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Here's the direct link Bulldog HD Shock Absorber Replaces 555001 For Trailer Leaf Spring Retro Kit Oh my goodness $39.38, something cheap for a change (yeah need four - or eight? Four I think)

From another thread about the X23 2027 model, the offroad version includes (drumroll) 😊 Four or five leaf? Five I'll guess. Good for Alcan this is a regular business for them. Well that's good enough for me, I'll order my set before too long. I went through most of the thread but don't recall a link or specs for the bulldogs, can anybody provide a link?

Ah just noticed the spec sheet link above Why in the heck is this CHEAPER than the Platinum Pro I got? Probably because the base battery is 400Ah and it doesn't include extra goodies. Fully specced it'll be up there Power is now the EcoFlow. I like the control box. Not super fond of fancy displays They listened to the peanut gallery "Bulldog HD Shocks & Alcan Leaf Springs" 😊 Four or five leaf springs? 48V Houghton AC Flex solar is cool. Problem is getting to use it, I'm usually either in shade or there's too much wind How in the heck does the Pro have a 1,360W solar? It must come standard with the solar Girard On the 2027 they made a bunch of changes I like the stainless sink - kind of wish mine had that instead of molded in. I might do that mod Why is the bluetooth speaker back by the stove? On my recommendation they moved to the TV - you don't want a speaker in the heat. This was probably in proto before that mod, or maybe they did that just for me? This goes back to the framed in window shades. I love my roller shades fwiw, the trim color valances add a lot of nice design. Looks like a 2026 model only, too bad I think its an improvement I think @jd1923 made this mod? Unfortunately the dinette isn't really that comfortable any way you cut it Well anyhow glad to see them adding models. Fortunately I don't have buyers remorse, I'm upgrading to Alcan/Bulldog myself, and in theory I could upgrade to Girard solar too. But with 220 kWh on the truck with 10kW available to the trailer I don't need any extra solar. Before somebody asks - no a 1.3 kW panel won't charge the truck worth beans.

They dropped a video this morning, mainly just advertising splash FWIW my opinion so far Color scheme: Not my taste. The black trim will take more sun damage and takes away from the elegance of the design language. It's a hard black and white which is way to constrasty, if they could have gone with a softer black it would work but I think the windows set it to a hard black. Also black shows up scratches and dirt like nobody's business. That black AC will absorb heat and age faster Fully opening window: From a 2026 owner; a step backwards. I can't tell you how easy and convenient it is to crack the bedside window at night. The sliders would be more challenging I think, and this one, you'd have to get your hand around the window shade and push it somehow, assuming the levers are open. I really don't understand why people want a fully opening window, it doesn't offer anything new 48V system Been in a lot of discussions of this because the Cybertruck went 48V. My engineering opinion; it doesn't offer you anything. The only technical improvements are thinner battery cables and better power/torque delivery for motors. But they will still have to supply 12V as not every device will support 24V, and for the 12V cig ports. So it'll be a stacked/split system, mostly likely they'll just also have a series 24v connection to the battery, and split 12V rails for those. I could see the power jacks benefiting, assuming a 48V system. Oh maybe the inverter too - that would be more efficient. Who knows, maybe 48V lets them get to a 4k inverter which honestly would be nice (Xantrex doesn't have one AFAIK though) Offgrid tires Look cool, but probably lower efficiency, harder to replace (?), and since they don't provide motor traction of limited use. Cost: Probably $$$, I kind of doubt they'll have all those parts in black from the supplier

Yes Toni, The newfoundland route is usually done via a ferry from one of the Québec ports or from an island hop when in the Atlantic maritime provinces. But how can someone venture around Newfoundland and not visit Labrador, if we are that close. We have researched this TQH & TLH route extensively and believe it is doable. it may have some challenges along the way, but we have learned slow & steady gets us there. We learned a lot up in the NWT on the way to and from TUK. We look forward to the adventure. And will report back upon our return. B~Out,

After many attempts finally got the thing to work but only after I used both the blue - and green/yellow ground wires connected together and to the negative black terminal of the Fogatti WH. The device would not work using either the blue or green/yellow wires individually connected to black wires of the Fogatti. So apparently it would be better to connect the green/yellow wire to some metal portion of the trailer, correct? I should add once operating the Fogatti worked great.

I looked at the Suburban manual, it shows a wall switch with Fault/Reset light on the blue wire. That would cause voltage drop! Use the green/yellow wire for negative ground, and you should be good to go. Let us know if that’s what you have. Cheers, Geoff

Here is a link to the emergency valve stems. Bill

Understood good luck with JD. The HW switch I am referring to is the one remote switch that Oliver installs on the interior not the switch at the new WH. IOW's I'm still confused. Thanks for trying though. Thus far nothing is connected to the new WH other than the propane. I am trying to figure out which wires to connect to the new WH. Many thanks.

Rim design really has the stems on the edge, sticking out. Got to be careful with the steel ones too!

