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Thanks Snackchaser, that makes sense.

Those are probably the emergency breakaway switch for the breaks and the CO monitor. They take a direct feed from the battery.

A jack screw! Thank you, and thanks for the photo. That's what I'm looking for. Now I know what to ask for.

Looks like they installed a flexible tube and left a twist in it. You might try loosening a clamp and twisting the kink out. Unfortunately that kink could be set and it seems like too a tight bend even for a replacement piece. Oliver should address that despite the expired warranty, it was just a poor installation from the start. Good luck, Geoff

Thanks for the detailed response. I agree—the wiring is a mess, and that’s exactly why I’m redoing all of it. I did not know about the failure rate of the Optifuse. I’m also curious about the maximum of three wires on a lug, and why there are two connections ahead of the Optifuse. For my upgrade, I’ll be using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor with ANL fuses.

It looks like you're missing the hold-down jack screw. See my post: "A different refrigerator fan option" for a picture of it. It looks like the nut part is still there from your photo, so the bolt might be laynig in there somewhere. Look behind the master switch panel, through the round marine port access, that is where it's tightened or loosened from. Good luck, Geoff

I'm not very handy so I haven't looked a lot under and around the bowels of our trailer, but recently I had an occasion to do so. Looking at my shower drain pipe I saw this: It appears that the 1.5 inch drain line has collapsed. The shower still drains slowly and there's no leaks (yet?), but I'm a bit shocked. While the pipe from the shower pan is vertical, the connection to the gray tank(?) pipe appears to be at a 45 degree angle so that buying a new P Trap doesn't appear to be a good option unless I'm willing to re-plump. Is this normal? I'm open for suggestions.

Bummer! I have seen brand new tires with a "slight sidewall bulge" due to the lesser manufacturing process of some brands. Though I just looked at my flat bed trailer that has the same Goodyear Endurance ST tires, just a size smaller. No bulges on mine and they look to be rather well made tires. They are 7 years old now with likely only 2500 miles on them! I'm not changing them yet since lately we only use the trailer to go dirt-biking once or twice a year. A 12 ft 7K dual axle trailer with 650 LBS of cargo a few miles at 35 MPH, I'll take my chances! Now the Oliver is a different story! Our LT tires are near 5 years old. I never heard 5 years for ST, always seen 7 years. We have 19K miles on the Oliver in 3 years, prior owner had 2 years on the same tires with who knows how many miles, and there is no real treadwear. Every time I talk maintenance, I recommend removing the wheels for inspection when doing anything else! Grease Zerks, torque bolts and spend a few minutes inspecting each tire. I always remove all the gravel, and often while doing so, I have found a screw or some kind of metal in the treads. Wash the tires on both sides. It's easier to see a defect or new damage on a clean tire! Bulge just on one tire, make it the spare for now. Running at 55 PSI is a very good number for low sidewall stress. Could you have any prorated warranty left? (3 years 10K miles) Or if it's truly a defect, Goodyear might cover it anyway. You could drive by a Discount Tire or other Goodyear dealer when you get a chance. They should help to communicate with Goodyear for coverage. It's a shame that OTT installed tires already 1-2 years old, 6-8 months is more usual, less time with the large manufacturing volume of these ST tires. Why did OTT change to ST tires on 15" wheels? Do they make a 15" LT tire? I'm not a TPMS guy either and our vehicles are all too old to have OEM TPMS. I check every time I take a break from driving. Do a full walk around and eyeball all 8 tires before going. I do it with all vehicles, whether towing or not.

My microwave is loose and moves around inside its cabinet. A review of the forum suggests this happens from time to time and various fixes have been proposed. I'm asking the forum if I'm missing a piece that should have been installed originally. The photo below shows the two screws on the right side of the microwave stripped. This is the cause of the movement. The photo below shows a threaded socket(?) in the microwave cabinet ceiling immediately above the microwave. Nothing is attached or ever was screwed in there. I was informed by another owner that visited me, that there is supposed to be a piece that screws into this spot to hold the microwave in place. Is this true? When I called Oliver, Tech Support told me that I'm supposed to have straps to hold the microwave in place (see Oliver-provided photo below). However, my microwave (see below) has never had straps and there's no remnant of torn straps or stripped screws. Because my trailer is four years old, I'm being told that it's out of warranty and I will have to fix this. I'm not very happy with Oliver right now. I'm looking for confirmation of a missing piece or not and what that piece is called so I could maybe order it. Tech Support said I will have to run straps through the foam, secure them somehow, and reseal the compartment to correct what I think is their manufacturing defect. Thoughts?

