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Difficult to tell from the existing picture but it's also possible the duct work has dropped out of the knockout panel. If you haven't already I would move your bed aside, open the hatch from above to make sure the duct has not vibrated loose and onto the floor.

Thanks, that’s what I was thinking but didn’t see the knockout in plane site. I’m going to take a mirror to see if it slid under the floor. 😀 We are slowly making our way to Alaska from Arizona. Currently in Idaho and we are definitely using the heater. 🥶⛄️.

Jd, my Oliver came with Furrion fs65w speakers. They have white grills and at $20 each on Amazon they are a bargain. You might spend as much just changing the grills. I actually looked into replacing the Furrion speakers with Polk Audio DB652 to improve the sound. They have a broader frequency range and the sensitivity is improved from Furrion’s 86dB to 92dB. However, they have black grills, would need a 5.5” to 6” adapter, and they are about $50 each. The return didn’t justify the cost. I took another route and painstakingly measured the Furrion’s speakers Fs (free-air resonance frequency) to determine if a 3-D printed sealed enclosure or baffling would improve their sound. This involved injecting a range of frequencies through the stereo, then measuring the voltage at the speaker terminals through a 10 ohm resistor. The highest voltage was at 188 Hz, which is the point where the speaker resonates most freely. This indicated that the speaker suspension was on the stiff side and improvement was unlikely After all that, just the new IVR stereo was enough improvement that I completely forgot about replacing the speakers. Cheers! Geoff

The 48th state was Rhode Island. We completed the last fifteen (15) states over the past 12 Months. Newport, RI was a fun town to complete the job.

I had a similar experience when I needed one of the four screws that hold the Dometic AC cover on. I called and was told they would “take care of me”. In a few days I had a bag of 6 screws. No charge. Mike

There are both map and system updates available from Garmin. The maps update only take a couple of minutes while the system update takes 10 to 15 minutes. Bill p.s. these updates are for (at least) the 890.

You can drill with the collar in place, either a 1/4" self-drilling screw, or drill a hole for a #8 sheet metal screw. Best to tape it on before screwing, otherwise the holes can be hard to re-align. Those collars are a pain to install, and you were right to tape it in place. There was another post today where it looked like the blank hole seal might have fallen off someone's furnace. The PEX lines are definatly in the way, my duct was squashed to fit through, and the water heater by-pass valve handle had worn a hole in the duct. While you're in there, take a look at the water heater plumbing. There is a by-pass loop and valve to isolate/by-pass the water heater. This was one of the lines interfering with my duct. I removed it, mostly because I put in a hot water recirculating system, but it opened up space too. I don't anticipate ever needing to by-pass the water heater like that, and most folks probably don't even know it's an option because the valve is hidden under the duct. If there is ever a problem during travels, I'm just shutting the water off or bypassing the water heater by other means.

Wow! That's even better than a trip to the local hardware store, except you probably didn’t get popcorn like I do! Mossey

i was wondering about that. i did not see any screws, glad I asked. here is a picture of my beveled connector collar. Did you twist & remove the connector collar to drill that hole? I accidently removed mine when working the elbow on to it. Took me 10 mins to get it inserted & locked in just right. that is why my foil tape is there to stabilize it, in case i go the "Screw the 180" route. Now i might bring my 180 with me and try to do that mod on the road if things are a bit chilly inside. Maggie said that she felt a lot of heat coming out of the shower exhaust next to the TP caddie. i was reading but did not catch if you mentioned, Did you replace any pex to move the line that is "Right in the WAY!!!" to connect the under the bed exhaust vent? Boy-h-boy, they sure did want us to have a nice 45 elbow in there. The way i see it is, if i can move the water line, then i can have a Rigid Tee in there on the way to the Kitchen Exhaust.

When I called Dometic for a part number last year, the lady couldn't figure out the part number for the little grommets. So she sent a bunch of parts including all the grommets, new knobs, new decal. For free! She was also very fun and cheerful to talk to.

