So what's the story on the Anderson WDH

[Trainman]

So I've read everything here I could find on the Anderson WDH on this forum and still have not found out if it's truly the right hitch for me and the trailer. Many on here have had problems with adjusting the hitch and keeping it adjusted, where does this problem occur, is it the adjuster, or the hitch?  Did Anderson correct these problems with older hitches, or is it same hitch still being manufactured in its original design? Some have said that they have had problems when taking the hitch off and can't get it apart to remove it, parts of it have become stuck together, does this still happen? In the past I've only had the WDH's with the torsion bar type of system and found them to work as needed, but this style of hitch is new to me and reading all the problems makes me wonder about the Anderson. Why do others not use a different WDH other then the Anderson, is this because Oliver recommends this hitch, or what? I feel that Oliver recommends this hitch because they have tested it for there trailers and found it the best for the setup and trailer design, so a little input here might clarify things for me, thanks.

 

 

 

trainman

[topgun2]

Trainman -

 

The Andersen is the only WDH that will work with the Olivers without cutting away some of the fiberglass at the front of the camper.

where does this problem occur, is it the adjuster, or the hitch" - the answer is YES.

Since you have used the "normal" type of WDH you probably are aware that there are times that these hitches can be a bit of a problem.  This usually occurs when the camper is at a fairly severe angle to the tow vehicle - the ground is very sloped in one direction or another.  When un hitching and then re-hitching the Andersen it is particularly sensitive to having the tow vehicle and the camper in the same alignment for both operations.  Most times, this is easy to do - but - there are those times (think rain, you are in a hurry, its dark, etc) when it is not so easy.

 

Andersen changed the design of both the "whale tail" and the hitch ball housing a couple of years ago and the old design is no longer produced.

 

Having used the Andersen for over three years it is my belief that as long as you pay attention to Andersen's instructions for removal and application you will encounter very few problems with their hitch system.  On those occasions when it does not cooperate, it helps to stand back for a moment and figure out exactly what the problem it and then correct that problem.  In virtually all cases - if you can not figure out what's wrong - you can simply disconnect the chains, drive to level ground and then (using Andersen's instructions) replace the chains and drive off.  This is nothing very different from placing the torsion bars on an old style system when one simply can't lift it far enough up to get it in the proper place.

 

I would recommend that you take a look at the Andersen video's on YouTube to get an idea of how their system works:

 

 

or

 

 

Bill

[KountryKamper]

I have use the Anderson for over 4 years on 2 different trailers. It's a good system but you must take the time to understand how it works. Like Bill said it is the only system the will easily work on the Oliver. I have had very few times that were a problem hooking up or disconnecting. Like Bill also said just loosen or remove the chains if you do and drive somewhere level and have the vehicle straight and reinstall them. Like any weight distribution system you can use the hitch without the chains (or in a bar type system the bars) being installed.

 

One thing about the Anderson I have noticed is I don't think it has the lift capacity a bar system has so it your vehicle is marginal it may not transfer enough weight.

 

Because we already had the Anderson when we purchased our new truck I still use it even though it's a 3/4 ton truck. It makes the ride much smoother and takes out the porpoiseing when I go over bumps or bridges. I just don't run it very tight to try to transfer weight.

 

 

[John E Davies]

Having used a dead weight hitch on a Ram 3500 and an Andersen on my Land Cruiser, I have to say I prefer not using it, but it is necessary for many lighter trucks. I have used a Drawtite WD hitch in the past, and compared to that the Andersen is lovely, light, simple to store and easy enough to use. It still can be a PITA at times.

 

I think it is important to keep the tongue as light as possible (avoid the cargo tray) and use only enough chain tension to stabilize and take away jounce. If you really crank down on the nuts, the system won’t flex. The ball wears weirdly, but all heavily loaded hitches do that. The Andersen ball assembly is a lot more expensive to replace than a $10 ball fro Walmart. The sleeves wear out, if you buy an Andersen be SURE to get the newest version which has improvements. And buy a spare sleeve.

 

I would much prefer to throw mine away, if I could, but unless I downgrade to a HD Detroit truck, that won’t happen.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[Mike and Carol]

The first month or two of using the Andersen was frustrating. Once I learned a couple of tricks it’s easy to use and quick to hook up. Jason gave me a 15 second lesson one day while I was at the factory and now I don’t mind using it at all. Less than 30 seconds to hook up and the same to unhook. Mike

[Trainman]

Well thanks for the info, after reading what you'all have said I will go with the Anderson. We just got lucky yesterday and there became an open spot for a trailer to be built with a July 8th delivery date, so guess what, we got it, just finished up with Heather on all the details and were set to go. Mike (Lone Star Oliver #135) hope to meet you and Carol someday, rally, of just camping.  John and Susan

 

trainman

[Mike and Carol]

John, congrats on your order and build date! We will be at the rally this year, if you can attend (even in a Casita!) it would be a good chance to get some good ideas and pointers so you’d be a little ahead on the learning curve. It’s always good to have another Texas Oliver.... Mike

[Trainman]

Thanks Mike, is the Anderson No-sway WDH #3324, seems like I've heard that number mentioned somewhere before?

