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Nice Job. Interesting revisit John E did an amazing job- I did JD's mod - and was really happy with the results, but honestly the biggest bang is between the TV and the Ollie. I have a bunch of ideas for this - being a bit of a Macgyver myself but having gotten out the scene for a few years - went to the back burner. As that will soon change, I will have to revisit. Again, good to see another take on the issue.

Townesw: Thanks for the tip. I neglected to mention that water was actually flowing from the overflow tube when the trailer shifted, yet the bowing/damage still happened. Our 2022 hull #1291 has a 1/4" plywood cover over a hole in the location you described. I plan to remove it and verify if there is an obstruction of the overflow tube. That said, I still plan to monitor the fresh tank sensor when filling, regardless of what I find!

I have seen that "rock" before. Well maybe its companion. So great to hear of the new adventures planned in your new Ollie. If you make it down to the rally and would like a spot on the way or after, we are just up the road, lot of space and a site if your so inclined. We would luv to have you -Just message me - I around. Enjoy.

Great to hear the initial "break in" is going well. Honestly, it does take a little trial and error to get comfortable with the valve configurations. Interesting choice on the reg toilet, vs the composting toilet, as the APEX is skewed towards the non-facilities spots. Took a real hard look at the Apex, and really like the blacked-out style, although I don't understand the tire choice, it is a great looking rig overall. Seems the II is a better fit for our future RV needs. Hope your journey continues to be all that you imagianed.

I would replace the one, put the spare on opposite side of the same axle. Put the other two best on the other axle. The most visible worn tire in as spare. Unless the tires have been in full sun, in the desert (say Phoenix), generally good until 6 - just inspect them regularly. Now the caveat - if I was headed out on a long-term trip - months, and headed up to AK, and beyond, different story. Do you run tire pressure monitors?

While camping this week I noticed a slight sidewall bulge on my streetside rear tire. I just replaced all my tow vehicle tires so was not excited about buying more tires right now, but a sidewall bulge is never a good thing. I have the Goodyear Endurance ST tires on my Oliver and with the trailer only 3 years old and less than 10,000 total miles on the trailer, I was disappointed in the tire longevity/durability. I have been running about 55 psi in the tires as a compromise on ride quality vs tread wear/mileage. I know some of you run even less pressure to save the springs, but lower pressures do stress the sidewalls more. I then looked closer and the date stamps on the tires are late 2021 so the tires are actually about 5 years old, not 3 and 5 years is about the life of a trailer tire. So despite low miles and inside storage, I am leaning toward replacing all 5 tires (including the spare) and increasing my running tire pressure some. I abhor the idea of changing a streetside tire along the road on a trip after a blow out. What would you do? And don't assume your tires are the same age as your trailer.

When I first saw the title of your post I thought you were fighting the dreaded No-see-ums that get past the screens. I would second, or third, the recommendation to get CGI to do a ceramic coating for you. They really are experts and outstanding young men with an awesome work ethic. The two products that I got from them for after care are 1.) Ceraglo - soap to wash and 2.) Shine & Shield - to use after washing... it helps to keep the ceramic coating fresh. CGI will be at the rally and would be happy to inspect your trailer and give you a quote on ceramic coating. Scotty

@Rivernerd Remove the drawers on the left side of the drawer stack under the kitchen sink. Look for a hatch plate in the bottom of the cavity. If you have one you should be able to remove the overflow tube to check for and remove any obstructions. The service dept cut that hole and installed the hatch in May 2018 when I suspected that the hose clamp on the through-hull fitting was loose. I have on my to-do list (still) to enlarge that opening to allow easier access to that area between the hulls. I think the factory started placing that access hatch in trailers built after that. Bill 2018 Hull 313

Dean this is very helpful. unfortunately i left my volt meter that i normally carry in the trailer at home but i will try to manually raise the hitch jack with the hand crank tool and then go into town and buy a cheap voltmeter at an auto shop so I can check the batteries. i have lithium ion batteries. and then check voltages from there. i will check the manual and look for wiring diagram. maybe someone at this camp ground has a voltmeter.

Wow, I’m really sorry this happened. I’ve heard of similar issues with other trailer brands when there’s little or no effective overflow outlet. That’s why most trailers are filled using a flex‑hose insert—to let air escape properly. With the direct connection on our trailers, it’s difficult to manually fill at the inlet and allow that air to escape. In your case, it sounds like the overflow tube may have been restricted, or the incoming water volume and pressure simply exceeded what the overflow tube could handle. Thanks for sharing this experience. And again, I’m sorry you had to deal with it.

Electric RV jacks almost always have a manual method for raising and lowering them in the event of dead batteries. The connection point is located on top of the jack, and the trailer includes a tool designed specifically to operate it.

