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mdernier

Wheel Chocks - DIY . . .

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Just thought I'd pass along my home-made wheel chock design.  This one is 5 1/2" high, 6" wide, and 8" deep with a durable rubber bottom to increase grip with the ground.  I had thought about buying plastic chocks from Andersen (or competitor), but they seemed like they would not grip the pavement.

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Looking forward to years of exploring in our 2019 LE II, pulling with an F150, V8, 3.73 rear, 4x4 Off Road, tow package . . . All I need to do is retire first!  Matthew   <><

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I understand the screws, but what is the reason for the single big bolt in the center, and why just one? What glue did you use?

 

Other than wanting to do it yourself, was there a reason you didn’t just buy some indestructible black rubber chocks? They grip both the ground and the tire tread (sort of) and are not as large.

 

I agree that plastic ones are not satisfactory for these heavy trailers, tho they are OK for a little one.

 

Thanks,

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Looks like a good design.  Do you have two that are connected by the rope/bungee?

 

I’m still collecting ideas for our Camping for Dummies Session at the rally.  A discussion on chocks and blocks might be good.  Post ideas and pics!  Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

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I wonder if something like that, longer and cut on a slight angle, might work as a combination rear wheel chock and jack pad?

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Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

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The bolt through the center was used to provide additional support to the lamination.  Perhaps not needed, but the bolt is the only fastener that extends through the entire lamination.  There are a total of 12 screws, each of which is 2 1/2" long and fasten respective trios of the layers.  No glue was used because I had none in the shop that would stand up to water.  Nevertheless, I think the screws and bolt are sufficient.

 

I also plan to make jack blocks and jack pads from pressure treated lumber as well.

 

I saw the rubber chocks on line, and they look fine.  I believe that my DIY chocks are a bit taller that the rubber ones I saw on line.  Also, they cost $0 and were fun to build.

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Looking forward to years of exploring in our 2019 LE II, pulling with an F150, V8, 3.73 rear, 4x4 Off Road, tow package . . . All I need to do is retire first!  Matthew   <><

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Yes, the second chock goes on the other end of the rope, although I'm thinking about keeping them separate and possibly even having a third.  On a steep incline, I'd like one chock on each of the downhill wheels.

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Looking forward to years of exploring in our 2019 LE II, pulling with an F150, V8, 3.73 rear, 4x4 Off Road, tow package . . . All I need to do is retire first!  Matthew   <><

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I like how you think on that zero cost thing.  And, it uses "scrap" that was probably just hanging around the shop anyway.

 

I keep two chocks for each side roped together.  Obviously, the rope makes it easy to remove the chock from the wheel, but, having the two roped together means that you can simply get both done at the same time.  And, if it has been raining, the rope is probably drier and/or cleaner than the individual chocks would be.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Questions -

 

What rubber was used on the bottom and how did you attach the rubber to the wood?

 

Also, did you determine the angle of the cut via measuring, an existing chock, guessing, looking at your truck tires, or ????  Any idea of what that angle is?  Did you think of making the face of the chock "cupped" for the radius of the tire?

 

Did you put a coat of poly on these chock to help prevent water retention?

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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What rubber was used on the bottom and how did you attach the rubber to the wood?

 

- Its an industrial grade vibration pad, approximately 3/16" thick.  The material appears to be made out of the same type of material as automobile tires.  Although I had the material left over from another project, I'm sure that it is widely available at hardware stores.  I used a 3M adhesive spray from Home Depot.

 

Also, did you determine the angle of the cut via measuring, an existing chock, guessing, looking at your truck tires, or ???? Any idea of what that angle is? Did you think of making the face of the chock “cupped” for the radius of the tire?

 

- I determined the angle (45 degrees) using a bit of engineering logic.  The 45 degree angle provides an optimal split in the load to the wheel and pavement (for a straight cut).  Although a cupped cut is theoretically better than a straight cut, it would have increased the complexity of the build considerably. And IMO, the improvement doesn't justify the complexity for my build.

 

Did you put a coat of poly on these chock to help prevent water retention?

 

- there is no poly at the moment.  Not a bad idea, though.  The wood is pressure treated, so I do not anticipate much of a problem with water.

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Looking forward to years of exploring in our 2019 LE II, pulling with an F150, V8, 3.73 rear, 4x4 Off Road, tow package . . . All I need to do is retire first!  Matthew   <><

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I have home made, store bought, web purchased, etc. All work, well - except the Anderson's, plastic just slides around. If I wasn't so hard headed I would initially just head to the local Harbor Freight, cheap and reliable - in this case anyways. Good solid rubber wheel chocks - at a great prices.

 

RB

 

 

 

 

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Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"

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