Simple AGM to Lithium Conversion question(s)

[Hokieman]

10 hours ago, Danno and Donna said:

I need to re-check but I think the manufacture indicated no venting necessary

I’m assuming Seadawg suggested venting to interior for temperature stabilization.   Many owners have vented battery compartments to the basement, and some to the inner cabin.  This helps the batteries operate closer to their optimum range, not too hot, nor too cold.   You’ll notice a significant difference when monitoring your battery temps.  

[mountainoliver]

Because my lithium batteries don’t require ventilation (I don’t know if all lithium batteries are similar) I sealed the ventilation holes in the battery compartment door and insulated the door with 1/2 inch thick closed cell neoprene foam. The only ventilation into the basement area in my installation are the two 7/8ths +/- holes left over from moving the #6 cables to the inside. So far my battery compartment temperature stays very close to the basement temperature.

[Hokieman]

41 minutes ago, mountainoliver said:

Because my lithium batteries don’t require ventilation (I don’t know if all lithium batteries are similar) I sealed the ventilation holes in the battery compartment door and insulated the door with 1/2 inch thick closed cell neoprene foam.

Agreed, LifePOH batteries do not require ventilation as they do not generate gas.  My comment was intended to clear up what might be a misunderstanding by some readers.  Lead-acid batteries generate gases during charging which may vent into the battery compartment, these are corrosive and flammable.   That’s what the external vents in the door are for, and Oliver is required to put them there to meet RVIA standards.  SeaDawg recommended sealing the external vents, which many of us have done, along with extra insulation.  Venting into the basement isn’t required, as you have experienced, but it may help in temperature extremes, as many previous threads have discussed.   For example, parking with the street side in full sun in Arizona in the summer @ 115F ambient.   All I have done is cut two 2” holes in the sides of the battery box.  I’ve noticed it is cooler inside the battery box on very hot days with the street side in the sun.  

[mountainoliver]

I too was agreeing with you and just adding another point of reference supporting your statement. I’ve been putting off adding extra holes in my battery compartment for no particular reason. I guess just waiting to see if and when they become necessary for our situation. Although, I’ve been tempted to add some on several occasions. Even to the point of making a fixture to prevent me from inadvertently drilling through the dinette seat back or the pantry wall at the bed.

[SeaDawg]

Yes, @Hokieman and @mountainoliver, that's what I meant, but didn't make clear. 

With a minimal ip21 rating, I'd want to seal that door to the outside, for both dust and moisture, very carefully,  and if I needed venting for temp, I'd want it to be to the cleaner interior of the trailer.

Thank you both for helping me out. I appreciate it. You both read my mind.

 

[jd1923]

On 2/23/2024 at 9:52 PM, Danno and Donna said:

Hey JD ... yeah, would a preferred the original basic model as it would have been an easier fit in the existing tray ...

I'm thinking two of the smaller 300s when they run another Black Friday sale. Two sitting sideways will fit nicely with enough room left over to mount a DC-to-DC charger on the wall behind them, huh. It will be a great Christmas gift for us and the Oliver!

[Geronimo John]

On 2/24/2024 at 5:51 AM, Hokieman said:

All I have done is cut two 2” holes in the sides of the battery box.  I’ve noticed it is cooler inside the battery box on very hot days with the street side in the sun.  

I would love to see pic's of that.  One low and one high would facilitate natural convection.

GJ

[Hokieman]

5 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

I would love to see pic's of that.  One low and one high would facilitate natural convection.

I would be happy to oblige, but I parked the trailer in storage this morning and then drove home about 600 miles away.   I’ll try to remember to get pics when I go get it in a few months.   I recall I cut one hole (used 2” holesaw)  in the same spot on aft wall  where a battery cable had been routed through but now unused, while doing my Battleborn battery install.   The other 2” hole is on the forward wall, down lower I think.  I also cut several other 2” holes in bulkheads throughout the basement on street side and rear compartments to facilitate convective flow.   I’m still brainstorming future plans to introduce warm cabin air to basement in extreme cold, which might include small, quiet 12v blower fans.   We camped several nights this winter out West  in low teens with no freezing problems or battery issues.   Last night in mountains it was 24.   So I’m wondering if I need to worry much about additional mods,  as I’m not really planning on camping any colder than that.  

