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So you are saying that one does not need or should usle 60 PSI. But you use 40. Which is what I recommend as well. Just saying your quote above could lead more than a few of us astray. To be clear you and I both recommend 40 PSI. Right? GJ

When my tire pressure is too high and the ride a bit harsh, my mother-in-law starts complaining about the bumpy ride back there making her drop stitches on her knitting, which then upsets my wife, and when momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. Happy wife, Happy Life! Just set yer tire pressure so your MIL may knit in peace.

Tire pressure has been a well discussed topic. My trailer came aired at 80psi, max pressure on the side of the tire. I did that for a few years. Then, I went to 55psi. I think it was because that’s what the tire manufacturer recommended for the weight of my trailer. It’s been 6 or 7 years, so it could have been something else. Anyway, 55 has worked well. It does seem that there is less discombobulation of interior items, fewer times the window shades have come down and other small annoyances found at the end of a trip on bumpier roads. If max pressure feels right, then go with it! Mike

OK, but these OEM’s do vibrational test. At my day job where it’s a measurement device (not for RV’s) we do vibrational test and specification, there are stringent procedures for this, and often companies pay dedicated test houses. Let’s look at the Xantrex specifically as the most expensive and sensitive, according to search it conforms to UL 458. UL standards are very stringent, on the Lithionics batteries, to get UL they had to have two BMS’s in case one failed - that’s nuts No need to dig into the standard but there’s simply no way that a Oliver, with our upgraded suspension, with the build quality we all extoll, will destroy this thing at 50+ psi. I mean why are we all upgrading leaf springs and Dexter EZ-Flex if we have to air down. Make it make sense …

@DanielBoondock to me it’s not about the trailer itself. It’s about all the components inside, especially the electronics.

Well I think we have exhausted talk of tire pressures. Just put 45 to 55 psi in each tire and go camping and stop reading forums about tire pressures. HEHE Dropping mic now. LOL

I’m curious why people are worried about ‘beating’ their trailer? For these tires I’m reading Airstream forums where they’re running at least up in the 50’s-60’s with no issue, and those things can and will grind rivets out. The Ollie is a brick, the fiberglass is rock solid and non flexing, there’s no moving parts or dissimilar glued/screwed/riveted panels or parts like in conventional or Airstream. Also in those what can happen is the cabinets can loosen because they’re screwed in, but ours are part of the structure, and actually providing structure. This is all without talking about the frame, who has a two part steel/thick aluminum frame? Nobody I can think of. I guess I just don’t see the motivation to provide further cushioning, for the one trailer on the market that doesn’t need it, in exchange for greater wear and risk. Not trying to convince anybody but I’m just not seeing any reason for it.

Wow that’s a changelog! Technical Confusing user information, Neverdie cuts off at 10% so have remaining discharge time match, even though it still has reserve After a week of rain and some vampires I left on I found my inverter off and the battery at 10%, but the lights and 12V still work. That’s NeverDie in action I believe saving the last 10% for emergency. If I’d check the remaining discharge it would have said 10% when due to this it’s zero (except the 12V appliances still work, so not sure the thinking here Algorithm calibration improvement Automatically recalibrate the usable power based on a calibration of actual performance - nice! Edge case if battery is powered off for a long time how some things are calculated previous releases are here https://lithionics.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/folders/154000237109 This one is from 2024 so looks like now they’re not updating too often

Yep, I have been running 40PSI for a year or two. Believe my original wheels rated for a maximum of 60PSI are rare.

Please read again. This is the MAX PSI rating of the wheel. Margin being that he runs 40 PSI in the Oliver!

Spot on! I suspect most of us have the AFE concern as well. You sure made me smile on that one! GJ

60 PSI? Sure if they like to un-necessarily pound your trailer frame and contents. Oh and more recent, the not so good pounding to the battery box. I had to tell Cray Horse to mind his own business when he wanted me to mention what the spring selection can do in addition to the above. Oh my when will he learn....

