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Good to know To be fair - says the forum (Disclaimer: see blow). The manufacturer says differently. Handwaving arguments about Oliver having been wrong before, went overboard initially with 80 psi, this and that are not evidence that their recommendation today is wrong. I spent an hour looking for current documentation from Goodyear and couldn’t find it - have a link? There’s an old 2017 pdf, and a couple tables of indeterminant provenance that get reposted. I suspect Goodyear is not posting this information anymore and leaving to OEM’s. So having some tables isn’t convincing to me. I did find a lot of engineering common practice information which warns against too low a pressure for safety reasons, not too high. Low pressures are commonly used for low speed offroad traction use cases. I’m not seeing it done to avoid jounce. Does anybody here lower their TV pressures? Why not? I don’t understand why it’s OK for our trucks to be at specified pressures, but not our trailers. Or our cars. If your wife complained about a bumpy ride would you drop her pressures in half? Think about that for a second, now it becomes a safety issue. But this is me handwaving now. As it happens, today I’m mooch camping for a family thing (poor me writing from my Ollie tonight 😅). I didn’t take measurements because I needed my phone on the way out. One the way back I’ll definately be taking measurements and analyzing. Specifically doing a spectral power density and comparing it to some example charts. This won’t be definitive - nothing is definitive. But it will be a demonstration of how much of the road rumble makes it past the suspension. Little point discussing it more until we have data - that’s for sticking with me *********** Disclaimer: I’m an engineer and for 40 years have been arguing technical points with others as a part of the job, just business as usual and no feelings involved. Take this discussion in that spirit - a search for best practices and not a keyboard warrior food fight. I’m happy when others disagree, I don’t claim to be always right, but through a healthy discussion can perhaps get somewhere. Reality is the final arbiter as my EV 6k trip proved, and I’m planning on doing the same here and will be delighted to find if I’m dead wrong. With the springs discussion for example you saw me switch sides (pending data) ***********

Since two of the screw holes are compromised, two new ones in the other locations will likely work another four years for you. All depends on how heavy you load those drawers, and how rough and long your roads to boondocking camp sites. Personally I try to do things once and done. We load our pantry very heavy. Had to install stiff legs under those shelves and 3 the number of shelf strap hangers. I understand that OTT improved the setup in later year OE2's. But keep an eye on those shelves as well. Good luck GJ

GJ The problem is simply Oliver failed to install four screws (only two) as required. Nothing more complicated and easy to resolve with two more screws. Just disappointed in Oliver Inc.

Four screws would certain hold it tight, but does a light-duty latch need such strength? I looked around my kitchen at home and all the cabinet latches have only 2 screws. I've complained about several of OTT installation practices, but for me not this one. They use the slotted hole to allow for adjustment. Easy enough to add two more in the round holes, if your sure the adjustment is exactly correct and it will stay that way. I would add, when I did maintenance of our Oliver kitchen drawers that the drawer slides ONLY had 3 thin short screws each. These are holding the weight of the drawer, so I added three more per slide, using beefier screws too. 😎

I think you are talking about the kitchen cabinet drawers. If so, the below applies: It is a PITA to have to pick up the stuff that was in the drawers and you find it in the isle rolling around after a long day of travel. I KNOW your pain. The under drawer hardware attachment is great until it is not. Basically the screws into the drawer bottom come under shear when you hit a bump and turn towards the right. Over time the connection fails when you hit a bit bump or turn. I had two of my launch the contents. Good news is there are three things you can do, and I have done all three of them: A. Add a John Davies drawer strap to the two sets of kitchen drawers. My DIY of his idea is below. B. Pull the drawers and thru drill a hole and use really small bolts with washers and Nico's to thru bolt the hardware in place. I used four per drawer bottom. I put the nylocks and washer below, and the smal head and washer above in the drawer. C. Tightbond the underside drawer bottom to the side walls. Granted I have never heard of the OTT drawers coming apart as they are well made. But I figured while I had the drawers out and upside down, why not armor plate the edge to bottom seams. A little summer sunshine dried them for reinstall in less than an hour. Hope this helps. GJ DIY - Galley Drawers Straps by John E. Davies.docx

Unfortunately, no Oliver staff is "assigned" to read or monitor the Forum. Therefore, if you really want Oliver to see this post, fill out a Service Ticket or send an email directly to Jason Essary. Bill

The four upper cabinet drawers of the six have a latch/bracket (wrong words?) underneath in the front that should have four screws in each. Two of the screws go in the side slots and one tightens them after correctly adjusting. After that two more screws should go in the single hole on each side to "lock" in the bracket. On my Oliver the second two screws were never installed and the bracket after months of use moves and drawer closing fails somewhat. Maybe check yours and fix the Oliver construction error. Hope Oliver Management reads this and speaks to the staff.

