Propane/CO alarm quick-disconnect?

[GlacierGirl]

Would it be possible to use some sort of quick-disconnect connector on the wiring for the propane/CO alarm? We must replace our alarm and, once replaced, I thought it would be wonderfully convenient to simply reach under the dinette seat, rather than under the street side bed, to quickly disconnect it in case of a false alarm.

Barb

[Geronimo John]

See John Davies switch DIY to accomplish this goal.

GJ

[GlacierGirl]

9 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

See John Davies switch DIY to accomplish this goal.

GJ

I haven’t been able to find that post…

[Rivernerd]

12 hours ago, GlacierGirl said:

Would it be possible to use some sort of quick-disconnect connector on the wiring for the propane/CO alarm? 

Our factory-installed RVSafe propane/CO alarm has a "Silence/Test" button, which enables us to shut down false alarms without a quick disconnect.  It looks like the one in the photo below.  It has gone off when my wife uses hair spray in the trailer!
 

 

Edited Saturday at 04:46 PM by Rivernerd

[jd1923]

12 hours ago, GlacierGirl said:

Would it be possible to use some sort of quick-disconnect connector on the wiring for the propane/CO alarm? We must replace our alarm and, once replaced, I thought it would be wonderfully convenient to simply reach under the dinette seat, rather than under the street side bed, to quickly disconnect it in case of a false alarm. Barb

Yours is wired under the bed? Ours is mounted to and wired under the rear dinette seat already. On the right side of the picture below you can faintly see the wiring and a large square cutout. Too bad OTT mounted a recessed model detector requiring this awful 3x3" square hole in the fiberglass! Prior owner replaced it with a surface mount model, same as @Rivernerd has pictured above. Ours is dated 2026 so very soon we have to replace ours.

It's simple to rewire most anything from under the beds to under the dinette given that the combined 12VDC and 120VAC power panel is under the dinette. I moved almost everything out from under the beds as you can read in this post.

Edited Saturday at 04:55 PM by jd1923

[GlacierGirl]

45 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

 It has gone off when my wife uses hair spray in the trailer!

@Rivernerd, that's a good reason for me to "let my hair down" while camping!

@jd1923, no, I'm sorry I didn't articulate well. Our alarm, like yours, is under the dinette seat. I thought everyone could read my mind 😏 when I mentioned "under the street-side bed". That was in reference to removing the fuse for false alarms. I was thinking that in the case of those middle-of-the-night false alarms - or anytime there's a false alarm - that it would be handy to be able to simply reach under the dinette seat and disconnect a connector. I'm not sure why you couldn't read my mind!😁

[GlacierGirl]

And @jd1923, thank you for your post for rewiring and moving things under the dinette seat. I will certainly work on that.

Barb

[ADKCamper]

Yes... I have used SAE "2-flat" rubberized connectors for 12v dc devices that I might want to disable/remove easily for service, access, replacement, etc.

 

 

Pay particular attention to the polarity as shown above... so that the "live" end connected to the trailer wiring harness has its positive "+" terminal covered in rubber (and the bare "-" terminal is exposed). I also use the small 2-pin SAE rubber covers to protect the trailer side of such connections when the 12v device has been unplugged. The rubber cover hangs on the wire right behind the trailer-side connector, ready to cover up the live female side of the connector.

Also pay attention to the current rating of these connectors. This particular one is a Hopkins 47965, has 16 gauge wire nominally rated at 10A. Many such 2-flat SAE connectors are also rated at 10A max. Looking online a bit harder you can find 2-flat SAE connectors with 12 gauge wire if needed,

Just as when you pull the fuse to silence a safety device such as this, be careful to flag the device as disconnected (e.g. hang some surveyer's "tell-tale" tape so it is visible sticking out from under the dinette seat cover) and take positive steps to restore the device to service as soon as possible.

Edited Saturday at 06:36 PM by ADKCamper

[topgun2]

This is NOT the greatest pic below of the frame I made for a switch and the place that the frame was located - just inboard of the detector under the dinette seat.  I used two part epoxy and left it dry overnight and it has been in that spot for the past 7 years. 

Make special note of ADKCamper's note above about "flagging" this or any other safety unit when you have it out of service.

Bill

 

2 inch square bracket for propane switch.jfif

Edited Saturday at 06:37 PM by topgun2

[jd1923]

Given these detectors have a Silence/Test switch on the face, I'm not adding a switch and don't believe it's a good idea given it can be left off when needed.

Is there a brand preference? Meaning are some brands more effective than others?

The brand we have now is RV Safe as pictured above and this link:

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Safe-RVLP-2W-Propane-Alarm/dp/B08VCBH66H/

An Atwood detector was OEM on our hull many years ago, reason OTT cut that big square hole in the fiberglass. This model is a replacement that I believe fits recessed into that spot (though I have not yet verified dimensions). It also has a strength readout. Hopefully it's not too bright under the dinette but the RV Safe model has quite a bright green light too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0F8GMBQ5B/

I'm not sure I trust a built-in "Test" button! We have a LP torch Chris uses for cooking (for melting cheese and browning foods). It will release LP without igniting and when lit it should produce CO. Perhaps a real test is in order time to time. I should wear ear protection and I'll report back when I get around to this test.

So, does anybody know that one brand is better at detecting CO and LP than another?

Edited Sunday at 06:29 PM by jd1923

[GlacierGirl]

FINAL DECISION:

Well, we decided against any shutoff options and went with the RV-Safe alarm like the OEM one that came in our hull #941. Thanks to all for your ideas and thoughts. 

Barb

[topgun2]

36 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

Given these detectors have a Silence/Test switch on the face,

Have you tested this Silence/Test switch?

Does it really Silence the alarm for more than a couple of minutes?  If so, how do you turn it back "on"?

Bill

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

Have you tested this Silence/Test switch?

Does it really Silence the alarm for more than a couple of minutes?  If so, how do you turn it back "on"?

Bill

2 1/2 years never a false alarm for us. Though no RV antifreeze or hairspray ever in our hull. 🤣

The test button will produce the alarm for a few seconds, and then it continues to be ON.

As far as a real test, please see my comment above!

Edited Sunday at 08:00 PM by jd1923
Added much

[GlacierGirl]

On 12/13/2025 at 11:32 AM, ADKCamper said:

Yes... I have used SAE "2-flat" rubberized connectors for 12v dc devices that I might want to disable/remove easily for service, access, replacement, etc.

 

 

 

 

Great idea!

[John Dorrer]

On 12/12/2025 at 11:02 PM, GlacierGirl said:

Would it be possible to use some sort of quick-disconnect connector on the wiring for the propane/CO alarm? We must replace our alarm and, once replaced, I thought it would be wonderfully convenient to simply reach under the dinette seat, rather than under the street side bed, to quickly disconnect it in case of a false alarm.

Barb

I replaced ours on our 2022 with the same unit

 I used Wago connectors, so it would be a quick disconnect, and sure easy for another replacement down the road.

 

[GlacierGirl]

@John Dorrer. The RV-Safe alarm we ordered actually comes with a Wago or Wago-look-alike connector! ☺️

[John Dorrer]

9 minutes ago, GlacierGirl said:

@John Dorrer. The RV-Safe alarm we ordered actually comes with a Wago or Wago-look-alike connector! ☺️

👍