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And I see my comment got you to update your profile page! CONGRATULATIONS to you on your new Oliver! 😂 Thank so much for the pictures and advise, much appreciated! Thank you @srthomsen and @FloraFauna too! All feedback is helpful. Steve, I also like seeing your installation pics. You installation looks very clean, would be even better with the wall mount which I'm leaning towards. The piping on mine would go vertically like in yours and then T at the top for the two rooms. I guess I better plan on that electrical shut-off box!
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Sorry to hear this and more so because I really like the design of your rear toolbox! I like how it has cabinet doors, opening to the rear, allowing the surface to be a tie-down area or spare work table. The boxes with hinged tops do not allow for such. I think about this every time I read a related post. I don't need one with an 8 ft open truck bed, but if I did... I would first remove the fiberglass cover and spare tire. Then mount the spare in the back left corner of the TV bed using a simple spare tire mount available on eTrailer and elsewhere. The cover would become a new garage ornament, a conversation piece! 🤣 This would delete a lot of rear weight which is the most important issue with adding weight to the rear. Ever LB in back lightens the trailer tongue weight and the Oliver with 8-9% tongue weight is already a towing safety issue. Very few Oliver owners seem to be concerned re this matter. With the spare gone, a custom cargo box could be +/- 10" close to the hull. This also helps the weight issue (shorter lever arm). Maybe you can move the spare and still use your awesome toolbox. Later mount the box pulled up closer to center. If there's no room in the truck bed, the spare tire could be frame-mounted on the streetside of the doghouse using the same standard bracket. 😎
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Agree, these are not very helpful. First where they touch is lower than where the frame would touch, so you will bottom more often. Also, if too much pressure is exerted, then what Dudley wrote. Application for skid rollers is for a trailer with very thick steel frames like Toy Haulers or car haulers. I would not expect them to play well with the relatively soft Oliver aluminum frame.
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I believe going from from an Under- to Over-slung suspension adds quite a bit more than 2" but you've done this on another trailer and I have not. When I study this simple graphic focused on the top of the axle, it appears the top of the axle drops 1) the 3" diameter of the axle plus the ~2" height of the leaf pack. This adds to about 5" for the Oliver. Then Bill posted a picture above that looks about 5" taller and the link supplied wrote re an Under- to Over-slung suspension change. (Graphic posted again for ease of viewing.)
- Today
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If you can't read the print on the unit label and you are interested, dm to me and I can provide details. The unit currently runs on 240V but I am currently converting my place to 3-phase and then it will run on 208v single phase. It's currently on a 30 amp circuit because of what was on the circuit before but I seem to recall it will run on a 20 amp circuit.
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FloraFauna started following Mini Split A/C for Home
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John, I did not install it myself so I will be of limited help. I went with a minisplit for my shop and use a wood stove when temps here drop below what is optimal for the minisplit. But I love the unit. Super quiet inside and out. A very convenient option for heating in transitional season temperatures when it's just not worth firing up the wood stove. Of course the cooling function works well too. I have a larger heat pump on my house again for ac and transitional weather heating. But like in the shop, I have a gas boiler for when it really gets cold. Its not that the heat pump and minisplit won't heat in cold weather but rather they are not my most efficient option in cold weather. Of course your climate is a different situation.
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Enclosed Aluminum Box Front Mount
Wandering Sagebrush replied to Tim and Christie's topic in Ollie Modifications
A lesson learned. As much as I like the storage box on our Ollie, it will never go back on the trailer. We are planning on venturing into some rougher country later this year, so I thought I’d check the spare. Long story, short… it took over two hours to get the box disconnected. I had to remove the box from the aluminum frame, then take many many strokes with a dead blow hammer to get the frame out. I can’t imagine doing that on the road. The good news is the tire still had over 60 PSI. The bad news is my back is sore. -
603 Mike joined the community
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Welcome from another 2019 owner (in Washington State) . Craig
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zzspiral joined the community
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Jim T joined the community
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Understood, valid concern; much the same forces from dragging the frame on the pavement, but perhaps with less resistance. I would suggest the OP contact Oliver for their take on the matter. Another solution may be to lower the hitch ball and thus, raise the rear a bit for better clearance prior to backing up or driving down a steep drive. Just a thought.
