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Thanks Mike. That's the one. Sometimes it is nice to plant happy thoughts. I sent this to June:

Knee replacement was suggested for me by a local surgeon. I had fallen hard on my right knee as a teenager which caused bone spurs/arthritis over the years, first tore my meniscus playing tennis mid-90's and years of tennis and pickleball. I'm less of a biker and hiker, though I understand since mountain biking is so big here that it is very hard on the knees. The surgeon I met was only about replacement and not trusting him, I keep nursing my old knees. My knee locks up and I get jarring pain on occasion when playing which thankfully goes away as I walk it off and keep playing! PT videos from Dr Adam Fields on YouTube are very helpful. He has 100 videos on almost every body part and condition. This is the first I'm hearing that a full knee replacement has movement limitations! Perhaps you also had considerable ligament damage that needs PT correction. Chris and I know almost every senior in Prescott that plays pickleball (there are 100s), we also know a good 10 players that have knee replacements, some have both knees replaced and are playing pickleball again like having young knees. I hear from some that the pain after surgery is severe for 2 weeks. But there is certainly more knee movement in mountain biking than playing a racquet sport. Rob, I wish you the best and hope you store your Oliver just ONE season, get back to it next season when you work more PT and get back to full movement! My right shoulder is about as bad as my right knee. I was under the truck again, installing an A/C compressor yesterday. With maintenance you can take your time. You'll be able to work Oliver maintenance soon and I also hope you will enjoy your sports to the max asap!

After a life time of running, hiking, biking and walking finally wore out my left knee and just went through this myself 5 weeks ago today. I am healing up pretty well and walking over a mile each day and on some days up to 2.5 to 3 miles. It's much slower than my normal pace of course but even that is improving. Cycling currently is out of the question. My physical therapist have been awesome and very encouraging stating I am ahead of schedule by a long shot. What I am really concerned about is ongoing maintenance of the Oliver, climbing on ladders or scaffolds to wash and wax, crawling under for wheel bearing maintenance and the list goes on. Then there are long drives with knee in the same position which for me to this point can be quite problematic. So my question to the group for those who have gone through this how long before you were fully operable in terms of using your camper, Oliver or not? At this point I am actually considering the sale of ours and either downsizing or abandoning camping altogether due to the diminished mobility. My therapist said it's unlikely I would ever be able to get 140-150º of flex or range of motion which eliminates being down on your knees and completely bending over for many of the task and maintenance chores of RV'ing. Thanks for taking the time and look forward to any insight from the folks here. Rob

We went to Dream Cafe on Main Street in Grand Junction. It was good.

Very nice upgrades. We’re planning the Alcan upgrade, too!

SERVAL owners have done the same thing. We also have the first appointment of the day and will follow the lead. Where's breakfast there that seems to be a hit?

Agree. They are pretty quick. I don’t know which fridge you have, we left ours on propane. Probably should have switched to 12v, but the ALCAN guys didn’t seem to care. It was an open bay and they were done in a couple of hours. We drove over from James Robb State Park, dropped off at about 7:50, went to breakfast, walked around Bass Pro Shop and got a text just before 10:00 that they were done. We then drove down to Ridgway State Park near Ouray for a relaxing stay before heading down Highway 550 to Durango. Mike

Both Home Depot and Lowes carry Reflextic in fairly small rolls. For the battery door - I used foam board that I had laying around the shop. p.s. Foil tape can be used to secure the Reflextic to the door and/or to virtually anywhere inside between the hulls if you want to put your excess in there.

I used carpet tape and just some honeycomb insulation that came as packing in something we purchased.

Amazon carries it, but theirs is sometimes low quality and thin. I got some from an HVAC contractor/supplier for free. It is used for duct insulation and was much better quality.

Where to buy a small quantity of reflectix insulation? What type of adhesive should I use to keep it in place on the battery door and the cellar door?

From all the posts about Alcan, I don't recall any of their installs taking more than two hours. Likely your two additional food storage boxes will not warm up all that much if you just keep them in the shade. GJ

Finally getting to much needed upgrades on hull 994.

I measure the footprint of two Epoch 300s side-by-side to be 13.75" x 15.26" and the 13.75" is at the base, the handles will stick out 15.5" side-to-side. Do you have an extra inch behind the tray? If so, you could remove the tray, cut the rear steel wall off the tray, then reinstall the tray. This would fit two batteries in the tray, but the rear battery would hang 1" off the back. Both batteries could still be strapped in place. And you could add a 1/4" alum or poly sheet in the tray, under the batteries, measuring 14.75" x 15.26" the so that rear battery is fully supported. I thought of doing this when I upgraded to 3x 300 Epoch in our E2. But in the end was very happy to delete the heavy tray and get more headroom! 😎

Yea sorry, those Amazon links were questionable, so I updated that reply with a better link. 3-pin dc power connectors are typically switched, to disconnect a battery when an outside power supply is plugged in. Those Amazon knock-offs have a sketchy description, so without actually testing one there is no telling what they are. I buy parts from DigiKey. Look up Digikey part PJ-005B and view the datasheet. There is a schematic showing the Pin-2 to Pin-3 switch. They are under $3 at DigiKey plus shipping, Amazon sells them 5 for $18 with free shipping: https://a.co/d/04TQyt2M

I do not see where either of two choices have a built-in switch as described in the post.

We do have 15-30 amp dog one. I will ask them in morning and if it’s an issue we can unpack pretty quickly

It certainly is! They are so customer oriented, my bet is their answer would be, "Yes Sir, no problem!" (You have a 30A to 15A dog-bone, right?)

Edited to correct link. Here is an updated Amazon link: https://a.co/d/04TQyt2M

We are in Grand Junction at James Rob State Park. Appointment with Alcan in AM. This is the start of a 6 week trip and we have a refrigerator and freezer full of food. Wonder if it’s reasonable to ask to plug in during service. We have large cooler and can unpack.

Update: we've picked up our trailer, and - with the Anderson hitch set with top bolt in second bolt hole from top, the tailgate does not hit the hitch. Not even close to the aluminum box, even with the SeaBiscuit box added. Andersen setup is great, as is the SB box and "moose" chain hanger.

Thanks all. Will continue to ponder as we gather bugs and pollen on the current post-pickup Southern trip.

Can any provide a link to purchase the "“three pin” 5.5 mm female socket" described in this post? I'm referring to the one where the 3rd pin is switchable. Please email to rarebear.nm@gmail.com Thanks

Welcome fellow 2022'r :) Safe travels! John

Welcome to the group.