Walk-in Door Window Resealed

[Wayfinder]

Well, a long over due repair is finally complete.  For over a year now my door had leaked a bit if the rain hit that side of the camper.  Whoever makes those doors for Oliver really does NOT use much sealant on the window and plastic window frames (inner & outer).  I did "okay".  I used Butyl tape that I had on hand.  It made me feel like I was playing with Silly Putty again.  I used it liberally so I hope that will be the end of the leak for a while. 

The clean-up of the outside putty took a minute or three do do, but not bad.  It was a beautiful day out.

  

Here's also a short video of pealing off the old factory sealant.

 

[Patriot]

Nice work!
However it would have been an ideal time to install this! This is one of my top (5) favorite mods that I am really glad I did. You will see there are no screws used to secure the frame on the new model Ollies just a small clip to insert. Also the newer frames come with the sealant already attached to the frame. A thanks to @topgun2 for suggesting this mod!
 

 

[Wayfinder]

My trailer came already tinted, maybe because it was the 2016 demo unit, but if it breaks in the future, I will try it. Thanks. 

[Wayfinder]

Well the window is tight as a drum, but the door seal by the hinges on the other hand, OMG, might as well be a strainer.  New separate posting coming for that.  

[SeaDawg]

I like butyl tape, for windows. Good job.

[Wayfinder]

Unfortunately I found out tonight that it's leaking between the door frame and the hull. The entire door and frame needs to be pulled and resealed. Not looking forward to it. 

Also need to order the big seal/gasket under the awning from Oliver. Again, a pain and will take two people to remove the awning. 

[Wayfinder]

This might help get in those tight spots on the doors. 

[Wayfinder]

Also, here is where water is coming in from now. Between frame and hull. Yay. Only way to door right, is to pull the door. Looking on YouTube now to see if anyone has a similar issue on a fiberglass hull. If not, might be a YouTube video I should do myself.  Maybe I can get some advice from somebody at Oliver.

[mossemi]

11 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

Also need to order the big seal/gasket under the awning from Oliver. Again, a pain and will take two people to remove the awning. 

I removed my awning gasket because it caught every leaf, needle, acorn or anything else that falls out of the trees.  And I have never regretted that decision.  So I haven’t looked at that gasket in a long time, but I didn’t have to remove the awning to remove the gasket.  So I’m going to go out on a limb say that based on my limited experience, I don’t understand why you are going to remove the awning.  I know from some of your other posting’s, you’re not afraid of tackling the hard jobs.  Are you sure removing the awning needs to be done in order to replace the gasket?  If you have time, please take some pictures documenting the door removal and let us know how your did the job.

Mossey

[mossemi]

4 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

Maybe I can get some advice from somebody at Oliver.

That would be a great place for information, as well as the door manufacturer which I believe is Lippert.

Mossey

[Wayfinder]

@mossemiI was also considering removing that PITA gasket and put my extra gutter guard just over the door. I agree, that gasket is horrible and at least needs an area in the middle to release water and junk. Now you have me thinking. 

[SeaDawg]

1 hour ago, mossemi said:

That would be a great place for information, as well as the door manufacturer which I believe is Lippert.

Mossey

I agree. I've actually never had a door leak, nor heard of one, but if it has happened,  I'm sure Jason would have heard about it.

Lippert bought Hehr around 2018, i think. They should still support/have parts for a 2016 door. 

[Wayfinder]

I found one YouTube video where a Lippart door was replaced.  Doesn't look difficult at all.  I do however want to make sure I have the best Butyl Tape possible.  

Any suggestions or are they basically the same. 

I might make it into a YouTube video, so you all can laugh at me.... I mean give me constructive suggestions.  LOL

I have this stuff, but not supper impressed, yet.

Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape

 

[topgun2]

Dicor is not a "bad" brand.  Have you asked Oliver Service what they use?

If you talk "sweet" enough - perhaps they would send you enough to do the door?

Bill

[AndrewK]

Chris,

I have used Dicor BT-1834 on two windows, the Truma Aguago frame, the Atwood heater frame and the outlet covers with great success.

If you are applying it while it is cold, you won't find it to be as sticky as it is, when it is warm.  It also does not compress as well.

Andrew

[Wayfinder]

20 hours ago, AndrewK said:

Chris,

I have used Dicor BT-1834 on two windows, the Truma Aguago frame, the Atwood heater frame and the outlet covers with great success.

If you are applying it while it is cold, you won't find it to be as sticky as it, when it is warm.  It also does not compress as well.

Andrew

Good tip.  It sounds like you have had to reseal more items than I've heard of before.  I was wondering about that stickiness, or how it pulls apart with more "stringiness", is that a word?  I might try to put it in the refrigerator before putting it on the door frame, than, lit it warm up in the Georgia spring air before pressing it onto the hull.  Sounds legit to me.  Thanks @AndrewK 

[SeaDawg]

On 3/31/2023 at 1:22 PM, Wayfinder said:

I found one YouTube video where a Lippart door was replaced.  Doesn't look difficult at all.  I do however want to make sure I have the best Butyl Tape possible.  

Any suggestions or are they basically the same. 

I might make it into a YouTube video, so you all can laugh at me.... I mean give me constructive suggestions.  LOL

I have this stuff, but not supper impressed, yet.

Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape

 

Have you used it yet? We have. Many times. We use it for port, vent, window, and hatch bedding. It's pretty awesome stuff. Keep it in the fridge til you're ready to use. Lasts a long time, ( maybe forever?) in the garage fridge.

We "seal" the outside edges a day after cleanup with a plastic knife and mineral spirits, with a good caulk, to eliminate any uv degradation, and help with dirt collection. 

Butyl has been around a long time. Modern butyl is modified so it doesn't  "ooze" like the old days in heat. 

Don't skimp. Don't stretch it. It's flexible for curves, so ideal for hatches and vents, etc. 

It looks old school, because it pretty much is, but also tried and true. 

Dicor is a trusted brand.

[Wayfinder]

Beer fridge it will go!  LOL