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This morning while doing a full systems ‘go’ inspection on Hull #634 XPLOR, I discovered when I configured the Truma water heater valve to the ON position, an impressive stream of water shot directly out of the Truma filter exterior housing. After a little troubleshooting, I removed the filter and discovered that inside the filter housing, a small black round piece of plastic had blown out of the filter housing. This rendered the filter useless. We have had 5.5 years of trouble-free service from our tankless Truma and this was a first. We like our Aqua Go. I am posting this in the event anyone should have the same issue with their Truma filter. I have the optional antifreeze filter which works in a pinch as a back up. If you do not have the optional antifreeze filter as a back up, you will be stuck like Chuck with no hot water. In order for the Aqua Go to work, it has to have the filter element. I contacted Oliver Service and ordered a OEM replacement and an extra back filter up of the exact one you see in the below pics. “Two is one and one is none.” 🫡🇺🇸 Replacement filters are $95.00 plus shipping. Thank you Mike Sharpe for getting my new filters shipped out. The tiny piece of plastic that broke loose. Here is the filter that failed. You should not be able to look through your filter. The arrow points to where this tiny piece blew out. There is no way to repair it. I pass this on, so that if you have this issue you can make the repair.

Tim, Oliver has gone to a newer Awning style window which opens at 90 degrees. It’s insulated and glass. I don’t have any additional info right now. I feel sure Oliver Service could provide you with more details. Cheers, Patriot

Keep working with the folks at Oliver. It sounds like they understand where you are coming from and, in my experience, they will do everything that they can to get you to where you want to be. If for any reason this situation doesn't seem to be progressing towards your desired end, I would not hesitate to get Jason Essary involved. And, if that doesn't work then I'd write a note to Scott Oliver telling him (respectfully) the situation and request his help in getting your Ollie the way you want it. Be sure to let us know how this situation is resolved for you. Bill

Not powering up is NOT the same thing as it taking too many watts overloading an inverter! Given it "does not come on" (at all), it's simply not wired to a circuit supplied by the inverter. If an appliance wired to the inverter pulls too much amperage, your inverter will start making noise and will shut down when overloaded, but it certainly will "come on." What were they thinking at OTT! And BTW, a 2000W inverter by definition will run an 1800W appliance! Given the True Induction cooktop is rated at 1800W, and it's a 2-burner cooktop, then each burner is rated at 900W. If OTT had wired the cooktop properly, you could certainly heat up water for coffee on one (1) burner and run the fridge at the same time! You will be well under 2000W! 🤣 Get OTT to wire this properly! I would just DIY, as I suggested in an earlier post, but you have to be concerned of warranty issues. We have the LP cooktop of course, but like Bill mentioned also have an induction cooktop that we plug in indoors or out. We also do not use our LP stove stove to heat coffee water (unless battery SOC is LOW). We love these products! 😎 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Aigostar-Eve-Electric-Cordless-Boiling/dp/B07D3R7RZT/ https://www.amazon.com/Melitta-Pour-Over-Coffee-Stainless-Filters/dp/B0CSQLHFW9/

I'm sure Oliver will resolve this cook-top issue, under warranty. We're like Mike & Carol, our propane cook-top has been very reliable. We use a portable 120V induction cook-top, too.

Thanks, Galway Girl, for the link to your solar panel kit and all the details. I found it very informative. Unfortunately, the cable is currently unavailable.

Yes, the cover has worked out very well. One of the nicest features is that there is a zipped door panel that allows access to the trailer when the cover is on which works great when checking on or working on the trailer during the winter.

The propane cook top has been very reliable and works well for us.

Looks like you also got a branded cover add-on too. That’s nice, I need to get a cover

It’s just a normal roller shade, nothing unique to Oliver, so doing a general web search on roller shades might help. Mine are working fine but I think (remembering to when I’ve used them before) if it’s kinda stuck just pull down to the bottom of the window to reset the mechanism. Regarding “the others retract to at least 3/4 of the way up” - I think you mean they leave 1/4 hanging when fully retracted? That’s not right, all of mine only leave an inch or two of the shade hanging. Anyhow so far been trouble free for me. The design has been around forever, seems like an early 20th century invention, anyhow should be easy to work with. No, interesting it has an even longer history

Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I haven’t updated sooner. We have been boondocking for several days. I have been in communication with support at Oliver. At first they didn’t understand why it wasn’t working. As they investigated they reported that it appears that the stovetop does pull 1800 w and overloads the 2000 w inverter. The only other major draw is the refrigerator. Even when I turn that off, the stovetop does not come on. I stopped at a Bass Pro the first day to pick up a small 2 burner propane stove so we could at least have coffee in the morning. Not what I was planning when camping. If I had known I would have asked for the propane stove instead of the induction stove. We have the Platinum pkg and I did ask sales at the dealer if people liked the induction stove and if I could use it boondocking. Answer was that it works. I noticed that the induction cooktop comes standard on the Legacy 2026. This isn’t working for us as designed. I have asked for this to be resolved…proper inverter set up or a propane stove retro fit. If you do much camping at Harvest Hosts, BLM, National Forrest, National Parks, etc. w/o hookups, it is a problem unless you run a generator. When we return from our travels we will see where Oliver lands on this. They are considering possible “upgrades” to our camper. I wouldn't see a resolution as upgrades, but will find out. When hooked up to shore power, the cooktop works great. But so far for us, most of our trip, was making coffee or cooking outside on a portable propane stove.