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In approx 2018-2019 BE (before oliver) we lived in the Coachella Valley in S. California. Summers were routinely 110-120 for months at a time. I was down there trying to get the house ready for our move and spent a lot of time making a bunch of tables for the new home. At night because it was by 10pm ONLY 100. We installed a minisplit in the uninsulated garage and the mini-split would easily knock down the air temp form 100 to 80 withot breathing hard. That said, I can't recall the brand however we did pay approx $3800 for the system installed. After procurring a permit, the installation took one day.
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A former Moderator and Oliver owner is/was renowned for relatively extreme mods to his Ollie. One of these mods occurred during construction where he had requested Oliver raise his Oliver to get more ground clearance - primarily for off-roading purposes. Someone here on the Forum might still have more pictures of this Oliver. Once the Oliver was "lifted" it was decided (by all concerned) that this would cause the trailer to be too top heavy and/or would impact the road handling of the trailer adversely. Therefore, it was returned to the original design. The trailer's name was Snowball and the Forum name of the owner was Overland. Bill p.s. Here's Overland's discussion of his "attempted" lift.
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We stayed at Brookings and Tillamook. Loved it. Welcome to the family. Arkansas state parks are great if they fit your TN travel plans.
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The problem with this is that it puts a reverse stressor on the trailer frame. Instead of bearing a load (trailer body) pressing down from above, when the rollers are dragged on the pavement they push up on the rear frame of the trailer and carry part of the load usually carried by the axles. This can bend a trailer frame and cause damage to the body (although I would think a molded fiberglass body is stronger then other RVs).
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I have seen videos where skid rollers are mounted at the rear of a travel trailer to keep the bumper/under carriage from scraping on steep driveways or road grades; check out etrailer.com for such products. I welded some on a skid plate that’s mounted on the front of my TV to protect the expensive ebike rack, works great!
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I bought a LE2 Platinum Twin a couple months ago. 🙂 I would highly recommend the Yellow Jacket eccentric tool. I wouldn't take a chance with such a critical component. Wall mount. I'm amazed at how quiet both the indoor and outdoor units are. No vibration transmitted to the building either. The wall mount bracket came with rubber vibration pads, but there's very little vibration to begin with. Here's the exterior part of the installation at my house:
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Tideline77 started following Full Suspension Replacement - Alcan Spring and Dexter D52 Axles
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Haven't done it to our Oliver but we "flipped" the axles on a previous trailer to gain approximately 2" for the same reason. If your Oliver axles sit on top of the springs you can have a spring/suspension shop "flip" them to put the axle tubes underneath the springs. You basically gain the diameter of the axle tubes. (Note that this could slightly affect handling since it raises the trailer's center of gravity, but we didn't notice it on our other trailer.)
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Appreciate that tip on the coffee shop ! we are no longer in Leadville, but we did have a great Pizza at “High Mountain Pies” Would recommend that spot for Pizza
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I have not read here that anybody has done so to date, but John E Davies who was active years ago wrote some about modifying the Oliver suspension from an Under- to Over-slung suspension. I tow in the NF and BLM of Arizona often, descending steep and deep washes and have so far never scraped the rear. This suspension change would give you a 5+" lift (diameter of axle plus height of leaf springs), and this comes with negatives. Mainly just climbing into the cabin would be a pain, reason why I tow with a 2WD truck, vs. a 4WD truck with a lift! No, I'm done with trucks or trailers where I'd need to climb up like that! 🤣 I'm not seeing a 2" lift option and only 2" may not answer your needs. I've got neighbors with driveways like yours, wow! I'd suggest leave the Oliver alone and fix your driveway. You'd appreciate it when driving your grocery-getter too. Talk to a concrete contractor or build a proper set of ramps specifically for this purpose. Please let us know and post here with pics and comments if you do convert your Oliver to an Over-slung suspension! 😎
