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No complaints EVER on the LevelMatePRO+! Make sure you get the '+' model. Batteries, big batteries, we don't need no stinkin' batteries! You hardwire the + model to 12V in any easy location, like under dinette seat where 12V connections are right there. Know you'll never have to touch it again, leave it always ON, always working, always active when needed! 🤣

We moved back to our AZ home seven years ago after living for 12 years back and forth between two homes, where my tools were spread between the two and my truck. On Craig's I found large stand-up Snap-on toolbox and was lucky to find a huge, well made workbench setup that Adam and I disassembled to move and rebuilt it to fit a custom L-shaped layout around 2 stalls of our 3-car garage, the center stall being my workspace. I also found a used Tuff Shed for storage, so my garage would be solely as an auto workshop, not junked up with storage items. I installed other standing toolboxes and cabinets, enough room for a major 45-year collection of hand tools and spare parts. Then I emptied every hand-carry toolbox into the larger stationery toolboxes. During a winter cold-spell I spent days sorting our every box and package I hade with nuts & bolts, auto parts, electrical and plumbing parts. , etc. I bought a case of blue plastic single-gang electrical boxes (cheap effective storage bins) to hold all the small screws, nuts & bolts, nails, crimp parts..., drawers full of them in mounted file cabinets. For years now to the present, I know where every tool and most spare parts are located. I return all tools to where they belong daily, unless I'm in the middle of a job I will continue the very next day. Spending considerable time in organizing your tools is well worth it. I get repairs done now in half the time, not having to hunt for parts and tools! In getting ready to work, climbing under truck or trailer, I think a hard 5-10 minutes and collect part & tools needed in flat plastic trays that I lay on the ground where I'm working. The other thing I bring, since I/we will always forget something is my phone. With Chris' office just inside our home from the garage entrance, she's nearby and often happy to help. 😂 She'll come out to hand me a tool or two, knowing its easier for her to do so vs. what it takes me to get off a hard garage floor, and then climb down again. I do mean the word 'climb' as the downs and ups are not as easy as they used to be! 🤣 We all prefer to work preventive maintenance at home vs. getting stuck on the road. I have enough extras that I've assembled a small dedicated toolbox and a plastic parts box for the Oliver. They sit in the bottom of my large truck toolbox along with a cheater bar, a couple long items. Proud to be keeping our truck and trailer in good maintenance so that these tools just sit ready, now 124 overnights in two years with our Oliver! Hope to never use them, but I have what we need to change tires, bearings, leaf springs or do a truck repair, like replacing an alternator or water pump on the road. Now that we've upgraded to Alcan Leaf Springs, I just removed the spare set of 1750 LB springs from the TV. These are not going to fail in my lifetime, though I do have tools with to replace wet bolts/bushings or most anything else!

Yeah, I learned of others that had issues with their LevelMate and disappointment with the Max upgrade; fortunately nothing major with my Pro, only minor regarding battery life. I’m one to hang onto an investment and make do, so changing out the battery seasonally resolved that issue. Guess I’ve been lucky!

For what it's worth, we "bit" last year on an "upgrade" offer from a Levelmate Pro to a Levelmate Max, because of battery issues with the Levelmate Pro. But the Levelmate Max has unreliable connectivity and the software is "buggy". It became so frustrating we reverted to 2-person campsite setup, with a torpedo level. Having now used both the Levelmate Pro and the Levelmate Max, we wish we had instead purchased the Beech Lane (as suggested by Patriot, above).

Agree. Levelmate works well and another benefit over using bubble levels is that you can monitor the trailer degree of level while moving into the campsite. I camp in boondocks sites where the gravel/dirt is uneven and I can monitor from the drivers seat while moving back or forward to find best level spot.

The Collar, ABUS lock with 2” de-shanked hitch ball locked in the jaw. If leaving for extended period, will remove safety chains. If they want it, they will find a way to take it, merely deterring honest and lazy thieves is the goal. Buddy had SOB trailer stolen from his drive by thief merely wrapping safety chains around hitch and dragging it off, sparks flying down the road.

I certainly suffer from the same issue. There would be fewer ˋget up'ś and trips to the garage if the only tools I had were a rock and a sharp stick! Mossey

I use this and it works flawlessly. Super simple set up and dials XPLOR in dead level. Strong reviews and the price is reasonable. I would buy again without hesitation. I mounted it on the inside of the closet wall out of sight. Tested, Manufactured and made in the USA! 🇺🇸 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C28VJLG5/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=d3c72cff5eef1b3a98013caddad9f9dc&hsa_cr_id=0&qid=1757682231&sr=1-1

I found the 11K Dometic Penguin ll, originally installed in my 2020 OLEll, to be lacking in cooling efficiency with our Texas heat; a 15K replacement proved to be a better unit for my needs. If you don’t plan to camp in extreme heat or cold, perhaps an 11K/4500 BTU unit will suffice, but why limit yourself? Regardless of action taken, having the existing heater for backup may be a better plan over removal. With regards to installing a DC unit, you may first want to try to fish a path for the larger wires required before making that investment. Also, one would think a larger battery bank and even max solar necessary for this “new package for Oliver Boondockers”; added cost that doesn’t seem to be factored into the equation.

