All Activity

The pump setup seems a little overkill. Why do you need a macerator for pumping grey water? A simple 12 volt water pump can be had for under $50. As far a lighting goes I would look at GOVEE. They have 12 volt solutions and are much less expensive. Don’t get me wrong, I love HUE lights. I have them throughout my home but they aren’t really made for a mobile solution in my opinion. My .02 John

For the composters out there … what about that black tank, can we move grey to black? Experiment … Shopping list Flojet Macerator Pump 18555-000A - 12V DC Waste Pump for Camper/RV RESTMO Water Flow Meter with Brass Inlet Twinkle Star Hose Filter Attachment Line Water Hose Filter Water hose quick connects Garden hose Goal: Transfer from grey to black utilizing the black flush out inlet port. I’d rather not make more drastic changes to the trailer so let’s see if this works Attempt #1 The pump comes with a quick switch which is handy, its sitting near the Jackery. I got a 12V cig line and used the included pump battery alligator clips to attach to that. Results: Unsuccessful, the Jackery 12V kept turning off so I kept hitting the 12V switch. The flow meter showed no transfer, but water did flow. The pump was running and the orange hose did fill up with water, but it seemed there was little transfer occurring. First I tested the flow meter to see if it was working on a fresh water outlet, it’s fine so there’s just not much flow happening. OK, so I got a 120VAC-12VDC adapter I had handy and used the 120V on the Jackery (you can see the adapter there) but that was even less successful. Conclusion: Probably not enough power. Now how can I get more power into this pump? I looked at the truck, nah too much trouble and maybe not enough line. Do I have a spare battery around? How much does the 12V outlet on the truck supply? I’ve got 7kW out the back (electric truck), maybe a higher power inverter? Or how much can the Oliver 12V cig sockets output? I looked up musing on this problem, looked at the side of the trailer, and wondered “how many engineers does it take to change a lightbulb?” The answer was right there in front of me, embarrassing, the pump even comes with battery alligators …. 🤯😅 Attempt #2 Success! The flow rate seemed a little low compared to the rated GPM. I took a video and will calculate, maybe the resistance through the cleanout jets reduces it. In theory this will stress the pump, but it’s not something being used all the time and I kept an eye on how warm the pump got. Seemed fine … So I’ll take this as a viable solution. Far less space than hauling along a today. There was no solids being caught by the filter. I try to keep solids out of the grey but anyhow not an issue. Good enough for today, I closed up shop Future direction: the only problem is having a neat solution. The lines are filled with residual water you don’t want around the campsite. A bucket (I have a collapsable with lid that’ll work great), or no leak quick connects (if such a think exists) maybe too. KISS, I think I like the bucket solution better. Overall it’s a small tidy package. The whole thing can be stored in the bumper if you take the pump out of its case. But it’s a really nice case with real latches, so I keep that in the back storage and the rest of it in the bumper.

We do not know yet... - What inverter/battery setup is installed in this LEI? - Will it still work on Shore Power? (if so, then not a CGFI issue) - Error codes? If so, then the usual Xantrex settings issue, but @Lamar made no mention of a failed startup, just no power. - Is the induction cooktop wired to the inverter circuit? To be or not to be!

Sorry, missed that. This is an odd problem, to be sure. Could the cooktop be tripping overcurrent protection on the inverter? Do any error codes appear on the Xantrex display? Does the cooktop have varying power levels? Will it work on a low setting?

Your first picture is very dark, so it's hard to see how it broke and what's left there. If you have can physically connect this Sharkbite female adapter, have enough PEX on both sides that would be great. You need the PEX on both sides to be cut square with minimum 3/4" length to attach Sharkbite fittings. If there is not enough PEX on the water heater side, the broken PEX must be removed (get Sharkbite PEX removal tool to push in the collar) and a new short piece of new PEX must be added. This kind of failure is odd and at the same time your kitchen faucet is stuck!

Hey I just got it and already did a Tennessee trip this year! 😅 Anyhow still working, close to retirement so one big trip is all that can be managed

Lamar, the GFCI under the dinette should power ALL your AC outlets in line. Plug something into the outdoor outlet (or the one above the kitchen sink) and trip the GCFI under the dinette. The other AC outlets should then ALL be OFF. @topgun2 Bill suggested this in his comment. However this is NOT your main issue re your induction cooktop. If the induction cooktop is on a GFCI circuit it should be wired to an independent GCFI (not that outlet under the dinette). And if your induction cooktop works on Shore Power, then GFCI is not your issue either. I see you have a Legacy I. What inverter and battery setup do you have? I hate to think that what @Steve and MA wrote is correct in that OTT did not wire your induction cooktop to your inverter circuit. If you have the Xantrex 3000, all 120VAC circuits should be wired to it, but not so with a lesser 2K inverter. Wow, if this is the case, OTT should have installed an LP cooktop instead! You wrote that your microwave works on inverter. Given all this is true, you need to get this corrected for the long-term. (OTT wired several things in very strange ways in our hull, so I have rewired everything!) Not the right time while boondocking, but I have a short-term on-the-road fix for you! 😎 First be OFF shore power and turn your inverter OFF. This ensures there is no 120VAC in your hull, so you can safely rewire the AC power panel. You can do a quick fix in your breaker box! Do the following at you own risk (I would do it)! Remove the breaker box cover and remove the breaker labeled for your inverter. Loosen the front screw and pull the black wire free (the hot). Do the same for the microwave breaker. Replace the hot for the induction cooktop into the breaker for your microwave. Now you have induction cooking on inverter but your microwave will not be powered. You could wire both hots to the microwave breaker, if you want to use both on inverter. However if you do so, it would not be wired "to code" and you'll only want to use only ONE appliance at a time. However, if you turned both ON at the same time, the breaker would merely trip, no big deal. If it was me and I found it to be TRUE that OTT did NOT wire the induction cooktop to the inverter circuit 😒, I would get this done in 10 minutes just in time for breakfast! 🤣

What service was done?