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Cool @pjt, and thank you for your input as a new Forum member! I hope very soon you get a chance to have an Oliver of your own! This thread was quiet for two days which surprised me. Handy, yeah no problem and I have flare tools from working automotive brake and fuel lines, though I may need a larger flare die. I recently purchased a vacuum pump and gauges and have restored the A/C in two of our trucks. The kit has fittings for R134A, R1234yf, R32 and R454B refrigerants. The Senville 18K and 24K BTU models I've been looking at uses the very efficient R454B which is 70% R32 and 30% R1234yf. Starting to worry about whether I need permits in our city. Hate to get .gov involved, nothing but corrupt bottom-feeders! 🤣 Much of electrical code is BS too, like having a power cutoff box at the unit, as any idiot can merely trip the breaker and I don't want the extra cost and another box mounted to the side of our home. Our city will likely add 100s of dollars in permit costs too. Glad to know that Pioneer is working out for you. We have a member here who installed a Pioneer inverter A/C rooftop on his Oliver. Most of the models are likely very close in features and quality, except for the refrigerant used. Did you sit the compressor/condenser unit on the ground or wall-mount it? In our application, I would like it wall mounted, but wondering if that would cause noise. Cooling bedrooms has different concerns than cooling a garage. Would love one in my garage but I just tough it out July and Aug when we see some real heat. Thank you for the suggestion on installation videos. I'll take a look. I'm going to talk to the heating & cooling company that I've used and trust to get some inputs on how to handle this in our area. More to come... Thanks again, and BTW feel free to ask us any questions if you are interested in purchasing an Oliver, the best little egg camper out there! 😎
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Following JD's lead on this: Some thoughts about the 3 way it appears you have done all the common items: Turn the control panel up to setting 5. Park with the curbside door on the north side as much as possible to keep the solar gain off the unit. If not possible, lowering your awning a bit to put the unit into shade. Open the frig door and look in the upper back wall where the aluminum cooling fans are. On the right side of them is a white plastic "clamp" that holds the thermistor for the unit. It will slide up and down on the right most fin. This thermistor controls the cooling system. Moving it up or down will increase/decrease the temp in the box for each of the five settings on the control panel. I don't recall which way you move it go get cooler, but there there is a post on the forum. I'm sure one of the members will remind us on this detail. The Beach Lane Fans seem to be the best fan solution for a warm frig in hot conditions. So regardles of any of the suggestions, if you use a 3 way where it is hot you need the extra cooling needed by the frig. Do plan on doing this if you get yours running. Good posts on the forum on how. So now to get to the gas burner orifice. It is easy to get to and remove. Follow the gas supply valve into the curbside front of the lower access panel. It goes horizontal into a gas control valve. Beyond that valve is an air shield. The outside cover can be bent out to reveal the gas orifice. A small combination wrench is needed to remove it. Done. Hope this helps. GJ
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Hull 1703 2026 LEII Has anyone raised their Oliver 2"? I have a steep driveway and the approach angle from the road to the driveway is approximately 12%. To back the Oliver up the driveway I currently have to back up until the trailer is just about to hit and then place boards under the tires until we are started up the driveway and then we are fine. Raising the height by 2" should solve my problem.
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We went to the Keg Springs Winery earlier this week. They have quite a few different red and white grape varieties, but specialize in fruit wines. Blackberry, Muscadine, Peach, Cherry, etc. We enjoyed our visit.
- Yesterday
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Update: Water pump switch has been fixed. I was in Hohenwald for a furnace and water heater issue so I had them troubleshoot and fix as we are still under warranty. The issue ended up being a loose connector on the Seelevel switch. Mike and the Oliver service department were great in addressing all of our issues.
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Update: W255H Issue Hull#1703 2026 LEII The furnace and water heater issues have been fixed! Mike at Oliver service was very accommodating and got us back on the road. Turns out the data cable was the issue. While trying to pull a new cable thru, the old cable broke, so I suspect, it got crimped somewhere and worked initially but as we traveled down the road it was compromised. Thanks to everyone here who tried to help me fix it without traveling back to Hohenwald and to Mike and Oliver service department!
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Welcome. Looking at the map, I'd suggest the Reno, Las Vegas, Albuquerque, Oklahoma City, Little Rock, Memphis route. Lots to see on that path. Last year we stayed at Maumelle Park outside Little Rock and visited the Little Rock River Market and the nearby riverfront park. We also visited Memphis (not the nicest city) and saw Elvis' mansion and the Bass Pro Pyramid, which is definitely worth a stop (try the restaurant at the top). Some good food and interesting places north of Hohenwald in the Nashville area, too. Have fun planning your trip!
