dc power not turning o

[Imelda]

ac shore power turns on microwave and turns on outlet but not lights. i know there fuse blown somewhere but where? 

[mossemi]

Which year and model of Oliver are you asking about?

Mossey

[Imelda]

oliver 2 year 2020

[Imelda]

the ac power is good  microwave is working and ac outlets but no lights and refrigerator and ac not coming on 

[Hokieman]

1 minute ago, Imelda said:

the ac power is good  microwave is working and ac outlets but no lights and refrigerator and ac not coming on 

My 2021 model has a 12V 60A circuit breaker under the street side bunk.

Edited yesterday at 12:08 AM by Hokieman
Typo

[Imelda]

ii am at a camp site. tomorrow i will look for this. 

[Imelda]

i did find the fuse but unless the fuse is bad i flip it on and off but didnt seem to solve the DC power problem i. the trailer. i don’t have a meter to test the fuse. 

[Dean and Mary]

Imelda,

The 60‑amp circuit breaker under the street‑side bunk also supplies power to the jacks in my trailer. Do your jacks work? If they do, then move on to the converter—located under the dinette in my unit—and check the fuses there. If the jacks don’t work, the breaker is most likely the issue.

Dean

 

[Imelda]

Dean, jacks do not work. i cannot get the trailer of the truck hitch. i did flip this 60V and it did not fix the problem. i wonder if i can over ride it or maybe it needs to be replaced. 

i am wondering if I can manually lower the hitch  jack so I can at least unhook the trailer from the truck. 

[Dean and Mary]

I should have started by asking whether you have voltage at the batteries, and then whether you have voltage at the input side of the 60‑amp breaker. A voltmeter will help immensely. It could even be something simple—like lithium batteries that were accidentally switched off.

On my trailer, a 4‑gauge cable runs directly from the batteries to the 60‑amp breaker, and that circuit is independent of the heavier‑gauge cable feeding the inverter. I can double‑check in the morning, but I’m fairly sure the wire going to the converter is connected before the 60‑amp breaker, which would mean the breaker isn’t the issue.

I hope this doesn’t add to the confusion. Dean

[Dean and Mary]

Electric RV jacks almost always have a manual method for raising and lowering them in the event of dead batteries. The connection point is located on top of the jack, and the trailer includes a tool designed specifically to operate it.

[Imelda]

Dean this is very helpful. unfortunately i left my volt meter that i normally carry in the trailer at home but i will try to manually raise the hitch jack with the hand crank tool and then go into town and buy a cheap voltmeter at an auto shop so I can check the batteries. i have lithium ion batteries. and then check voltages from there. i will check the manual and look for wiring diagram. maybe someone at this camp ground has a voltmeter. 

[dewdev]

If you have Lithionic batteries, there is a round push button switch on top of each battery. If they energized the push button will have a light on.

Try calling OTT before they close for the weekend. They may help.

Edited 9 hours ago by dewdev

[Imelda]

Well i broke down and went into town and bought a voltmeter. the 60 A breaker is good. batteries appear to be good. there is a 1A in line fuse after the 60A that i should check. it’s getting really hot in the trailer since no AC but I only have one more day and then home. hoping for cooler weather at home to continue the trouble shooting. 

thanks for the reminder of the manual jack tool. I was beginning to panick but I did find it in the trailer. 😀 I had seen it before but had no idea what it was. so i can lift the jacks to get home  🤞

to be continued. 

[Imelda]

I was wondering if there is a wiring diagram somewhere. i don’t see it in the manuals 

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Imelda said:

Well i broke down and went into town and bought a voltmeter. the 60 A breaker is good. batteries appear to be good.

If you have 12VDC at both ends of the breaker, the same breaker that has the 3 big yellow 30A fuses for leveler jacks, the jacks (unless all 3 fuses are blown) and the lighting should work. Something is not adding up. Test again to be sure that +12VDC is on the load end of the breaker, or recheck both sides. Picture below is from our older hull before I changed all that.

Ours had a 40A fuse vs. 60A but yours should be similar. The source side is on the RIGHT in this picture where power comes from the battery. +12VDC there means batteries are working. Power on the LEFT post means the breaker is closed (working). You should also see power when touching any of the screws or the metal of this positive bus.

Where are you connecting your voltmeter to ground? (battery negative) 

If the breaker is bad, you could bypass it until you replace it, since all the loads are fused individually.

Edited 4 hours ago by jd1923

[Imelda]

I was wondering if there is a wiring diagram somewhere. i don’t see it in the manuals 

[Imelda]

i checked the  60A breaker by just checking to see is if i got a really low resistance value across it as i wasn’t exactly sure where i could get a good ground connection but you are right I do need to check the voltage. I am not sure if this 60A breaker is before or after the converter so if it was good or bad that would tell me about the converter. display lights and fan are on the converter so I am not sure if this says it’s good. . fuses are easier to replace than converters/inverters so when i get back home I will run up a ground wire directly from the battery ground terminal and use it to check for DC voltages. thank you for this. 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Imelda said:

wasn’t exactly sure where i could get a good ground connection

Unfortunately OTT installed this +bus under the bed and the -bus (ground) under the dinette and every Oliver is wired somewhat differently! 🤣

Checkout my picture below. Ignore the bottom half of the picture which is all stuff I installed, but the ground bus at the top of the picture. Notice the coiled up yellow/red-striped wire center of picture. This is a ground wire I added for testing. I leave it there just wound up, but unwound it's long enough to be a test ground for anything inside the cabin. It's a good tool to have ready. I made this recently to test for voltage at the water pump and switches when our water pump went dead (found loose wire on bathroom switch).

Believe it not, for a quick test, you could use the foil covered insulation anywhere in the basement. Most of it is grounded, although it could be a weak ground and not show full voltage. Be careful with hot wires near this foil.

If all your lights and jacks are not working, this breaker must be dead or there's no current coming into it.

1 hour ago, Imelda said:

I am not sure if this 60A breaker is before or after the converter so if it was good or bad that would tell me about the converter.

In the original installation of our Oliver, the converter was wired after the breaker. Actually, you can see it in the picture I posted above in my prior post. The wire coming in from the right came from the B+ battery terminal. Notice the red 8 AWG wire on the left post. It runs to the front connected to the 12VDC fuse panel and hence the PD converter that was integrated to the panel.

Did you open the battery bay and test for voltage right at the batteries?
Do you have 6 or 8 AWG wires connected at the batteries? Do these cables have voltage there where they start?

Then you want to get a ground near your breaker and test there.
I've read several posts re these breakers failing.

Edited 52 minutes ago by jd1923

[Snackchaser]

First I’ll confess that I have no knowledge of how your trailer is equipped, or how it's wired. However, you have given enough clues to narrow it down:

You likely have a 30 or 45 amp converter/charger that's an internal module of the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC distribution panel.

The 60 amp breaker is likely a direct feed from the battery to the converter/charger/distribution panel. It's no surprise you read 12 volts because it’s connected directly to the battery.

The AC section of your distribution panel is probably fine because you have power to the microwave. The reason that the refrigerator and air conditioner aren’t working is because they need 12 volts DC for the controls and thermostat.

Given all that, you likely have a blown internal fuse in the converter/charger, or a burned termination of the large red wire coming from the 60 amp breaker.  Look in your documents for the converter/charger manual, it should show the fuse location within the module.

Be sure to disconnect shore power and open the 60 amp breaker before poking around in there.

Good luck,  Geoff