HOW TO: Propane/ CO Detector On/ Off power switch

[John E Davies]

The detector uses a little bit of power, about 0.05 amps, even when everything else is turned off. Normally that isn't a worry, unless you want to keep the batteries connected long term and you are not plugged into shore power. A little drain over many months can flatten a battery bank. Plus it is nice to be able to silence a nuisance alarm or a failed unit by switching it off rather than locating and pulling its fuse (which is at the 12 volt DC bus under the rear street side bed). Here is mine, the location WILL vary because I moved mine to the back a foot, but the wire comes off the manual reset circuit breaker. I added the labels. The Oliver wire does have a factory installed label "1 amp" but it doesn't identify the purpose of the wire!

Remove the fuse or disconnect the batteries! Remove the unit (4 screws) and cut the wires. Make a little bracket from 6061 T6 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminum angle, and secure it to the compartment wall with 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape. Epoxy would also work fine.

The switch is a simple, non-LED On/Off SPST switch that matches the other Ollie switches. It requires a 0.800" hole, which can be made with a step drill AKA Uni-Bit.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html

Any type of switch will work because it is not normally visible. It is similar to this illuminated model:

I used the existing Red for positive and Black for ground detector wires. The factory harness has a Blue positive and Yellow ground.

Unplug the switch. Splice the new harness into the old one, working outside the compartment (under the table). I was able to discard two feet of extra wires. Install the detector body into its hole. Feed the switch wires through the round hole and mount the switch (it presses in with two retaining clips). Note that it has a little plastic "key" under the lip, that needs a matching notch in the hole, or else just file off the key entirely.

Cover the wires with plastic split loom and secure them with cable ties so that they don't flop around.

The switch could be located anywhere, but this spot makes it quite simple. A location on the outside of the compartment would work, but it would be possible to turn it off by mistake, which could be dangerous or fatal. Put it somewhere out of the normal traffic flow, and not in a storage compartment where loose gear could bump it! You still need to check the unit for proper operation before each trip and then weekly.

Finally, adding a switch violates the RV build codes! Do this mod only if you fully understand its benefits and its potential risks. Because of my extensive mods, I added a BIG information placard under that access cover, it includes information on the Propane  Detector switch. Something similar to the last paragraph might be prudent.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2021 by John E Davies

[John E Davies]

Added an additional warning placard and also an orange streamer (surveyors tape) that acts as a reminder. It is tied inside to a wire bundle. When the switch is turned on, the flag goes inside the compartment until the next time it is switched off. The placard is sideways so it can be read when you poke your head under the table.

FYI, I also added a flag at the back, for the Redarc DC to DC charger, for when I have it disconnected by manually tripping the circuit breaker (another phantom drain).

Aviation nerds recognize these streamers , they save lives: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remove_before_flight

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 7, 2021 by John E Davies

[Galway Girl]

Very nice job.

I need to get some of those wire tags.

I've been tracing wires like crazy trying to figure out how Oliver hooked things up as I prepare to swap out my existing factory installed Xantrex ProWatt Inverter for a new Xantrex XC2000 Pro Inverter Charger and new Lithiums.

Scratching my head as many of the wiring diagrams are missing...for example, I don't have a wiring diagram at ALL for the 2000W ProWatt Inverter circuit.

The AC power input to the ProWatt comes from the AC breaker panel and connects through an auto switch in front of the ProWatt 2000.
The ProWatt AC inverter output from the auto switch runs forward and connects to the GFCI Outlet that is under the front dinette seat.
That circuit loops all the way around the trailer and includes the microwave, fridge and all the outlets, and ends up connected
back at a 20A AC breaker in the PD4000 distribution panel.

Craig

 

[John E Davies]

Label ties: Nylon Marker Cable Ties, 250pcs 6 Inch

I paid $10, I do not know what happened to that seller. Do some searching for a good price...., A brand NEW Sharpie Fine Point pen (not the Ultra Fine) works great to mark them - don’t use a worn one with smooshed tip, that is a mess.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 7, 2021 by John E Davies

[SeaDawg]

I sometimes use surveyor's  tape (flagging tape) to mark areas. It's cheap. Maybe, 2 cents a foot, or less.

