Problem with rear emergency escape window

[Fargoman]

While cleaning our Ollie prior to storing it indoors after 8000K miles traveling this year, I discovered that the rear emergency escape window would not open - the latch would not release completely on the curbside. I had not previously tried to open the rear window since taking delivery in September 2021 (oversight on my part at delivery, trust but verify).

With the curbside red handle completely open, the window would only open about 3/16ths of an inch, just enough to see that the metal hook that the red lever grabs onto was loose, and was impinging on the frame of the movable window. With some gentle lateral prying, I was able to open the window. When I attempted to tighten the screws that attach the metal hook to the window mounting frame, they were stripped.

I reattached the metal hook using larger sheet metal screws and thought the problem was solved, but that would be too easy. After much pondering, it turns out that the hinged window was not perfectly centered in the external mounting frame, being offset approximately 1/8th inch to the curbside, and there is no way to change that - it was just a defective window assembly from the supplier. With my precision hammer, I modified (bent) the part of the moveable window frame that contacted the metal hook enough that it would allow the window to open and close, but not without some contact between the parts. So, the window is now functional, but not pretty when open, which won't happen very often, but resale value would be compromised when the time comes to part with Ollie, as I would have to disclose the damage.

Mike Sharpe at Oliver Support has been very helpful throughout this process, and has offered to send me a replacement window assembly. I asked Mike if the installers at Oliver actually verify that windows work properly after they plug them into the hull openings, because delivering a defective emergency escape window would be a huge liability for Oliver in the event of injury or death. I can't imagine how a functioning window assembly could fail if it had never been opened. I have not gotten a reply to this question yet, as it was after business hours in Hohenwald when I posed this question.

Because I live in far northern California, and am not planning to travel back to the mothership any time soon, I need to find a reputable RV repair facility that works on fiberglass trailers to install the new window assembly. I know that there a handful of Ollie owners on the West Coast, and would appreciate recommendations for repair shops that would be within a day or two travel time.

So, for current or soon-to-be Ollie owners, make sure your emergency escape window works properly.

[AlbertNTerri]

sounds like a warranty issue, Oliver should be able to give you the name of someone in your area who can solve the problem. Please keep us updated on the issue as it evolves. I'm going to check my rear window. 

albert

[Rivernerd]

10 hours ago, Fargoman said:

I need to find a reputable RV repair facility that works on fiberglass trailers to install the new window assembly.

Thanks for posting about this (hopefully rare) defect.  We pick up our Elite II in about 2 weeks.  I now plan to verify proper operation of the emergency egress window!

Your post suggests you are fairly "handy."  Did your evaluation of the rear window assembly reveal how it is installed in the Oliver?  Since reputable RV repair facilities seem to be hard to find, have you determined what would be required to replace the rear window yourself, maybe with help from a friend?

Jason Essary's video on window shade removal, available through the link below, shows what the windows look like with the shade assembly removed.  It makes me wonder if the inside window assemblies are screwed to the outside part of the assembly, and so could be replaced by removing the screws (and, I expect, some sealant), and separating the inside and outside parts of the frame?

 

[Fargoman]

AlbertNTerri, I did request a replacement window assembly, and also asked Mike Sharpe about recommended RV repair facilities on the West Coast, but he said they don't have any. I seem to recall reading earlier Forum posts about Oliver trying to establish such a list, but apparently it hasn't happened yet.

[AndrewK]

Fargoman,

Replacing a window is really a very simple process.  The only real work is removing the old caulk.

I have found using just butyl tape works very well, requires no caulking and is a much cleaner installation.   

If you are anywhere near San Diego, I would be more than happy to help you with it.

Andrew

[Fargoman]

Rivernerd, along with a replacement window assembly, I asked Mike Sharpe to send detailed removal and installation instructions so that I, or whoever replaces the window knows what to do. I'm not certain that most RV repair facilities are used to working on fiberglass trailers. If the process is not complicated, I'd consider doing the job myself, with a helper to give me 'constructive criticism'. 😄

[Fargoman]

Thanks for the input and offer, Andrew. Have you replaced a window on your Ollie, or another fiberglass trailer?

My wife has some relatives and friends in the LA & San Diego area, so a trip down south could accomplish two things.

I like your Ollies name - I haven't been able to think of anything novel yet.

[AndrewK]

Fargoman,

I have had to replace the bathroom window three times due to fogging.

I would be more than happy to walk you through it once you get the replacement or help you install it.

Message me your contact information when you are ready.

Andrew

[Fargoman]

Andrew,

Having to replace the bathroom window three times must have been frustrating, especially since your Ollie isn't very old, but now you're the window expert by necessity.

I'll definitely keep your offer in mind when the new window assembly arrives.

