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Likely due to the low battery cutoff parameter / selection on the Xantrex inverter. The inverter will shut off a bit before the batteries go into safe mode which is not a bad thing. The point at which this happens becomes more significant depending upon how much load the Xantrex is supplying due to the voltage drop in the wiring between the batteries and the Xantrex which varies with load. The Xantrex sees a slightly lower voltage than what actually exists at the battery terminals ( and what the internal battery management system sees). For example if you are running your microwave the voltage indicated, (battery voltage ), on the Xantrex display will be lower than what you would read directly across your battery terminals with a voltmeter. The result being that the Xantrex will hit its low battery cutoff and shut off before the battery will go into safe mode.

Misunderstanding, I know why we're upgrading the springs and I'm doing it too. I just meant 'why do we all invest in a high end suspension if we don't believe it'll cushion the ride sufficiently?' Basically, we invested in a high end robust trailer - one of the most if not the most robust and well build. Additionally we beef up our suspension. I don't get then why we pamper that trailer like it's a wussie Some Other Trailer - especially when I see tons of Airstreamers running 65 PSI with these tires no problems. Of course it does. During a factory tour it was discussed how they have to add honeycomb panels into the glass to reinforce because the panel cutouts lowers the rigidity. And generally you don't want a perfectly rigid structure; the vibration has to damp somehow. And no doubt 'there have been issues', but its anecdotal without details. OTOH when I was there a tech told me about a recent trailer they got back in. The guy fell asleep at the wheel, the trailer flipped over on it's side and got dragged down the road a long distance. With a pretty good rug burn you can imagine 😅(more later). But the tow company just put it back on its feet and ... guess what ... just towed it back normally! The hitch was mangled I think but they chained it up just fine. So the insurance wanted an assessment, and you know they could have actually repaired it just fine. The engineers issue was liability. It has burned through the belly band on that side pretty well, sure they could repair but then they have to support it. Wasn't worth messing with and they called it a total loss, except it wasn't really. Anyhow you speak to common sense but I don't think that is a good guide here because it's too hard to judge. My common sense says underinflating - with a trailer this robust, is adding risk for no benefit. We need numbers. From the spring thread I suggested taking measurements. I recommend a vibration app for you phone, tape that to the floor and test how much vibration the trailer is getting. Test and different PSI's. I'll bet it's small, and dropping significantly (e.g. recommended 65 to 35) doesn't greatly help, while lowering efficiency, increasing heat and overall risk. I'm taking a trip next month and will measure how I'm beating my trailer to hell at the factory recommended 65 PSI and post the results. Another member said he's upgrading his springs soon and will also measure, which will tell us the spring performance, and how much vibration we're getting.

Addressing brightness and color temperature: I've had issues with the original touch lights flickering and in one case completely failing so last week I replaced all of the touch lights with these, which a few people on this forum had recommended; (as always, thanks folks!). I haven't used them for very long so I can't speak to their longevity but so far I like them for the following reasons: You can select their color temperature when you purchase them They have a mechanical power switch They are dimmable via the switch They have a blue nightlight feature Most importantly: They remember their last mode / state / brightness selected even when the trailer master switch had been turned off for travel. The one feature of the original touch lights that I didn't like was that when I powered the trailer master switch on all the touch lights would come on and I'd have to turn them off individually as desired The hole pattern is close enough to the original lights to make installation easy. I did use screws rather than rivets though In terms of the build quality they leave a bit to be desired, they're similar to the originals although they have a plastic base, probably not so great in terms of heat dissipation so time will tell. I bought a 4-pack and a 2-pack so I have one spare.

Our LE2 originally came with Dexter 5200lb axles & 5 leaf springs. Right now our ready to camp weight with empty water tanks is 5100lbs. No one has reported the original 5 leaf Dexter springs failing, yet. With the 10,400lb total axle/spring capacity combined with a 5100lb LE2 weight, I always tried to reduce the overall accumulated fiberglass/frame/component stress from the impact of higher capacity springs by running lower air pressure in the LT load range E tires and by towing slower on rough pavement. We purchased our Ollie used in 2016 and ran 50PSI like the previous owner without issues until seeing the LT tire pressure/load charts in different threads here like the ones posted earlier when I reduced the pressure to 40PSI for the last one or two years without issues.