Thank you. I had not checked out the 2019 Oliver Manual before. I just downloaded a copy. I see many differences comparing our older hull but still can be helpful.

We will be there on Monday. You will love the work that Easton will do for you.

Dean, WOW! I've seen some strange wiring but what happened here? Did they run out of buses on install day? The installer just bolts everything to the breaker, OMG! 🤣 BTW, this is the famous Optifuse! Many of these have failed, so that OTT has stopped using them! Search the Forum for keyword Optifuse. I'd be surprised if this isn't the answer to the issue of this thread, since everything not working, lights, jacks etc. is connected to this breaker. Do yourself a favor with your upgrade and replace the Optifuse breaker with an 60A ANL fuse and holder. Oh, and add a +bus, LOL! Back in 2016, OTT used Bussman breakers (at least on our hull). They installed a 40A for all 12VDC lighting, jacks, etc. (pictured above) and a 30A Bussman for the rooftop solar. Keeping things standard, I purchased a 35A Bussman breaker to protect the Victron MPPT 100|30 SC that I added for our 400W Renogy suitcase solar. Three Bussman breakers, 2 of them 11 years old, the new one 2 years old, no issues. ANL fuses are more reliable as you certainly know when they are blown (always have a spare). Fuses will blow when there's too much current on either side of the fuse. Breakers are directional, so they only protect on the load side of the breaker. I have no idea what your two black wires are on the source side of your breaker. Trace them back if you can. If not, I'd wire them to a new bus with everything else. I have no wires before a breaker anywhere, meaning power to the breakaway switch on our hull does pass though the 40A breaker (OTT had not wired this to code). I know the breakaway switch works because I pull it to test for amperage to the brakes. When I moved these breakers to the dinette area, I found the wiring from the jack fuses to all 3 jacks ran towards the dinette area first (was surprised since one jack is right there and the curbside jack is another direction). I removed all that excess wire and removed 3 butt connectors on each of the 3 wires along the way. I crimped one fresh butt connector on each of 3 much shorter wires to clean things up. 😎

Does this mean the "fuse is good?" it's certainly not a conclusive test and it doesn't mean there's a 12V source connected to the breaker. +12V on the source side of the breaker shows you have connection to the batteries. +12V on the load side shows the breaker is closed providing a power connection to the bus. A dead (or disconnected) converter will only keep you from recharging batteries when connected to shore power. A running converter is not required to operate lights, the jacks or anything else 12VDC. Converter status is independent of these 12V loads getting power from the batteries.

Imelda, Thanks for the update, and I’m glad you’re able to get home with things as they are. Just a quick reminder—the jacks don’t receive their power from the converter, but more of a direct connection from the batteries through the 60 amp Optifuse shown in my above image.

i am at a camping site and will be home tomorrow better for me to do the trouble shooting at home. the batteries read 13.4V so they are ok. i did have a battery shut of switch that I installed. i didn’t think it was the problem but i took it out just in case and connected directly to the battery terminal. no circuit breaker on the battery i was thinking of adding it myself thanks for the wiring diagram and pointing out a ground source. I was just going to run a ground wire directly from the battery just to be sure i had a good ground for the trouble shooting. the 60A fuse is good just checking the low resistance ( not the voltage but I will) across it. i am starting to suspect the converter. as when I left I had trouble with the tongue jack not working and then it did when i switched my battery switch on and off.

Saw 2 more Ollie's on my trip out east last week. Both on i90 headed east. 1 had snow flake decals all down the side.

They have a Lambert’s outside of Gulf Shores Alabama on route 59.. great family style , love the throwing of the rolls.. was there back in 2019…. I saw it on one of the food network shows.. Thanks nice to know about campground..

