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That sounds dangerous and I could fry something; yes?

@routlaw, We previously had Dometic/Seitz awning style plexiglass windows in another camper that we liked. Most folks here want glass. Yep, Lippert 3000 FVD with two operating windows has a maximum size up to 72X30. The frameless glass dark windows looks really good on an Oliver, always liked having the ability to open the Dometic windows during light rain, too. Like I said, it's going to be interesting to see Oliver's retrofit. I contacted Oliver about window retrofits and they said we would all be notified at the same time when available. 🙂

A generator. There is another option in a pinch. You can use the Bypass switch on your EMS control panel (ours is in the "attic" over the bed). This will keep the EMS from blocking power from the "ungrounded" generator, but it will also remove all protection provided by the EMS. However, power from the Bluetti is already supposed to be clean, right?

I think there may be a blown reverse polarity fuse: from ai search In an Oliver Legacy Elite I trailer, a reverse battery fuse (often labeled as a reverse polarity fuse) acts as a sacrificial safety shield to protect the trailer's electrical system if the house batteries are connected backward. [1, 2] How It Works Instant Disconnection: If the positive and negative battery cables are accidentally swapped during installation, a massive surge flows backward. The reverse polarity fuses instantly blow to break the circuit. [1, 3] Downstream Component Protection: By blowing immediately, they stop the reverse current from frying sensitive onboard electronics, such as the WFCO power converter, the Xantrex or Freedom XC inverter, circuit boards, and 12V appliances. [1, 2, 3] What Happens When It Blows? No 12V DC Power: The trailer will immediately lose all 12-volt battery power (lights, water pump, jack, etc.). No Battery Charging: Even if you plug the trailer into shore power, the Oliver power converter will not charge the house batteries because the path between them is physically blocked by the blown fuses. [1, 2, 4, 5] Where to Find It In the Oliver Elite I, these are typically two high-amperage (usually 30A or 40A) blade fuses located directly on the face or side of the main 12V DC distribution panel/power center. They sit slightly separated from the smaller individual branch circuit fuses. [1, 2, 3, 4] If you need to replace them, ensure the battery cables are corrected first, or the new fuses will pop instantly upon contact. [1, 2] If you are currently troubleshooting an electrical issue, please share: Are you getting power from shore power but not the battery? Have you recently swapped or disconnected your batteries? Are there any error codes showing on your solar controller or inverter display? AI can make mistakes, so double-check responses

None of the 12v items work? Lights, fan, USB outlets?

The screen grab below illustrates the window I was referring to, however once they become this wide there is a vertical split cut in half with two operating windows. Looks at 3000 FVD

@rideandfly I was looking at a different model that allowed a larger size but I see your point. I totally agree about frameless canopy windows and would much prefer those. One of the complaints about these 300 series from Lippert is they only open about 3 inches from the bottom but have seen videos where people made modifications which allow about 4-6 inches of total venting. I still prefer the windows we had on our T@b. That style of window seems to have evolved and now made by a few different manufacturers but non of them are made wide enough to fit the Oliver existing window rough openings. The largest I have seen has been approximately 36-39 inches albeit in metric values.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.bluettipower.com/collections/solar-generators%3Fsrsltid%3DAfmBOorYwy_9QQeUU5f8w-gieqaqxkTNeuxvTgwk7-IXFxfPsFHY-ShT&ved=2ahUKEwiZwsmvkJKVAxXDmisGHevaGgUQFnoECBsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1JV2q4OjzofNCgrtpnFEQd

Into an outlet in the Oliver or in the generator?

I've never heard of a Blueitti. However there are a similar issues with a Jackery. They have what's called a floating neutral. Also common in some generators. So yes, a floating neutral requires a neutral to ground bonding plug. Otherwise the Electrical Management System (EMS) will see it as an open ground. But there is a problem. Many (if not all) of these power packs have no reference to ground what-so-ever. So the "u-ground" pin hole of the receptacle is not connected to anything, it's just an open hole. So a neutral to ground bonding plug wouldn't connect to anything in the ground pin hole, and it won't work. Now that I've confused everyone, including myself, there is a bypass trick. Use a 1-outlet to 3-outlet adapter, or an extension cord with a "Wye" that provides 3 extra outlets to plug into. Plug the neutral to ground bonding plug into one the extra outlets to effectively bond the neutral and ground... despite there being no ground on the power pack. Cool huh. This is one of many reasons to have a $10 plug-in circuit tester, the ones with three lights that show various conditions such as open grounds. I recommend you test all circuits when rigging such power supplies. Cheers! Geoff

Here's the Lippert information I'm looking at, 3000 FV minimum size 12X12 and maximum size 36X30: I like canopy style frameless windows instead sliding windows, looking forward to see what Oliver retrofits older trailers with.

I needed to do so with my Champion generator.

I want to charge my Oliver with Blueitti (sp?) battery "solar generator". Is it correct that I need to plug a "ground neutral plug" in one of the Bluetti outlets to make it work correctly?

