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Nice color!

We used a camp in teardrop trailer for 6 years. A casita trailer for 11 years and a imagine grand design for one year and now we're looking to get away from the imagine and purchase an Oliver

We have camped in every state, but not Hawaii

We have a 2022 and the same situation with the carriage bolt holes. One was so large the bolt would turn in the hole and was never fully tightened to spec at the factory. Had that bracket replaced at the factory under warranty.

Updating the original crack situation: We did end up taking the trailer back to TN for repair of the fiberglass under warranty.

Letchworth Valley Campground, NY

I believe I know what @Sweis talking but it's confusing since this is a thread regarding fiberglass cracks. (Bill, move to barker thread?) Barker makes the weld of the steel plate to the steel jack casing (center of pic). It does not appear to be as strong as the standard jacks like our front jack, but they engineered and welded it, so it should hold 3000#. I use them all the time to lift the wheels for all maintenance needs. The older hulls had aluminum mounts. This two-piece mount was a poor design and I replaced ours after it failed with a one-piece steel bracket, like OTT uses today. I have not read of the Barker weld failing.

Any chance of your getting a picture of the area you are talking about? Also, do you have a an Elite I or II? Bill

I have a 2021 hull. Piece of steel angle for the bracket to bolt to. Is the vertical bracket welded to the jack tube by Baker supposed to have a 3000 pound rating at that point? Other than that weld the Angle iron and bolts seem like they have enough capacity. Horizontal Square carriage bolt holes are a little big in the steel Angle iron.

It's likely climate. Those into "old cars" know that you want to buy something from the SW since they are mostly rust free. But if you need good plastic or rubber parts, you won't find them on the same car. You're in Oregon and we're in Arizona and that's the difference. I've changed the O-ring in every connector within one year of use. I purchased the dozen extra, so no big deal. When out I'll go to our local HW store for these O-rings so not to incur shipping costs for another Eley order. I also found that Eley is not good about answering emails (or web form inquiries) but their products are very good. I use the Tee most often to relieve pressure in the hose line to disconnect. Or to rinse my hands and splash water in my face which is near impossible in the Oliver bathroom sink! Or as you wrote "for another need" it is convenient.

I have been lucky, I have only had to place one O'ring over the years. I use Eley silicone grease on the Male fitting O'ring at the beginning of each season. I like the Tee on the 6" extension coming from the RV hose bib. Great when you need water for another need.

You're welcome. Bill

I purchased Eley per Patriot's recommendation about 18 months ago. They work great but the internal rubber O-rings stretch and go bad quickly (buy extras). I spent $270 with Eley (plus another $50 on the splitter, extensions and caps). We bring Camco 25' and 10' hoses ($60). The 10' hose is usually all we need at a campsite, both hoses together allows us to pump water from TV to TT when hitched. We must use rigid hoses vs. all those shrinkable kinds, since a rigid hose is required to suction water through the boondocking port. This is everything we need for camping, and yeah that's a lot of money, wow $380 total. I did not put Eley connections on the black tank rinse hose where we use a different hose. I also like these 6" extensions. They are likely the only part that is not good brass. You can find a stainless version. We don't worry since we don't drink from our tanks and lead in water affects children, not seniors. https://www.amazon.com/LIULO-TOOL-Hose-Protector-Extension/dp/B0FS1DM918/ The 6" extensions keep me from craning my neck under the hull and the fourth one connected to the splitter connects to the home or campground hose bib. You need a splitter to release pressure in the hose otherwise the Eley fittings will not easily disconnect. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSFP66NW/ I've gotten tired of the hose seals provided with most parts and these are more solid (rubber not silicone). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PG4BHHG/ These parts being so expensive, I could not see buying extras to cap off the Fresh, City and Boondocking ports. I just use 1" furniture leg caps. I had found white ones and they were discontinued. Now I use these simple black ones. They stay on nicely and if you loose one the 20-pack is cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KVSWXD2/