Short Version: Springs because dozens of us have had them FAIL. Axles because a boat load of us have tons of miles on the 3500 Dexters, and the cost of replacement of the brake assemblies is insane, and besides we want the braking power of the 5200's. None of which involve tire pressure. That topic was started by John D, and I got the facts presented to OTT and they have since reduced their recommendations accordingly. GJ

I can assure you that the fiberglass does flex. As do the frames. Granted it is the best on the market bar none. We have seen evidence here in this forum of frames being damaged, as well as structural supported components as well. No one can say for sure that the PSI number or some springs being oversprung CAUSED anything. But our trailers are not totally bullet proof. They can, and have, failed when stressed beyond their design limitations or due to improper actions or choices by owners, or OTT during manufacture. Either way, having some good common sense about how much punishment we want OUR trailer to experience in it's life is just a smart concept to be open to. To that idea, tire pressures and diameters, spring rates and axle weights ALL impact the G-loads our fiberglass hulls endure. Frequency of stressors is also a not yet discussed element of the puzzle. GJ

So you are saying that one does not need or should use 60 PSI. But you use 40. Which is what I recommend as well. Just saying your quote above could lead more than a few of us astray. To be clear you and I both recommend 40 PSI. Right? GJ

When my tire pressure is too high and the ride a bit harsh, my mother-in-law starts complaining about the bumpy ride back there making her drop stitches on her knitting, which then upsets my wife, and when momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. Happy wife, Happy Life! Just set yer tire pressure so your MIL may knit in peace.

Tire pressure has been a well discussed topic. My trailer came aired at 80psi, max pressure on the side of the tire. I did that for a few years. Then, I went to 55psi. I think it was because that’s what the tire manufacturer recommended for the weight of my trailer. It’s been 6 or 7 years, so it could have been something else. Anyway, 55 has worked well. It does seem that there is less discombobulation of interior items, fewer times the window shades have come down and other small annoyances found at the end of a trip on bumpier roads. If max pressure feels right, then go with it! Mike

OK, but these OEM’s do vibrational test. At my day job where it’s a measurement device (not for RV’s) we do vibrational test and specification, there are stringent procedures for this, and often companies pay dedicated test houses. Let’s look at the Xantrex specifically as the most expensive and sensitive, according to search it conforms to UL 458. UL standards are very stringent, on the Lithionics batteries, to get UL they had to have two BMS’s in case one failed - that’s nuts No need to dig into the standard but there’s simply no way that a Oliver, with our upgraded suspension, with the build quality we all extoll, will destroy this thing at 50+ psi. I mean why are we all upgrading leaf springs and Dexter EZ-Flex if we have to air down. Make it make sense …

@DanielBoondock to me it’s not about the trailer itself. It’s about all the components inside, especially the electronics.

Well I think we have exhausted talk of tire pressures. Just put 45 to 55 psi in each tire and go camping and stop reading forums about tire pressures. HEHE Dropping mic now. LOL

I’m curious why people are worried about ‘beating’ their trailer? For these tires I’m reading Airstream forums where they’re running at least up in the 50’s-60’s with no issue, and those things can and will grind rivets out. The Ollie is a brick, the fiberglass is rock solid and non flexing, there’s no moving parts or dissimilar glued/screwed/riveted panels or parts like in conventional or Airstream. Also in those what can happen is the cabinets can loosen because they’re screwed in, but ours are part of the structure, and actually providing structure. This is all without talking about the frame, who has a two part steel/thick aluminum frame? Nobody I can think of. I guess I just don’t see the motivation to provide further cushioning, for the one trailer on the market that doesn’t need it, in exchange for greater wear and risk. Not trying to convince anybody but I’m just not seeing any reason for it.

Wow that’s a changelog! Technical Confusing user information, Neverdie cuts off at 10% so have remaining discharge time match, even though it still has reserve After a week of rain and some vampires I left on I found my inverter off and the battery at 10%, but the lights and 12V still work. That’s NeverDie in action I believe saving the last 10% for emergency. If I’d check the remaining discharge it would have said 10% when due to this it’s zero (except the 12V appliances still work, so not sure the thinking here Algorithm calibration improvement Automatically recalibrate the usable power based on a calibration of actual performance - nice! Edge case if battery is powered off for a long time how some things are calculated previous releases are here https://lithionics.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/folders/154000237109 This one is from 2024 so looks like now they’re not updating too often

Yep, I have been running 40PSI for a year or two. Believe my original wheels rated for a maximum of 60PSI are rare.

Please read again. This is the MAX PSI rating of the wheel. Margin being that he runs 40 PSI in the Oliver!

Spot on! I suspect most of us have the AFE concern as well. You sure made me smile on that one! GJ

60 PSI? Sure if they like to un-necessarily pound your trailer frame and contents. Oh and more recent, the not so good pounding to the battery box. I had to tell Cray Horse to mind his own business when he wanted me to mention what the spring selection can do in addition to the above. Oh my when will he learn....