I had the same issue with my Honda 2000 generator blowing. Like @Tom and Doreen said you can change the setting on your Xantrex to lower the draw. Here is a link to the generator topic with instructions on how to adjust the setting.

Hull #435: I have had intermittent power issues with my front tongue jack. Many times getting ready to leave a campground and the darn thing just doesn't have power. It always started working again?? It seemed like after manually raising or lowering it all the sudden it was working again. I have checked the fuse, changed the switch, and still kept getting the intermittent issue. I assumed it must be an electrical short issue (which is always hard to find). With some help from my nephew who is an electrician I have finally solved the problem. The whole time it was a poor ground connection. I believe the ground connection was made through the metal tongue jack being bolted to the frame as the ground wire was coming from the top of the motor assembly. I ran a new ground wire and it now works perfectly. In fact the motor runs better than ever and the light is brighter! My last step will be to weather proof the hole I drilled for the wire to keep water out of the motor.

FYI those with later model 16” Sumec wheels. I checked an older photo I had from my 2021 E2 and can see weight rating is 3300 lbs. I cannot see the max pressure rating on the photo but will check next time I have the wheels off. Although not as beefy as the older 16” Sendel wheels, it’s re-assuring that they are more than adequate.

Sorry JD, I'm not even going to bite on that one..... Maybe you should re-read all 27? pages of that thread. LOL GJ

The Will Rogers museum is excellent and a terrific Harvest Host location as well! We were there last year around this time. Really enjoyed the museum, Will had quite the personality; we learned a lot! We had full use of the grounds after hours while overnighting there.

The OEM springs will keep you "soft and bouncy" and it will get worse with more miles. Running with more tire pressure, than the tire load tables spec, just isn't smart towing. Terrible roads in most states, NM worse than AZ! We traveled to Minnesota and back last year (still had D35 axles and OEM 1750 springs), headed east and a big loop NW and back. Kansas highways were amazing in excellent condition. Western Colorado surprised me as being very nice roads. Texas roads are good in most places. Most other places, you bouncy around, potholes and bridge seems that will bottom out the Oliver (if still on OEM springs). @Geronimo John went with Dexter 2400 LB rated springs to save $$$, not sure why else? My take, they're made with the same China steel and heavier weight does not mean they cannot fail structurally in the same way as the lighter model. Go with the Alcan 4-pack if you're OK with spending some more and want less spring. The Alcan 5-pack is perfect for us and I would NEVER go back! 😎 Like your last comment! I've had issues with the sanity of Design Engineers my entire life! 🤣

Yep, it's my understanding Oliver ran out of 3500lb axles & springs when they installed 5200lb axles & springs on #75. I can only guess the wheel & tire supplier made the mistake when supplying wheels for #75, we had the same original LT225/75R/16 Load Range E tires as many early LE2 Oliver owners. My plan is to replace the ION wheels with 15" Sendel S20T trailer wheels with ST225/75R/15 tires mounted. The original 16" ION wheel's finish are in poor condition after 11 years. Going to check where I can get the best deal, Discount Tire will match wheel/tire prices. My goal is to have the same size & capacity wheels/tires as the spare tire (remember smaller spare tire housing on #75) using the same 15" ST tires Oliver currently installs on LE2 trailers. I will only lose about 1/2" of ground clearance. GJ, the wheels & tires just got bumped to the top of the AFE list! 🙂 Appears to be legal changing trailer wheel/tire size if the change meets or exceeds the original wheel/tire capacities, but the ST tire has a lower speed rating compared to the LT tire. No one should be towing an Oliver close to the ST tire top speed anyway. https://www.rvtravel.com/is-it-illegal-to-change-tire-type-or-size-on-an-rv-rvt-1086/ Sendel 15" S20T (S20-56655T-2+) wheel's capacity is 3200lbs @ 95psi. https://www.sendelwheel.com/wheels/s20t.html