Thank you for the visual presentation of tire pressures by the major tiret companies. We all should know our trailer tire loads and the tongue weights. Only the trailer tire weights should be used with your charts. For our OE2, with a total weight of 6,000 pounds and a tongue weight of say 600 pounds my four tires are carrying just 5400 pounds. That's 1350 pounds each. Of note in your charts not one of the mfg's have a weight/pressure anywhere close to what most of us are loading. Common practice therefore is to use the MFG minimum recommend tire pressure, either 35 or 40 PSI depending. I know we are all tire experts. Or are we? I run michelin's and the listed minimum for their chart is 40. Why is anybody running 50+ any more? I guess they are special and have more experience than the tire manufacturers. Or not. GJ

Didn't want a different hue, nor less light, just not direct light (but also good comments/ideas)! This solution allows for full light without direct exposure to your eyes. I've been asking our Pickleball center to shade their lighting in a similar way. We want all the light, just not staring in our eyes. You can lose the ball when your opponent hits a lob, like your playing outdoors in the sun! At home we have dimmers, but instead of dimming a 100W bulb, generally I'd rather replace it with a 75W or 40W bulb. I bought a cabinet full of GE Reveal incandescent lights before harsh LED lights is all you can find on the market (thanks climate nuts)! Adding a dimmer? Would there be a convenient location for the switch? This upgrade is the best cosmetic upgrade I've done for only $24, plus the cost of glue! 😎

Of course - another way of reducing these bright lights is to install a dimmer - 😁 Bill

Nifty solution. Lighting is everything, I'll post my Hue light solution here when I can get some pictures (the trailer is a mess as I reorganize) Not clear but did you put a cover on the end? Ideal solution would be to have a phosphor coated glass or plastic. Hue does this I believe, the LED's activate the phosphor which than readmits a broad spectrum soft light. But I'm not finding such a thing, probably has to be in a vacuum. However there are other solutions like this LightDims White Dims Self Adhesive Dimming/Softening Sheets for Harsh LED Lights Probably just an etched screen but something like that might help soften it

Six weeks later, after a lot of local camping this spring, I got the lamp shade installation done! 😎 Drilling 5 more of these, I found the large hole saw was binding hard. So I put the drill in reverse and it cut clean through the soft PVC in seconds, nice! I installed them over the Main Cabin and Dinette lights. I didn't want lamp shades over the beds, or the kitchen, since they are low enough and want the light to spread horizontally. So, we went with 6 shades total. I used the Gorilla Clear Grip that @Hokieman suggested above. The instructions state to apply glue to both surfaces, wait 2 minutes and connect, but it would be very difficult to apply glue to the Oliver ceiling! In a PM from Mike, he suggested putting glue on the shade part, placing it up on the ceiling to get a circle of glue up there, then remove it for 2 minutes and reapply. Great idea! I tested the glue first with two random PVC parts. The next day they held strongly together and after I broke the seal, the glue residue came off easily, cleaned up nicely, way easier than removing spent VHB tape. This will be a new sealant in my Oliver toolbox and I cannot believe I got a 3-pack on Amazon for $9! I placed the parts, eyeballing center with about 1/4" free-play, rotated the shade to spread the glue, spun off to remove and replaced each in two minutes, again rotating the shade until it felt firm. I did the next 3 Cabin Lights in series, 5 minutes for the entire job given the parts were prepped. On the first one, a little glue squeezed out. It was easy to remove excess glue merely rubbing with a paper towel while it was still pliable. The PVC parts have embossed model # lettering on the glued surface. I used a razor blade to remove the lettering to level the mating surface, but you can still see a hair of light coming through since the glue is clear. White glue would eliminate this but it's not bad at all. It's hard to take pictures of the shades on Main Cabin lights! The beautiful Oliver ceiling, still shiny at 10 years old, reflects like a mirror (see pics). In three years, we've only used the Main Cabin lights when cleaning or I'm working mods inside the Oliver. Now, we should use them often. And it will also be nice to sit down to dinner and not see that bright lamp glaring in front of Chris across the table. Basically the same amount of light is present, it's just not hitting us in the eyes anymore! 😎

