isn’t it the same with the chains, ie 2 chains/shackles = 2T load capacity? 
 

Also, the GVWR of 7000lbs is vertical load carried by the tires/suspension/axles of the trailer, the load capacity of the shackles is a horizontal/tucking load. 

Edited February 27 by rich.dev

[Roger]

After doing some more research I have learned that it is not the working load that matters for the safety chains but the breaking strength which I believe is usually 1/3 of the working load. I found a chart for RVIA that lists safety chain requirements by state.  Generally, it appears that when a state has a strength requirement it must be at least the GVWR of the trailer. The only data I could find from the Federal Government related to commercial applications. For commercial applications the rules state the combined breaking strength of the safety chains must equal the weight of the towed vehicle. 

Based on the above it sounds like my chains are ok since (assuming the shackles are the weakest link) have a combined breaking strength of 6T.  

[mountainoliver]

Yes, I upgraded mine about 6 years ago. The 2017’s came with 5/16 curly cables that were difficult to connect and connected to the tongue with 3/8 bolts and thin fender washers. This setup would have never held in a disconnected trailer situation. I used 3/8 grade 70 chains and equivalent hooks. The chain is attached to the trailer tongue with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts. I don’t think this arrangement will fail. Years ago I did some research into trailer safety chains for a monthly newsletter that I was doing for an antique farm equipment collectors club. Basically, you are legally responsible for your trailer including if it becomes disconnected from your tow vehicle and causes property damage and/or injury or death. Some folks say that if there is an accident that they would rather have the trailer break free and not be close to their tow vehicle. This is completely wrong. 

Edited February 28 by mountainoliver
Incorrect information

[MAX Burner]

16 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

I used 3/8 grade 7 chains and equivalent hooks.

Same here, we abandoned the Curley Wires on our 2017 and upgraded like you did a couple years ago...

[jd1923]

On 2/27/2025 at 3:01 PM, mountainoliver said:

The 2017’s came with 5/16 curly cables that were difficult to connect…

Yep, ours too and we still have them. I upgrade a lot of stuff, but since this is in the area of liability insurance, I figure OTT is responsible if I do not touch what was installed by the manufacturer. This should receive comment! 🤣

[Tony and Rhonda]

Reviving a moderately old thread. Our 2017 Ollie also has the curly safety cables and I agree with @jd1923 in that, changing to chains is not liability I want to take on. A bonus with the cables is I am able to secure the cables inside my Paclock coupler lock. Chains wouldn't fit.

I tow with the Andersen WDH. My question is should the cables be above or below the whale tail? I haven't found any info on this in the owner paperwork. Both kind of make sense to me. How do owners with WDH's and cables route the cables?

Thanks, Tony

 

[topgun2]

12 minutes ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

My question is should the cables be above or below the whale tail?

I've always placed my cables/chains below the whale tail.  

My reasoning is that since the cables/chains are there as a safety measure in the event that the trailer (in some manner) comes unattached from the tow vehicle, the cables/chains will be the "last resort" of attachment to that tow vehicle.  Then, assuming that you have crossed the cables/chains the tongue should rest on those cables/chains as the trailer slows - this is particularly so assuming that the emergency brakes are applied on the trailer due to that ty switch becoming activated.  Meanwhile, the whale tail would serve as a wide surface area that those cables/chains could "catch".  Obviously, this crossing of the safety cables/chains has the effect of holding the hitch of the trailer off the ground so that the trailer hitch does not "dig" into the road thus possibly "flipping" the trailer.

Bill 

[routlaw]

Until now I have never heard of nor seen curly cable safety chains. Had to look it up to see WTH this was about. Our Ollie #70 came with traditional linked chains but after implementing the Andersen hitch they were too short. Went to the local farm and ranch supply store to purchase a longer set which ended up being considerably heavier duty and also heavier to boot. A mixed blessing I guess. Really appreciate @topgun2 explanation on why one should cross their cables which makes total sense, but never bothered to investigate the reason. 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

I've always placed my cables/chains below the whale tail.

Agreed, it seems to fit this way.