@JMSpoff I still use air tags not as much for a security measure, but a recovery/tracking device. I have one buried deep in my Honda 3200i generator, TV and of course our Oliver. I replace the 2032 batteries yearly. See the attached link. I think I have only read about one theft of an Oliver Elite 1 during my time on this forum and the Oliver FB page. It was recovered pretty quickly from what I recall.

Many use the LevelMate products for front/back and side/side adjustments with use of a phone app. Leveling blocks/ramps can also be used to lift one side and rear stabilizer jacks then to fine tune. Front jack used for front/back leveling often with a block to reduce jack extension. Perfect leveling made simple!

I just installed a Bauer Bluetooth Keyless Entry Door Lock. Currently on sale at Camping World for $217.

The original unit was replaced without the 3 way float level. I have the side/side level in the basement. Suggestions on location and product that can help with my front/back level needs? Will it now have to be a 2 person operation? Thanks, Pat and Amy Radack Hull # 1189 - 2022 LEII, Twin, Lit Pro Pack, Out Pro Pack, Convection Microwave, Composting Toilet, Truma Aquago, Cradlepoint WAN, Added Truma A/C w/ CP Plus, Midea 20 pint, Foibles. Black 2019 RAM 2500, Cummins 6.7L, Limited, Crew Cab, 4 x 4, 6’ bed w/Rambox

I think I understand. Perhaps it is time to think about a 12 - 24 - 48 VDC unit that rates at 11K BTU and also heats at 4500 BTU. If you care so much less about heating, what could you do with the space once the existing heater is removed. Surely the 8 AWG couldn't be that hard. A second DC bus bar and a lot fewer Ah for under $1K material. Pipe dream or a new package for Oliver Boondockers... Thoughts?

Hi- try the USFS & BLM CG app

Got an email from RVlock today. They are trying to get me the correct battery for the single, non-functional FOB I have. They stated quite clearly that their keys are laser cut and can not be copied. Perhaps that is what they are currently using. The key I have was just duplicated by my locksmith. He wouldn't, however, duplicate the key that locks/unlocks the FT. Knox Locks puck that covers/secures the bulldog on the # 1189. I will ask again and send a photo.

Make a checklist, like a pilot, and stick to it. Failure to follow my own list has led to a could of expensive mistakes over the years.

@Pat Radack We all started somewhere with regard to learning and towing our Ollies around the country. You can ask away and we will glad help you out. Not sure if you use social media such as F/B? Oliver has a great Oliver Owners FB page as which also a wealth of information. We still use our checklist when we set up and break camp and my bride and copilot truly is my second set of eyes!👀 Pro tip - Never be in a hurry when settling up or breaking camp and packing up. Take your time and it will become second nature. We are o the road right now headed to the Great North Woods! Enjoy that Oliver and go camping! 🍁 Patriot🇺🇸

I've seen some solar powered ones that don't need a power source.

We've also had 2 RVLocks fail. Will install something else next time.

Our Tessie was black and white. She and Maestro (cat #1) were travel buddies. (Maestro was the boss.)

I serviced the front jack after we purchased our Oliver near 2 years ago. It sounded dry and the front lift jack is certainly used at least 2x more often than the rears. The rears are also protected from the elements. To date the motor/gear sounds on the rear jacks where good. I've been replacing the Dexter axles and leaf springs on our Oliver and using the rear jacks for the heavy lift, getting the wheels off the ground, a few times in the last couple weeks. Yesterday the curbside sounded like the motor was drawing too much current (slowing down) and then started clicking not lifting. The clicking sound was like the sound you get when releasing the jack, lifting the shaft too high hitting the stop, but it made this sound while pushing down to lift the trailer, only halfway up, nowhere near the 18" lift-height of the VIP3000. From rebuilding the front jack, I noted wear on the worm-drive gear that's attached to the motor (see picture of motor gear from my front jack service). If the rears show the same upon disassembly, I will need to replace the motor(s). I found this part with a quick search. I can buy 3 of these for the cost of one complete VIP3000 and we know the rear jacks have a custom weld that must be reused or replaced. https://highskyrvparts.com/barker-mfg-trailer-landing-gear-motor-16263 Have any of you have to service your rear jacks, including replacing any worn parts? I understand how to remove them and service them. I guess I'll only know after I remove the jack that is presently not functioning. See page 2 of this link to see the service I worked on the front jack. I will keep y'all posted on the repair... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4094-how-to-vip-3000-electric-stabilizer-jack-service/page/2/#comment-94339

Yes, English Spring Spaniel, liver & white!

Much better. TY

Is Charley a Springer?