thanks @topgun2

We got lucky in that we had just sold a Class C, when I had said to Chris, "We need to find a travel trailer we like, something easy to tow and good on the backroads of Arizona!" Next day I opened prescott.craigslist.org and there she was, Hull #113. Where in Colorado? We travel through often, so perhaps we could meet up to buy that basket someday! Or come by Quartzsite the last week of Jan where about 10 of us Oliver owners get together. I've also got for sale 4 brand new Nev-R Lube hubs (complete with bearings and drums) and two sets of left-right brake assemblies (see pic), for those who like to travel with spare parts ready! Lastly, there's another current thread on the features of a 2027 or future Oliver! Take a look at Dean and Mary's signature under "After Market." Now that's a PLATINUM +++ Package! Why has OTT not considered/offered an integrated Victron package? We can look at the mods section to see that some 10+ owners have removed a working Xantrex inverter to replace it with a Victron Multiplus.

Nice place! Bill

Be careful out there on the way back to the "Mothership". See you soon. Bill

The Oliver Travel Trailer for Sale Facebook page is actually where I found and purchased my used 2022 Oliver Elite II. I really like the idea JD mentioned about having a dedicated used‑parts section. The Oliver Facebook page doesn’t allow used parts to be listed, and while Oliver parts can be posted on Facebook Marketplace, having a specific section or page just for Oliver accessories/parts would be a great addition. I have, for sale, the solid aluminum front basket you are looking for JD, but I am not interested in shipping it. I also have a working Xantrex 3,000 inverter, a Seabiscuit rear storage rack etc.... If only there was a place to list the used accessories.

Bandit’s Roost COE Wilkesboro NC, we like the lake and mountain drives, too.

This morning I hit the road east-bound... it's a sad day as I turn around after many weeks of joy in my Oliver. I'm looking forward to seeing many fellow Oliver owners in Alabama. Bon voyage to all who are Rally-bound! as seen on my way to dinner with family last night in Colorado....

I used Eley Hose quick disconnects. I have used Eley products for around 15 years. They are superb products although expensive. I used the hose leader as shown above to hook to the RV Hose bib. Then the other side is the Female Quick disconnect. I have 3 different hoses of differing lengths with the quick disconnect fittings on them. I have a 2 stage filter with dial pressure regulator and eley shutoff valve and Eley quick disconnects. Finally the city water, Fresh water, and boondock fill all have the Male disconnects on them. I removed the screw in stoppers and connected 1" rubber Chair leg Caps to the chains to seal the male quick disconnects. With all of the disconnects I am able to connect everything up in just a couple of minutes. I do have to lean over for about 10 seconds, but that's it. Sorry for the upside down picture. Just an Eley plug. We have 2 acres, and we bought 2 Eley hose reels with one with 175 ft hose and the other 200 ft. (My wife does want automatic sprinklers) I went through several $150 reels lasting a couple of years each before failing before finding Eley. All of my hoses have Eley shutoffs and sprinkler accessories all have Eley quick disconnects. Everything Eley is 5/8" inside diameter all the way through and my hose bibs are 3/4" with 1' pipe feed from the well. I have never had a problem with any Eley products. In the long run, I have saved money on not replacing hoses and reels on a regular basis.

another solution: quick release Many options for quick release parts are available. Below is an example. You should do your own research. Be sure to find solid brass without lead content. The parts I have are all brass, do not have O rings and have never leaked. https://www.amazon.com/VEASEER-Connect-Connector-No-Leak-Fittings/dp/B0B1DK7RRT/ref=asc_df_B0B1DK7RRT?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80195839596703&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=86946&hvtargid=pla-4583795319923287&hvocijid=3404890068333995373-B0B1DK7RRT-&hvexpln=0&th=1

Because of the location of the water fill connection I find it difficult to attach the typical RV water hose without cross threading it a few times. The hose is too flexible to get it aligned easily. The solution I found is a hose leader from DeWalt, it has a ridged section that makes alignment easier. The leader is not approved for RV water systems, so I don’t use it on the city water connection, it’s just to fill the tank. Before connecting, I purge it for a few minutes to hopefully remove any residual chemicals.

Not sure what a screen way up inside the pipe accomplishes. There's already a valve to keep critters from reaching the tank. A screen right at the outlet would make more sense, to keep wasps, etc. out of the tube.