https://res.cloudinary.com/lci-cloudinary/image/upload/v1734451736/Design Team/Sell Sheets/Lippert_-_Sell_Sheet_-_3000_Series_Windows_OEM_-_2023002334-WEB.pdf https://corporate.lippert.com/products/rv/windows For all the people interested in these other windows, link above. Not easy to fine.

Getting back to this: Looking at the Lippert.com website, I do not see awning-style windows, just the 8800 series sliding windows. Are we sure the manufacturer is Lippert? Are they OEM only? Tim

Thank you Galway Girl for input from your actual experience! Very helpful!

I had this happen and found that one of the spade connections at the pump had come loose. I crimped the spade connection for a tighter fit, reinstalled, all good. A few others have experienced this, as well; simple fix!

Got this working yesterday, using the screws supplied with the light on top and hardware I had in the shop to attach the bottoms. It looked hodgepodge today. I really should fab a proper bracket, but for now I just wanted to fix its appearance. Went to the local HW store and got four short 4mm countersink screws and two Nylok nuts and washers. I had to countersink the brackets further to get the screws flush. The assembly is much better, but now that the light is taller, I noticed two things. The base bracket looks cheap now that you can fully see it. And the height is right at the belly line where the hulls meet, so visually it's not good. It looked better shorter, but now the light is where you need it. If I was to do this again, first I would use the great idea @Steph and Dud B made above; to grab power and use the light switch on the jack. Second I would fab a proper bracket a bit shorter than this one and push it forward a couple inches to get the required angle. Then it's not up against the hull belly line and will look better. It's too late for me re the first idea, but I'll do the latter when I source the right stainless steel stock. Looks like one of those Star Wars robots! It's all the light we'll need to hitch-up and load or unload the truck in the dark when necessary. We now have proper exterior lighting on all four sides! 😎

Thanks so much @Galway Girl. I appreciate the information. I have already submitted tickets and called Oliver. I will be on the phone with Truma first thing Monday morning. Bob

As an aside...while Truma is very clear that they only want their technicians doing any updates or changes...I believe Oliver did a bunch of installation of new burner units . Be sure to turn in a "ticket" to both Oliver and Truma. See my PM for some more suggestions. CS

Please read my detailed report that I sent in on this topic attached....I've had truma's replace 3 times. First potential cause - Truma didn't properly tighten the brass fittings internally that feed the burner assembly. Second potential cause - Truma didn't crimp the burner tube assembly correctly, and with travel they rattle out (the burner tubes are like in a bar-b-q and can fall off which causes raw gas to be injected into the burner area for explosive ignition instead of gentle start.) This blog post has 3 goals and was SENT to NHTSA for evidence of why Truma needs to do something to fix their defective mfg process. 1) List symptoms we experienced with our Truma and use photos to illustrate the 3 firebox events. 2) Describe 2 different Truma reported manufacturing defects and show photos illustrating those issues. 3) Describe the in field solutions for each of the 2 manufacturing issues. 4) Show a pictures of the current Truma Burner Unit with all Manufacturing updates in place. The attached PDF is in full detail with picture of what is likely the issue or issues causing explosive ignition. Truma Issues.pdf Hope that helps...remember...you need to report this to both Oliver and Truma in order to get any warranty coverage. Craig Short

@Snackchaser and @jd1923 Appreciate your constructive advice. Looking forward to wiring & testing the unit Monday! 😎

Our old Furrion jumbo heads sure are ugly! Your new iRV62 looks sooooo much better, even with the large faceplate which has a clean look! Excellent work cutting out the plastic sheet plus the aluminum sheet for added strength. The wiring should be the easy part. You're 90% there! 😎

I appreciate that. I have opened a ticket and sent a copy of the video to Mike Sharpe. I checked and there are a couple of Truma authorized service centers near where we are (Buffalo/Rochester area). Thanks for weighing in on a Saturday night. Bob

I’m sorry that this is happening and during a weekend to boot. Open a service ticket and see if you can send that video. In any event you’ll have to find an authorized Truma service facility to replace your unit. Maybe get the unit replaced now and take a chance on getting reimbursed after the repair?

Oliver has told me repeatedly that my water heater was not part of the recall. I have had numerous issues but this one is the most serious.

Looks like the burner has fallen apart. I thought that was an ongoing recall for this unfortunately all to common issue. I believe Truma says in this case not to use the water heater. Hopefully someone who has a Truma and has gone through the recall process can help.