Yes screws are necessary on all the fittings, clamps will not compress rigid fittings onto the furnace flange. But screws are not enough, also use foil tape on all the joints it holds very well and seals too! I see some remnants of the old foil tape in your picture, and it's readily available at most hardware stores. Geoff

390 ah is three batteries, 640 ah is two. You have three batteries, 390 ah. Also if you select one of the three batteries on your app, then go to page two, it will show capacity... 130 ah each

It's pretty easy to stub your toe like this when buying on Amazon. It's not the same as a trip to local hardware store if you still have one! Mossey

How can I figure out if my system is the 390ah or the 650ah? I’m looking at my settings and the LBCO is 11.5 v I’m not having any issues, but I have updated the firmware a few times so I want to make sure I have the settings correct. I am pretty confident I have a 390 ah system.. should I leave the settings alone or change them? sorry to hijack your thread. Marc

At the Oliver Rally I plan to put out various parts for free that may fit other Oliver setups as I’ve bought many replacement parts (like stove grommets) that aren’t for our version by mistake.

That looks like the knockout panel on the furnace is missing . You can seal it with silver furnace tape or find a sheet metal piece to put in place. Please post the pix to oliver as a service ticket!

Is it normal to have this large furnace opening blowing under the curbside bed? We seem to be getting excessive hot air blowing out our kitchen drawers and under the bed. The rest of the flex duct looks fine. (The photo shows the large furnace opening directly behind the under bed access port.) Thanks!

About 9 years ago, on the start of my second year with my still "new" Ollie I stopped into a donut shop in Rock Springs, WY. Upon getting back to the Ollie I noticed that my fridge wasn't working. Luckily, there was an RV repair shop just down the street that agreed to help me even though they were VERY busy. Fifteen minutes later I was back on the road but not until I had a chance to ask just how they fixed the problem so fast. The tech told me that bugs, dust, and debris of all sorts can land on or "foul" several things in the burner area. The solution for this is to carry a can of compressed air in order to simply blow that stuff away even without having to remove any parts. The only warning he had for doing this was to never direct that canned air flow into the burner jet orifice. So, given the dirt roads I often use I've needed that compressed air more than once - don't leave home without it! Bill p.s. it is best to purchase a can while at home - there are several locations I've found where compressed air (if they have it) is held behind locked doors. This is apparently due to some people inhaling what comes out of these cans in order to get "high", therefore, local ordinances have restricted sales.

Geoff, Did you end up putting a screw into the "Connecting Collar" coming out of the rear of the Truma heater and the start of the rigid duct (180° turn). Or replace it with a "straight out" " not beveled" connecting collar. I found the design of the existing connecting collar had a slight beveled towards the inside. I believe this is to allow insertion around it of the flex ducting, which has little weight to it. but for heavier rigid ducting and the heavier flex ducting there is for lack of a better word more “Torque” on that connecting collar. My rigid 180 as shown kept sliding off no matter how tight the 4” clamp was cranked down. So, I went back to a heavier (than supplied by Oliver in 2020) duty flex tubing. I even had the rigid and heavier flex on the floor to reduce torque, and it would still come off with the slightest of movement. I liked everything else i saw and it makes sense. So, I did "phase I" of re-ducting. Maybe the re-design will be adapted at factory assembly. B~Out,

I found replacements that work on both size grommets on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CVQR21J7?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Your last camping trip once again proves the old adage 'camping is a participation sport'. I appreciate you sharing your solutions to the adversity you faced! Well done, Mossey

I do not know who said this in a post about 6 months ago, but when I read it I was running out of canned air in the garage (I only use it on fine stuff like electricronics, other wise I use my air compressor). So I bought 2 cans, one for the old and one for the garage. I did see small hose about 1/8 inch with a valve on it to reduce flow that hooks up to a standard air compressor hose. but I didn't purchase it. might be nice for home instead of a can. But the can is nice and portable for working on stuff inside the house.

Congratulations on overcoming all those issues and continuing with your trip. You’re going to like the Epoch batteries. Enjoy the Rockies, there’s so much to see and do! Mike

Ours has two sizes of grommets, double the trouble!