Thank you for the visual presentation of tire pressures by the major tiret companies. We all should know our trailer tire loads and the tongue weights. Only the trailer tire weights should be used with your charts. For our OE2, with a total weight of 6,000 pounds and a tongue weight of say 600 pounds my four tires are carrying just 5400 pounds. That's 1350 pounds each. Of note in your charts not one of the mfg's have a weight/pressure anywhere close to what most of us are loading. Common practice therefore is to use the MFG minimum recommend tire pressure, either 35 or 40 PSI depending. I know we are all tire experts. Or are we? I run michelin's and the listed minimum for their chart is 40. Why is anybody running 50+ any more? I guess they are special and have more experience than the tire manufacturers. Or not. GJ

Didn't want a different hue, nor less light, just not direct light (but also good comments/ideas)! This solution allows for full light without direct exposure to your eyes. I've been asking our Pickleball center to shade their lighting in a similar way. We want all the light, just not staring in our eyes. You can lose the ball when your opponent hits a lob, like your playing outdoors in the sun! At home we have dimmers, but instead of dimming a 100W bulb, generally I'd rather replace it with a 75W or 40W bulb. I bought a cabinet full of GE Reveal incandescent lights before harsh LED lights is all you can find on the market (thanks climate nuts)! Adding a dimmer? Would there be a convenient location for the switch? This upgrade is the best cosmetic upgrade I've done for only $24, plus the cost of glue! 😎

Of course - another way of reducing these bright lights is to install a dimmer - 😁 Bill

Nifty solution. Lighting is everything, I'll post my Hue light solution here when I can get some pictures (the trailer is a mess as I reorganize) Not clear but did you put a cover on the end? Ideal solution would be to have a phosphor coated glass or plastic. Hue does this I believe, the LED's activate the phosphor which than readmits a broad spectrum soft light. But I'm not finding such a thing, probably has to be in a vacuum. However there are other solutions like this LightDims White Dims Self Adhesive Dimming/Softening Sheets for Harsh LED Lights Probably just an etched screen but something like that might help soften it

Six weeks later, after a lot of local camping this spring, I got the lamp shade installation done! 😎 Drilling 5 more of these, I found the large hole saw was binding hard. So I put the drill in reverse and it cut clean through the soft PVC in seconds, nice! I installed them over the Main Cabin and Dinette lights. I didn't want lamp shades over the beds, or the kitchen, since they are low enough and want the light to spread horizontally. So, we went with 6 shades total. I used the Gorilla Clear Grip that @Hokieman suggested above. The instructions state to apply glue to both surfaces, wait 2 minutes and connect, but it would be very difficult to apply glue to the Oliver ceiling! In a PM from Mike, he suggested putting glue on the shade part, placing it up on the ceiling to get a circle of glue up there, then remove it for 2 minutes and reapply. Great idea! I tested the glue first with two random PVC parts. The next day they held strongly together and after I broke the seal, the glue residue came off easily, cleaned up nicely, way easier than removing spent VHB tape. This will be a new sealant in my Oliver toolbox and I cannot believe I got a 3-pack on Amazon for $9! I placed the parts, eyeballing center with about 1/4" free-play, rotated the shade to spread the glue, spun off to remove and replaced each in two minutes, again rotating the shade until it felt firm. I did the next 3 Cabin Lights in series, 5 minutes for the entire job given the parts were prepped. On the first one, a little glue squeezed out. It was easy to remove excess glue merely rubbing with a paper towel while it was still pliable. The PVC parts have embossed model # lettering on the glued surface. I used a razor blade to remove the lettering to level the mating surface, but you can still see a hair of light coming through since the glue is clear. White glue would eliminate this but it's not bad at all. It's hard to take pictures of the shades on Main Cabin lights! The beautiful Oliver ceiling, still shiny at 10 years old, reflects like a mirror (see pics). In three years, we've only used the Main Cabin lights when cleaning or I'm working mods inside the Oliver. Now, we should use them often. And it will also be nice to sit down to dinner and not see that bright lamp glaring in front of Chris across the table. Basically the same amount of light is present, it's just not hitting us in the eyes anymore! 😎

Here’s some suspension p*rn of a shock absorber upgrade to a trailer with a similiar suspension. Except no Ez-Flex, which has a low compression puck. I’d expect the puck to be a low pass filter (e.g. absorb high frequency road tooth noise) Around 10:20 he has great views of the suspension in action. Just basic leaf springs and shocks are doing a lot of work here, looks like only higher frequency vibrational is making it to the trailer. And this oliver with basically no seams I think would just laugh at that. Especially the way they install everything, biggest danger is how you pack the storage.

For reference the specs on my new 2026 Goodyear Endurance ST225/75 15(E) 65 PSI cold press Cargo limit 1630 lbs Measured 60 PSI after a 4k trip, probably was 65 from the factory. Will check the spare, expecting 65 there. FWIW I’m not a fan of lowering pressure except for low speed offroad traction. At freeway speeds it just heats up and stresses the tire, it’s the suspensions job to absorb shock. The tires job is to provide traction and to a minor degree filter road surface tooth (high sidewalls biggest component of this). If the suspension performance isn’t up to your expectations then that should be addressed with springs and shocks. And before doing anything it should be measured before and after, on the leaf spring thread I discuss a simple way to do it with your phone. Finally, the tire has a sidewall warning “TIRE FAILURE DUE TO UNDERINFLATION …” Anyhow, to each his own, I won’t criticize anybody’s ride. From the drivers seat it rode fine from the factory so I’ll keep it at 65 psi.