 

 

 

trainman

[John E Davies]

Thanks Mike, is the Anderson No-sway WDH #3324, seems like I’ve heard that number mentioned somewhere before?

trainman

 

What is your tow vehicle? Time to update your profile and signature.....

 

That model of 2” ball 2” stinger fits most trucks, if yours is lifted, or if you have a 2.5” receiver, it isn’t the one..... and you might need a longer drop. You need the ball to sit at around 23.5” with the truck loaded for travel. That is approximate because the Andersen hole spacing is 2” if I remember correctly. You can’t get it exact unless you luck out. It would be nice if they drilled them closer together, there is plenty of material.

 

There has been some discussion about upsizing to the bigger 2 5/16” ball and putting a matching coupler on the trailer. As far as I know they won’t do it during production but Service might swap the bigger one on at delivery. The 2” coupler is rated for only 7000 pounds and is very borderline for capacity, especially if you load heavy and plan to travel a lot of rough roads; the smaller contact area causes the ball to wear excessively. The couplers are about the same price, and look the same other than the opening.

 

It would be significantly cheaper to upsize right from the start than to do it yourself at a later date. Check with your Sales contact if you are interested, and also follow up with Service. I suspect you would have to provide the coupler. They would have to drill new holes, theirs come predrilled from Bulldog. They could stick the one they took off your Ollie onto another frame. .... http://www.bulldogproducts.net/mobile/products/trailer-couplers/straight-couplers/square-rectangular-mount-coupler/cWx03ACJNXOAxT!C6g2PubZ!Y9Ul6YZw6UKreMTgOq0=

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[KountryKamper]

Congrats John & Susan on getting yours ordered. Now the fun begins!

[Trainman]

I just purchased a new 2019 Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.7 hemi, crew cab 5'7" bed, tow package, and 3.92 gears. I will update my profile as we have ordered a trailer.

 

 

 

trainman

[Ken_Judy]

I have a one ton ford van with a factory installed hitch.  The sticker on it says max trailer is 5000 pounds with 500 hitch weight.  With a weight distributing hitch it goes up to 10,000 and 1,000.  I would be liable in an accident if I didn't have the Andersen WDH.  That said, it is no problem to hook up and the the Oliver tracks beautifully.  I don't know if this would be the case without the Andersen but legally I really have no choice.  Congrats on your Ollie.  Try to make the rally.  My wife and I did before we even ordered ours and it was a blast, so many great people.

[Mike and Carol]

I just purchased a new 2019 Ram 1500, 4×4, 5.7 hemi, crew cab 5’7″ bed, tow package, and 3.92 gears. I will update my profile as we have ordered a trailer.

trainman

 

That’s exactly what I have only 2016 and I’ve been happy with it. The new model has some nice features.

 

Not sure what the model number is for the Andersen hitch, I have the old one and have not upgraded because what I have has been working fine. The new one has a different shaped plate that mounts to the hitch that is easier to hook up and allows for more movement on unlevel roads. I’m going to check them out at the Rally to see if it would be worth it to upgrade. Mike

[snowlakemike]

Hey, Mike! Maybe you can share that 15 second lesson that lets you hitch in 30 seconds.  Alabama rally would be a great time to do it.  Maybe we could find two "contestants" and have a hitch speed contest (not me).  I consider it pretty easy to use the Anderson, but it generally takes me several minutes. Rarely, I have to readjust the chains.

[Trainman]

Mike said we could come to the Oliver Rally, we would have to come in the Casita as our new Oliver is due for delivery till July. Would we have to park a couple of miles from the Oliver group, or could we get reasonably close to the group. I can wear my Casita hat with a big X across the word Casita and printed below, "Oliver on order Hull #---, that way someone might talk to us.

 

 

 

trainman

[topgun2]

Trainman -

 

I trust that you are kidding.  We have had "other" brands of campers at previous Oliver Owner Rallies and are happy for them to attend.  Certainly you are more than welcome - we need someone to kid (just kidding of course).

 

Bill

[Mike and Carol]

Hey, Mike! Maybe you can share that 15 second lesson that lets you hitch in 30 seconds. Alabama rally would be a great time to do it. Maybe we could find two “contestants” and have a hitch speed contest (not me). I consider it pretty easy to use the Anderson, but it generally takes me several minutes. Rarely, I have to readjust the chains.

 

Mike, it sounds like what you must do... Lower the hitch on the ball and secure, raise the hitch to where it is with no load or maybe a little higher, slide the Andersen on and secure, lower and go! I don’t adjust chains either. I check thread count periodically and ensure links are tight. Mike

 

Mike said we could come to the Oliver Rally, we would have to come in the Casita as our new Oliver is due for delivery till July. Would we have to park a couple of miles from the Oliver group, or could we get reasonably close to the group. I can wear my Casita hat with a big X across the word Casita and printed below, “Oliver on order Hull #—, that way someone might talk to us.

 

trainman

Seems like last year there were a couple of Casita’s, an Escape and maybe a Scamp. Too bad we don’t have Oliver hats! Seems like they would be popular. Mike

[mountainoliver]

Trainman, check out the good used Andersen hitches in the classifieds.