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Anyone changed out the bathroom fan?


Yukon

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Figured out the bathroom fan  failure was due to the sealing gasket Getting caught in the motor fan blade which intern burned out the fan motor. With Jason’s help . I was able to purchase a new motor from Amazon.  All work is performed via outside by removing the cover. If you are not good on a ladder you may want to have someone do it. I am going to try a new type of gasket and see how that works. As usual poor quality and workmanship comes hone to roost. Oliver just installs the units and has nothing to do with the construction of the fan units.

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Got pictures to share? It is always interesting to see why stuff fails.

Thanks,

John Davies

Spokane WA

SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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Also I did not test the motor, Jason said if the max air is working then likely it’s the motor on the bathroom fan, as both are on the same circuit. Of course it could be the switch........motor arrives on wed for install. We will see how that works. 

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23 hours ago, Yukon said:

 failure was due to the sealing gasket Getting caught in the motor fan blade which intern burned out the fan motor.

I noticed last month when washing my Ollie that the gasket had deteriorated and was coming loose. I pulled off the loose bits but it sounds like I need to take the cover off and clean the rest out as well. Thanks for the heads up. 

Does the cover snap off? It looks like there are a couple of screw holes in your photo but I can’t see how you’d access them from above.

edit, never mind - just took a look and it’s obvious  

Edited by Overland
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6 hours ago, Yukon said:

Also I did not test the motor, Jason said if the max air is working then likely it’s the motor on the bathroom fan, as both are on the same circuit. Of course it could be the switch........motor arrives on wed for install. We will see how that works. 

ShallowGal had to replace a thermal fuse on the the B+ wire at the bath fan earlier this year.  The MaxxAir fan still worked because the bath fan and rectifier diode is at the the end of that circuit.  You mentioned that you did not test the fan, but did you test the power supply at the the fan?

Mossey

Edited by mossemi
Correction
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Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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1 hour ago, Overland said:

Does the cover snap off? It looks like there are a couple of screw holes in your photo but I can’t see how you’d access them from above.

Just two screws. They'll be obvious when you get on the ladder. Pretty simple job except finding replacement gasket material was a challenge. In an emergency I ended up with something close dimensionally but stiffer. Since the cover could then not be pulled down as far, wind force while traveling tended to open it. Had to improvise a kludge fix.

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1 hour ago, mossemi said:

ShallowGal had to replace a blown rectifier diode on the the B+ wire at the bath fan earlier this year.  The MaxxAir fan still worked because the bath fan and rectifier diode is at the the end of that circuit.  You mentioned that you did not test the fan, but did you test the power supply at the the fan?

Mossey

On earlier versions of this fan there is a thermal fuse taped to the side of the fan motor. If the motor became jammed, this fuse  should melt before permanent damage to the motor occurred. On the latest versions, this fuse has been replaced by a fusible wire for the positive pigtail. Either way, neither scheme is serviceable with readily available parts so the entire motor is replaced. Available replacements come with the newer style overload protection and directions that address either style.  With an earlier version, you'll need to access the splice connection at the trailer wiring so the original motor pigtail can be removed and replaced. This means the entire assembly has to be lifted out of the hole. At least with an old versions one could MacGyver a replacement thermal fuse.

Also, be aware that the plastic fan blade is pressed on the splined motor shaft. Getting it off requires substantial hand force. Best to plan on a replacement blade in case it gets damaged in the process.

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Does the original foam seal fail from wind turbulence from leaving the fan cover raised while towing? I tried that one time. Then I saw all the bug carcasses accumulating inside the front and decided to always close it when on the move. I don’t see why the foam would get displaced normally, but perhaps it freezes in winter and then tears.
 

I see the “how” but I want to also understand the “why”.

Perhaps a pretty aluminum Bugs Be Gone Fan Guard (Patent Pending)  wind dam in front of the fan, tall enough to deflect the wind and bugs with the cover raised, could be a good mod....? 😬 A simple piece of aluminum 1x2” angle taped down would work as a prototype...  hmmmm. I think I have a piece in my scrap pile. A  deflector would also stop rain and water flowing off your TV from driving under the seal if you tow in heavy downpours.
 

Checking under the cover is now one more thing to do when wandering up top looking at stuff....
 

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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Ok just took pics of so called thermal fuse, cannot tell if it’s blown, can anyone else? One other thing do not, I will repeat this, do not lose the cover screws , as they cannot be replaced at Ace hardware, they called them specially screws. 

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14 minutes ago, Yukon said:

cannot tell if it’s blown,

There won't be anything obvious to the eye. You'll need to test it with an ohmmeter or continuity tester of some kind.  A 9v battery and test light will work. The motor can be tested with the battery as well.

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2 hours ago, John E Davies said:

Does the original foam seal fail from wind turbulence from leaving the fan cover raised while towing?

The wind turbulence from the fan blade blew mine loose. The seal is adhered to the lid with double-sealstick cellophane tape. In the heat of the sun it doesn't take long.

Edited by bhncb
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Another point about this fan and the mounting position necessary:

Because of the shell contour, the drain hole in the frame has to be pointed toward the front on the down-slope. Unfortunately, this means air, rain water, and bugs (JD) will be driven inside the housing while driving. The negative consequences are to be expected. I'm noodling a shark fin deflector to stick on the fiberglass just below the hole but haven't come up with one yet.

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9 minutes ago, Yukon said:

Thanks, may try your idea, 9 volt can’t hurt much.

You can also stick your tongue on a lead instead of using a test light.😄 But, you really should carry a test light in your minimum tools kit.

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1 minute ago, Yukon said:

How about removing the internal thermal fuse completely, it’s only a 25.00 junk part. Or maybe a safety issue?

Can't recommend that. However remote, a malfunction could  cause the motor to overheat and start melting the wiring. The fuse could be replaced but you'd have to find the appropriate one and use high-temp parallel crimps. Not worth the effort or cost.

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5 hours ago, mossemi said:

ShallowGal had to replace a blown rectifier diode thermal fuse on the the B+ wire at the bath fan earlier this year.  The MaxxAir fan still worked because the bath fan and rectifier diode is at the the end of that circuit.  You mentioned that you did not test the fan, but did you test the power supply at the the fan?

Mossey

Yep!  I confuse myself sometimes, bhncb.  Thanks for the frown👍.
Mossey

70C4B01D-172E-4E6D-8F1F-8294F76BDFE8.thumb.png.1992c69dfa555aa59fab581f0e4f75a6.png

Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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