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We do the same with the “Dustbuster” to pick up the loose dirt and grit and various grass clippings and such. Since we have a cat box crammed under the dinette, this is the prime spot for kitty litter that refuses to stay where it belongs. I’d be leery of anything that sounds like “wash and wax all” on floors. I had a previous roommate who thought that Pledge was great for shining up wood floors. It it - but it makes them into ice rinks if you try to stop or change direction wearing socks…

As @Ronbrink and @Galileo stated. We have a small rechargeable handheld vacuum that we use every couple of days to pick up most of the dirt. After that, a quick wipe down with a cloth sprayed with "Wash and Wax All" keeps things clean. So far, it's working well for us. If anything stubborn remains, we use a little toothbrush or a Q-tip to tackle it, for us this has been rare.

I haven't had any issues with unplugging yet, but if I did I'd probably just replace the plug and socket with a twist-lock type.

I watched the OTT video on the 2027 model. It turned my stomach in disappointment. Can't stand the BLACK framed windows that look like eyesores to the interior. But worse than that... What educated buyer cares about fancy options when the basics are substandard? OTT is making design changes in their Hohenwald bubble when all they need to do is read a few threads on the forum they provide! It is a lot of reading, but OTT Management please start by reading the 37-page thread "Made in USA Leaf Springs." Dexter 1750 LB springs have been failing forever and they still mount them? Ten years ago, they mounted Michelin LT Agilis tires on 16" HD rims, now you get ST tires on 15" rims, and more recently some China Cr@p tires? 🤣 They should lose OPTIFUSE breakers and source something with quality. Lose Xantrex over the much-preferred Victron products. I'll give them one good choice in dropping Truma! All Jason talked about was the solar awning, made by another manufacturer, just bolted on by OTT. He said it works better in the morning, facing the sun, but then I'd have to get my tired butt up and out to erect it. You'd also have to think about sun direction when parking in addition to leveling! What if the level spot has no sun exposure in that direction? We've only used our awning 5-6 times in 3 years. They could put 600W solar on the roof with a directional mechanism. Now that would be useful! Why after 10+ years are they still mounting switches, fuses, breakers and water valves under the beds. I fixed all that after the fact, but it would be better if they would do the right things from the start! 😎 Why are there over 40K posts in the Mechanical & Technical Tips and Ollie Modifications forums alone? Better design would lead to less need for maintenance and modification of our hulls.

This was sensible on a cost basis 5 years ago and before. LiFePO4 batteries used to be expensive. Today you get far more usable Ah/$ going with LiFePO4 batteries over 4 "golf cart batteries!" Watering batteries doesn't have to be a thing anymore, OMG! 🤣 But what do I know? I really dislike connecting to shore power. With our recent upgrades, we travel for weeks without the need to plug in! Our DC-DC charger alone allows us to produce more Ahs in 5 hours towing than you have in your entire system after being plugged in all night, and that's if your batteries were brand new. Really, take a good look at LiFePO4 today! You'll save money outright on an Ah/$ basis. When you figure 10-year vs. 5-year life, the savings truly double! Lead acid only belongs in the tow vehicle as a starter battery, not anymore for deep-cycle storage.

Hey guys, I see this thread is two years in the past, but wondered what the final outcome was and to see if my leak issue is related. Barring the possibility of @Cameron ‘s leak coming from some remote location and following wires to where it manifests itself, I was thinking it -could- be a simpler but more difficult to fix problem. If I read @Cameron’s description right, it sounds like leak is directly under the center post/divider of the window. To me, that points an accusing finger at the screw that holds the center post to the frame at top and bottom. I just noticed these screws on my window and got a very bad feeling about this. (To paraphrase George Lucas) That screw penetrates the lower part of the window frame and -if- that screw isn’t sealed well, it’s ab invitation to leak water into the hull regardless of how clean your window tracks are. What I’d LOVE to know - or see - is if anybody who has pulled out their windows can attest to how that screw is sealed. As I think my leak is “new” on a 5 year old trailer with 10’s of thousands of miles in it, between vibration and corrosion between dissimilar metals, that seal between the screw may have failed. Can anybody out there attest to what this area of the widow frame looks like? If that screw is reliably sealed? Id be willing to bet that IF that seal has failed, the window will have to come out as it will be about impossible to clean and reseal the area.

Since they're putting Alcan's on the new X23 models, maybe they'll offer that same upgrade to anyone ordering a standard model?

Shades of Sephen King. Will these tires become a sequel to Christine?

I don’t think we’ve had our Norcold fridge set for “auto” fall back to the DC mode. (Yet) My understanding is that running the fridge on DC is terribly inefficient. (I guess that’s why you got to toss your old AGMs?) I don’t need the expense of replacing my batteries yet - but I suppose at 5 years - I need to be planning for that day. Its really pretty rare that we use our batteries at all, so I doubt they’ve ever been deeply discharged. I think keeping the USB outlets and other vampire loads powered up for a few hours at a time between shore power is about it. I think with our mission - at least so far - the most sensible option for me is just replacing the four 6 volt wet cells with a good quality equivalent. I’d likely go with a Delco Voyager as I’ve had good experience with them before.

....And springs!!

