Bathroom window leak

[dfdouglas]

I've finally determined my leaky bath widow is leaking from the top outside seal having a gap.  I have removed the widow and cleaned all the old chalk material.  I've read many of the posts here that talk about sealing the widows but don't see a recommendation on what sealant to use.  I did see negative comments concerning the 3M Marine Sealant 4000 UV and it also gets very negative reviews on google.   So what do you recommend?

Thanks, David

[SeaDawg]

Are you talking about caulking around the window, after install? 

Don't use 3m 4000 to install/bed.. Use a good quality butyl. 

3m 4000 uv is fine for caulk. Not bedding, imo. It's really tough to remove, which someday you will probably have to do. Easier with a heat gun and plastic scraper.

Let the butyl rest a day or two, trim, with a plastic blade . Then caulk. With butyl, it's mostly just to protect the exposed edge from uv.

Or, you "could " do like most of the world, and bed with clear silicon. I hate that too, but it works. I'm  not a silicon fan, because of the hassle in cleaning it up years later. 

[Overland]

There’s a good bit of sealant discussion in this thread - 

 

[AndrewK]

I agree with SeaDawg.  I used two layers of butyl tape.  I folded each strip of tape in half, length wise and installed one on the inner edge of the outside flange and one outer edge.  After installation, I left the window in the sun for a couple of days and trimmed the very little excess off with a plastic razor blade and left it.

I think it looks much cleaner without caulk and there really isn't any exposed edge needing sealed.

 

Andrew 

[geokeg]

Several good suggestions for long term fix.  I carry a roll of white weather proof duct tape in my travel kit when we are away from home.  I have found also from window track leaks that keeping the windows/trailer level is very helpful in preventing water intrusion.

[SeaDawg]

Order the white butyl, which is actually kind of grey. Don't get black.

Butyl is good in both cold and heat. Good quality butyl is a synthetic hybrid,  so it doesn't "ooze" in the sun. If you have leftover, store it in the garage fridge , not on a garage shelf. It lasts a long time that way. And, its easier to work with if the butyl tape is cold, rather than warm. In my opinion.

[SeaDawg]

8 minutes ago, geokeg said:

Several good suggestions for long term fix.  I carry a roll of white weather proof duct tape in my travel kit when we are away from home.  I have found also from window track leaks that keeping the windows/trailer level is very helpful in preventing water intrusion.

Duct tape is a good temporary fix. It's  also a good isolation tool. If you "think" you know where the leak is, tape it. Best when it's warm, and press with a rolled rag, or roll well with a wallpaper seam tool.. If the leak no longer appears, you found it. If it's still there, look elsewhere. Third light above is a known culprit. We replaced ours, bedded it with butyl, and I've been enjoying a dry attic and dry corner of the bed ever since.

[SeaDawg]

27 minutes ago, geokeg said:

Several good suggestions for long term fix.  I carry a roll of white weather proof duct tape in my travel kit when we are away from home.  I have found also from window track leaks that keeping the windows/trailer level is very helpful in preventing water intrusion.

Those darn weepholes are important,  and a pita to clean. I've used pipe cleaners, line trimmer string lengths, and a variety of implements. Even dental picks. Don't use qtips. They can leave cotton fibers behind. 

Once or twice a year, I use air pressure.  Paul has a tiny nozzle for the garage air compressor,  with many feet of hose,, and I  use that. It's great. Blows all the gunk out. ( I clean the track, before and after.) I often use an old, soft brustle toothbrush to clean the tracks. Don't use yours, lol. Use an old one  

It's really important to keep the weep holes, and track clean. 

[dfdouglas]

A roll of butyl tape and the window is back in.  On a side note when removing the inner shell of the window I noticed six of the ten screws were broken off and not really holding the two halves together.  Looks like a combination of cheap screws and a heavy handed electric driver on the screws.  I wonder how many of the other widows are the same.  I did have one screw head fall out on my dinette window.  Thanks for all your responses.  

[SeaDawg]

@dfdouglas, I'm glad you were successful.  

What year is your Ollie? You won't be the first (maybe not the last either) to report overdriven screws on the windows of a 2017.

Sorry for your troubles , though. Glad you used the butyl. Trim it out with a plastic blade in a few days if it oozes.

[Mike and Carol]

44 minutes ago, dfdouglas said:

A roll of butyl tape and the window is back in.  On a side note when removing the inner shell of the window I noticed six of the ten screws were broken off and not really holding the two halves together.  Looks like a combination of cheap screws and a heavy handed electric driver on the screws.  I wonder how many of the other widows are the same.  I did have one screw head fall out on my dinette window.  Thanks for all your responses.  

I’ve got a bunch that are broken off too.

[John E Davies]

I don’t understand all the hate for 3M 4000 UV, I use it by preference and don’t find it too hard to get off. You do need to shear it with a thin FLEXIBLE stainless putty knife and hammer, once that is broken free the rest comes off fine with plastic scrapers and a good solvent.

I OTH do hate butyl tape. So there.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

[SeaDawg]

3 hours ago, John E Davies said:

I don’t understand all the hate for 3M 4000 UV, I use it by preference and don’t find it too hard to get off. You do need to shear it with a thin FLEXIBLE stainless putty knife and hammer, once that is broken free the rest comes off fine with plastic scrapers and a good solvent.

I OTH do hate butyl tape. So there.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

I like butyl because I  don't have to use a thin stainless knife and a hammer. It's sort of old school, but it rarely fails. Pretty much self healing, as it remains flexible through a wide temp range, and ages pretty well.

It's more of a sealant, than adhesive,  so windows and ports,  where screws or other fasteners are required,  is the best.

Everyone needs to find a favorite.  You've found yours. I have mine.

[Overland]

Caulk Fight! 

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