I should have started by asking whether you have voltage at the batteries, and then whether you have voltage at the input side of the 60‑amp breaker. A voltmeter will help immensely. It could even be something simple—like lithium batteries that were accidentally switched off. On my trailer, a 4‑gauge cable runs directly from the batteries to the 60‑amp breaker, and that circuit is independent of the heavier‑gauge cable feeding the inverter. I can double‑check in the morning, but I’m fairly sure the wire going to the converter is connected before the 60‑amp breaker, which would mean the breaker isn’t the issue. I hope this doesn’t add to the confusion. Dean

Dean, jacks do not work. i cannot get the trailer of the truck hitch. i did flip this 60V and it did not fix the problem. i wonder if i can over ride it or maybe it needs to be replaced. i am wondering if I can manually lower the hitch jack so I can at least unhook the trailer from the truck.

Imelda, The 60‑amp circuit breaker under the street‑side bunk also supplies power to the jacks in my trailer. Do your jacks work? If they do, then move on to the converter—located under the dinette in my unit—and check the fuses there. If the jacks don’t work, the breaker is most likely the issue. Dean

I hope this issue has not previously been addressed on the forum. I could not find anything on this topic with a search. So, here goes. I have always assumed that the fresh water tank in our 2022 Elite II could be filled until water flows out of the overflow tube underneath the fridge, regardless of the fresh water sensor reading. This approach is recommended on p. 61 of our 2022 Oliver Owners Manual: "fill until water starts to run from the freshwater overflow..." I have regularly done just that with no issues--until a few days ago. When filling the fresh water tank, the aisle floor bulged upward, the entire trailer shifted to the curb side binding the door, and then, with a loud CRACK, the backsplash on the sink side of the galley countertop separated by about 1/2" from the fiber granite countertop, because the corner of the countertop near the sink was sloping toward the curbside! After we recovered from the shock, my wife and I immediately ran fresh water (via the pump) into the gray water tank through the galley sink until the trailer shifted back into equilibrium. Fortunately, this enabled the aisle floor to level out again, the door to unbind, and the countertop to slowly rise up again to meet the backsplash, so the two once again line up. When we get home, I plan to re-caulk the joints that separated, and carefully inspect for any additional damage. So far, all appears to be "back to normal" while we continue our extended trip. Lesson learned: despite what is recommended in your Owners Manual, monitor the fresh water tank level when filling, and once the sensor reads close to 100%, SHUT OFF THE WATER! DON'T WAIT FOR WATER TO FLOW FROM THE OVERFLOW TUBE!

Picked up our Apex two weeks ago and have been in it every night - so far, so good. We planned to spend 3 weeks straight to learn and work out any bugs (very minimal issues so far) Pros - A dream to tow & bike mount has been solid/Eco flow display easier to learn that anticipated/battery re-charge amazingly fast/Houghton AC quiet and have ran all appliances (simultaneously) and some “faux” boondocking on the 48 volt DC system w/ no issues. It has been wonderful to arrive at the campsite with 98% battery every time. Overall love the attention to detail and quality of the design. Dinette cushions (backs) could be improved and wished they would have included the solar suitcase connection. Cons: Black/Gray tank indicators don't really warn you of a full tank, but the toilet gurgling and the shower backing up are sure indicators 🙂 I haven’t attempted filling the fresh water tank yet (to be honest I am intimidated by the multiple valves under the bed - wish they were labeled but thankful for the poster size diagrams on the compartment cover. Our background: Previous tent camper, then a Casita circa 2000s, and Airstream owner. So far impressed with the Oliver overall operation (Airstream could learn from Hohenwald orientation and pick up) and while tempted by the new Casita double axle trailer (significant price difference) the Apex is a well designed trailer and we have no regrets.

i did find the fuse but unless the fuse is bad i flip it on and off but didnt seem to solve the DC power problem i. the trailer. i don’t have a meter to test the fuse.

ii am at a camp site. tomorrow i will look for this.

My 2021 model has a 12V 60A circuit breaker under the street side bunk.

the ac power is good microwave is working and ac outlets but no lights and refrigerator and ac not coming on

oliver 2 year 2020

Which year and model of Oliver are you asking about? Mossey

ac shore power turns on microwave and turns on outlet but not lights. i know there fuse blown somewhere but where?

Todd B - If you are still in the Teton area be sure to look up "Elk Ranch" road. It is located north of your campground, is on your right as you travel north and is easy to get into and out of even when towing your Ollie. Great views of the Tetons are available here without dealing with 5,000 of your closest friends. Also, Dornann's is a good place for a decent pizza - located just north of the airport. Safe travels! Bill

Dean & Mary - Re Rallies: In a recent conversation with Aaron Wolters at Oliver he told me that he is working on and is interested in "regional rallies". If you would be interested in helping organize such a rally in your area, I'd suggest that you get in touch with Aaron. There are and have been a number of these regional rallies - the New England area, the Texas rally and the Florida rally all come to mind. Therefore, any organizer would not have to re-invent the wheel to get it done. Bill