That is different. I'm on jury duty lunch break, this will be quick. The WH switch I assume is a remote switch. It likely is a specialty switch with some resistors or such causing a voltage drop, some LEDs will do that. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that suburban unit. You will probably need to replace the switch for the new WH. Check the old switch for internal resistance with an ohm meter. Good luck and let us know what you find

I probably did not explain my situation thoroughly @Snackchaser. The old Suburban is completely out of the Oliver, AC wires are taped off and disconnected. When measuring the remaining 12 volt wires they have not been connected to anything yet. If measuring with the HW switch off, crickets, I get nothing other than small microvolts. The switch has to be turned on to obtain anything close to 12 volts +. So if I connect the red + wire and the blue - wire to the new Fogatti it will only receive 12.2 volts of input. That amount of DC current is not enough to effectively run the Suburban furnace based upon past experiences and it might have a negative impact on the new WH with only 12.2 volts. Or am I missing something? Thanks

You are measuring volts with WH switch on, which means your measuring the voltage drop of the internal WH electronics. Disconnect the red, and volts should be 13.7. The yellow/green wire is a non-current carrying ground due to the AC aspect of the WH, so it does not see the electronics voltage drop. All seems normal. Cheers, Geoff

So I am finishing up the install of a new water heater, tankless version to replace the old Suburban. Retrofitting into the Oliver is NOT an easy task but more on that later. So on the old Suburban there are 3 12 volt DC wires connected to the 12 volt terminals, red for +, blue for -, and yellow/green for ground. However when I measure the voltage across the wires with HW switch turn on, the red to blue measures only 12.2 volts but when I measure the red to green/yellow @ ground I received the full SOC of my Epoch batter which is 13. 7 ± volts. The new Fogatti tankless only uses two DC wires, red and black, and no AC connection at all. I am inclined to think in my case to use the red and green/yellow wire for the full DC voltage available to me. Can anyone explain why the red to blue wires only return a reduced voltage of 12.2 volts DC? My gut instinct is the wiring was done incorrectly at the factory build swapping the negative terminal for the ground but this is just a stab in the dark not being totally versed in DC electronics. Thanks and appreciate any insight on this.

New steel stems. Installed on all tires. $6.00/tire installed. The journey continues on...

If you have a tire pressure monitor added to the stems excessive flexing caused by the weight of the sensors will fatigue the rubber portion. Plus today’s rubber products sometimes seem to weather rot more quickly. I was lucky in that I never had a stem failure in the seven years before I replaced my tires and changed the stems to nickel plated brass stems. In any event, it would be a good idea to carry emergency replacement stems. I carry these that can be replaced from the outside. Even the metal ones can be hit by a rock or other road trash and be broken. Thankfully I’ve never needed to use them!

He did, on the Facebook Oliver group: John Koss says: ”#18 here, have been doing as much hiking here as possible. I live nearby so lots of running back and forth to graduation and grandkids soccer games. I do come occasionally for birding week. I find the bird enthusiasts more interesting to watch than the birds!” I was there for the big week back in the late ‘80s before it got to be such a huge production. I’m not sure I’d want to be anywhere near there the next two weeks!! 😵‍💫 Not quite as productive, but less known Old Woman Creek is only about 20 miles from me, vs 80 for Crane Creek.

Prior owner had installed steel valve stems on the Oliver, always been good. When I upgraded the truck with 3rd Gen Dodge wheels, I mounted with steel stems. Neither stem should fail, unless there is something about the wheel design, how the machined opening for the stem could be an issue cutting into the rubber. Question is, was the stem physically damaged or replaced because for leaking.

Hopefully they will respond to your post. I've been to the "Biggest Week in American Birding" only once, and I will never forget it! https://www.biggestweekinamericanbirding.com/

That is my initial question, as well -- but materials science is rapidly changing. As an example, "Organic solar cells are made from very thin layers of carbon-based (organic) materials, usually only about 100 nanometres thick. Originally designed as an inexpensive alternative to silicon-based solar panels, they are flexible, lightweight, and more sustainable than other options. Unlike the OPV film-based version, organic photovoltaic textiles can be stitched onto fabric, giving them greater application potential, such as the tensile fabric architecture of canopies and sails." -- https://perfectsenseenergy.com/solar-fabric/

Oh boy. Same year (2022 Oliver LE2) and same tire for me, and I just experienced a tire stem failure a week ago. Didn't think to ask to see the stem after the repair, to ascertain the type of failure. Also I didn't know there would be options on the type of stem to replace it with, but now I feel my other tires might be suspect. Right now, my spare (previously un-used) is still on my Oliver -- not sure if that is a good or bad thing. I will be watching your thread here for other info.

Do you have TPMS sensors mounted on your rubber stems? When I got the TST TPMS I also had my rubber stems replaced with metal stems. That was about 100K miles ago and no problems. I think replacing your rubber stems is the way to go. Mike

On the road for a couple months and I have had two tire stem failures within a two week period. The rubber stem on both failed with similar 1/8" to 1/4" horizontal failures. Replacing with steel stems during repairs. Cooper Discoverer HT3 tires on 2022 Oliver II at 50 psi. Causes? *Bad luck, *Tire brand, *Tire age, *PSI, *Tire Pressure Minder, *Rubber stems, *Mountain curve roads, *Driving speed, *Life... Thoughts and wisdom?