My wife and I lived in St. Louis for 25 years. During that time we heard about and saw advertisements for a restaurant in the southern part of Missouri but never thought that the drive (1.5 to 2 hours) was worth it for just a meal. Besides, a restaurant that relies on "throwed rolls" in their advertisements simply can't be all that good when it comes to what matters - the food. Over the past few years of returning to Western North Carolina from the Western mountains where I fly fish each summer, I've stopped at the Mothership in Hohenwald. This takes me down interstate 55 from Saint Louis and the restaurant mentioned above is located in Sikeston, Missouri just west of exit 67. So, this year I decided to make a stop at: Lambert's 2305 East Malone GPS: 36.887912, -89.546457 Lambert's has an RV park right next to the restaurant where all sites have electric and water and there is a central dump - per night rate of $45. However, while convenient to the restaurant, there are few trees (sites 8 and 9 will provide some shade) and there is no bath house. On the positive side, if needed they will come to your site and provide you with transportation to the restaurant, or, deliver your food ordered via a phone to your site. If you desire shade and/or a bath house and a slightly lower camp site price, there is Hinton's RV Park located just East of Interstate 55 at GPS: 36.893962, -89.527317. The food is basically standard American fare - think of Cracker Barrel ON STERIODS. Indeed, they come out from the kitchen area and announce the arrival of fresh rolls and then start throwing them towards anyone wanting one. Note here that if you don't catch your roll on the first or second throw, they then bring it over to you and place it on your plate. As with virtually everything else served, the rolls are large and tasty. They also have a couple of people wandering through the dining area serving out "2nds, 3rds, 4ths, etc." of a couple of "sides". Prices are reasonable and the service is very good. I was told that while the dining area is very large, it can be VERY crowded particularly on the weekends. I was there on a Monday at about 5pm and had no difficulty being seated. Bill

I think if anyone is getting kicked out it will be me. I just re-sealed the Maxx Fan and used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant - Fast Cure 4000 UV. Found it very easy to work with... used painters tape about 3/16" from the edge and ran the bead very easy. While I was doing that... I started thinking... Damn this stuff is WHITE! I mean like BRIGHT WHITE.... Then the light bulb went off and just a little dab over the caulk in the old drill holes and it is now an acceptable level of whiteness for Donna. So, no one has to sleep outside. Looking forward to seeing you at the Rally. Maybe you will give us a quick tour of the new battery system. #145 goes in to Easton in November. Scotty

Everyone's comments here on the Forum concerning the return of a "Classified Section" are appreciated. However, while some of the Oliver personnel view the Forum from time to time, I believe that the person(s) that will make the final decision on this subject probably only view the Forum on rare occasion. Therefore, any comments that any of us have on this subject (for or against) will be most effective if directed to Jason Essary and/or Scott Oliver at: 228 Industrial Ave Hohenwald, TN 38462

jd, thanks for sharing the photo of your original 12‑volt distribution. It’s definitely cleaner than what my original setup looks like. I’ve attached a photo of mine—minus the 8‑gauge input wire. I’m in the middle of replacing everything and wanted a picture before I completely disassemble it. On my install, there are two wires on the input side of the Optifuse (not counting the main 8‑gauge battery feed that’s been removed). I haven’t traced them yet, but I suspect one may be for the breakaway switch. I don’t want to hijack the thread until the main issue is resolved, but identifying these wires would save me some time. I know that the heavy red wire on the output side goes to the converter and the three jack fuses are also easily identified, but I have not traced the others out. As for troubleshooting the thread creators main problem, a ground can also be found on the inverter chassis for your voltmeter. I hope all is going well and solution has been found. Dean

Topgun2: Maybe in the future we’d be interested in organizing a regional rally, but right now life is just too busy—and we still feel a bit too new to the Oliver group. Thanks for sharing the information.

We also found our new-to-us Oliver on the Facebook page. And it was only 35 miles away . We second (or third) @jd1923's idea of a dedicated used parts section. This wouldn't take away from Oliver trailer sales and would be a great benefit for owners.

I used white plastic hole plugs similar to below when I changed out my A/C. I actually had to enlarge the holes to get the smallest one's to fit. You don't really notice them but if you do, they just like part of the installation. I was concerned that if I tried to fill the holes, I wouldn't be able to reproduce the glossy finish of the gel coat and that would be more noticeable. https://www.amazon.com/Tnisesm-Plastic-Knockout-Locking-Furniture/dp/B0C3H1J6M8

Me too. Anyone want to buy a Oliver EII convection/microwave? Only used twice. Like new.