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Water Heater Anode replacement guidelines (Suburban Service Bulletin)

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Found this, it indicated that the anode can look pretty darn scruffy and still be entirely serviceable. Just because it has some holes, don't toss it. They are not cheap.


EDIT 08/29/19 ... this old thread lost its picture.






John Davies


Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Thanks John,


I did purchase another one but I am keeping it as a spare (after being your post) and will use it next year at winterization time.


Thanks again

Grayson and Ann Cook

Northwest CT and Mid Coast Maine

2016 Oliver Elite II, Twin Bed FP

Toyota Tundra, Extra Cab, Long bed, 5.7 V8


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When we had the Suburban, our anode lasted four or five years. I chalked it up to never using the heater on electricity, just gas. Maybe it was due also to filtered water. Idk.


On boats, anodes (zincs) are usually replced when half eaten. Cheap insurance.


Truly, if we still had a Suburban, I don't think I'd run one down as low as the suburban diagram shows, as most of us only drain that tank once a year, for winterization. For the $10 or so on Amazon, I'd replace it at around half. Just me.


It IS very important to inspect the anode. Thanks for the reminder, John.



2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12


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Routlaw -

I'm sure that you would remember if you had the by-pass valve "off" or not. If you do not use the by-pass valve, you will be adding an additional 6 gallons of anti-freeze over the approximate 1.5 gallons that it takes otherwise.


p.s. of course I'm assuming that you are using anti-freeze versus other winterization methods.

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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