Jump to content

Bathroom window leak


Recommended Posts

I've finally determined my leaky bath widow is leaking from the top outside seal having a gap.  I have removed the widow and cleaned all the old chalk material.  I've read many of the posts here that talk about sealing the widows but don't see a recommendation on what sealant to use.  I did see negative comments concerning the 3M Marine Sealant 4000 UV and it also gets very negative reviews on google.   So what do you recommend?

Thanks, David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Are you talking about caulking around the window, after install? 

Don't use 3m 4000 to install/bed.. Use a good quality butyl. 

3m 4000 uv is fine for caulk. Not bedding, imo. It's really tough to remove, which someday you will probably have to do. Easier with a heat gun and plastic scraper.

Let the butyl rest a day or two, trim, with a plastic blade . Then caulk. With butyl, it's mostly just to protect the exposed edge from uv.

Or, you "could " do like most of the world, and bed with clear silicon. I hate that too, but it works. I'm  not a silicon fan, because of the hassle in cleaning it up years later. 

  • Like 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with SeaDawg.  I used two layers of butyl tape.  I folded each strip of tape in half, length wise and installed one on the inner edge of the outside flange and one outer edge.  After installation, I left the window in the sun for a couple of days and trimmed the very little excess off with a plastic razor blade and left it.

I think it looks much cleaner without caulk and there really isn't any exposed edge needing sealed.

 

Andrew 

  • Like 1

Andrew, Carianne and Buffy | San Diego, CA


2019 Legacy Elite II Hull #468 "California Burrito" | 2018 BMW x5 35d 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Several good suggestions for long term fix.  I carry a roll of white weather proof duct tape in my travel kit when we are away from home.  I have found also from window track leaks that keeping the windows/trailer level is very helpful in preventing water intrusion.

  • Like 1

George and Gretchen


Gig Harbor, Wa.


Hull Number 178

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Order the white butyl, which is actually kind of grey. Don't get black.

Butyl is good in both cold and heat. Good quality butyl is a synthetic hybrid,  so it doesn't "ooze" in the sun. If you have leftover, store it in the garage fridge , not on a garage shelf. It lasts a long time that way. And, its easier to work with if the butyl tape is cold, rather than warm. In my opinion.

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
8 minutes ago, geokeg said:

Several good suggestions for long term fix.  I carry a roll of white weather proof duct tape in my travel kit when we are away from home.  I have found also from window track leaks that keeping the windows/trailer level is very helpful in preventing water intrusion.

Duct tape is a good temporary fix. It's  also a good isolation tool. If you "think" you know where the leak is, tape it. Best when it's warm, and press with a rolled rag, or roll well with a wallpaper seam tool.. If the leak no longer appears, you found it. If it's still there, look elsewhere. Third light above is a known culprit. We replaced ours, bedded it with butyl, and I've been enjoying a dry attic and dry corner of the bed ever since.

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
27 minutes ago, geokeg said:

Several good suggestions for long term fix.  I carry a roll of white weather proof duct tape in my travel kit when we are away from home.  I have found also from window track leaks that keeping the windows/trailer level is very helpful in preventing water intrusion.

Those darn weepholes are important,  and a pita to clean. I've used pipe cleaners, line trimmer string lengths, and a variety of implements. Even dental picks. Don't use qtips. They can leave cotton fibers behind. 

Once or twice a year, I use air pressure.  Paul has a tiny nozzle for the garage air compressor,  with many feet of hose,, and I  use that. It's great. Blows all the gunk out. ( I clean the track, before and after.) I often use an old, soft brustle toothbrush to clean the tracks. Don't use yours, lol. Use an old one  

It's really important to keep the weep holes, and track clean. 

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A roll of butyl tape and the window is back in.  On a side note when removing the inner shell of the window I noticed six of the ten screws were broken off and not really holding the two halves together.  Looks like a combination of cheap screws and a heavy handed electric driver on the screws.  I wonder how many of the other widows are the same.  I did have one screw head fall out on my dinette window.  Thanks for all your responses.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

@dfdouglas, I'm glad you were successful.  

What year is your Ollie? You won't be the first (maybe not the last either) to report overdriven screws on the windows of a 2017.

Sorry for your troubles , though. Glad you used the butyl. Trim it out with a plastic blade in a few days if it oozes.

  • Like 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
44 minutes ago, dfdouglas said:

A roll of butyl tape and the window is back in.  On a side note when removing the inner shell of the window I noticed six of the ten screws were broken off and not really holding the two halves together.  Looks like a combination of cheap screws and a heavy handed electric driver on the screws.  I wonder how many of the other widows are the same.  I did have one screw head fall out on my dinette window.  Thanks for all your responses.  

I’ve got a bunch that are broken off too.

  • Sad 1

Texas Hill Country | Elite II #135 | Ram 2500 6.7L

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpgALAZARCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMAMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don’t understand all the hate for 3M 4000 UV, I use it by preference and don’t find it too hard to get off. You do need to shear it with a thin FLEXIBLE stainless putty knife and hammer, once that is broken free the rest comes off fine with plastic scrapers and a good solvent.

I OTH do hate butyl tape. So there.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
3 hours ago, John E Davies said:

I don’t understand all the hate for 3M 4000 UV, I use it by preference and don’t find it too hard to get off. You do need to shear it with a thin FLEXIBLE stainless putty knife and hammer, once that is broken free the rest comes off fine with plastic scrapers and a good solvent.

I OTH do hate butyl tape. So there.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

I like butyl because I  don't have to use a thin stainless knife and a hammer. It's sort of old school, but it rarely fails. Pretty much self healing, as it remains flexible through a wide temp range, and ages pretty well.

It's more of a sealant, than adhesive,  so windows and ports,  where screws or other fasteners are required,  is the best.

Everyone needs to find a favorite.  You've found yours. I have mine.

  • Like 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...