Have an elite1 with just a charger. House power cord came disconnected and drained AGM batter totally dead. Was able to recharge it with a commercial charger and now holds 12.5 volts but, I have no power for 12 volts items. I checked the power coming in from the battery and I get power to the bus bar and after that, I'm lost to where to trace for the lost of power. The charger is working because everything is working when useing 115 volts. Can anyone recommend where I should be looking for somekind of breaker I can't seem to find. No power going to the 12v fuse box either. Appreciate any help here....

Batten down the hatches tonight up there on the Parkway - there is a bit of rain and wind coming up from the southwest over night. Bill

Perhaps I am reading the chart incorrectly but it appears you could order a 48x20 as the smallest vertical dimension. It probably wouldn't be too difficult to cut an inch on the top and bottom away from existing cabin to accommodate the slightly larger vertical size.

We met Oliver owner “Rob” from Florida at Manzanita Lake in California! Not many Olivers in these parts and it was a thrill to meet you! I was sorry we didn’t get a chance to chat with the wives together. Our camping group was demanding, and then you were gone. I didn’t find your profile on the forum, so here’s a public shout-out, and I hope your trip was great! Cheers! Geoff and Tanya

It does appear they have made changes to these over the years and perhaps even more than what is readily apparent with the upside weep holes with black plugs that don't work for squat anyway. Have also looked for replacement 8800 series but they appear to be unobtanium anymore or at least in the size we need and I certainly would not want black frames. No way would I cough up $987 a piece for this flawed design, $230 maybe. The 300 FV series looks much more promising as replacements IMHO. Regarding the 8800 series, anyone can take a garden hose to mimic even a light shower if they have the correct hose nozzle by shooting the water up gently toward the top of the camper allowing the water drain down with some water hitting the windows directly. One can actually watch the water flowing into the weep holes due to the 8º upward tilt. Or you can wait till the next shower put your raincoat on and do the same in real time with the same results as I have. The only way to fix this would be create a miniature awning or flashing over the weep holes though I am not sure how practical this would be, but it might solve the issue… sort of. Amazed you can hit them with a pressure washer, not something I would ever attempt in their current state.

Guessing the 3000FV is so expensive because Oliver's 48X18 is much wider than their 3000FV maximum listed size of 36X30. It's going to be interesting to see how Oliver retrofits older trailers. https://corporate.lippert.com/products/rv/windows

I might just take the thing completely off. Watched a couple of videos earlier illustrating how to change the fabric, doesn't look to be a big deal other than the height we have to work at. Might be easier to do this at a lower height as the video shows.

Wow! Select the 48x22" window on the Lippert website link I copied above, click Add to Cart, it comes to $230. This number seems very reasonable and what you were quoted for a custom 14x18" size seems outrageous! I wrote above "over $1000 to replace them all" when I was looking at the $230 number. $987 each would not be a direction worth going. BTW, ours are mounted in mirrored directions, left to right, moveable window to the rear, vents/weep holes always down. The outer frame must disconnect from the window assembly somehow to allow for this. Our windows are different from the time of hulls 70-75, to late 2015 when our 2016 model was built.

Hi all I'm not sure if I did or not. Possibly 3M paint protection film as I had some lying around. I'll have to check. The hitch receiver is not bare metal, btw. You suggestions sound good. Tim

We had two leaks coming out at the windows, but in both cases the source of the leak was above each window. Oliver sign on the rear window and street side exterior light over the dinette window were the causes of our leaks. It was a easy fix on the exterior light leak, but the Oliver Sign probably took 1 1/2 days to remove the sign, clean and reseal the sign. Where we store Ollie, we have to tape the bottom window drains while stored, rubber plugs are installed in the top, or Mud Daubers will plug the bottom window drain channels. These 8800 windows with drains top & bottom could be reversed during installation for the window glass to open in the opposite direction. Out of curiosity I contacted Lippert to see what they charge for Lippert frameless 3000 FV 48 X 18 with screen window assembly, they only come with black frames, Retail $986.95. The interior black frame for this window cost Retail $44.95. Download the flyer to see the 3000FV windows in the following link below 3000 windows. https://corporate.lippert.com/products/rv/windows I'm waiting to see what retrofits Oliver will be offering on the frameless windows, not in a hurry for now, just curious..

Been camping this week at Mt. Pisgah Campground NC @ 5,000' on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Some mornings were in the 50s and highs 60s to 70s. Their campsites do not have water or electricity, with the Federal Senior card $15 per night. They have hot showers. When it's hot and humid in the lower elevations, we head to Mt. Pisgah campground to cool off without using AC system. There are plenty of places to hike and a drive on the BRP is always nice, too.

That is kept very clean by camp hosts from Missouri. It is also the only pit toilet I've ever been in that has a separate chair and small rug that can be used for changing cloths, holding a bag (so you don't have to put it on the floor, holding a jacket and/or other stuff. Hopefully those camp hosts are still there. Bill