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Try2Relax

Heating System

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While I've read about how the space between the hulls, on the Elite II, is supposed to have some of the heated air directed into it, can someone tell me if this is direct or indirect? In the various things I've done in these areas I've never noticed that there is anything that would indicate it being direct.

 

This brings me to the modification part. If it is indirect, that being the cold air return, to the furnace, coming from the vent under the curb side bed, would it be feasible to locate that return vent under the forward dinette seat instead, as it is now the draw is as close to the furnace as possible, the new location would allow the cabin air to flow across all the tanks and components to increase the cold weather performance of the double hull design.

 

I ask because a few days ago it was in the mid 20s and with two sensors, one in the channel near the drain valve and the other in the channel near the black tank rinse, there was a 17 degree difference, with the furnace set and maintaining temp, the readings weren't checked during it running or close after so I would call it a static check.

 

Thoughts? Opinions?


Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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Randy,

 

Indirect via (as you mention) the cold air return and the heat that radiates from the exterior of the supply ducts plus that of the heater itself.  I'm guessing that the difference in temps you noted is due to the air being "hotter" the closer that you get to the heater and less due to the function of the cold air return.  I'm no HVAC guy, but, given the above I somehow doubt that moving the cold air return will have that much effect on your temp differential.  Perhaps a better spot for the cold air return would be nearer to the thermostat (or move the thermostat) so that it "senses the "cold air and pumps out more heat.  Seriously, I'd guess that the majority of the problem has to do with heat loss from the duct work on the run towards the bath plus the lack of hot air volume getting to the bath.  But, I repeat, I'm not a HVAC guy.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Why don't you block the existing return air grill with cardboard, crack open the dinette access panel and repeat your experiment?

 

If there is a decrease in the delta T then you may want to proceed with your mod. If there is no signifiant difference, well, you have entertained us all for a while and have a great week!

 

My guess is that if you do relocate the return air grill you will hear a little less furnace noise from the rear beds, if that matters at all.

 

If you really wanted to grab the bull by the horns, you could tee into one of the HVAC ducts in the front and install an adjustable damper to bleed hot air directly into the area. A simple mechanical one would probably work OK, after some experimenting. Or you could go all out: ...

 

can-vary-angle-damper.jpg

 

http://www.smartclima.com/category/air-duct-damper

 

Honestly, unless you want a toasty warm bathroom floor, I think this is really a non-issue.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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There seems to be a lot of heat delivered to the "basement" from the hot supply duct as I've noticed the bathroom delivery temp is cooler than the temp back by the beds.  Plus the whole basement gets warm and stays warm.  Also remember there is insulation against the lower shell.

 

I wouldn't worry about freezing any lines unless you are doing no heating and it's very cold.  Also, if you have the water heater on, that would also help.

 

 


John


"I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt."


LE2 #92 (sold),   Black Series HQ19   

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