Intermittent Oliver light

[JRK]

I seem to recall a thread about the rear facing Oliver light, but can't seem to locate it. I noticed that the light shines intermittently, with no consistency. I assume that there is a loose connection, someplace. Any suggestions as to where? I assume that an access to a connection at or near the light would be through one of the two panels in the rear cabinet. Is that a place to start to see where the connection problem might be?

Elite I. Picked up 8 days ago.

John

[ScubaRx]

Usually, this is the result of water in the umbilical connector. I causes a short and the tail lights (or other body lights) will come on while not  hooked to the truck. It is back feeding from the trailer batteries.

[JRK]

Okay. This was while I was driving. I noticed it in the rear view camera at night. I should have someone look at the tail lights. The marker lights didn't change.

I will check the cord, also. 

Edited March 27, 2021 by JRK

[Overland]

Oliver may have changed the wiring from when my E2 was built, but if yours is like mine, the wiring to the Oliver light will be in the street side compartment of the attic.  On mine, there are two bolts on the bottom of the righthand panel and that's all you need to remove to gain access.  There's a 12 volt bus bar inside with screw connections and those connections would be the first thing that I'd check.  You should also be able to access the light itself by pulling down the insulation in the back of the attic.

[JMSpoff]

Overland, I've had this problem with the marker light in the lower position of the front, passenger side.  When you get a chance could you take a quick pic of the area you are referring to.  THANK YOU!!

[Overland]

I doubt if any of the front marker lights would be connected to the attic bus bar in the back. I think JRK is referring specifically to the big “Oliver” light on the back of the trailer.

More likely the light that you’re having trouble with is hooked to the main bus under the pantry/dinette. That’s a ~6” long aluminum bus bar on the very bottom under the dinette seat with a ton of yellow wires attached: 

I’d check those connections but also there should be a round access hatch in the closet to access that light, so check the connection there too.

Should be noted that you can overtighten the screws on those bus bars, cutting the wires; so don’t go crazy tightening all the screws. Just snug enough that the wire doesn’t pull out. 

Edited March 28, 2021 by Overland

[JMSpoff]

Thank you :)

[JRK]

Thanks

i assume that is for the E2. I have an E1. 

Why use an aluminum bus bar? Not a good choice. 

[JRK]

On 3/27/2021 at 10:49 AM, Overland said:

Oliver may have changed the wiring from when my E2 was built, but if yours is like mine, the wiring to the Oliver light will be in the street side compartment of the attic.  On mine, there are two bolts on the bottom of the righthand panel and that's all you need to remove to gain access.  There's a 12 volt bus bar inside with screw connections and those connections would be the first thing that I'd check.  You should also be able to access the light itself by pulling down the insulation in the back of the attic.

The light is "sealed" in place, using caulking around the fixture in the attic. Not a simple as pulling down the insulation, as it used to be. Have to cut off the caulk to remove the cover for the light. I have hopefully my last week of work this week, and then will get to the several repairs and fixes needed.

Why did they use the same color wire for all circuits/connections? Much more difficult to trace wires. I have a tone generator that can help to identify wiring, but still, should not need it. 

John

[Overland]

I'd think the light itself would be the last thing to check, though who knows.  Since it's LED, I'd think it wold be on or off and not flickering.  Those bus bars are the surely the prime candidate for the symptoms you're describing.  Oliver uses stiff solid wire, that will stay in place in the bus bar even if its hold down is completely unscrewed.  But of course once you're underway, the vibration will reveal the loose connection.  

[JRK]

I looked at the buss bar, and found that the inverter had ripped out of its mount, and was resting on top of the buss bar, able to blop about and bang into the circuit breaker. That was probably causing the issue. 

Only the top two screws were used to mount the inverter. The bottom two had not been installed, or there was no hole that showed that the two bottom screws had been installed. I assume that the bottom was able to come away from its mounting board, stressed the top two screws causing one screw to strip out and one screw to fracture the plastic (resin?) mounting board at the screw. 

I'll replace the mounting screws, in new holes, of course, and see if the light issue stops, which I expect it to do.

John

[Frank C]

Really disappointing to see that mounting problem with the inverter.  I’m usually pretty impressed overall with the Oliver design and engineering but then stuff like this pops up with brand new trailers.  Just two small screws holding that inverter was a failure waiting to happen.   

[SeaDawg]

If you haven't already done so, please open a service ticket. Include those photos.

Though I  know you'll fix it yourself, that's a quality control issue that Oliver should be made aware of.

[Rivernerd]

On 4/5/2021 at 10:37 PM, JRK said:

Why did they use the same color wire for all circuits/connections? Much more difficult to trace wires. I have a tone generator that can help to identify wiring, but still, should not need it. 

John

This same question occurred to me when viewing the photo of the bus bar.  Cars and trucks use color-coded wiring harnesses.  Why does a high-end travel trailer not do the same?  Does Oliver still use the same yellow low-voltage wire for all connections?

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Rivernerd said:

This same question occurred to me when viewing the photo of the bus bar.  Cars and trucks use color-coded wiring harnesses.  Why does a high-end travel trailer not do the same?  Does Oliver still use the same yellow low-voltage wire for all connections?

Cars and trucks are mass produced, and use drop in harnesses with all connectors in place. RVs are not, and having specialized automotive grade wires would really drive up the cost. Aircraft wires are actually individually labeled with a code and gauge (size) using a special wire marker device. Really high end RVs like an Earth Cruiser use individual heat shrunk labels at each end, that identify the purpose. Both those are really labor intensive.

Not all wires are yellow, just the ground ones. They no longer supply a detailed set of wiring diagrams, just a “component location” diagram which is (very slightly) better than nothing. If you want to look at wires, an older Owners Manual will have them. Here is one from the 2018 LE2 book.

.John Davies

Spokane WA

[Rivernerd]

Thanks for the education, and for the copy of the wiring diagram.  I wired my new home in Idaho, and have done auto electrical work on my own vehicles.  I have also rewired the lights on my raft trailer a couple of times.  In each of those applications, the wires have been color coded.  It is helpful to know that the ground wires in Oliver trailers are all yellow (as opposed to the green I am used to).  Is the yellow ground standard for travel trailers?