You can see from my truck I'm not afraid to stick out like a sore thumb 😅Thanks for not taking offense. Really I'm just figuring this out for myself, I wasn't designed to take things for granted. On the 1750's I was a skeptic, then mostly a convert, but its still pending taking data. Here I'm a skeptic of airing down, don't expect to convert, but also am waiting for data. I suspect I'll end up with 1750's and 65 PSI, but we'll see. Most likely is it's much ado about nothing regardless I wonder. Yeah personal experience towing back from the factory to California was two things. One the trailer did feel a bit soft and bouncy. Two, I'm quite sure I bottomed out the trailer suspension hard on numerous occasions. Arizona freeways in particular were pretty bad. Terrible porpoising around Albuquerque with bottoming, and hard bottom hits elsewhere. So bad you heard the slam. Anecdotally hand waving, but this makes me suspect a too compliant suspension. If you're worried about jarring, bottoming out is the equivalent of dropping the trailer on the ground with no suspension - high G. At any rate reality is a b*** and as an engineer I'll tell you even the engineers don't know. It's often as much experience and windage than having a hard result. Most of the time we do what's being discussed. Design with extra margin/buffer (e.g. higher rating on the suspension and higher PSI range than lower), then measure in typical conditions. If it looks good, cross your fingers, hope for the best and keep taking data 😅

Check it out. Ken’s wheel is also the SenDel brand. I remember a weight rating something like his wheel. Looking at my exterior picture, I'll bet ours is a SenDel as well. You can see it has a simple face without all the studs like the ION wheel. Hull #75 is certainly a special one-off Oliver! 😎

Here’s a photo of the inside of my original 2017 (hull 208) wheels. You can zoom in and see all of the specifications including the 110 psi pressure rating and load rating for the wheel! I took the picture when the trailer was new and filed it for future reference.

Good decision, Bill. Looks like you're upgrading in Load and PSI rating. I believe the ones you're buying are the 4th row on their website table, 15"x6" with a 6/5.5" bolt pattern. Big improvement at 3200 LB @ 95 PSI ratings! Not that we need a wheel that strong. That 60 PSI on the OEM wheels gets me. S20-56655T-2+ 101073 S1050-425CC / 46879 15X6 6/5.50 0 4.25 3200 @ 95 PSI

We were at the Will Rogers museum in Claremore, OK and found a kind unexpected hello greeting note under our windshield wiper from locals Kelley & Debi of Hull 1535. Thanks and hello back from Mary & Bill of Hull 1246 from Wisconsin. Be well.

Good thought, but also I believe the LBCO is for the inverter to prevent loading the battery too much - you get voltage rail droop on high loads. I know this because the factory incorrectly set it to 11.1V when it is supposed to be 12.1V. When I corrected that I was getting less simultaneous use (e.g. microwave and induction) out of the battery. From the manual for this particular battery So interesting, the inverter was off, presumably we’re at 12.0V/10%, but the battery was still on. I didn’t hit the switch, but I checked the lights which worked. Seems like NeverDie didn’t trip, maybe it was 10.X% and 12.05VDC or something, not sure, but seems like I was right on the border.

It’s got the DOT tag, but I need to look at it, I don’t keep Ollie at home.

This is the fact I got mixed up. I’m going to have to see what’s printed on our OEM wheels. So OTT put 60 PSI wheels on Hull #75 in 2015! Does your hull have a DOT sticker stating 80 PSI! Mine does.

John, The original 5 wheels on my LE2 were ION wheels with 60PSI maximum air pressure in the casting, following photo. I finally decided to install four 15" Sendel S20T trailer wheels replacing the original ION wheels next year, instead of refinishing the original ION wheels. https://www.sendelwheel.com/wheels/s20t.html This is the 15" Sendel S20T with Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R/15 tire on the right that replaced the original 16" ION spare wheel with passenger tire on the left, both fit in the smaller fiberglass spare tire housing that will not accommodate a LT225/75R/16 tire/wheel assembly. Bill

I'd say the shine on your Oliver looks great! 😂 I went with a local detailer, for the reasons you cited and cost (I paid 60% of the advertised CGI price). This was one experienced guy, running his own business, with very good references. He worked 2 weeks on ours, on and off between small jobs he had. Missed his promise date, because he wanted two more full days to get it right, NP! This before and after pic shows it all! 😎

Well said! The battery drops below 12 volts at about 0-5% SOC, and the never die is 10% SOC (greater than 12 volts) as calculated by individual cell voltage. The inverter dropout is around 10 volts. However as @Tom and Doreen stated, it would see less voltage, particularly with a load. The inverter will always have some load from voltage drop and just being on. So it seems like all is working well!