[SeaDawg]

1 hour ago, Hokieman said:

Last night in mountains it was 24.   So I’m wondering if I need to worry much about additional mods,  as I’m not really planning on camping any colder than that.  

For many of us, that's plenty cold.

Our much older 2008 is good into nighttime temps of high teens, if daytime is warmer.

I'm with you. I'll leave intended winter camping to others.

If and when we ever get lithium, I'll make sure I have heating for the batteries. I'm good with good blankets.

[GarryandKristi]

On 2/3/2024 at 11:24 PM, SeaDawg said:

I have, like many other old school trailers, 2 x 105 agm 12v marine batteries. So, 210 ah, total, marine deka/East penn group 31 batteries. I probably come close to your description above. 

We can get appreciable charge, when traveling.  We also have 400 watts of fixed solar, now, so less important, these days. But still important for those who don't have solar, and have lead acid/agm batteries. Level the front, with the jack, disconnect from the truck. With the plug dangling, not too hard to remember to reconnect in the morning....

Remembering to unplug from the tv is kind of ingrained, from old school days, so not a big deal. We're used to it. Many years of practice. 

As times change, and most people get lifepo4 batteries, Oliver may discontinue the charging wire. As may other manufacturers. We'll see. Times change. Batteries change. Practices change.

Just saying, for those of us without lifepo4 batteries, the charge wire is helpful .

PS, we live quite well, many months of camping each year, with 210 ah of battery power. We have learned power management.  We camp, don't have an inverter. 

Everyone has a different camping style. Mine is different from yours, I'm sure, and I'd never criticize yours. We each decide what is most important,  and work within our defined limits.

 

Agreed.  We actually exhausted our nearly 6 year old agms with 2 days of dry camping and to get the front jack lifted I had to plug in the 7 pin cable.  That did the trick and was easier than dragging out the generator.  It certainly offsets the refrigerator drain on DC setting while traveling between sites. Very glad we have the 3-way fridge to operate on propane while Dry camping.  Also glad we have a separate inverter and not the new inverter/charger in which everything has to be run through the inverter. Ours is a 2018 model. 

[Geronimo John]

On 4/6/2024 at 10:56 AM, GarryandKristi said:

Also glad we have a separate inverter and not the new inverter/charger in which everything has to be run through the inverter. Ours is a 2018 model. 

Ditto with our hull.  I really prefer having the Inverter and Converter units physically isolated.  Problem potential for a "double whammy" power outage is pretty much eliminated.    Also, when our the combined 120V Load Center/Converter fails, I'll replace it with two separate components.  This will reduce the potential of a Converter failure impacting the Load Center or the converse.  

Other energy redundancy options to consider: 

     Dual fuel/power refrigerators (120V and 12V) unit with Danfos compressor.

     Heat Pump vs. AC for second heat source (Plus having a cheap ole 1500 watt plug in heater).

     Converter, Solar, Litho's, DC to DC , and Generator charging systems.

     A second  120V auto transfer switch for the A/C (Serves as an installed spare should the primary fail too).

     Twin Furion power ports.  (A lower priority to the above.).

     Having an inexpensive 400 watt 12V to 120V converter with alligator clips on the 12V inputs.

     This one will ruffle some feathers:  Not having totally necessary electronic systems for controlling of power/energy that may put you electrically wise out of business from all power sources with a single lightening strike on the RV park electric poles.

     Having at least 50 feet of 12 AWG  ( plugged for 20 Amp draw) or 10 AWG power extension cords.  With an assortment of electrical adaptors.

     A 15 amp multi plug strip.

     Saran wrap to weather proof the above two items should rain be expected.

What other redundancy energy ideas can we think of?

GJ