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Battery access door: is yours insulated?

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Mine is not. I am wondering if they are supposed to be. It seems as if it would be a huge heat loss area.




I'm wondering if I need to get mine swapped or not. Or just add insulation. I have AGMs so venting is not needed.


Does anyone have a link for the type of outside panel insulation Oliver uses, in bulk quantity?


Thanks for any comments.


John Davies


Spokane WA

SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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There's insulation on the battery box itself so I'm not sure if it's necessary to insulate the door, though I suppose it wouldn't hurt.  For both AGM and especially LFP batteries, it would be better to insulate the door and not the box.


I believe they use Reflectix insulation.  They used to spray a few layers of Lizardskin insulation, and I don't know if they still do that - it would be interesting to know.  I don't know if the black that you see on the door isn't Lizardskin.  I didn't think that it was glossy but it could be.

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I would imagine that they are all built for the lowest common denominator, that being wet cells that need to breath, and while AGMs don't require it even they can have an issue. It's easier to add a couple layers of reflectix if desired, than to drill those holes and add those little screens they put in, in case someone decides they really want to install wet cells.


My trailer has the double insulation completely surrounding the battery box between the hulls, so has no more heat loss than any other part of the hull.


If I knew I we're going lithium, I suppose I would request it be closed off and insulated with holes to the inside for hull heat to keep them as warm as possible when needed (requested part of build I mean)

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2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB

2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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