I am Boondocking. When I turned the pump on for water, the red pex outlet pipe broke away from the connection to the hot water heater. I have attached a picture of that and attached what I bought to fix it. Was hoping someone could let me know if I am on the right track.

I do not have your type of faucet in my trailer or home. However, these faucets virtually all have a cartridge inside and it appears to me that there is something stuck inside that. I'd look at your manuals to see what cartridge it uses and how to disassemble the top of the faucet in order to get to it. Good luck! Bill

The lever on my kitchen faucet will move from side to side, but I cannot pull the lever towards the sink to allow water flow. I don’t want to force it. It worked when I winterized IMG_2389.mov the camper two months ago and I just had the camper serviced. But the kitchen faucet lever seems to be locked and will not come forward.

This suggests the inverter doesn't supply power to the induction cooktop. If that's the case, I have no idea why Oliver would wire wire it that way. I know that in older models, the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter did not power the air conditioner, but not powering an induction cooktop by design doesn't make much sense. Steve

Did you have your inverter turned on? If you're on batteries with no shore power you need the inverter on to create 120VAC electricity for the cooktop.

While the outlet itself may not be GFCI, it almost certainly is on a circuit that is GCFI controlled (i.e. is a slave off a GCFI). I'd suggest that you keep checking for another "tripped" GCFI. Bill

Ok, I started my generator and now my True Induction Stove Top works. Am I missing something?

Generally speaking -- posts like this amaze me. We have a great base of knowledge and know-how here on the forum. Thank you to @Snackchaser and all of our great forum members present and past.

Snack Chaser, thanks for the response. I found the buttons on the USB outlets. Didn’t know they were there and they all work. Good to know. All of the outlets that I can find work. There is one GFCI that I found near the floor in the forward dinette that was tripped. But after resetting it the induction stove still is not working. The one outlet outside is not GFCI. I’m going to hook into shore power again to see if by doing that the stove will turn on. I have both a generator and a 30 amp connector nearby for this morning yet. Lamar

I remember. Our little community is festooned with flags lining the streets. Let us never forget.

I see where many have viewed this thread and thus, wondering if anyone else, other than a few others, have tried using a Cielo with their unit and what the results were. It would be good to know of any success with other unit brands, especially Truma, Houghton and Dometic; or even the newer inverter style units.

The Boerne Community Concert Band performed a concert in the town square yesterday evening. All patriotic songs, marches and songs of each branch of service. Also a nice rendition of Taps for our fallen heroes. It was a good turnout, lots of camping chairs and good weather. Small town USA. Happy Memorial Day! Mike

A day to remember and a day to not forget.

I use one of these to make quick work of finding wires- Tone generator and wand.

Lamar, sad to hear of your troubles! I have no idea how those stoves are wired, but they should be GFIC protected (Ground fault interrupter circuit). Those can trip for numbers of reasons. It could have its own GFIC receptacle under the cabinet somewhere, or it could be fed from an another GFIC receptacle. I'd check all the AC receptacles to see if they are GFIC and if they are tripped. Don't forget the one above the kitchen counter and the outdoor plug. If you find one tripped that won't reset, let us know for further investigation. Also check the AC wiring diagram in your manual, it should show whether the stove circuit is GFIC protected, and give clues where to look. The stove wouldn't be related to the 12v outlets. If you're talking about the USB outlets, they might have a tiny pushbutton switch on the front of them. The cigarette lighter type of 12v outlets are notorious for having the wire terminal pop off the back, but unlikely for that to happen to both of them. If the fuse is okay, then I'd take a close look at whatever you're testing them with. Good luck and let us know what you find. Geoff

We took possession of our new 2026 Legacy I in about April. Spent most of the time learning the systems and getting ready for our trip to Utah where we plan to do mostly Boondocking. We did one trial run overnight close to home to get the feel for things but we were tied into shore power. We were planning on a second unhooked but storms rolled and we had to leave. Tonight is night one on the 2 week long trip and we are boondocking. The True Induction Stove top will not turn on. It did turn on when we were hooked to shore power when we did the trial run. I am using a lodge frying pan, making sure we have the right material on the stove top. But there are no lights coming on the cooktop. I checked the breaker and it appears ok (knowing they can go bad and you can’t tell until you replace them). The inverter seems to be working as the microwave/convection oven works. The batteries appear to be above 90%. It’s gonna be a long 2 weeks without a stovetop. I don’t know if this is related but two 12 v receptacles on the street side do not appear to be working either. I’ve checked fuses but they seem to be fine. Any insight would be appreciated. I’ll also put a ticket in, but I’m sure Oliver is closed until at least Tuesday because of Memorial Day. Lamar Hull #1687 Also, for Veterans, their families, and those who lost someone they cared for in the military…I trust this Memorial Day, Remembrance Day, or Decoration Day will be meaningful to you.

Good idea! You could, but isolate it from the TV so you don't end up with a back-feed condition. Just use a DPDT switch wired to break the TV circuit while energizing the back-up lights from the trailer battery, and vice-versa. Geoff