[Frank C]

I just replaced the bathroom window in our Ollie as well due to fogging between the glass panes.   The window replacement is actually pretty straightforward if you have basic handyman skills.  As Andrew mentioned, removing all the old caulk to get a good clean surface is the hardest part of the job.  I used Dicor Butyl foamcore tape (link below) to bed the window to the hull.  Very sticky, and a round profile so it goes around the corners of the inside surface of window frame very easily without wrinkling, so it makes a very good seal.  I finished it off with white DAP AMP caulking around the perimeter (UV resistant and specified for metal and fiberglass). 

https://dicorproducts.com/product/seal-tite-butyl-foamcore-roll/

 

[Mountainman198]

4 hours ago, AndrewK said:

Fargoman,

Replacing a window is really a very simple process.  The only real work is removing the old caulk.

I have found using just butyl tape works very well, requires no caulking and is a much cleaner installation.   

If you are anywhere near San Diego, I would be more than happy to help you with it.

Andrew

I concur.  I just replaced my bathroom window under warranty (the issue was a Lippert issue and not due to Oliver production).  Service sent me the new window, butyl rope and caulk.  Mike patiently walked me through the steps of removal, surface prep and reinstallation.  It went quite well and was very simple to both remove and install.  I was quite nervous before I started.  Now after having done it I wouldn't hesitate on performing the procedure.

[Fargoman]

Thanks for all the good responses. Two questions:

Are the windows secured in the hull only by the butyl tape adhesive?

What's your technique for smoothing the caulking bead when using silicone or hybrid caulks that require mineral spirits to clean?

I've only used caulking around the house that can be cleaned with soap and water, and use a wetted finger or a damp grouting sponge to smooth the caulk bead.

[Mountainman198]

31 minutes ago, Fargoman said:

Thanks for all the good responses. Two questions:

Are the windows secured in the hull only by the butyl tape adhesive?

What's your technique for smoothing the caulking bead when using silicone or hybrid caulks that require mineral spirits to clean?

I've only used caulking around the house that can be cleaned with soap and water, and use a wetted finger or a damp grouting sponge to smooth the caulk bead.

Assuming all windows are installed similarly as the bathroom window, the window is sealed on the outside by both butyl and caulk and secured to the hull by several screws from the inside which sandwich the hull between the inner and outer metal window frames.  Once these screws are removed from the inside, the inner frame comes off easily.  Best to have someone on the exterior holding the window in place as you remove the screws in case the butyl and caulk gives way and the window falls to the ground (mine was held tight by these two materials and necessitated the use of a plastic razor and a plastic putty knife on the exterior between the hull and frame to release the window from the hull).

If I recall, I cleaned the hull opening first with a plastic razor blade, followed by a microfiber cloth with mineral spirits, followed by another cloth and alcohol.  

The butyl rope was applied fully encircling and around the underside of the window lip.  When you place the new window in the opening the butyl compresses between the window frame and the hull, creating a hidden seal between the two.  Careful tightening of the screws holding the inside window frame compresses the butyl and draws the exterior window frame to the hull.

I used a dripless caulk gun and cut the nozzle very near the tip so it had a small, beveled opening. You only need a small bead of caulk around the window. Application did not require much caulk nor any smoothing.  I suppose you could use blue masking tape both on the hull and window frame, exposing only the area you wished to have caulk applied, then use your finger to smooth, removing tape before caulk dried.  If you are not used to caulking, I recommend practicing on the joint created by a couple of boards screwed together til you get the feel.  

[rich.dev]

On 10/29/2022 at 6:11 PM, Mountainman198 said:

and caulk

What type/brand caulk did they send you, could you send a pic? Thanks!

[Mountainman198]

10 hours ago, Rich.Dev said:

What type/brand caulk did they send you, could you send a pic? Thanks!

I don't recall and I am not near it right now or I would be happy to snap a pic and send it.  Give service a call and I am sure they will let you know.  They have been very responsive.

[rich.dev]

10 hours ago, Mountainman198 said:

I don't recall and I am not near it right now or I would be happy to snap a pic and send it.  Give service a call and I am sure they will let you know.  They have been very responsive.

Will do thanks

[Fargoman]

Two weeks ago I finally got around to installing the replacement rear window in my LE2. I had planned to do it after Christmas, but decided to wait until we had a warmer day (low 60's), thinking that the butyl tape that seals the window would compress more easily when tightening the self-tapping screws that hold the inner and outer window frames together.

It was definitely a two-person job. The hardest part was to properly align the inner frame screw holes with the slot in the outer frame that the self-tapping screws penetrate.  After placing the window assembly in the hull opening, I opened the sliding window so I could temporarily clamp the inner window frame in place while I fiddled with aligning the screw holes. When I was ready to install the self-tapping screws, my wife held the window assembly in place from the outside of the trailer so that I didn't push the window assembly out of the hull opening - the butyl tape would not have held the window assembly in place against the force needed to get the self-tapping screws started.

I waited a few days before caulking around the outer window frame to let the butyl tape compress more. I was able to tighten some of the self-tapping screws a bit more, and could see that the gap between the outer window flange and the hull had decreased a bit. I removed the original caulk around all the other windows (caulk on rear street-side window had yellowed within three weeks of delivery) so that all the windows would have the same type and age of sealant.

[Rivernerd]

Thanks for reporting your actual experience with the rear window replacement.  This will be very helpful for anyone who needs to do the same repair.