Wire nuts?! Yikes. My SOP for this kind of hard wiring would be soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. Using a higher quality receptacle for the fridge is certainly an option. Pretty sure even Leviton is made in China these days… As I mentioned, that the battery charger plugs into a single snap-in socket on the back of the A/C breaker box, a high-quality replacement may be difficult to source. Just as an aside that drives home the point of how much vibration that the trailer and everything in it is subject to, I noticed a screw holding the rain gutter above the door had backed out by about a cm. I guess going over the whole trailer and tightening things back up is just one of those things that needs to be done periodically.

I think I’ve seen the tie-wrap trick somewhere - perhaps even on the fridge plug. If that’s where I saw it, then it slipped off. I suppose that’s one band-aid that stands a chance of working. On the battery charger outlet/plug, if there’s room I could use a couple of the adhesive tie-wrap mounts to provide a place to anchor the tie-wraps. Still, the only permanent, craftsmanlike repair is to cut off the plugs and hard wire the devices. I suppose that will void the warranty - but at 4-5 years old - I doubt there’s much warranty left if any.

Though I’ve cleaned and dried out the hole where this screw/bumper go, and re-installed it with some sealant, I won’t know until the next rain if it fixes the problem. Upon looking closely at the window, I discovered that the center muntin (divider between the fixed and moveable window) is held in place by screws through the bottom - and I assume - top of the window frame. It’s just as likely that the screw in the bottom of the window frame is a source for the leak as this number. If that turns out to be the case, the whole window will likely need to come out to remove, clean, seal, and re-install the window. That should be fun (not).

UPDATE: Thanks to all who have offered tips, tricks, ideas and advice. I have ordered most of the equipment to finally assess the wiring. It's extremely hot in Texas -- so hot that the Parks are closing trails. I plan to continue this work of investigating and hopefully fixing when I get to New Mexico, where I will be at higher elevation (cooler) and in one place for a while.

New Will Prowse YouTube Video is out. I can't get it loaded. Here is the YouTube post page.

Yes, they are. There's a long history of people reporting sudden, catastrophic failures of Castle Rock tires. One of our previous trailers came with them and we replaced them before our first trip. I advise anyone who gets an Oliver wearing Castle Rock tires to replace them immediately with a quality trailer tire like Goodyear Endurance. We also had very good luck with Maxxis M8008 ST tires. Ran those on two or our trailers for years and many miles after Goodyear started having problems with their Marathon trailer tires (which they later replaced with the improved Endurance).

On my 2020 OLEll the microwave is plugged directing into the GFCI outlet located on the Xantrex inverter/charger. It trips occasionally for unknown reason(s) and the first place I go when power is lost. Upon reset an operable microwave indicates AC throughout the unit.

I first vacuum then simply crawl around on my knees and use Clorox disinfecting wipes along these dirty edges. Sometimes it takes pressure with the wadded up wipes, but with persistence they become clean. While down I also use the wipes to ‘mop’ the floor, which is generally done with a Swifter mop. But the Swifter alone will leave debris and grunge along the edges and thus, periodic deep clean with said wipes is needed. That said, I’m lucky to only have a couple spots of the adhesive visible below the shower door, which is only slightly yellowish in appearance and not a worry. I like @topgun2’s acetone idea, but only for the adhesive removal if it eventually becomes too unsightly.

Many have secured the Norcold AC plug to duplex outlet under the sink with a tie-wrap and perhaps same could be done with the charger plug, as well. However, that may not be as easy due to the ‘snap in’ feature of that inlet, as described. Perhaps the “10-12” unsupported run of power cord” could be secured with a tie-wrap in such a manner as to better secure that connection. In looking at my 2020 OLEll, it appears to be hardwired into the AC panel box with a typical clamp style strain relief fastener and likely hardwired to a main breaker.

My experience....with our 2022 LE2 Norcold I left my setting on auto while boondocking and my LP ran out. The result was an automatic switch to DC while we were away for 2 days. On a good note, with help from Steve L. and JD I got to throw away my 4 6v agms and switch to 600 ahs worth of Epoch Lithuims. Albeit an expensive lesson I couldn't be happier that it happened :)

Nope, and these tires are on a list of "China Bomb Tires", thinner sidewalls, tread delamination, and blowouts

Please tell me you're kidding.

Wow! Really? Can this be true? Six years ago, I purchased an old 12’ flatbed trailer to haul our dirt bikes and SxS. Dexter tandem axle 7K, same suspension as OEM Oliver. I planned to restore it, new wiring, lights, paint frame, new flooring, add brakes to the rear axle, etc. OMG, It had China tires! I quickly purchased a set of the US made Goodyear Endurance ST tires. Listed the old tires on Craig’s. Sold the set for $100 because I didn’t want to take any more money from anybody. I explained twice to the new owner, these are not safe for highway use! He was OK in using them for a landscape trailer. John, please explain to your friend he needs to buy new tires! Anybody taking possession of a new Oliver, let OTT know you’ll not accept delivery with those cheap tires! 🙃 Glad most of us have 16” rims with LT tires mounted!

Best built camper in the market... riding on Chinese steel springs and Chinese tires? .

Not replace, but repair the connection so it cannot come off again. Is it for the inverter/charger? So a 110V plug like the fridge? If so, it’s not the plug but a cheap outlet receptacle. That could be replaced with a Leviton or a quality outlet not Made in you know where! Cheesy, yes! OTT wired the outputs on our inverter using a residential junction box and wire nuts! 🤣 Hardwire? I’d do that in a heartbeat! 😎