 

[Trainman]

For John Davies, I like the idea of the switch for on and off use. I do realize that safety is most important in doing this and I was thinking of putting the on and off switch under the dinette seat where the other electronics are located, this I think would be a safe place as nothing is stored under this seat. I see in the pics that there are two red wires together on one of the on and off switch terminals on the back and one wire is a single wire, does it make any difference which wires go where. I have not looked at the wires on the back side of the detector yet to see how they are arranged, how do I know which two red wires go together and which one is the single one. Turning off the detector does cause me some concern and would be adding another battery power unit like they use in home use be advisable, they seen not to be as sensitive as RV units are. I guess I'm like many others, my unit just goes off for reasons that I can't seem to find out why, you know the drill, open all windows, turn on fan to take air out, etc. and hope the unit will stop buzzing. Does hitting the reset button do anything, I know when I hit the reset it does nothing at the present time, I guess the detectors is not clear yet and is still detecting something. Any info you could give here will be appreciated much, thanks, trainman

[Landrover]

John You always have very good Modifications idea’s. This one I have to disagree with. These units are there for one very important purpose to save your life. Maybe not so much for propane because of the smell but carbon monoxide as we all know is a silent killer, especially in the small confined space of the Oliver.  I’ll agree they are a pita when they malfunction and the alarms sounds in the middle of the night for no reason.  As for myself forgetfulness is becoming more often than i care to admit. Its one switch I would not want to forget even with it flagged.  With high safety  issues  modifications like this is not a good idea to share imo.

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Landrover said:

John You always have very good Modifications idea’s. This one I have to disagree with. These units are there for one very important purpose to save your life. Maybe not so much for propane because of the smell but carbon monoxide as we all know is a silent killer, especially in the small confined space of the Oliver.  I’ll agree they are a pita when they malfunction and the alarms sounds in the middle of the night for no reason.  As for myself forgetfulness is becoming more often than i care to admit. Its one switch I would not want to forget even with it flagged.  With high safety  issues  modifications like this is not a good idea to share imo.

You have a SECOND CO detector, in back with the smoke alarm. Removing one isn't going to kill anybody, as long as the other one works. A malfunctioning alarm that keeps blasting for no reason is 100% useless, and must be silenced IMHO, until it can be replaced. Which should be done ASAP, not at the end of a long trip.

The two red wires coming off the detector get spliced together, I don't recall wyhy the second one is there, I think it is for an alternative power source. Just connect them onto one terminal of the switch and run a new wire back from the other terminal to connect to the Oliver power wire. I used a SPST switch (Single Pole Single Throw) switch, it doesn't matter which terminals you use. If you use an illuminated switch with an LED, then polarity does matter, and you also have to run a separate ground wire for the LED. What is really confusing is how Oliver uses non standard colors for their DC wires ! I don't understand how they expect an owner or technician to do anything since they no longer publish diagrams.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Trainman]

36 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

You have a SECOND CO detector, in back with the smoke alarm. Removing one isn't going to kill anybody, as long as the other one works. A malfunctioning alarm that keeps blasting for no reason is 100% useless, and must be silenced IMHO, until it can be replaced. Which should be done ASAP, not at the end of a long trip.

The two red wires coming off the detector get spliced together, I don't recall wyhy the second one is there, I think it is for an alternative power source. Just connect them onto one terminal of the switch and run a new wire back from the other terminal to connect to the Oliver power wire. I used a SPST switch (Single Pole Single Throw) switch, it doesn't matter which terminals you use. If you use an illuminated switch with an LED, then polarity does matter, and you also have to run a separate ground wire for the LED. What is really confusing is how Oliver uses non standard colors for their DC wires ! I don't understand how they expect an owner or technician to do anything since they no longer publish diagrams.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Thanks John, I didn't know that the other detector is also a propane detector, your pics and detail reply where what I needed, thanks, trainman

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Trainman said:

Thanks John, I didn't know that the other detector is also a propane detector, your pics and detail reply where what I needed, thanks, trainman

???? The second one, in the back, is a combo CO/ smoke detector. I am not sure how you interpreted it differently. At least with propane, the nose works really well to detect even small leaks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Landrover]

3 hours ago, John E Davies said:

You have a SECOND CO detector, in back with the smoke alarm. Removing one isn't going to kill anybody, as long as the other one works. A malfunctioning alarm that keeps blasting for no reason is 100% useless, and must be silenced IMHO, until it can be replaced. Which should be done ASAP, not at the end of a long trip.

The two red wires coming off the detector get spliced together, I don't recall wyhy the second one is there, I think it is for an alternative power source. Just connect them onto one terminal of the switch and run a new wire back from the other terminal to connect to the Oliver power wire. I used a SPST switch (Single Pole Single Throw) switch, it doesn't matter which terminals you use. If you use an illuminated switch with an LED, then polarity does matter, and you also have to run a separate ground wire for the LED. What is really confusing is how Oliver uses non standard colors for their DC wires ! I don't understand how they expect an owner or technician to do anything since they no longer publish diagrams.

John Davies

Spokane WA

So you have two for safety in case one fails. One is shut off and forgotten to be turned back on the second one fails ☠️ Thanks for the clarification.