Here’s some suspension p*rn of a shock absorber upgrade to a trailer with a similiar suspension. Except no Ez-Flex, which has a low compression puck. I’d expect the puck to be a low pass filter (e.g. absorb high frequency road tooth noise) Around 10:20 he has great views of the suspension in action. Just basic leaf springs and shocks are doing a lot of work here, looks like only higher frequency vibrational is making it to the trailer. And this oliver with basically no seams I think would just laugh at that. Especially the way they install everything, biggest danger is how you pack the storage.

For reference the specs on my new 2026 Goodyear Endurance ST225/75 15(E) 65 PSI cold press Cargo limit 1630 lbs Measured 60 PSI after a 4k trip, probably was 65 from the factory. Will check the spare, expecting 65 there. FWIW I’m not a fan of lowering pressure except for low speed offroad traction. At freeway speeds it just heats up and stresses the tire, it’s the suspensions job to absorb shock. The tires job is to provide traction and to a minor degree filter road surface tooth (high sidewalls biggest component of this). If the suspension performance isn’t up to your expectations then that should be addressed with springs and shocks. And before doing anything it should be measured before and after, on the leaf spring thread I discuss a simple way to do it with your phone. Finally, the tire has a sidewall warning “TIRE FAILURE DUE TO UNDERINFLATION …” Anyhow, to each his own, I won’t criticize anybody’s ride. From the drivers seat it rode fine from the factory so I’ll keep it at 65 psi.

They come in 16's

Only thing I can find on the wheel is maximum pressure, not capacity. It’s probably in the operators manual. We have put many miles on these wheels, but for full disclosure, if we replace them and someone wants them, I have to post the maximum pressure. It’s going to be next year before I start on the wheel/tire project. Actually have two more Ollie projects before the wheel/tire project, I know it's easy to replace wheels/tires, but it's also according to $ available for AFE (authority for expenditure) projects, that's what we called them on the Railroad. 🙂

It wasn’t changed in 2016, we have the smaller spare.

Do they also print a weight rating? The OEM wheels are rated for 80 PSI, but 60 is all you need with margin. The OEM wheels are weight rated, don’t remember exactly, but the 4 added to 11K+, so with D52, Alcan springs on Load E tires and OEM wheels, it’s only Oliver frame capacity keeping these from being actual (not legal) 10K GTWR! I would hope the frame is also over-engineered! If it were me (not me, since our wheels living in the dry SW are very nice after 10 years), I’d buy these on Tire Rack, choose tires, have them mounted and Hunter Road Force balanced, shipped as a unit, 2-year hazard protection and shipping included! Then nothing easier than changing a ready-mounted wheel on an Oliver! https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/brands/sendel-towable

Here are the release notes for the current version, didn't see anything about earlier versions. Probably only meaningful to techies: https://lithionics.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/154000170433-firmware-release-v1-1-11-and-v1-0-11-for-the-internal-bms-batteries#:~:text=This firmware is-,specific,-to smaller batteries

My working life was in measurement equipment for NASA, three letter agencies and other spooky groups 😅 It would be interesting to see it broken in frequency bands. For whatever reason I suspect we’d see a response shift. Basically the suspension is a filter and we’re changing the parameters Anyhow I found a top drawer shop locally that specializes in trailer suspension so I’ll do it here this year, pending your data. I recommend a low hard surface like the floor to capture the from suspension output. Vibration might increase further up, and we want to avoid induced response from dirtying the signal. Might not matter either and we’re looking for order of magnitude anyhow but will be interesting Best of all is taping it to the frame directly if you’re comfortable with that