Window weatherstrip

[Nan]

I need to clean out the window tracks. Can the weatherstrip that is removed to do this be placed back on the windows, or do I need to put a new weatherstrip on each window?  Thanks

[mossemi]

The white weather strip the covers the outside track of the sliding window is reusable.

Be sure to have fun while cleaning the window tracks.

Mike

[Nan]

7 hours ago, mossemi said:

The white weather strip the covers the outside track of the sliding window is reusable.

Be sure to have fun while cleaning the window tracks.

Mike

Any tricks I need to know?  Two of the windows were leaking rain into the camper and I hope this will fix the problem.  Thanks.

[KarenLukens]

Leaking Windows need to be sealed. I've used duct tape across the top of the windows for a quick fix, plus I added rain gutters over all of the windows and that helped a lot. My old 85 pace arrow motor home never had a window leak in the 30 years we used it but the Oliver windows need to be all torn out and resealed when it comes off of the line. We also had to seal everything on the roof that had been overlooked by Oliver on our build. Plus, the rain gutters that were put in our windows at the factory actually blocked the drain holes, so they would fill up completely with water and run over inside. I ended up removing the windows built in gutters, cutting and modifying the plastic by putting drain holes where they should have been. 

The thing that you should do is just pull out the windows as soon as possible and then remove any old caulk and then install and seal them properly yourself. I used a dremel tool to cut the drain holes in the plastic gutter liners and to enlarge the drain openings. Ours leaked from day one until I did this. It was by far, Oliver's biggest fail in our long list of problems that we have all fixed on our own. Don't wait like I did while trying to find the leak. Ours were never sealed at the factory.

Edited December 3, 2019 by KarenLukens

[Nan]

45 minutes ago, KarenLukens said:

Leaking Windows need to be sealed. I've used duct tape across the top of the windows for a quick fix, plus I added rain gutters over all of the windows and that helped a lot. My old 85 pace arrow motor home never had a window leak in the 30 years we used it but the Oliver windows need to be all torn out and resealed when it comes off of the line. We also had to seal everything on the roof that had been overlooked by Oliver on our build. Plus, the rain gutters that were put in our windows at the factory actually blocked the drain holes, so they would fill up completely with water and run over inside. I ended up removing the windows built in gutters, cutting and modifying the plastic by putting drain holes where they should have been. 

The thing that you should do is just pull out the windows as soon as possible and then remove any old caulk and then install and seal them properly yourself. I used a dremel tool to cut the drain holes in the plastic gutter liners and to enlarge the drain openings. Ours leaked from day one until I did this. It was by far, Oliver's biggest fail in our long list of problems that we have all fixed on our own. Don't wait like I did while trying to find the leak. Ours were never sealed at the factory.

Thanks for the information.  This should be a trip for a 73 year old Grandmother to do!

Edited December 3, 2019 by Nan

[Mike and Carol]

We’ve never had a leak from our windows.  Before removing windows try cleaning the tracks to see if that solves any leak issue.  Mike

[Landrover]

Another tip you might want to consider. While you have the rubber weather strips removed. Place them in a bucket with a solution of bleach and warm water let them sit for approx 20min then rinse. This will Remove the back spots mold on them and they’ll be white again.

[KarenLukens]

5 hours ago, Nan said:

Thanks for the information.  This should be a trip for a 73 year old Grandmother to do!

Honestly, you can tell right away if they need to be resealed by running a strip of duct tape over the top of the window seal. Run it so that the top of the tape is stuck to the hull and the rest covers the top window seal. If your leak stops with the duct tape over it after the next rain, then it needs to be resealed. Or just continue with using the duct tape as a quick fix.

[mossemi]

Nan, see this post.

Mike

[Nan]

29 minutes ago, mossemi said:

Nan, see this post.

Mike

Thank you so much!

[choied]

On my 2017 LE2, I had serious condensation and some window seals leaking apparently on my last trip to the Northwest.  When I got home I got to investigating by removing the window shades and the inner clamp ring.  The window shades can be removed by taking a flat-head screwdriver and getting between the shade and the window next to clamp and giving the screwdriver a turn.  This will pop-off the shade which is held on my tension at six spots (3 on top and 3 on bottom).  Removing the clamp ring can be done by unscrewing some screws from around the window on the inside of the trailer.  After removing these two items - you should be able to see some of if not all of the insides of the window frame .... depending on how they cut and/or shimmed the window into the fiberglass. 

I had my daughter inside with a flashlight and I was outside hosing the window under the light fixture.  After a few starts and stops after a few "hey dad, there is water coming in" ... we discovered a small imperfection in the sealant applied to the window frame on the top of the unit......otherwise known as the "leak"....lol.  You could see the water on perfectly sealed spots simply traveling down the body of the trailer, but in this one spot... the water appeared to be entering the trailer.

The window is mainly sealed using the sealant that you can see from the outside .... looks like white silicone.  On the inside of the window frame (once you have taken it off) you will see foam tape.  This is not a sealant and will not prevent water from entering the unit.  So I will now be removing my windows and sealing them up with butyl tape.  If you have never seen or used butyl ... you should know that using it is a "no brainer". Stuff should last a very very very very long time and provide users with peace of mind.  I like my mind at peace. 

On the light fixtures, I simply removed the screws and used plumber's putty.  Stuffed into the screw holes and spread some around the top of the rubber gasket .... like an umbrella.  This was a quick fix, but I think it will hold until I have to replace the lights down the road.

Edited January 17, 2020 by choied

[Ken_Judy]

Shortly after delivery of #381 it was discovered to have a defective window. Oliver service replaced it and removed and reinstalled all the other windows using butyl tape. Since they were seeing such good results with the butyl tape he also made sure that production removed the foam tape that came with the windows and installed butyl tape instead 

[Patriot]

On 1/13/2020 at 7:17 PM, Ken_Judy said:

Shortly after delivery of #381 it was discovered to have a defective window. Oliver service replaced it and removed and reinstalled all the other windows using butyl tape. Since they were seeing such good results with the butyl tape he also made sure that production removed the foam tape that came with the windows and installed butyl tape instead 

The plant production manager told us during our most recent Jan 21 plant tour they are using butyl tape to seal the window frame to the outer shell.
I ordered and today received rain gutter material in advance prepping for our delivery in early May.
So I am open to pointers/suggestions on install. It appears to be straight forward. First I will need to get this roll warmed up and straightened out. 

 

 

Edited February 7, 2020 by Patriot